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[olm]

Hi!
I've been with noise for a long time around 1500rpm when cold, at first it looked like tappets but the noise seems to come from the engine and in the last oil change some metal came out of the filter.
I run with a x30xe swap on a 2.6 model with LPG. My question is, may be due to run with ECU not meant for the high RC to X30XE and the LPG conversion? I don't know if repair it, or maybe it's too many inventions and go to a 3.2 with his ECU. Opinions?

[Doctor Gollum]

2.6 ecu will run a 3.2 with no issues and vice versa.

Could be that your 3.0 has bigger issues if your finding metal in the oil... So may well be a good idea to start looking for a decent 3.2 to swap in once the 3.0 fails... 

[olm]

2.6 ecu will run a 3.2 with no issues and vice versa.

Could be that your 3.0 has bigger issues if your finding metal in the oil... So may well be a good idea to start looking for a decent 3.2 to swap in once the 3.0 fails... 

The fuel trims won't be different? Important since they are used by the LPG control unit to adjust the mixture. The 3.0 can run with the 2.6 in theory...   
Or my problem does it come from a lubrication failure?

[LC0112G]

You might want to drop off the lower oil sump pan and take a look at the oil strainer pickup. If it get fully blocked....

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=122287.msg1558753#msg1558753

Symptoms are metal fragments in the oil, and bottom end/big end bearing dis-integration leading to a knocking sound.

[Doctor Gollum]

2.6 ecu will run a 3.2 with no issues and vice versa.

Could be that your 3.0 has bigger issues if your finding metal in the oil... So may well be a good idea to start looking for a decent 3.2 to swap in once the 3.0 fails... 

The fuel trims won't be different? Important since they are used by the LPG control unit to adjust the mixture. The 3.0 can run with the 2.6 in theory...   
Or my problem does it come from a lubrication failure?

The lpg ecu is programmed independently of the engine one, they typically mimic the petrol injectors as a guide but the lpg injector times are set by the lpg ecu, so no, that's not your problem.

Metal in the oil can only mean a mechanical issue. Either the result of a blocked pick up strainer, failing oil pump, or being run with low oil.

[olm]

You might want to drop off the lower oil sump pan and take a look at the oil strainer pickup. If it get fully blocked....

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=122287.msg1558753#msg1558753

Symptoms are metal fragments in the oil, and bottom end/big end bearing dis-integration leading to a knocking sound.

I will check it  Does the noise make you only cold or always?

[olm]

2.6 ecu will run a 3.2 with no issues and vice versa.

Could be that your 3.0 has bigger issues if your finding metal in the oil... So may well be a good idea to start looking for a decent 3.2 to swap in once the 3.0 fails... 

The fuel trims won't be different? Important since they are used by the LPG control unit to adjust the mixture. The 3.0 can run with the 2.6 in theory...   
Or my problem does it come from a lubrication failure?

The lpg ecu is programmed independently of the engine one, they typically mimic the petrol injectors as a guide but the lpg injector times are set by the lpg ecu, so no, that's not your problem.

Metal in the oil can only mean a mechanical issue. Either the result of a blocked pick up strainer, failing oil pump, or being run with low oil.

Yes, but although the engine works, the ECu of 2.6 does not control the engine as well as that of 3.0, and if the LPG takes its data from there .. I always walk with very high LTFT corrections, that's why I mention it too  .  I would prefer it to be for lubrication so as not to have to change the engine...

[Doctor Gollum]

You're missing my point, that engine is already on its way out if you are getting metal in the oil. At that point the cause is irrelevant. That engine will need replacing or rebuilding.

If you have fitted a bare 3.0 engine with the 2.6 ecu/wiring and sensors, then it should run fine. If you're having issues with the LPG side that's a different problem so start with the lpg.

But first replace your engone with one that doesn't have metal in the oil.

[Doctor Gollum]

What lpg system do you have fitted and with what components?

[olm]

What lpg system do you have fitted and with what components?

Europe Gas, new with less 2 years

[Doctor Gollum]

Was it set up on the 2.6 engine?

