Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: lozzzzzz on 16 October 2011, 18:21:42
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I'm not sure if I've got the right area in the forum for this build thread but I'll put it here :)
I've had a hellish 6 weeks at work, but in one weeks time, I'll be working on the car full time for a week so if folk are interested I'll post all the progress made on here.
The following is a bit I did this weekend, there should be loads more as of next week. :)
This weekend I finished my work miday saturday and had time to work on the car a bit :) :) Its been 6 weeks since I've spent more than about half an hour on it. It literally felt like a relief.
I welded the pulley on, but its not on straight, so I'll have to redo that, hopefully no biggy.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1030627.jpg)
I've ordered all the SS pipe and silencers in so when I get a week off (in a weeks time) I'll hopefully be able to put the whole exhasut system together (there should be loads more progress then).
These two pipes sat in the car at the mo will for the ends of the tubular manifolds.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1030629.jpg)
They're 2.5" and this gives an idea how they might look on the back of the car
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1030630.jpg)
The bends on the second maniold are nearly done now, I'm really looking forward to having the manifolds finished, I wasn't really looking forward to doing the second one, its sucha pain in the arse.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1030626.jpg)
More to come next week.
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Keep it coming :y :y :y
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Indeed, keep this thread up to date with your progress :y
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Thanks guys, will do.
Heres a little update
I got these in the post today, I'm so Excited :) :),
I've set myself the not too unresonable target of having the whole exhaust system finished with the Wideband sensor, by the end of week off (which starts soon).
The front oval silencers are Jetex, the rear round ones are Mijex, and all the pipework and silencersa re 2.5" straight through, and you guess it, T304 Stainless Steel. :)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1030631.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1030632.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1030633.jpg)
More to come soon (ish)
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Looking good,as already said keep it coming. :y
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Looks great mate, can't wait to see the next instalment :y
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looks awsome mate. keep the posts coming. :y
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had a 1977 scimitar in black a few years ago absolutly stunning
from a 60's design
with modern running gear will be excellent
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Thanks guys :)
I'll be putting lots of posts on soon hopefully. I can't wait to see how it goes and how much power it makes.
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I had to drop a scimiter of in luxembourg 2 weeks ago from 1970s deliverd it to a car collector he only wanted the gearbox from it!
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I had to drop a scimiter of in luxembourg 2 weeks ago from 1970s deliverd it to a car collector he only wanted the gearbox from it!
:o :o :o Sacrilidge (sp?) There must be loads of Ford gearboxes knocking about he could've usew instead. ???
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the car was only fit for spares
(http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c85/lozzycorsa/9ef3f0ca.jpg)
(http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c85/lozzycorsa/550ff21f.jpg)
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Right finally some progress, far from the week of car work I was looking forward to its been two days and that'll be it for a bit again :( things just come up don't they!
But its been productive. I feel like I've finally broken the back the exhaust manifolds, this second manifold has been looming for ages, and its fair to say It's not been the most enjoyable of things to make, and I knew exactly how hard it would be as its the second of two. Having said that I'm well happy to have been working on the car again and although I'm not going to get the exhausts finished like I'd hoped, the rest isn't that hard a job so it won't be long.
So the pipes for the second manifold are all cut and shut to shape
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1030658.jpg)
You can see here before welding that the shape of the pipes isn't that bad (it just looks bad when they're welded :) )
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1030659.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1030660.jpg)
This took a very long time each of the 27 cuts took time and thought then lots of angle grinding, then some more angle grinding to make sure it shut neatly then tacking shut
Then they were all welded up
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1030661.jpg)
And finally ground down in the high places and wire wheeled for good measure and now they're tacked in place ready to be welded to the header plate.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1030662.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1030663.jpg)
Hopefully next time I get some time I'll get these pipes welded up the header plate and start making the collector.
Got a few more parts in the post, wheel boxes for the wipers and a cruise control system to add to the mix :)
More to come
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YEAH!!! :) :) :) Got over a day to work on the car this weekend.
So I tried to get the exhausts finished, didn't quite get them done, but not far off.
Firstly got the exhausts in the right place (shortening them and angling the back silencers up will be one of the last jobs)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1030664.jpg)
This meant I could see how well the pipes lined up with the manifolds and what shape the collectors need to be.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1030665.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1030667.jpg)
The rest of the exhaust system is all slide joint.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1030666.jpg)
Now making the collector, after it lined up beautifully with the exhaust pipe.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1030671.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1030672.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1030668.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1030669.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1030670.jpg)
Then welding and shaping the final piece of the puzzle (I'd forgotten how to use the flash)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1030676.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1030677.jpg)
And the finished, fully de-burred item.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1030678.jpg)
And on the car
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1030679.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1030680.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1030681.jpg)
Now just got to make the other, but this one won't take long.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1030682.jpg)
More to come, as soon as I can (might not be for a while).
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Finished the Exhaust Manifolds this afternoon :) :) :)
The rest of the system is loosly slid on and it sounds great one Very happy customer. Here's some piccies on the pair.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1020417.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1020418.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1020419.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1020420.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1020422.jpg)
All the ports inside the manifold are now smoothed out with no rough bits to help things out further.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1020422.jpg)
I took a video of the sound, but the b***dy thing is taking forever to upload, left it overnight and the battery ran out before it uploaded :(
I'll try again later
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That looks like a great piece of work :y
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Thanks the Boy
Finally the video has worked, the picture is a bit dark, but the sound is quite resonable really, it sounds pretty close, just the volume that you can't really get an idea about (its pretty loud though, perhaps a little louder than I'd hoped).
Still, I'm really pleased, it sounds lovely, way nicer than open cylinder heads :) This is the first time I've been able to rev it right up, I can't believe how quickly it gets up to the limiter, that flywheel is ace!
Video here:
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/th_P1020423.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/?action=view¤t=P1020423.mp4)
More to come
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(click the image of the engine)
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You could've washed it mate ;D
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Nice Job, well done. :y :y :y
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Yeah it does need a "quick dust off"
Thanks guys
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Looks and sounds fantastic mate, wish I had a fraction of your patience and knowledge
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Hi Lozz ::)
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Hello!? Do I know you from antoher forum ? :)
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The exhausts are all done. The angle gridner gave up on me today, so that took a chunk out of the day. Its lasted 5 and its really done well, so I went and bought exactly the same one again (well the new version).
So here are the pipes now conplete with bends in them
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040164.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040165.jpg)
Here is how they look on the car
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040166.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040167.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040168.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040169.jpg)
And the whole system layed out. Actually its not quite finished, I still need to just weld the Lambda bosses in, but I'm still waiting for suitable SS versions to turn up.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040170.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040171.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040172.jpg)
More to come tomorrow, not sure what yet, but something.
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Extremely impressive piece of work that - respect. :y
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Thanks Albs :)
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GOOD GRIEF,
Years ago my scimitar se5 manual overdrive, engine was ok but didnt set the world alight,
had a mate who worked at Osselli,s in oxford, who would get the engine sorted at mates rates if i didnt mind waiting, no problem, holding down 3 jobs at the time, meant i was fairly flush,
while they had the engine i did all the suspension with spax and uprated bushes new trunnions etc,
engine pulled taken to them, told them to builld the strongest essex they could within reason,
so rebore new pistons, crank ground and nitrided, blueprinted, lightened and balanced, high flow oil pump,hot cam, steel timing gear, heads ported and flowed and biggest valves you could get in an essex head, topped off with a holley 390 rejetted to suit the engine,
even back then it cost me 3.5k :obut i thought it was the bee,s knees there wasnt a lot cold stay with it on any kind of road , I honestly thought it was the most powerful car you would ever build!
it made 213bhp on the rolling road, fuel consumption was around 12 to 15mpg and it would do just under 20 if was very gentle with it!!
after around 5k the big valves cracked across the seats so the heads had to be repaired, ( not enough meat between the valves owing to the size of them) this turned out to be a fairly regular occurence(twice in two years) and eventually i sold it to another enthusiat!
The point of the story is Lozz you have just built a cheaper more economical, probably faster scimitar!!
nice one mate!!
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That sounds like a wicked Scimitar!
But I'm hoping for three times that MPG figure with a cost equivilent running it on LPG.
Thanks for your comments :)
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Done some more today, spent a long time tidying up all the welding mess from the exhausts. Its nice to be back onto a list of smaller jobs that needn't take 3 week. After tidying I thought long and hard about how to get the wipers how I wnat them.
The problem is they're slow and the wiper motor is ugly in the engine bay. The two birds one stone answer is to move it into the cab. I bought some more wiper wheel boxes a while ago so these are now fitted, but I've binned the long outer that goes into the engine bay and fitted a smaller section from what was the rear wiper mechanism (now redundent). The idea is that without the bend the wiper motor will not have to overcome the friction in the bend, and will be closer. Ontop of this its all tighter, regreased and the motor has been stripped and cleaned too. It all works a treat.
Here's the new shorter mechanism.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040173.jpg)
Looking up at the motor in its new home.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040176.jpg)
The old hole is now filled, but still needs painting.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040177.jpg)
And the results. In the past if I accidently hit the wipers on a dry day, I'd have to get out and help them accross the windscreen. But now, with dry windscreen and on a pretty flat battery (engine not running too) they're happy to go for it at a resonable pace :)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040175.jpg)
More to come, soon hopefully.
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All painted up now, and the large fuse holder that powers everything accpet the starter motor is now mounted where the old wiper motor would have been.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040178.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040179.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040180.jpg)
Just the washer bottle to go back in now.
More to come
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Superb project.If I had a garage etc. I would love to do something like that. :y
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Thanks Albs :)
Its a car day today :)
All work is done till tomorrow, so I've spent this morning doing lots of research and deciding exactly what brake set up I need for the car. I remember that the upgrade set up I had before was a little weak on the rear. So the fronts would lock up a long before the rears. Now this means that the full baking potential wasn't reached, although they were amazing at not fading. If the rears could have done more work then fronts would have had more grip available so could apply a great slowing force before locking up. Brake ballance is really important so I've done a kind of case study of a selection of cars comparing their weight distribution with their brake power distribution.
Some of the cars on the list are ones I've owned and driven them, and some were picked because they are known to be awesome driving machines, oh and my bro's capri is on there too to check the new set up he's making.
