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Author Topic: DIS Pack  (Read 5271 times)

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cipher

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DIS Pack
« on: 09 August 2006, 23:15:14 »

Some of the older members may remember a thread started by Ronnie in a place where we found our roots, about removing the breather box.

He stated that Vx should of put razor blades and barbed wire around it, for there being a chance of someone actually being able to remove it.

Well, after struggling for about 40 mins today, I managed to get two out of four bolts out (Thanks to LB for the tool loan  [smiley=tekst-toppie.gif])

Had to stop as typical british weather, it started to rain. Figured that installing a DIS pack in the rain wasnt such a hot idea.

Will keep you posted on how I do this in the morning.

But so far, it goes like this:

- Remove the wipers; There are two plastic caps (or there should be) covering the 13mm retaining bolts, pop these off, and then undo the bolts, they shouldn't be very tight. With the bolts out, then push down gently on the hinge in the wiper arm, and then whilst pushing down, lift the wipers from the shaft

- Remove the scuttle; Pull the scuttle rubber trim, then undo the T25 bolt holding the scuttle to the offside wing. Then undo the (I think there are) seven plastic clips under the lower windsheild rubber. These are Torx head, but they have a slot for a flat screwdriver in. Pull the peice covering the pollen filter first, then the main bit.

- Remove the plug leads from the DIS pack, and pull them up out of the way. I placed mine on top of the cam covers. Out of the way.

- Remove the wiring plug for the DIS pack.

- Depending on the year of your car (or engine) the DIS pack will either be mounted horizontally or vertically. Mine is horizontal.

- Undo the two bolts on the left hand side (viewed from front) of the DIS pack. access is tight, I found that I had to push the HBV out of the way slightly.

Thats as far as I got, so will update a bit more when I done tomorrow.

Hopefully, it will be easier to get the new one on.
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Andy B

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Re: DIS Pack
« Reply #1 on: 10 August 2006, 07:12:50 »

Quote
.......  under the lower windsheild rubber........

Is that the same as a windscreen? Or do you have a hood & a trunk on the car too?  ;)
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cipher

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Re: DIS Pack
« Reply #2 on: 10 August 2006, 08:44:16 »

Yeah, I guess it would be the same.

It comes from watching too many shows like overhaulin and american hot-rod.

HAving worked a web developer for years now, I spell things Color, And Center, and Catalog that way, and still find it weird to spell them the other way, I just instinctivley type them that way.
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cipher

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Re: DIS Pack
« Reply #3 on: 10 August 2006, 12:56:29 »

Well,

The DIS pack is changed, and will complete the How2 later and post in the relevant section.

I dont think that there is any denying that the DIS pack was at fault for the misfire (although havn't tried it yet), take a look at the state of the old one....



Most people say that the HBV failing kills the DIS pack, well, in my case, I beleive that it was the rocker gaskets that did it. The Pack was soaked (and I mean soaked) in oil.
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Admin

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Re: DIS Pack
« Reply #4 on: 10 August 2006, 13:09:55 »

Yep.... that's  :-X ed!  ;D

I take it you have started the car and it ticks over ok?
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Marks DTM Calib

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Re: DIS Pack
« Reply #5 on: 10 August 2006, 13:14:16 »

The failure on that is due to the corrosion on the laminations, as a result of the corrosion the laminations have swelled and broke the casing.

Later DIS packs are fully sealed......for good reason.
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cipher

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Re: DIS Pack
« Reply #6 on: 10 August 2006, 13:18:07 »

Started her up idles ok (Thanks to mark is now under ecu control) and sounds much better to.
Still got to test drive it in a bit.
Can you change the plug so that a later type dis pack can fit an earlier car. Just out of curiosity.
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Marks DTM Calib

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Re: DIS Pack
« Reply #7 on: 10 August 2006, 13:24:42 »

Probably could.....
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nixoro

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Re: DIS Pack
« Reply #8 on: 10 August 2006, 13:44:29 »

Cipher what year car was that on, although mine idles ok it maybe worth checking it.

Do they all go like that the same and where would the broken pieces go maybe a silly question but I haven't looked at mine properly. :-[
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cipher

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Re: DIS Pack
« Reply #9 on: 10 August 2006, 14:11:15 »

The only way to look at them properly is to remove them.

Mine is a 96.

They tend to fail if they get wet (HBV Failure) or in my case, as it was soaked in oil from very perished rocker gaskets. I had oil dripping off the exhaust, it was burning it off, there was so much leaking it was dripping from the headsheilds.

Removal isnt difficult, just awkward. You have to put you hind into some very un-natural positions
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Kev

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Re: DIS Pack
« Reply #10 on: 10 August 2006, 14:13:23 »

Pretty much.

Here's how my mate Jims looked. Damged at the bottom corner.  :(

His symptoms were lack of acceleration. It didn't really sound like it was missing, but there you go.

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nixoro

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Re: DIS Pack
« Reply #11 on: 10 August 2006, 14:18:22 »

Quote
The only way to look at them properly is to remove them.

Mine is a 96.

They tend to fail if they get wet (HBV Failure) or in my case, as it was soaked in oil from very perished rocker gaskets. I had oil dripping off the exhaust, it was burning it off, there was so much leaking it was dripping from the headsheilds.

Removal isnt difficult, just awkward. You have to put you hind into some very un-natural positions

Might have to take a look for curiosity purposes.

I might discover mine is in need of replacement only having looked through the history of mine i haven't seen any bills for Dis Pack replacement.
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cipher

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Re: DIS Pack
« Reply #12 on: 10 August 2006, 14:32:38 »

They usually go about 130K ish, but they can last longer.

like a lot of other manuf. they are wasted spark, less efficient that coil per plug (as per later Y series engines) but they are cheaper.
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cipher

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Re: DIS Pack
« Reply #13 on: 10 August 2006, 14:34:27 »

They normally crack, which is a sign that they are going/gone.

But the windings can fail.

It is a lot of work to remove it just "Out of Curiosity"
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nixoro

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Re: DIS Pack
« Reply #14 on: 10 August 2006, 14:36:28 »

Quote
They usually go about 130K ish, but they can last longer.

like a lot of other manuf. they are wasted spark, less efficient that coil per plug (as per later Y series engines) but they are cheaper.

hmmm got me thinking now only mines just turned 136k, shall have a look at the weekend, can you actually tell by feeling the base obviously with the battery disconnected or is the base not accessible.

If removal is the best option I shall have a look.
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