[olm]

Was it set up on the 2.6 engine?

No, allways over 3.0, It has already been recalibrated several times and although the car runs good, the LTFT they are high for my taste. I'm worried about the RC difference, but if you think it has nothing to do with it, we will look at the lubrication

[olm]

What are the pressure values ​​to check the oil pump?

[Doctor Gollum]

If you have metal in the oil, you are past that point.

[olm]

If you have metal in the oil, you are past that point.

Why?

[Doctor Gollum]

Something inside the engine is breaking apart, probably the crank/bearings if it's knocking already.

Without stripping it completely you won't know which bit, at which point you either completely rebuild it or replace it.

There's no positive reasons to find metal in the oil.

[Doctor Gollum]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-OMEGA-2-6-V6-PETROL-Y26SE-COMPLETE-ENGINE-WARRANTY-/114313934618

[LC0112G]

You might want to drop off the lower oil sump pan and take a look at the oil strainer pickup. If it get fully blocked....

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=122287.msg1558753#msg1558753

Symptoms are metal fragments in the oil, and bottom end/big end bearing dis-integration leading to a knocking sound.

I will check it  Does the noise make you only cold or always?

Depends how far gone it is, but likely to be worse on a warm engine than a cold one because the oil gets thinner as it warms up. Will also be worse at higher revs than at lower revs.

However, I agree with Doctor Gollum. Metal particles in the oil means something is breaking up, and whatever it is won't get better on it's own.  Dropping the sump will probably reveal all sorts of rubbish in the sump pan. As a minimum the engine needs stripping down to find out what is breaking up. If you can't or don't want to do that, then just get a new engine and put it in.

If it is the big end bearings disintegrating (which is my bet) then this engine won't last very long if you continue to drive it.

[olm]

Something inside the engine is breaking apart, probably the crank/bearings if it's knocking already.

Without stripping it completely you won't know which bit, at which point you either completely rebuild it or replace it.

There's no positive reasons to find metal in the oil.

Crank bearing is not, I know what it is and it would have broken very very long time ago. My problem is slap piston, but I wanted to know if the swap + lpg or lubrication failure could have caused it, that is why I would like to know the values ​​to measure the oil pump

[olm]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-OMEGA-2-6-V6-PETROL-Y26SE-COMPLETE-ENGINE-WARRANTY-/114313934618

Thanks, but I have a 2.6 with 55k milles, only, for me, isn't engine for omega 

[Doctor Gollum]

The next best available is the 3.2 from a Vectra C but it's jusy shy of £600.

[olm]

The next best available is the 3.2 from a Vectra C but it's jusy shy of £600.

It would be interesting if it weren't for the shipping costs to Spain 

[deviator]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-OMEGA-2-6-V6-PETROL-Y26SE-COMPLETE-ENGINE-WARRANTY-/114313934618

Thanks, but I have a 2.6 with 55k milles, only, for me, isn't engine for omega 

If it came from a Vectra, then you can use this engine. You just need to swap pretty much everything. Sump, pickup pipe, brackets, sensors, plenums, injectors etc; You might want to retain the cam covers from the Vectra is they are metal.

[Doctor Gollum]

The next best available is the 3.2 from a Vectra C but it's jusy shy of £600.

It would be interesting if it weren't for the shipping costs to Spain 

Nonsense. You can come and get it if it comes to it

Use the channel tunnel andvyou won't even need to get out of the car

Although if you have a good low mileage 2.6 (from that car) you may as well stuff it back in, even if it is just a stop gap.

Keep that 3.0 in it, and you won't be using it much longer

[Doctor Gollum]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-OMEGA-2-6-V6-PETROL-Y26SE-COMPLETE-ENGINE-WARRANTY-/114313934618

Thanks, but I have a 2.6 with 55k milles, only, for me, isn't engine for omega 

If it came from a Vectra, then you can use this engine. You just need to swap pretty much everything. Sump, pickup pipe, brackets, sensors, plenums, injectors etc; You might want to retain the cam covers from the Vectra is they are metal.