There are a lot of columns for breaking down the calculations, but the first and last two columns are the important ones. You can see that the old Scim set up has a very front strong system at 65:35, and this is why the brakes might not have performed well when really applying the load.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/PowerCalcs.jpg)
The new system will use the Cosworth RS 4x4 273mm rear discs with their original calipers, the front will use the Focus ST 170 300mm discs and Omega Calipers. This combination comes out at a 59:41 front rear bias, which is really close the that of the E36 M3. The other obvious importnat facter is the weight distribution of the car, with the lighter engine up front and the added weight of the LPG tank, battery, Fuel pumps, heavy diff (very heavy), and larger brakes, I would imagine the car is approaching 50:50 weight distribution as with the M3, I'll be checking this asap.
If anyone is interested in doing something like this for an ugrade the info on piston size and everything else was from this website:
http://www.brakepartssuperstore.org.uk/contents/en-uk/d2.html
So the necessary parts will be in their way soon :) :)
Now to the garage to do some real work.
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Great job, Lozz, looking forward to the test drive report. :y :y :y
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Thanks Shackeng, but its some way off yet :(
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Wow, might have made a school boy error with the calcs, its a function of piston area not diamter. So the new calcs look like this (pretty different in fact)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/PowerCalcs2.jpg)
The new set up puts quite far from that of the M3 now, but there is a bias valve in the line to the rear so the rear brakes can be turned down a bit. Or if I was to buy the 324 mm front discs fromt eh Focus RS, then it would be back to being the same as the M3. I think i'll stick with the 300mm and turn the valve in a bit.
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Nice calculations, lozz :) For the terminally lazy among us .. care to make the spreadsheet available somewhere? ;)
I'm interested in comparing the MR2, 300ZX and future setup on the kit car.. and your spreadsheet will already have the formulas, presumably, for me to whack the figures in to :)
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Soooo much space around that engine bay!
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Yeah its good that there's still room left, there's still a bit to go in there.
I'd be happy to make it available, what is the easiest way of doing that on here??
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DropBox would work to share it, if you have it.. otherwise I can PM you my email address and stick it on mine :)
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Don't forget that, under maximum braking, some weight will transfer to the front axle so you might want to err on the side of caution and bias it a little towards the front compared to what the static weight distribution suggests, if you don't have a proportioning valve in the rear circuit. :y
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Right finally figured out dropbox :)
I've out a load of instructions in the file and the link tot he website I used for getting the info, the columns that do the calcs are mostly hidden to make it easier to see where you need to put the info in.. Here's the dropbox link:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/2488666/Brake%20Comparison.xlsx
Kevin, the spreadsheet takes that into account, the idea of the sheet is to compare the weight distribution of different cars with their brake power distribution front and rear. You can see that for a car with weight distribution of 50:50, the brake distribution is about 67:33, to account for the wieght transfer that you mention under heavy braking.
Hope it helps
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OOOoooo.. just thought, Centre of gravity makes a difference too. A car with a very very low CofG with not be able to transfer so much weight to the front wheels under heavy braking. A car with a very high CofG with transfer l a large portion of its wieght to the front wheels under heavy braking. So when looking to something to compare with the car you're making brakes for pick something of a similar height.
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TBH, if starting from a relatively "clean sheet", as you are, and determined to get the brake balance spot on, I might be inclined to fit a twin master cylinder setup and bias adjustment. As you say, there are lots of factors (suspension compliance is another variable is how much weight transfers forwards). Rather than hope to hit the jackpot first time, why not give yourself some adjustment?
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It would be the ultimate set up, but there are a couple of reasons I want to avoid it really.
Firstly I spent a while getting hold of a brand new servo and master cylinder.
Secondly, having driven a friends car with the set up you mention (and of course no servo), I don't really like the pedal feel. You have to apply a massive amount of pedal force for resonable braking, its almost to the point where you can't lock the wheels on a dry road. His car is 1500kg, where mine should be less than 1300, but still.
I do have a bias valve that I'll be refitting into the rear circuit, I hear they're not the most accurate things, so I'll get the braking as close as I can by design and use that for adjustments if necessary. Its a shame thats its a compromise, but do you see my point?
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Its a shame thats its a compromise, but do you see my point?
Absolutely. Just batting ideas around in case they'd been overlooked. ;)
The non-servo brakes on my Westfield took some getting used to. They feel spongy compared to a servo setup simply because the master-to-slave cylinder ratio has to give you a bit more mechanical advantage, so there's more pedal travel. Once used to them, you find they will stand the car on its' nose pretty easily. 650kg car, though. :-\
Traditional bias valves are more pressure limiting devices. I guess they allow you to have a reasonably good amount of braking at the rear when braking moderately yet limit it for very hard braking. I think you'll always find some circumstances where the back'll lock before the front unless you go for a ridiculously "safe" bias like most production cars have. Finding the "sweet spot" that works for you is half the fun of it, of course. ;)
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A very interesting thread - well done to Lozz and the contributors. 8)
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TBH, if starting from a relatively "clean sheet", as you are, and determined to get the brake balance spot on, I might be inclined to fit a twin master cylinder setup and bias adjustment.
I was pondering trying to fit that in on the Dax - not a great deal of space, but I wonder if I could sneak a 'proper' pedal box in there rather than the very dangly flimsy looking one they supply..
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TBH, if starting from a relatively "clean sheet", as you are, and determined to get the brake balance spot on, I might be inclined to fit a twin master cylinder setup and bias adjustment.
I was pondering trying to fit that in on the Dax - not a great deal of space, but I wonder if I could sneak a 'proper' pedal box in there rather than the very dangly flimsy looking one they supply..
Be careful at IVA, though. They need to be in the most rearward position and welded up so no longer adjustable, and the fronts still need to lock first. ::)
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TBH, if starting from a relatively "clean sheet", as you are, and determined to get the brake balance spot on, I might be inclined to fit a twin master cylinder setup and bias adjustment.
I was pondering trying to fit that in on the Dax - not a great deal of space, but I wonder if I could sneak a 'proper' pedal box in there rather than the very dangly flimsy looking one they supply..
Be careful at IVA, though. They need to be in the most rearward position and welded up so no longer adjustable, and the fronts still need to lock first. ::)
Apparently they don't need to be welded up anymore (hurrah!) just (to quote the IVA manual):
Note 5: Bias bars and other mechanical adjusting devices fitted to twin master cylinders must be rendered inoperable by mechanical means e.g. lockwiring of components.
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When we SVA'd my mate's Dax Rush they made us drill holes through the nuts and balance bar, and lock wire them which, fortunately, we were equipped to do in the car park of the test centre. Hmm. balance bar with holes drilled through it. :o It made one gingerly drive home before it was replaced with a new, unmolested one.
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There is little 'logic' in quite a bit of the IVA regs..
Though I'm impressed you were prepared with drill and lockwire.. I know everyone takes duct tape/screwdrivers/spanners etc, but that's definitely taking it one step further :)
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There is little 'logic' in quite a bit of the IVA regs..
Though I'm impressed you were prepared with drill and lockwire.. I know everyone takes duct tape/screwdrivers/spanners etc, but that's definitely taking it one step further :)
Oh, we had everything. ;)
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Oh, we had everything. ;)
Must remember to pack a Kevin Wood in the boot when I go for the IVA... ;D
Ahem, and now, back to the topic at hand :-[ Scimitars.. :)
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Hmmm, I didn't realise that's what they were :( This website explains it very well.
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/proportioning-valves
Thats very dissapointing. Whats far far more dissapointing was that I missed an auction today some rediculusly cheap Insiginia 2.8 turbo front calipers. Ali four pots with dust seals, bembo, and big enough to take 330mm discs, not that I'd go that big. They went for £53 :( :( :( :( :( VERY VERY GUTTED :( :( :( :(
They were perfect in terms of balance too, when working with the focus RS 324mm front discs. AAAAGGHHHHHH!!!#
Thanks for your comment Desperate Den :)
The IVA puts shivers down my spine, the Scim would really struggle, I guess thats the main reason I decided not to put IRS on the back, it would be awesome though.
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You'd only need to go through the IVA if you needed to re-register the vehicle, though, surely? So you could stick IRS on it and it wouldn't affect the current reg.. unless there's something about V5s that I don't know (entirely possible!) :)
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There's the points system. The car can be MOT'd if its not too modified. It has to retain 8 points of the original car, and there are different numbers of points awarded for different bits
Chassis 5 points tick
Engine 1 point urm no
Steering,
Axles,
Suspension,
Can't remember all of them but my car is close, so If I go changing the rear end (or more importantly the chassis to suit) then it wouldn't have its 8 points so it would need to be re-registered.
I think!
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Ah, gotcha :)
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Had a day ont he car yesterday :)
I've started making what I feel is the best solution to the problem of the front indicators. I can't seem to find a solution which doesn't look daft. So I'm hollowing out the main beam lamps and putting hte indicators in them.
I started grinding the original sealed beam jobbies, I was very surprised this worked at all, but then the heat got the better of them and the glass cracked.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040186.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040187.jpg)
So I moved onto the capri lights from ebay, these have metal backs so were much easier to work on.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040188.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040189.jpg)
Cut the back out.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040190.jpg)
And glued the mini style indicator lenses in. Its hard to photograph, it doesn't look wuite that orange when using your own eyes, but I'm already thinking I should have gone with clear lenses and orange bulbs, we'll see how they look on the car.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040191.jpg)
I spent a long time trying to trace an intermittent fault with the crank position sensor and got nowhere yet. I think I'm going to reroute the wire away from any other electrics incase its just picking up too much noise.
More to come.
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Had a day away from the car, but this evening I had a sneaky go in the garage and got the Lambda Bosses welded in, all SS, 1m from the back of the valve.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040192.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040193.jpg)
More to come, In fact its early I might go and get the LC-1 Lambda sensor computer thingy intalled.
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Got some quality time in this morning, Didn't move mountains but I'm please with progress.
I used some strips of SS that I picked up from the scrap yard some time ago (they were for SS tank straps, but I got loads just in case).
Bit of drilling, bending, cutting and welding and voila!
Left side
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040194.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040195.jpg)
And the right side
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040196.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040197.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040198.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040199.jpg)
They were mounted on top of the manifold in the omega, but this was too high for the scim. I was going to mount them further outboard on the inner wing area, but they really need to be on the engine so there is little relative movement between them and the engine, so as not to chaf the hoses.
