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Author Topic: Brakes - ECP  (Read 1147 times)

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cam.in.head

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Re: Brakes - ECP
« Reply #15 on: 16 April 2021, 22:57:29 »

yes defeinately handbrake first before engaging park. my mate used to do it the other way round and made me cringe on a steep hill when he forced it out of park later !
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johnnydog

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Re: Brakes - ECP
« Reply #16 on: 17 April 2021, 08:59:27 »

If in normal day to day use, my cars are parked with the handbrake on. If being left for any period say for over a week, then I don't apply the handbrake, as long as they are in gear or park, with the wheels chocked. We all know the metal content in the brake shoes results in them sticking on, especially in damp enviroments. This applies to any car.
Common sense and the practicalities of this should prevail though - if parked on a public highway, then I would apply it at all times. But at home, if it can be safely chocked and in gear or park, then I would never consider leaving it for any length of time with the handbrake firmly applied.
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Nick W

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Re: Brakes - ECP
« Reply #17 on: 17 April 2021, 11:27:21 »


If in normal day to day use, my cars are parked with the handbrake on. If being left for any period say for over a week, then I don't apply the handbrake, as long as they are in gear or park, with the wheels chocked. We all know the metal content in the brake shoes results in them sticking on, especially in damp environments. This applies to any car.



A week? :o  That has often been normal use for me.


If I was planning to not use a car for many months, then I'd consider chocking it. Careful persuasion with a large hammer has never failed to release seized brake drums for me; sometimes on cars that had been standing for years. If you're that paranoid about failures, presumably you leave it on axle stands, remove and cover the wheels to protect the tyres and drain all the fluids? Obviously the battery is disconnected too.


I have experienced stuck clutches, which are freed off by warming the engine then restarting the car in gear with the clutch held down. This can take several goes if the clutch is really stuck. Do NOT try this with a hydraulic clutch as you'll blow at least some of the seals. Although if it's been standing for some time a new slave is usually necessary, which is easy with external ones(we've bought a couple of cars really cheap because of this) and a complete PITA if it's a concentric cylinder.
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johnnydog

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Re: Brakes - ECP
« Reply #18 on: 30 April 2021, 13:11:16 »


If in normal day to day use, my cars are parked with the handbrake on. If being left for any period say for over a week, then I don't apply the handbrake, as long as they are in gear or park, with the wheels chocked. We all know the metal content in the brake shoes results in them sticking on, especially in damp environments. This applies to any car.



A week? :o  That has often been normal use for me.

If I was planning to not use a car for many months, then I'd consider chocking it. Careful persuasion with a large hammer has never failed to release seized brake drums for me; sometimes on cars that had been standing for years. If you're that paranoid about failures, presumably you leave it on axle stands, remove and cover the wheels to protect the tyres and drain all the fluids? Obviously the battery is disconnected too.

I have experienced stuck clutches, which are freed off by warming the engine then restarting the car in gear with the clutch held down. This can take several goes if the clutch is really stuck. Do NOT try this with a hydraulic clutch as you'll blow at least some of the seals. Although if it's been standing for some time a new slave is usually necessary, which is easy with external ones(we've bought a couple of cars really cheap because of this) and a complete PITA if it's a concentric cylinder.

I did say OVER a week...which could be months in some cases. Hardly paranoid about failures, but prevention is better than cure in many cases, but your comments about draining all the fluids, removing all the wheels and placing on axle stands maybe a good idea if a vehicle was being laid up for years, but hardly a week or so ::) Leaving the handbrake off and placing a couple of chocks or bricks by two wheels is far easier and kinder to the vehicle than the faff of jacking up the rear, and using a lump hammer on the drums to free off handbrake shoes that have stuck to the drum. Not quite the same procedure with rear discs / calipers though.
I think you have actually stated previously about the perils of an electric handbrake sticking on or not releasing. One of my modern vehicle with an electric handbrake was laid up during the first lockdown, and I would never dream of leaving it for months with the handbrake applied. One of my local Audi dealers never leave the handbrake applied on sale vehicles on their forecourt (maybe they think they will not sell quickly! ;D), presumably to negate the possibility of sticking handbrakes.