The Vectra lump was the only 3.2 lump on ebay, so would obviously need the Omega gubbins swapping over. 

The 2.6 engine mentioned is the original one to the car aiui, and was removed in the quest for more go... Hence the knocking 3.0 issue.

[Doctor Gollum]

Actually, remove the cams from the 3.0 and, if they are good, ie not scored up or otherwise damaged, fit them to the 2.6. It will pep it up a bit. 

[Nick W]

The next best available is the 3.2 from a Vectra C but it's jusy shy of £600.

It would be interesting if it weren't for the shipping costs to Spain 

You could buy a running 3.0l still in a car and drive it home for less....

[STEMO]

The next best available is the 3.2 from a Vectra C but it's jusy shy of £600.

It would be interesting if it weren't for the shipping costs to Spain 

You could buy a running 3.0l still in a car and drive it home for less....

Yes 

[olm]

Actually, remove the cams from the 3.0 and, if they are good, ie not scored up or otherwise damaged, fit them to the 2.6. It will pep it up a bit. 

Return to 2.6 don't contemplate. If I take out the engine it will be for something bigger.

[olm]

The next best available is the 3.2 from a Vectra C but it's jusy shy of £600.

It would be interesting if it weren't for the shipping costs to Spain 

You could buy a running 3.0l still in a car and drive it home for less....

Sad but true

[Doctor Gollum]

Actually, remove the cams from the 3.0 and, if they are good, ie not scored up or otherwise damaged, fit them to the 2.6. It will pep it up a bit. 

Return to 2.6 don't contemplate. If I take out the engine it will be for something bigger.

Well, you could fit an LS but you can kiss goodbye to about £12-15k.

If it's your daily driver, a working 2.6 is better than a dead or unavailable larger lump. Thems about your options...

[olm]

Actually, remove the cams from the 3.0 and, if they are good, ie not scored up or otherwise damaged, fit them to the 2.6. It will pep it up a bit. 

Return to 2.6 don't contemplate. If I take out the engine it will be for something bigger.

Well, you could fit an LS but you can kiss goodbye to about £12-15k.

If it's your daily driver, a working 2.6 is better than a dead or unavailable larger lump. Thems about your options...

If I don't have a LS  it's because the laws don't allow it 
 The engine will hold, it takes a few thousand miles and what's left

[Doctor Gollum]

Not if it's knocking it won't... 

[dave the builder]

Not if it's knocking it won't... 

the Omega radiogram goes up quite loud 
well mine does ,often 

[cam.in.head]

if it is only piston slap then it could last for years but piston slap / wear doesnt normally manifest itself as metal filings in the sump ?

[olm]

if it is only piston slap then it could last for years but piston slap / wear doesnt normally manifest itself as metal filings in the sump ?

They are tiny particles, it is logical after a grab, but yes, it can work like that for a long, long time, in fact the noise disappears soon and already works smooth and quiet

[olm]

Not if it's knocking it won't... 

It been calling a long time, if it were crank bearing it would have broken up long ago

[Doctor Gollum]

Presumably this is the same really well kept engine that never had a cambelt change since leaving the factory?

[olm]

Presumably this is the same really well kept engine that never had a cambelt change since leaving the factory?

You are supposing wrong

[Doctor Gollum]

Presumably this is the same really well kept engine that never had a cambelt change since leaving the factory?

You are supposing wrong

I was being slightly sarcastic.

Is the engine that you went to change the belt on only to find that it was almost destroyed? Presumably you bought the locking tools before you fitted the new belt?

[olm]

Presumably this is the same really well kept engine that never had a cambelt change since leaving the factory?

You are supposing wrong

I was being slightly sarcastic.

Is the engine that you went to change the belt on only to find that it was almost destroyed? Presumably you bought the locking tools before you fitted the new belt?

No, it squeaked and looking at the belt it was almost destroyed. Then I put on a new belt and the noise persisted, it turned out to be the covers, I put those of 2.6 and it was solved. I don't know why, but that's how it was