Put the new SS exhaust studs in too. Couldn't be happier with these, they're got an allen key on one end so they're really easy to put in
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040200.jpg)
More to come
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Somewhere in the region of that last picture must be where my oil filler cap now resides (read: is melting on to the manifold).. ;D
Good work, though, now hurry up and get it finished ;)
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What a fascinating thread. Looking forward to more up-dates. :)
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(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040200.jpg)
Nice bit of "batsrad bolt porn" on that last photo. :D
Looks like it's progressing nicely. :y
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Thanks guys :) I'll try to get another 4 days worth of updates in before the end of the holiday.
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I've only owned my Omega for about 8 years so not really au fait under the bonnet ;D ;D ;D & I'll have to confess my ingorance ??? what are they? :-[ :-[
And your exhaust studs are infact long grub screws - hence the hex allen key end ;)
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What are what Andy? Good point about the grub screws :)
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I've only owned my Omega for about 8 years so not really au fait under the bonnet ;D ;D ;D & I'll have to confess my ingorance ??? what are they? :-[ :-[
And your exhaust studs are infact long grub screws - hence the hex allen key end ;)
Never been too sure about this myself but I think it might be an engine. ;D
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What are what Andy? Good point about the grub screws :)
The bits you've made your stainless brackets for. :)
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LPG injectors ?.
Ken
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Oh those, yeah they're just mounts for to hold the LPG injectors.
They're much bigger than petrol injectors as they're flowing gas rather than liquid, so they can't really be mounted under the inlet manifold where the petrol injectors are. So there a six pipes that take the gas from the injectors to the nozzles in the inlet tract.
As these 6 hoses go between lots of parts they are vunerable to wear if they're moving relative to the engine, so the injectors are mounted on the engine rather than the inner wings so there is no relative movement between the pipes and the engine.
I still need to add the larger pipes that feed the two sets of injectors.
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Oh those, yeah they're just mounts for to hold the LPG injectors. .....
Is it worth the extra hassle of LPGing a play thing? And where's your LPG tank going?
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I want to have my cake, and eat it. I'm getting an LPG home filler station so get the gas even cheaper. The tank is already mounted in the back of the car with a nice set of SS straps (I can't help myself, even parts of the chassis are now stainless).
It'll add some weight, but I really want to be using it every day.
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Excellent project and updates.
I have a couple of questions.
1. How easy is it to get paperwork for the car?
2. How do you go about insuring a vehicle like that especially LPG'd?
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Well there are certain rules that mean if its too modified then it'll need to go through and IVA test. Its a bit open to interpretation, but hopefully I've kept it inside those rules, so it'll still be classes as a modified scimitar rather than a kit car.
The DVLA will want to know the new engine code and size, and thats it.
And the insurance company, probably Adrian Flux, will want to know everything thats changed. So that'll take a while to write out :)
My good friend has a Capri with a 400hp supra engine (in PPC this month) in it which is very modified, and his insurance cost around £500, I'm hoping that might be the upper limit.
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I had pretty much a whole day on the car yesterday, and I'm definately getting slower :(
Maybe its cos all the major miles stones have been reached, the body now sits on the redone chassis, the engine is it, and it now runs. Now I need to buckle down and get the hell on with the mass of little jobs left to get it finished.
I did lots yesterday but have little to show for it. Firstly, acting on your advise (thanks folks) I got hold a "cool-stat" that starts opening at a much more resonable 82C and spent yesterday morning fitting it.
So I pulled the inlet off and inlet runners needed moving to get this new thermostat in.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040204.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040205.jpg)
You can see the handsome shape of the V6 so much better without the inlet manifold on it.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040206.jpg)
The other thing I finally got round to doing yesterday was the crank sensor. Its the bain of every after market ECU installer, its the thing that most often causes trouble with an aftermarket installation and I too have been bitten. There is an intermittent fault that shows up as a major but infrequent misfire. There is an LED on the ECU that changes fro green to red if it looses the Crank signal, and thats exactly what happens when it misfires. The ECU looses the signal so can't fire the sparks.
After reading up on it it seems the signal in the wire is very weak so can be lost in the "noise" of the surrounding wire even though its a shielded wire.
So I spent a long time taking this particular wire out of the engine loom, (the one that had taken ages to make neat by having all the sire go through one connector) and routing it away from all other wires and through a different area in the bulkhead. I resoldered the wires really close to the ECU so the sheild was in tact as far as possible. Here's the sensor wire going back from the engine to a point low in the bulkhead.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040207.jpg)
The result of my work...... It misfires more now :( :( AAAAGGGHHHHH
I did have the sensor out of the block to see if it was covered in metal deposite. So now I'm not sure if it is my meddling with the wires of the sensor itself thats messed it up.
Next port of call is to buy a brand new sensor, if that doesn't cure it the ECU will need to go back so they can adjust the "sensitivity something or other". I really hope the new sensor cures it.
I had to fix the lathe yesterday too, the inverter had started messing up the garage circiut breaker. With that now working my brother is sailing through his Capri brake upgrade, and my project has slowed accordingly to help.
My christmas holiday is evaporating with little to show for it :(
I might get one more day on it hopefully.
More to come
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You've read this thread I take it mate? Might be relevant, might not:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=96562.msg1197584;boardseen#new
Jon
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If it's the old sensor from the donor, I'd get a new one. The wire gets brittle and a bit of bending it around will soon kill it. Also, worth making sure you have the right sensor as described in the link. If the sensor doesn't have enough reach it will give a weak signal. Otherwise, the signal shouldn't be that susceptible to noise. It's a few volts at idle and increases with RPM from there.
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I've had a good read of that thread, and am I right in thinking the correct one for the x30xe is the bosch sensor?
I hadn't realised there was a length difference in the two sensors. I'm guessing the aftermarket ECU isn't going to be that bothered which sensor I get aside from the strength of signal.
I did get the calipers in there and measure that there is a 3mm gap between the sensor and the trigger wheel. will the seimens sensor reduce that gap.
Thanks for all your help with this folks.
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A little on my brothers Capri brake upgrade for those that are interested :)
It was meant to be a simple bolt on job. We found a kit for the rear but it turns out the weld on bracket (which is very well made) falls in totally the wrong place so some massive strong extensions have had to be made to get the bracket to a suitable place for welding to the axle tube.
And the front was based on the capri sport kits you can get but we did it ourselves. Thing is I found the wrong discs totally, we've got focus discs that will fit behind his 13" wheels, but they're not "tall" enough so we've had to make a large bracket to go between the Mondeo caliper and the mounts on the strut. So we talked it through and bought a whole load of different drill bits, a tap, some bolts, and some chunky 40x40mm steel bar. I had to go visiting down south so left my brother to it. He's done a cracking job, I'm full of brotherly pride :)
Here's the bar cut into two lengths
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040209.jpg)
He then skimmed 6mm off on the lathe, taking them down to 40x36mm, the right size for the gap between the caliper and the mounts.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040210.jpg)
Then just as I do, he got all carried away as things started moving and didn't take any more photos till it was done. But hopefully you get the idea from the finished item. The steel block is bolted to the caliper, there are section ground out of the block to clear the hub and to clear the piston of the caliper.
The main problem that made it difficult is that the caliper can't be rotated up the disc as the mounting points on the strut foul on the caliper (see photos), so it can only be moved up or down from the intended position by a few degrees. For this reason the caliper bolts and the strut bolts, end up nearly on top of each other. To get round this he turned a little off the caliper bolts to fit them into a counter bore, if you know what I mean (picture speaks a thousand words).
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040211.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040212.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040214.jpg)
More to come on the scim soon.
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Yeah :) :) a productive morning on the lathe.
To recap, I've fitted a PAS rack to the car for its quick ratio but don't want the Assistance so I've got loads of feel. Thing is I might change my mind so I'm retaining the original pump, and butchering another one to make a free wheel pulley so that the belt still takes the correct path over all the pulleys.
The cir-clip thingy wasn't coming out at all, so I got the dye grinder out and hacked away till I could pull the pump apart.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040215.jpg)
Interesting internals, I think its called a vein (sp?) type pump but its got little paddles thats ride round an odd shaped bore. Anyway thats all on the bin :)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040216.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040217.jpg)
I pressed the solid bearing out and started making an arrangement to get the new pulley mounted.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040218.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040219.jpg)
Checked all the dimensions out to make sure it'll be in the same possition as the original
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040220.jpg)
Ground the hell out of the casing to lose a bit of weight, but hopefully not too much strength
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040224.jpg)
Made a few more bits on the lathe and its all done :) Starting from the left, there are the big washers that clamp the bearing in the pulley centre. There is the spacer that goes between them (still in the bearing), obviously this is a little too small to allow the washers to clamp down on the bearing. Then there's the T shaped thingy that goes into the PAS Pump casing, and again is slighty too short to allow the washer and nut to clamp down on the casing.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040222.jpg)
Used an old pinto head bolt to hold the whole thing together. And voila:
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040223.jpg)
Might be just a bit more to come before my holiday draws to a close.
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All done and back on, there are a whole load of parts that can go back on to pretty much finish the car forward of the A pillar, but they're all waiting on the new CPS to arrive. I think this is a good place to be before work starts again: easy weekend progress to keep the project ticking over week by week.
For now heres a pic of the new item installed with no bulky tank circulating oil, you can't see any wobbling due to out of alignment :)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040225.jpg)
Thanks all for following.
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Still brilliant. HNY Lozzz :y :y :y
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Thanks Shackeng, HNY to you and all!
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Hi folks, I've had a little go in the garage today, misserably slow progress this morning, just cleaning up all the s**t that my brother has left in his despirate attempt to get his capri road worthy, I found so many broked tools, anyway!
This afternoon, I spent several hours chasing the CPS/ECU issue that prevents the engine from running properly and from starting sometimes. I've tried everything and reached the point that most aftermarket customers eventually reach: I think might be one of the very few unlucky ones where the ECU might perhaps be at fault....... but probably not :(
Then I set about making another water hose. I've previous made the radiator top hose from aluminium with a screw type car tyre valve T-peice. But it was always very slightly leaked, not at the valve as you'd expect but as the connection with the rubber radiator hose. the ali hose is slightly oval'd so the jubilee clamp didn't squeeze it tight enough, you can just see in the photo, whitness marks.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR065.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR066.jpg)
I got some SS tube instead so I could weld a T-piece on.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR067.jpg)
And now the hose is neatly (ish) tied to the top of the fan cowling.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR068.jpg)
Then I changed both top ball joint rubbers that had already perished and cracked through even though the car hasn't even left the garage (ebay quality)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR069.jpg)
More to come
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Still making progress, then :)
Are you going to bead the SS tube at all? Might help sealing - bead formers are kinda hard to come by, admittedly! Although there is this gadget: http://crendonreplicas.com/tools.html - works very well (I found it better than a proper bead roller, certainly easier to use!)