As regards to sticking clutches - I find the best way to free them off is to let the vehicle tick over for a good while until it gets nice and hot (normal temp - not overheating!!), switch off, wedge a piece of wood between the clutch pedal and seat, and leave it over night. In the morning, the clutch is nice and free and 'Bob's yer Uncle'. Usually been a classic that has been laid up over the winter months when the damp atmosphere doesn't help. Last one was a car that had been laid up for 25 years which required a full recommissioning after such a period of inactivity, but it is still on the same clutch today which is smooth with no judder.  This procedure has never failed to free the clutch on me yet.
And this car had the same oil, hydraulic fluid and coolant from when it was turned off 25 years previously, and after a thorough recommissioning, the engine is sweet as a nut to this day. The old fuel (which was good old leaded!) was like glue though.... ;D

 
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Andy B

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Re: Brakes - ECP
« Reply #19 on: 30 April 2021, 19:29:18 »

the only handbrake I've ever had stick in 40 yrs of driving, was the handbrake on my daily driver Smart. Even the handbrake on my caravan that had been left on for months released the other day when it was moved for new tyres (I appreciate a caravan's drum brakes are different from a car's)
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tigers_gonads

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Re: Brakes - ECP
« Reply #20 on: 30 April 2021, 21:46:53 »

Stuck Eicher on all 4 corners of my car a couple of ago.
Ripped them off after a month because they was shite with a capital S
Avoid
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Re: Brakes - ECP
« Reply #21 on: 19 May 2021, 15:06:35 »

Put all these parts in the basket a few days and the discounts kept changeing.

Started at 275 dropped to 227 and todays price140.67 all in delivered free.  Think there has been a price change on some parts as well. :y

I know Pagid aint the best but the brakes wear out faster due to the car being stood weeks on end and not drifting/ralling through Derbyshire ::)


Pagid Wear Sensor (Front)2    Product Code: 106720128 5.78

Pagid Brake Disc (Rear)2      Product Code: 104720258 34.98

Pagid Brake Disc (Front)2     Product Code: 104720078 33.98

Pagid Brake Pad (Front)       Product Code: 101720078 50.99

Pagid Brake Pad (Rear)      Product Code: 101880108   30.99

Pagid Brake Pad Fitting (Front)   Product Code: 107770058   10.49

Pagid Brake Pad Fitting (Rear)   Product Code: 107721088   18.99

Crosland Fuel Filter      Product Code: 503900238   11.49

Fram Air Filter         Product Code: 502720166   5.99

Crosland Cabin Filter      Product Code: 507720038   27.99

Crosland Oil Filter      Product Code: 501720158   5.19

Subtotal:
236.86
Discount (Mid Month Sale - Up to 45% Off Car Parts):
- 96.19
Total (inc VAT):
140.67
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Doctor Gollum

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Re: Brakes - ECP
« Reply #22 on: 19 May 2021, 16:17:58 »

Facelift requires the charcoal cabin filter ;)

As does prefacelift with ECC.
« Last Edit: 19 May 2021, 16:25:06 by Doctor Gollum »
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VXL V6

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Re: Brakes - ECP
« Reply #23 on: 19 May 2021, 16:42:42 »

Only one wear sensor on NSF for Facelift (not sure about pre-facelifts)
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Mr Skrunts

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Re: Brakes - ECP
« Reply #24 on: 19 May 2021, 16:47:40 »

Only one wear sensor on NSF for Facelift (not sure about pre-facelifts)

Learn something new every day. :y
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Mr Skrunts

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Re: Brakes - ECP
« Reply #25 on: 19 May 2021, 16:48:57 »

Facelift requires the charcoal cabin filter ;)

As does prefacelift with ECC.


Crosland Cabin Filter
Product Code: 507720038
Crosland Cabin Filter :y

27.99

Filter TypeActivated Carbon

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Re: Brakes - ECP
« Reply #26 on: 19 May 2021, 17:32:46 »

Facelift requires the charcoal cabin filter ;)

As does prefacelift with ECC.


Crosland Cabin Filter
Product Code: 507720038
Crosland Cabin Filter :y

27.99

Filter TypeActivated Carbon
:y

People tend to buy on price without appreciating the difference...
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TheBoy

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Re: Brakes - ECP
« Reply #27 on: 19 May 2021, 18:07:02 »

Facelift requires the charcoal cabin filter ;)

As does prefacelift with ECC.
Incorrect
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Re: Brakes - ECP
« Reply #28 on: 19 May 2021, 18:07:25 »

Only one wear sensor on NSF for Facelift (not sure about pre-facelifts)
2 for the superior preface lifts.
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VXL V6

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Re: Brakes - ECP
« Reply #29 on: 19 May 2021, 18:42:34 »

Only one wear sensor on NSF for Facelift (not sure about pre-facelifts)
2 for the superior preface lifts.
None on the daily car....  ::)

...that'll be because I put those awful trade club pads on it for it's last few thousand miles before it goes to Bean Tin heaven and thought i'm not wasting a sensor on this  ;D
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