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Aaron, thats a very cool tool! I'd rerally like one, but its quite a lot of money. I'm happy that the tight fit and the serious SS jubilees should hold it suitably.
I wish my progress was a lot faster, this is the first time I've spent more than an hour in the garage since christmas :( very depressing!
I'll probably get one more day at best before work starts again.
Thanks for your help.
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Aaron, thats a very cool tool! I'd rerally like one, but its quite a lot of money. I'm happy that the tight fit and the serious SS jubilees should hold it suitably.
It is kinda expensive - usually I'd balk at that price for a tool like that .. if it weren't for the fact that I know it's made by a bloke called John who's at least 65 and still works (as far as I can tell!) 7 days a week in a draughty old ex-RAF workshop - great bloke and makes some beautiful cars (the chassis is a work of art).. anyway, I digress :)
Now get back out in that garage! ;) I hope yours is warmer than mine - just about lost my finger to frost bite in there last week :o ;D
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I had a cheaky little evening session on the car this evening. I'm by no means down in the dumps, I'm far too busy with work to be, but in terms of the project, it has reached a new low!
I'm been fighting with this running problem for months now. I've been emailing the very helpful folk at Canems for ages, suggestions have been going back and forth to no avail, to the point where the ECU was connected only to power, earth (straight to battery) and the brand new CPS, nothing else, there could be no earthing issues, it didn't even involve the car at all.
David at Canems eventually threw in the towel and admitted it was a bit odd, so suggested sending it back for testing. I got it back in the post today :( there is nothing wrong with it, its been running a real engine for a length of time, I'm so gutted, I was really hoping there would be something wrong with it :( :(
So I fitted it, with nothing else at all connected as before and it seemed to work the first 20 ish starts of the engine (just turning over on the starter), so I started connecting sensors and then... back to its old tricks! Took all the sensors back off again, right back to how I started again and the fault is still there.
So once again, I tried a mirriad of different things, there is so little interferrence its unbelieveable, nothing that could possible make (electrical) noise is on, (accept the starter) nothing that could posssibly pick up any electrical noise is connected to the ECU, even the alternator is fully disconected, not even turning (belt is off). Its so annoying.
SO....
Back to the other plan, I'll look though that thread on here about the difference between the 2.5 and 3.0 CPS and see if the 2.5 will end up any closer to the trigger wheel, its got to be worth a try, its made by a different manufacturer apparently so could well make a stronger signal.
Here's a little reminder of how the car looks (yep exactly the same for now) taken with my new SLR (retail therapy helps)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR258.jpg)
More to come
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Have you got an Oscilloscope? Just thinking it might be worth a look at the crank sensor volts?
Odd that it worked for a while then started acting up, though.
Battery voltage falling perhaps?
A new, correct, crank sensor would be a good move, IMHO. They are pretty unreliable and appear to have several failure modes.
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I was thinking of borrowing an oscilloscope from work and checking the signal.
The CPS I have is brand new (in an attempt to resolve the issue some months ago), I'll try the different type sensor next then bring the CRO home if needs be.
The battery is brand new, Varta silver jobby, spins the engine a treat, the voltage drop is very small as its in perfec health, the ECU can take as low as 5v too I think.
Thanks for the siggestions Kevin, keep them coming.
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Ah, OK. Forgot we'd already been there. :-[
It might be handy to get a trace of the crank sensor signal during cranking. You could then approach the ECU manufacturer and ask if it's in spec.
I'd be happy to measure mine for comparison purposes. That might show up a potentially incorrect sensor.
Only other thing I can think of is that ignition interference is getting into the ECU. Are the +12v supplies to the coil packs bypassed with a capacitor close to the coil?
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Its good thinking Kev, but I'm afraid the coils have been long disconnected :( along with anything else that coudl possible causing noise of any kind.
I'll bear that in mind with the oscilloscope thank you very much :) I'll persue that route after trying the other sensor type.
On that note could I possible tap the wealth of knowledge here regarding sourcing a GM/siemens type sensor as per this page:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=96562.msg1197584;boardseen#new
The old one was bosch type, the new replacement part is the same bosch type, so I'm really keen to try the Siemens one with the GM letters on the back and see if the ECU likes that signal better.
Could anyone point me in the direction of where I could buy one with an oval type connector. I've looked on ebay and not had much luck yet.
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How was it running with the coils disconnected? Or is the problem evident during cranking?
(bear in mind the battery voltage may be dipping quite low if the starter motor is being fed from the same battery as the ECU)
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The problem (I'm assuming they're linked) is apparent when cranking. Sometimes the ECU recognises the engine is turning and sometimes not.
Too recap the long saga thast been unfolding over the last couple of months, below is a massive thing I wrote on one of the other forums:
The battery is brand new, and I believe the ECU can take as low as 5v. The sensor is shielded as per standard, and earthed at one end only. The one end only thing is the only advice I’ve ever read, in fact I think I’ve read in Dave walkers section in the mag that it shouldn’t be earthed at both ends. I’m not wishing to sound ungrateful just what I’ve read (I’m in way over my head now anyway).
There is a lot more in previous posts about the fault (although you’ve got to look way back, its been going on for a while). But the basics are as follows:
I’ve checked and checked the polarity, to the point where I made a connector that reversed the polarity of signal wires, and its definitely wired up correctly.
There are two symptoms, of what I imagine are the same problem.
Firstly there is a two colour LED on the ECU, red for no CPS signal (or not recognized) and green for CPS signal ok (when green the ECU then starts dishing out sparks and fuel). When cranking the engine to start, the LED goes green in less that a second (as it should), but sometimes it just stays red. If its stays red for more than a few seconds you can guarantee it’ll just stay red indefinitely. Stop spinning the engine and start again, and it’ll go green (and start of course). It doesn’t matter if the ECU is left powered on between tries, or switched off, it seems unrelated. This is not a major issue but might be embarrassing when starting the car to show folk .
The second issue (and more importantly), is while the engine is running the LED momentarily goes red (quarter of a second maybe), the engine begins to die then picks up to idle again. The “hiccup” happened quite randomly, and without warning, something like every 30 seconds. It happens regardless of throttle position and revs.
The fault is “the ECU is loosing the CPS signal momentarily (or indefinatley when cranking). I’m not sure why.
Obviously I can’t try much disconnecting with the engine still running and I’m working on the assumption that the two symptoms are one problem, I’ve bee trying to fix the problem and testing the success (or lack of) by cranking only and observing the LED.
There have been numerous emails between the manufacture and myself, with many a suggestion tried, bit the main theme so far has been get the earthing right and make sure its not picking up any noise.
Its no got to the point where nothing at all is running accept the starter motor, with one massive thick lead to the pos on the motor, and the block earthed via the chassis back to the battery in the back of the car.
And the ECU with a wire powering it straight from the battery pos and the 3 ECU earths running separately all the way back to the batter neg.
There can be no earthing issues, none of the sensors are connected to the ECU none are connected to earth, they’re just parts sitting in the car. The cars loom is dead I’ve been turning the engine by shorting the pos on the starter the start solenoid with a spanner. None of which is anywhere near the ECU or any of its wiring.
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Where you have been concentrating on a weak crank sensor signal or interference, have you also considered the following:
1. On start up it could be the voltage drop / noise is crashing the ECU so the red LED stays on. Have you tried running with a common earth and separate 12v supply for the ECU?
2. Likewise rather than crank sensor noise, causing intermittent problems, it might again be ECU PS noise from the starter motor or alternator (if connected).
I agree with Kevin if another crank sensor, doesn't solve the problem, then using a CRO to look at the crank signal and PS starting voltage drop and noise is the next step.
I hope this is of help
I really enjoyed reading about this interesting project and hope you manage to get the crank sensor problems sorted soon. :y
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Some thoughts.
You need to think carefuly about your grounding approach.
Star grounding will be key as sensors such as the crank, cam and knock will be unhappy seeing any potential eddy current passing through the screens.
Similarly, the approach taken for the supply needs to be good so seperate large cable from the battery to the starter/alternator and a further from the ECU to battery via fuses as required.
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Rods2,
I've looked into the low voltage while cranking thing and the ECU can take as low as 5v, if the LED is showing at all then there's plenty of voltage to run it, the battery is brand new too.
The alternator is disconnected and not even spinning, it could be the starter, but I'm working on the assumption (for now) that it must be able to cope with starter motor noise!?!
Thanks for your suggestions, and I'm glad you like reading the posts :)
Mark,
The feed to the starter is massive, its super thick telecoms cable, and the ECU has a completely sepparate feed from the battery terminal giving it the best chance possible, I've not yet gone as far as to try the ECU on a completely sepparate battery though.
Forgive my ignorance, but that is "Star Grounding" this is something th eECU people mentioned.
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Lozz .. I'm sure Mark will answer better .. but I only know of star grounding in relation to audio, to reduce hum .. I'm guessing the principle is the same ..
Have a read here .. explains it in great detail in relation to amplifiers ...
http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/stargnd/stargnd.htm
There are better articles around but thats the best google found for me .. HTH
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Hmmm..... you don't know how important some things are till you start reading about them ay!?
I'll put this in with my list of things to try.
Thanks Entwood
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I've had about a day on the car in the last 5 weeks :( :(, but I had the opportunity to get a CRO on the sensor and have a look at the signal. I don't know what I'm looking for really, but its served a purpose, I've emailed it to the ECU manufacturer to see if its in spec (ish) for their ECU.
It looks pretty clean to me. I'm guessing the three "humps" are compressions (as its turning on the starter motor) and the spike is the gap of 2 teeth giving the ECU a possition as well as speed. The second photo is with the siemens sensor (thats another £40 down the pan then).
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR463.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR464.jpg)
More to come (in another 6 months :( )
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......
More to come (in another 6 months :( )
That'll give me time to get a bigger monitor ::) ::) ;) :y :y
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Uuuurrmm yeah! just trying to downsize that now!
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What was the vertical Volts/div on those pictures?
But yes, on the face of it the signals look nice and clean. :-\
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fantastic reading the thread so far - good luck and keep us updated. Wish I had the time/ability and tools to do something like this myself :y
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Thanks F1 9LFG, I'll keep posting whenever there is progress :)
The spike is just reaching 0.3V, but when connected to a multimeter to give ac voltage, it reads 0.9V rms, not sure which to believe really.
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The variation in amplitude is a bit of a concern (e.g., as if a sinusoid is superimposed on it!).
As a pointer, Vx used the DIS pack mount as the main graound point where three wires connected in order to produce a good un-disturbed ground for all the sensors, actuators and the ECU.
As for the mutimeter reading, is it a good true RMS meter. If not then its a false value as it would be assuming a sinusoid (which its not) :y
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Mark, I was worried about the Overlayed Sin way too, but David at Canems didn't seem to think that was a problem, probably just hte variation in engine speed at cranking due to compressions (there are 3 every rev).
A little Update,
I've since tried it with the ECU connected, and its very much the same. I've measured the eccentricity of the trigger wheel too, and its less than 0.2mm out with a gap of about 1.5mm (not the 3mm I'd previously thought.
David at Canems kindly put another ECU together for me with "reduced sensitivty" I'm afraid the ECU bit is a little beyond me, but it should be more tolerant of a weak signal.
Got that through in the post the other day and tried it, Exactly the same thing happened :( :(
So I tried the loom they send through too, its just got the power wires and the CPS signal wires and thats its! Its completely free of anything on the car, and anything I've made, I even connected it to a different battery to the one that was cranking the negine, it still showed the problem! This is now far beyond my understanding, I'm hoping hte ECU fairy will fix it one night while I'm sleeping.
I'm waiting to hear back from David at Canems again now, I can see my only two options being, get a different ECU (different make) or fit another trigger wheel on the engines front pulley.
More to come
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The ECU will be looking for the zero crossing points of the signal so, as long as the amplitude is high enough to overcome the hysteresis of the detector circuit in the ECU, it should be irrelevant.
Might be worth asking the ECU manufacturer what it is, because the only thing I can imagine might be wrong with that signal is that the amplitude is too low or the version the ECU is seeing is noisy.
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I see what you're saying, I've emailed all the info, with lots of photo's and CRO traces to the ECU manufacturer, I'm a little out of my depth when it comes to understanding signals and programing.
I'll post up the ECU manufacturers reply soon.
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OOO I never posted the reply, Canems, have suggested that the next port of call be to put a trigger wheel at the front of the engine :(
I just want it working so here goes.
I've found a little time to mess about in the garage. I've mostly been cleaning up everyone elses s***, but its all sparkly now:
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120604_175609.jpg)
So I've started looking into the next idea to fix the engine running problem. I'm going to machine up the engine pulley to become the new trigger wheel and mount the sensor up front. Here are a few photos of the front end and pulley.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120604_175811.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120604_175802.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120604_175753.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120604_180010.jpg)
I really really really really can't wait to have this part of the project behind me, and get back on with finishing the car.
Next port of call for today is to find a new inverted to get the lathe running again.
More to come.
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.....
I've found a little time to mess about in the garage. .....
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120604_175609.jpg) .....
Where's the green with envy smiley when you need one? :( :(
I NEED a garage like that ......... with a lathe in the corner! ;) ;) ;)
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the scope patterns dont look right.
http://www.picoauto.com/waveforms/Sensors/Crankshaft
make sure the scope earth is connected to the body close to the source and not on the battery.
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Tidla,
I'm really sorry I hadn't spotted your reply, I'll have a good look through that article when I've got more time.
I've ordered the recommended crank sensor for a machined front pulley :( , the 3rd one now!
Anyway when I had dropped the CRO off with my friend, we had time for this fun beforeI returned.......
So a few months back I went to see my good buddy pete, (we were at uni together) now most people would be happy to laze about and catch up but not pete, first thing saturday morning we were off to the scrappy to get the bits to make a jet engine.
We got did it, we made a jet engine in well under 48 hours and fired it up that weekend, its was a lot of fun. Pete did the research before I got there, he did lots of cutting and lateral thinking around problems, and sourcing the parts, I did the calculations for the flame tube and the welding.
When I turned up this time, he and another friend have mounted the jet in a BBQ!!!!
What an Amxing BBQ, we fired it up for the first time in its new home, and it cooked a sausage in no time!
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120610_114320.jpg)
Here's the bit me and pete made:
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120610_114329.jpg)
This is how to start it with the leave blower:
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/th_20120610_120756.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/?action=view¤t=20120610_120756.mp4)
And antoehr vid of it running:
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/th_20120610_121215.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/?action=view¤t=20120610_121215.mp4)
Cool or what (well maybe pointless)
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.....
I've found a little time to mess about in the garage. .....
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120604_175609.jpg) .....
Where's the green with envy smiley when you need one? :( :(
I NEED a garage like that ......... with a lathe in the corner! ;) ;) ;)
I was having similar thoughts Andy, even more room to fill with junk....... :D :D :D
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Jet engine in bbq - no idea why,but its brilliant. :D ;D ;D
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... even more room to fill with junk....... :D :D :D
That's always the flip side ....... :-[ :-[
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... even more room to fill with junk....... :D :D :D
That's always the flip side ....... :-[ :-[
My garage is an embarrassment, full of so much junk, tools and things that will come in handy one day...... ::) ::) ::)
It leaks live a sieve at the moment so needs a new roof, that should encourage a good old sort out..... :y :y
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Thanks folks, the BBQ is kind of nuts! Me and pete wanted the engineering challenge of making a jet really, then his mate did all the amazing craftmanship on the actual BBQ.
He's really into making very randon things, he holds the guiness world record for the fastest mobility scooter, and the worlds longest motorcycle, he held the record for the largest bonfire too but that was beaten 6 months later. There are some interesting vids of his on youtube under Collin Furze. He's hoping to get the BBQ in a national paper of some sort or a lads mag. All this nonsense has got him contracts with tv companies making randon things for shows.
I'm very lucky yo have a garage like this (this might be part of the reason I'm still sponging off my parents :) :) ).
I've had a glance at the sensor trace articles, and I think mine looks ok, its very similar to this one:
http://www.picoauto.com/waveforms/Sensors/Crankshaft/wave101.html
Except I had the CRO set up to squash the wave up a lot more so that one crank rotation fitted on the screen. But the "lumps" are there on mine and the website (the variations in the speed due to compressions), and the spike (due to the gap), and each tooth, although mine are a lot closer as the CRO was set up differently (the timebase).
I'm more than happy to be corrected, but I think its ok??
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I've had a glance at the sensor trace articles, and I think mine looks ok, its very similar to this one:
http://www.picoauto.com/waveforms/Sensors/Crankshaft/wave101.html
Except I had the CRO set up to squash the wave up a lot more so that one crank rotation fitted on the screen. But the "lumps" are there on mine and the website (the variations in the speed due to compressions), and the spike (due to the gap), and each tooth, although mine are a lot closer as the CRO was set up differently (the timebase).
I'm more than happy to be corrected, but I think its ok??
All your traces have looked fine to me. You can see that when the amplitude drops so does the frequency. It's just the engine passing each compression stroke as you say. I really can't understand why your ECU isn't happy with it. :-\
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Indeed, I was concerned about the superimposed sinusoid but it could be a poor ground return connection.
Me thinks the ECU is an issue here.
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Sorry to hear that you're still having issues with the ECU Lozz and I do hope you'll eventually get to the root of the problem.
This has been a very enjoyable thread to follow and it's good to see the progress you've made so far - well done.
(I love that wee lathe sitting rather primly in the corner :-* :-*)
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Thank Dummkopf Den, I've loved doing all the work, this issue has been a pain though.
There is news on the CPS issue, I'm just trying to get the photos of someone then I will post.
The lathe is a sweety, but the converter has packed up and I'm trying to get the correct inverter sorted to get it running again.
The ECU software has been the conclusion on the scimitar forum too :(, so I'm giving it one more chance (as its the cheapest by the long way) and have had teeth machined in to the front pulley, giving it a 36-1 trigger wheel. Hense the photos to follow.
More to come
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So I finally gave in and ordered another CPS, and a great opportunity presented itself. I needed the pulley machining to make a 36-1 trigger wheel to give this ECU its best chance of working.
A student at college, on a higher level course was looking to gain some experience in the workshop, so I asked him if he would like to machine the pulley for me....... The following photos are the amazing results that were achieved.
Initially the inner surface was cleaned up a bit to register correctly on the indexing head on the bed of the milling machine.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/1.jpg)
Then the pulley was mounted in the milling machine then Ben used a 7mm cutter to mill out the teeth before turning the pulley 10 degrees to cut the next.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/2.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/3.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/4.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/5.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/6.jpg)
He was even kind enough to clean up the part afterwards.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/7.jpg)
I owe Ben big time for his excellent work, and can’t wait to get the sensor through in the post and make the mount up.
More to come
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Nice work,takes me back to my previous employment as a toolmaker :y
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Impressed with this thread, alot of work on that crank trigger.
you can buy the trigger plates and weld them on the end, but impressive machining and a more robust solution
Very usefull though as i am fitting the same engine to my Ginetta, and also replacing the running gear with Omega parts as well
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Impressed with this thread, alot of work on that crank trigger.
you can buy the trigger plates and weld them on the end, but impressive machining and a more robust solution
Yep, have a look at www.trigger-wheels.com (http://www.trigger-wheels.com). Run by a mate of mine. :y
No need when you can just machine the pulley though. Very nice. :y
Very usefull though as i am fitting the same engine to my Ginetta, and also replacing the running gear with Omega parts as well
Ooh! Another project! Keep us updated. :y
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^^^^
thanks for that website, useful
I wasnt sure about a build thread, but i might just do one now :)
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Thanks guys,
A little update then,
Nothing too exciting but its moving in the right direction.
Got hte oilstat through in the post and started to measure the hoses up. The pulley is being balances this week I can't really make a bracket until thats back on the engine.
The oil pipes have to go down to the chassis then up the suspension pillar to the oil stat which will be where the battery used to be. The exhaust is quite close to where the hoses come out of the block so some kind of heat shield will need making to protect them. The from the stat to the cooler through the now hole where the battery used to be. I cut up an old fuel hose to neaten up the hole, I'm quite pleased with how it looks.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120616_152058.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120616_152110.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120616_152156.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120616_182959.jpg)
Also put threadr locked the other side SS exhaust studs.
On another note, I made a little bracket thingy to mount the phone/mp3 player to a false tape, so the phone is there infront of you displaying the song/satnav right infront of the stereo. Photos of this to follow (can't photo it cos was using the phone).
More to come
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Got the hoses crimped to the right length on wednesday and picked up the newly balanced front pulley.
Trial fitted the hoses yesterday, mounted the cooler and oilstat and tighted up the front two hoses.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120622_165810.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120622_165757.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120622_165740.jpg)
I'll leave the engine hoses off for now to give access to the engine while making the new CPS mount (todays task).
More to come
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seems slow progress but looking good now lozza :y
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Its very slow at the mo, its a combo of things, new job, new GF, the fact that its not the summer holidays (i.e. long holiday approaching), and I've got really bogged down with the CPS issue.
Did a little more this morning, it felt like it always used to, I just got stuck in, realised I was hungry when I was shaking, single track mind, I loved it this morning.
Basically made the sensor mount for trigger wheel pulley.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120623_140827.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120623_142010.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120623_142019.jpg)
And here's where it goes
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120623_142606.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120623_142620.jpg)
If its assembles, it foals on the trigger wheel (just didn't measure enough times), so I can use washers to get the spacing right, better too close than too far. I'll aim for 0.8mm I think, after the paint dries.
More to come
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nice job. :y
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Got the sensor on and wired up yesterday, I'm pleased it looks nice and neat and tucked away.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120628_191227.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120628_191234.jpg)
And tried it...
Now I've spoken too soon in the past, but I think it might just be WORKING :) :) :) :) I turned the key well over 30 times, and the LED went green every time :) :) :)
I'll tentatively connect other parts and keep trying it with my fingers firmly crossed that thats it. Its looking good at the mo though.
So I'm on the assemble now, first was the coil back on, but there were no front brake lines yet so I made up sone new (ish) ones that go straight from the master to each side, the bias valve thingy is no longer needed see (there is an adjustable one in the car now).
And they look like this
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120628_211247.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120628_211300.jpg)
Not masses of progress toningt, but, all being well, a majorstep forward in overcoming a 9 month "glitch"
More to come
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lets hope so. well done so far. :y
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A well overdue update with the project now that the photobucket account is unlocked.
To start with I thought I'd try my hand at boring the throttle body out, I thought I'd put it on the lathe to increase the bore then use a bit of bar with an angled top mounted in the lathe, with a sheet of brass screwed to it to make the new butterfly (see the pics).
Stripped the throttle body down first (a spare one I bought incase it went wrong :) )
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120701_094814.jpg)
Then had a think about how best to mount it (turns out the best way would be on a milling machine but meh), I glued a couple of small strips of sheet steel to the bottom as the flat bas of the throttle body has one raised section. This way the flat bottom will be parallel to the face of the four jaw chuck.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120701_112202.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120701_112157.jpg)
I really should have had a photo of it in the lathe, it took a while to get it central with the dial gauge and make more difficult with all the machined surfaces being against the face of the chuck, so I had to kind of guess and centralise it off the cast inner surface of the upstream side. It came out well though, here you can see the right bore done and the left still to do
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120701_122925.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120701_122940.jpg)
The slits in the spindle needed widening a little, this was a proper "farm engineering" job, I used a wood saw :) and it worked.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120701_124632.jpg)
This was the relatively easy bit done, the butterflies were the tricky bit really. With an increase from 54mm dia to 57mm the increase in CSA is 11% which should hopefully equate to an increase in power at the very top end of the revs.
I "umm'd and ahh'd" for a while about how best to make the slanted top bar for making the butterflies. Then gave in and used the workshop at work. Unfortunately I can't say I made the parts in the next couple of photo's but Dave in the workshop took the helm and did a fantastic job. First of all making surface grinding the bar to correct angle.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120716_214232.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120716_214240.jpg)
This was mounted in the lathe and the butterfly turned so that it would come out with slightly slanted side to seal in the body at 4 degrees.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120716_214431.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120716_214443.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120716_214356.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120716_214342.jpg)
The Spindle has also been countersunk and smaller machine screws bought
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120716_214707.jpg)
This is when I found that the way the body was clamped in the four jaw chuck (using only two jaws) had meant that the bore were 0.02mm oval :( but this was easy enough to fix by gently sanding the edges of the butterflies until the profile matched the bore. And here's the finished item, its been tried and seals sufficiently well that the idle valve settings didn't need changing :) The rolling road tuning session will give the answer as to whether all this has been worth the effort.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120716_214023.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120716_214011.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120716_213958.jpg)
Next I had a go at the idler puller (was the PAS) I wasn’t too happy with the wobble it had, so I got a new bearing for it (was the timing belt idler bearing), but this didn’t cure it, the problem being that the PAS pulley is much bigger diameter than the timing belt idler would have been so any movement in the bearing is very amplified by the size of the pulley. Long story short… I put a second bearing in with the first, right next to it, so now there is no movement sideways at all, you can just about make out the extended hub of the pulley in these photos.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120707_114150.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120707_114201.jpg)
Another little project was to make a little section of electricery for the front of the car with some relays, a resistor and the slow start jobby for the interior blower.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120630_212252.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120630_212239.jpg)
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Another little job was to fit an adapter thingy that means I can have the oil pressure gauge and the low oil pressure warning sender both attached to the oil system. I’ve wired this up with the oil level warning sender and the coolant level warning sender into a circuit with a little relay so that if anything out of order a buzzer sounds (which can be silenced when starting the car with a push button)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120707_131018.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120707_131046.jpg)
The new oil lines go pretty close to the exhaust manifold, so I think I’m going to get them ceramic coated (as this will help with corrosion too), but in addition I’ve made a little heat shield mounted on the exhaust manifold that goes between the pipes and the… pipes
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120630_135038.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120630_135056.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120630_135108.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120630_143242.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120630_143354.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120630_143416.jpg)
I had to have the manifold off again to further grind out the throttle body mounting point so there is no lip between the throttle body and the manifold.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120801_181010.jpg)
The MAP sensor was neatly mounted on the engine, tucked away, turns out they don’t like heat or vibration so that’s packed up already and I had to fit a new one on the side of the engine bay.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120801_183217.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120801_183233.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120801_191127.jpg)
Got the axle off (again) and started to strip it in an attempt to change the diff to the quaiffe item.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120718_195828.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120718_175018.jpg)
Got the drive flanges off and put the sacrificial one on (the bent one) complete with half shaft puller (chain and jack)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120718_200043.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120718_200300.jpg)
And just three snags of the chain later…..
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120718_200334.jpg)
Took the diff out and took it to work and took the accurate measurements, only to figure out that its really b***dy difficult to get the bearings off, and I’m still at it.
In the mean time This rear disc conversion is available if anyone fancies it. It includes the caliper mounts made by Sam Laurenzelly (I think that’s his surname) who was a scimitar man not so long ago and started the V8 Church website, the audi calipers will come with it and the spacers of different thicknesses to get the disc in the right place, the calipers have been modified to accept the scimitar hand brake cable. So all that would need finding is new discs and flexi hoses (they’re not included).
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120718_175453.jpg)
Bear in mind that these weren’t quite strong enough and put a little too much bias on the front brakes, so something would need doing about that. This conversion would work really well with a front brake conversion (if smaller piston calipers were used up front).
Over the last couple of days I’ve been busy getting all the wiring squared away, the LC-1 is is connected and giving a proper lambda ratio reading through the Canems ECU, the LPG ECU is fully connected to the Canems ECU and tank, but not yet the other LPG components, and the front end loom is back in the left wing. The engine is running perfectly with the fault not having shown is face again, and the idle is much sweeter now its not 18 AFR.
More to come
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Nice work on the throttle body mate,looks good :y :y
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Thanks henry :)
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Good to see it progressing after all of the ECU problems you had. :y :y :y :y
Nice work on the throttle bodies, :y it will be interesting to what difference it makes. Is your exhaust more free flowing than the standard Omega one?
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Thanks rods2, i cant wait to get it on the rollers and see. It'll be hard to say what difference tje throttle body makes as there are a few othe alterations. As you mention, the exhaust it very different, the manifolds are home made tubular SS, 1.5" bore 27" primary pipes into a 2.5" straight through SS exhaust pipe system. I've also ported the heads a little and although the ram air system is excellent the diameter of the pipes nearing the air box is far too small so i binned that and the restrictive air mass meter, it works off a MAP sensor now.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/P1040171.jpg)
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That's a great up-date Lozz - it's encouraging to see the progress made. 8) :y
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A little update.
I feel like I'm working fretty fast at the mo, but there isn't much to show for it, its the kind where you do loads and get nowhere, then it all comes together and there is lots to show, well I've not quite got there yet.
I changed the hole in the passenger kick plate to suit the new fuse box, and it seems to work really well, its a snug fit and clips into the plate with no toehr parts being needed :)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120807_163822.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120807_163932.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120807_163917.jpg)
Filled the hole where the loom used to go to the screen wash bottle and used the other small hole that is now available (as I'm not using the rear screen washer any more, then mounted the screen wash in its new slightly different location
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120807_181346.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120807_181408.jpg)
But I spent the largest part of today making the housing that will enclose all of the loom I have made above the passengers legs, its nearly there, photo's to follow.
More to come
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I've finally got all the main section of loom tucket away in the passeneger side, and made this under tray for it.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120808_144305.jpg)
This meant I had to finish all the wiring coming from that section, so the last of the LPG loom now goes through the bulkhead to connect to the rest of the LPG components, you can see the wiring going round the back of the engine.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120808_221457.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120808_221442.jpg)
Next I made a bracket to hold both ECUs, there are heat sink connections on the bottom of the Canems ECU, its meant to be connected to something that can disopate heat, so this 2mm ali sheet should do the trick, it certainly conducts heat well (as I found when grinding it).
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120808_111823.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120808_112207.jpg)
The bracket bolts in with the glove box lid, I've welded some nuts on the loom undertray as it would be a real pain trying to get the nut on past all the electrics in there, its literally full of loom.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120808_144317.jpg)
I'm now in the process of making a panel for the lower half of the central dash, this wil have all the fuel pump switches, and the very reduced heat controls.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120808_221544.jpg)
I'm fitting a CB radio, as a few of my mates have them and they're pretty good fun, but can't seem to find a spare place for it, thinging about ontop of th dash, but its really not looking good.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120808_221602.jpg)
And finally I'm nearly finished fitting the bike speedometer in the originals possition, just got to fix the bulb bracket on the back and check it illuminates the speedo ok.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120809_074346.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120809_074527.jpg)
More to come
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I fitted a bike speedo to an Alfa romeo 90 years ago which had a knackered digital speedo,it worked ok up to around 70mph then would go blank,maybe they are better these days ???
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This speedo is very optumistic as its displayed speeds above 90, I've yet to see what happens if it were to reach tripple figures.
Done a bit more work on it this morning, the reflective white inner surface wasn't taking any light forward to reflect back onto the screen so in the dark, it was beautifully back lit but the screen was completely unreadable.
So, I sprayed the inside of the housing black and set about fitting a light to the dash moulding itself.
This is the old cigarette lighter backlight and housing now mounted in the dial surround. I've decided to bin all the switch illumination and the cig lighter socket illumination as it was all very fiddly and often stopped working, it means I can slightly reduce the loom in that area, I'll keep the switch gear and add new switches rather than replace the lot, and I'll keep the dials all illuminated. Anyway, this means I had a load of bulb holders to play with.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120809_105025.jpg)
Neatened up the wiring a bit (it was very bodged)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120809_105031.jpg)
And the finished item. The illumination took a while to get right but it now casts light pretty much only on the screen of the bike speedo.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120809_105154.jpg)
More to come
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Decision made, I'll not use the CB 99% of the time so roof mounted it is, its out of the way and easy to get to,
Started off with some SS strips, drilled some holes and cut them to shape.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120809_194542.jpg)
Bent them to an L shape.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120809_194956.jpg)
And bolted them to the sides of the radio.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120809_195219.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120809_195227.jpg)
Drilled the little mounting holes in the ceiling, then drilled a much bigger hole between them so that some screw clip fixing things could be used (I've found the GRP to be useless with screws).
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120809_202336.jpg)
Da-da!!!!
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120809_203512.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120809_203534.jpg)
There was still some evening left so I wired it in too and took the wires past the driver sun viser, you should be able to see in the photos.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120809_214628.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120809_214638.jpg)
I even tested it and heard someone somewhere talking :) :)
More to come
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Looking good mate - more than interesting project.
Also much more sensible place for petrol filter :y
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Thanks dbug :)
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Made a little strengthening piece this morning as the column surround is falling ot bits.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120810_113914.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120810_113920.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120810_120245.jpg)
And found some plugs to fill the holes left by the overdrive switch and an auxilary light of some sort.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120810_122858.jpg)
Then mounted the aux light as a fan indicator, and the LPG switch on the left of the dash panel, then screwed it all together :)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120810_122912.jpg)
I've yet to get the stalks past this modification, that'll be fun. I've never figured out how to get that assembly together without bending some bits and forcing it in there, wonder how they did it in the factory?
Thats all folks for a bit
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you have done a fair bit of work there. The throttle body over bore looks nice work, do you think it will yield much power ? or just smooth things out a bit
All i have done on my project is the front suspension !
Sloow this building malarkey
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It certainly is slow, I've been at it for 2 years now :( I can't wait to drive it again, in fact its probably taking so long cos I keep sitting in it imagining what it'll feel like to drive it again (and maybe making brum brum noises :) ).
The TB should increase air flow at high RPM when the engine is swallowing the most air, the throttle body mod on its own won't make a difference untill a fairly high figure. Its a shame I couldn't do a before and after test run, but rolling road time is so expensive.
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its a shame there isnt a bigger twin throttle body available. I suppose one could be made up or even grafted on from another car.
not sure it would be worth it, unless going full out on an engine or forced induction.
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I had thought about grafting another one on, the boring out was the easy part so my thought was to bore out the body and mount it with no internals then mount a bigger body with a hose between it and the original TB housing, but the original is still the greatest restriction so I though I might as well go the whole way and do the butterflies too.
When grinding out the TB mounts in the plenum, it was apparent that it couldn't be ground out too much bigger, so to really upgrade the front of the plenum would require major work. But there isn't too much point in this with the thought of force feeding the engine in the future.
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It does appear the main restiction is the TB's and mounting point on the plenum
When the time comes i may play around with individual TB's, maybe from a Truimph MC (3pot)
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When talking about the "main restriction" don't forget to include the whole system from air filter to exhaust tailpipe. ;)
Do we know that the throttle body is a significant restriction already? I think the next thing I'd do is a back to back dyno pull with a standard throttle body and a bored out one just to ensure that the weakest link is not elsewhere (valves, cams, head ports, etc.). If it is, further throttle body work is a waste of time.
Manufacturers will rarely specify a component like a throttle body undersize so it'll significantly strangle an engine. That said, they won't make it larger than required either, to keep intake velocity up.
ITBs would certainly be a good move if NA tuning for power. If keeping the low down grunt and flexibility of the engine is a priority I'd stay with the standard setup until it's been proved to be holding it back.
Oh, and I've heard an X30XE individual throttle bodies. :-* That might be a deciding factor, actually. ::)
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When talking about the "main restriction" don't forget to include the whole system from air filter to exhaust tailpipe. ;)
Do we know that the throttle body is a significant restriction already? I think the next thing I'd do is a back to back dyno pull with a standard throttle body and a bored out one just to ensure that the weakest link is not elsewhere (valves, cams, head ports, etc.). If it is, further throttle body work is a waste of time.
Manufacturers will rarely specify a component like a throttle body undersize so it'll significantly strangle an engine. That said, they won't make it larger than required either, to keep intake velocity up.
ITBs would certainly be a good move if NA tuning for power. If keeping the low down grunt and flexibility of the engine is a priority I'd stay with the standard setup until it's been proved to be holding it back.
Oh, and I've heard an X30XE individual throttle bodies. :-* That might be a deciding factor, actually. ::)
I have used overbored TB's before, they do make a small difference, but it has to be taken in context as you say, the whole intake/exhaust system.
The thing i have found over the years is you have to put the effort in if you are looking for the additional power, however small the gains. But a small bit here, a small bit there soon adds up.
I do think that individual TB's would make a significant difference in power and its delivery , if sized correctly.
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I have used overbored TB's before, they do make a small difference, but it has to be taken in context as you say, the whole intake/exhaust system.
The thing i have found over the years is you have to put the effort in if you are looking for the additional power, however small the gains. But a small bit here, a small bit there soon adds up.
This is what modern engine design and the need for efficiency and emissions has given us IMHO. Production engines are engineered in such a way that there is no longer one weak link that, when eliminated, gives us another 20BHP, as might have been the case with older engine designs.
Everything in a modern engine now has to be sized for the target power output, and it therefore follows that, to get a significant increase by conventional tuning, you will need to tweak most parts of the engine (or go forced induction).
I do think that individual TB's would make a significant difference in power and its delivery , if sized correctly.
Yes, but you will struggle to get a long enough intake tract for them to work well at low revs, so probably worth considering about the same time as cam upgrades, where you'll be sacrificing that anyway, IMHO. :y
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I have used overbored TB's before, they do make a small difference, but it has to be taken in context as you say, the whole intake/exhaust system.
The thing i have found over the years is you have to put the effort in if you are looking for the additional power, however small the gains. But a small bit here, a small bit there soon adds up.
This is what modern engine design and the need for efficiency and emissions has given us IMHO. Production engines are engineered in such a way that there is no longer one weak link that, when eliminated, gives us another 20BHP, as might have been the case with older engine designs.
Everything in a modern engine now has to be sized for the target power output, and it therefore follows that, to get a significant increase by conventional tuning, you will need to tweak most parts of the engine (or go forced induction).
I do think that individual TB's would make a significant difference in power and its delivery , if sized correctly.
Yes, but you will struggle to get a long enough intake tract for them to work well at low revs, so probably worth considering about the same time as cam upgrades, where you'll be sacrificing that anyway, IMHO. :y
I have a fair amount of space/clearance under the bonnet of the kit, so might get a compromise on intake length. Low revs/torque isnt so much of an issue either with the lack of weight. However it needs to be tractable/drivable :)
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I have a fair amount of space/clearance under the bonnet of the kit, so might get a compromise on intake length. Low revs/torque isnt so much of an issue either with the lack of weight. However it needs to be tractable/drivable :)
Indeed. not an issue in a light car. My westfield has comparatively little below 3K RPM yet will happily keep up with traffic in 4th. Only mechanical sympathy causes me to change down. If you are "pressing on" you're keeping it above that speed, where it takes off like a thing possessed, so no issue then either. ;D
In fact, having a lump that doesn't dole out loads of grunt at low revs makes it less likely that you (or SWMBO, if you're on the way back from the pub) will get yourself in trouble at the expense of little loss in performance, IMHO.
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I'd really like to do a back to back comparison I'll dispell the myths :) First I need another throttle body as the one Ihad on the engine I'd already fettled with the die grinder :) ( can't leave anything alone.
An update...
There is lots still to do on the scimitar, but three major jobs remain, the roll hoop needs making (toying with the idea of having that done else where), the diff needs putting in and the rer caliper mounts need making. I tried to tackle the diff at work but we couldn't get the bearings off. This weekend I went to visit an old uni buddy of supra powered capri fame) with a good bearing puller and a height measuring thing and I've nearly ticked diff off that list. Well the difficult part of the job anyway.
First of all I had to make the extension for the height vernier (i'm not actually sure of its name but this seams like a good name). It has to be quite rigid to give repeatable results. I also drilled a hole to mount a dial guage to it as this job requires a lot of accuracy (you only find zero on the dial guage then measure from the height vernier).
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120826_193400.jpg)
Next the flat glass surface was read off as the zero point (turned out it was easily manipulated so that it was exactly 2.5" up the scale), so this value could be sutracted from all the measurements taken. The the original diff measured with its bearings still on. The base up to the CW mount face was measured and the total height from bearing to bearing was measured.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120826_193353.jpg)
I brought along two open diffs (to choose the best bearings from the set) the quaife and pete also had his open diff about with his powerlock out for a change of CWP, so we had for 5 4HA diffs on the side at one point :)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120827_114051.jpg)
Next the Quiafe was measured a millioin times to make sure I was getting it right and it was repeatable, the a load of head scratching and calculations were done, the right thickness of shims put on and the bearing tapped into place, this is the half way point. Then the top bearing was measured to find exactly the thickness of shims needed for the top bearing.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120827_142940.jpg)
And the final assembly I measured and measured and there was no measurable difference between this and the original diff measurements :) :) :)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120827_152214.jpg)
TheQuaife neeeded lots of shims on the bottom (over 4mm), and very few on the top, the bearing stub actually sticks out of the top bearing a little so I have to lathe it back a little before it goes in, but I'm really pleased that this job is ticked off.
More to come
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is the Quaife diff the ATB type ?
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When I got home and tried it in the axle (without the cw on) it didn't turn entirely freely which concerned me slightly.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120829_200309.jpg)
But then I didn't try this with the original diff. With the CW on and the diff back in place, turning the pinion flange seemed to be just as before. I took a torque wrench reading off one of the CW bolts measuring the torque necessary to turn the diff and pinion from this point (4ft/lb), I'm waiting for my buddy to set his up correctly just to check mine is in the right ball park.
It was good to see his axle apart again, we set it up a couple of years back and its been taking a hammering from his 400hp supra turbo engine, and the great news is that everything looked spot on, we assemble it in a bit of a hap hazard way (we've certainly been more careful and accurate this time round with his and mine), so its good to see it standing up to all that torque to well, especially the little spacer in the middle of the diff separating the half shafts.
On that subject, I've taken the diff out and set about measuring up for the half shaft separator that quaife supplied. There's not a lot to see really but I'll explain. you're meant to take an end float measurement from one of the drive flanges and its meant to have 0.15-0.2mm of free movement. In the past I've found this very difficult to measure accurately. So instead I've put the half shafts in with the diff out and used feeler gauges to measure the gap between the half shafts. You can see the little spacer in the middle.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120830_210206.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120830_210211.jpg)
With all the shims removed there was still a gap of 0.65, So I put the bearing retainer on the lathe and took off 0.5mm of material leaving a raised section that would push the bearing slight further into the axle casing and close up that gap.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120830_212441.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120830_212448.jpg)
A lot of fettling later and its now got the 0.15mm gap leaving a little tolerance for the new part wearing in.
Oh and to add tot he job I found that the bearing surface on the inner end of the left half shaft had a lot of wear with small chunks of the surface completely missing, luckily I had a spare lying around with a better surface, I think this is pretty important with the center spacer being so much smaller than the original.
I dug up the old rear brake conversion thread and now have another set of new (i.e. not leather) axle seals on the way.
More to come
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Had an afternoon on the car on the Sunday, the axle is pretty much ready to go back together now, the new seals have arrived, but I'm still waiting to hear from my buddy about how hard it is to turn his diff.
So I took a very long time about making the lower switch panel thingy to house the extra switches. I've put two accessory sockets in as I had both lying around and I thought the laptop might spend some time in the car. The lower switches are for the fuel pumps the upper one is for the engine fan (the ECU operates it, but its nice to have an override) and the push button is to silence the buzzer.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120902_172917.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120902_172843.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120902_172825.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120902_174033.jpg)
As you can see I added another strip of ali lower down to fill the gap left with the rest of the center consul missing.
The Mechless stereo has arrive and some small speaker boxes, there is a phone mount on the way to finish the center dash and a wideband lambda gauge to go in place of the clock.
More to come
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Nice bit of work. The gearlever sits nice on the tunnel, looks like it was meant to be there :)
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Thanks mark :)
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re diffs......
the diff carrier ahouldn't spin entirely free - there is a pre-load on the bearings to find when you install.
In comparison, the diff you took out will most likely not have any pre-load any more.
they're absolutely bomb-proof axles ( I'm just putting one in a car of mine ) - a beam axle version of the Jag diff. Come to think of it, is there a reason why you didn't use a Jaguar LSD ?
Incidentally, I might be interested in a spare cwp off you once I've decided what ratio I need.
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re brakes (rear)
what you doing for handbrake ? The Omega B and Jaguar saloon both use the "handbrake inside the disc" solution which is immeasurably better than a caliper with handbrake.
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Woody,
The scim axle is the very same beam type jag axle, the Salisbury. I bought a powerlock but I've always wanted an ATB type diff for their preferable characteristics (IHMO), and they're a lot safer for the novice driver :) So when I could afford it I went all out and bought one.
I've got a couple of CWP's but like you said, I'll hold on to them for a bit till I'm happy with the gearing.
Valid point about the preload, accept i set it up to exactly match the one that came out, so it must have had some preload. It was rebuild quite recently to be fair.
The inside disc arrangement is obviously the best way to go, but the cosworth disc was exactly the right size for brake balance and the calipers make installation much easier. Plus I've got a hydraulic handbrake to go in the line too :)
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A small update,
Popped the new aerial in the roof last night. Its an amplified aerial and seems to work really well. I've decided to stick with the current CB aerial set up as it worked pretty well and I've found I even grounded it to the chassis when I first put it in so it'll be alright. I bought a cheapy mechless stereo and a set of speakers, which have now been tested and work really well. I got the stereo ISO connection wired in too (obviously).
The stereo plays music loud and clearly off my phone, from the radio and plugging the "ext speaker" from the CB into the "aux in" even works a treat too :) :)
Still waiting on the wideband gauge before the whole dash can go in proper and finished.
I did find one mistake I'd made though, while the CB turns on in the ACC position, the Radio require the key to be turned to the IGN position before it'll work. I'll be changing this!
A couple of the aerial.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120907_062801.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120907_062810.jpg)
More to come.
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This project is a nice updated twist to an old classic. Will be great when finished. My kind of style !
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Thanks mark, i can't wait to have it done
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Updates are a little at a time now, but I got some done in the couple of hours last night :)
Got the wideband gauge through from Latvia (I think), it took a while but it was only £36 for a genuine Innovate one :), it'll go where the clock used to be.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR004.jpg)
Testing it (not connected to sensor so 0v signal = 7.4 AFR)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR003.jpg)
The I left torquing the crown wheel until the diff was in as the diff is very round making it kind of tricky to clamp in the vice. Instead I used a small socket to stop it rotating in the axle casing after the bearing caps had been tightened.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR002.jpg)
And here's the last I saw of the Quaife differential after it was all torqued up the casing went back on.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR003-1.jpg)
And the final thing with discs fitted ready for the new caliper plates to be made.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR004-1.jpg)
More to come
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That's looking very nice. I've used the innovate stuff before, very accurate once setup. I had the data logger too, great for downloading to laptop. It's a good choice of kit there.
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Cheers Mark,
I can't wait to try the "target AFR" function in the ECU and see the results on the gauge, its running mega lean at the mo something like 18 as its just a base map.
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A little update, I had this afternoon on the car and I'm quite pleased with how far I got, although there isn't that much to show for it. I think I'm getting near the point where the dash will all suddenly go together and look good... but not quite yet.
The hydaulic handbrake needed redoing. The first time round I used a clutch slave cylinder from some rover, it worked well but ended up leaking, so I've gone with a wilwood cylinder to it can be replaced in future if needs be. This is how it needs to be all assembled with the bias valve in front (first int he line)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR005.jpg)
I cut the old mountings off and started again and made a little extention out the front to hold the valve.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR006.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR007-1.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR008.jpg)
Now its sat drying with a coat of (rubbish) hamorite on it.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR009.jpg)
Had to do some forceful adjustments to the treads to get the conection between the cylinder and the lever.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR010.jpg)
Put the stereo cage in (in a fairly serious way with fibre fill and all), and drilled some more holes for some extra switches. I'd originally put the fan light and the LPG switch up next the speedo, but its turned out the steering wheel got in the way so they're now down with the other switches in the cetral dash.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR013.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR012.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR011.jpg)
I'm in the process of making a phone mount now so I can play music from the phone through the stereo and use it as satnav mounted in the middle of the dash.
More on that to come.
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Had some more time on the car last night. Finished the hydraulic handbrake and bias valve assembly, it just needed.... assembling and the hose making up to bridge the gap between the valve and cylinder. The hose from the master (the brake pedal one) goes into the bias valve then through the handbrake cylinder, then out the back of this assembly to the rear brakes.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR%20014_zps63ae33c8.jpg)
I spent the rest of the night (nearly) finishing the central dash, I've made up the phone mount and the wires that'll go to the "aux in" on the stereo. The yellow one from the phone for music/satnav/calls, and the grey wire comes down from the CB so the stereo can be used to overcome the noise of the car (they might not hear me however :) ). So this is how it'll look with nothing being used.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR%20021_zps7ae288d6.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR%20022_zpsecf570fc.jpg)
And with the phone mounted
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR%20019_zps6bdb3eea.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR%20020_zps668dc39e.jpg)
Last thing to do is to take all the wires concerned with my added bits and pieces and put them through a giant multiplug connector thing to make taking the dash apart easy in future. Next on the list is another solerthon!
The thought has crossed my mind that I'm spending lots of attention and time getting the dash looking good (well I like the results so far), but the whole car might not work if I haven't got the front suspension wishbones right!!
Time will tell,
More to come
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Are you putting back all the original gauges or will you replace with 'Innovate' equivalents ?
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I'll stick with the originals, i really like the old smiths gauges, almost a shame the AFR gauge doesn't match. The old fuel gauge will be more accurate now as i've put a new voltage stabiliser in. The oil pressure gauge has a pipe rather than wires, i thoight i'd just them all alone for the limited gains and big cost of changing them.
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I should think people are getting tired of looking at the dash over and over. But I got it finished tonight, that it the part that goes in is finished, I've still got to do the soldering on the cars loom before it'll plug in.
So the finished assembled thing with radio, switches (might need to label them) and gauges
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR023_zps2a43994b.jpg)
And the multi plug thingy to make installation easier, (this is the thing I've still got to do on the cars loom end)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR024_zps559849d0.jpg)
I've ordered to LED's to replace the interior bulbs, so hopefully they'll stop blowing :)
More to come
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looking good, what do all the other additional switches do ?
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Starting from the top,
Although the ECU is controlling the engine fan I wanted to put an override in so the top switch is the override and the green light will light up whenever the fan is on (ECU or switch).
The next two down are for the fuel pumps, so they can be turned off periodically when running on LPG.
The push button on the bottom row silences a buzzer while you start the engine, the buzzer is very loud so I wanted the option of being able to shut it up. The buzzer sounds if the water level or oil level is low, and if the oil pressure is low (hence the need to shut it up with when cranking).
The switch in the middle of the bottom row is the map switch for the ECU, I'll have a map for petrol running and map for LPG running. I had previously wired it in with a relay so it would automatically switch maps when the LPG solenoids switched to gas, but they flicker for a while sometimes (presumably some kind of leak check?) and I thought the ECU might not like switching maps over and over really fast, hence the switch.
And as you can see the last one is the LPG switch.
Not sure yet how to go about labelling
A micro update...
I did some of the most shocking work yesterday, I fancied fitting a little switch next to the AFR gauge as it is bright blue and I think it might be nice to be able to turn it off at night. I drilled a little hole and tried to turn it into a slot with the drill bit, that went wrong and its a really messy hole, then I glued a tiny switch in, that went wrong it turns out its on an angle (and did I mention it looks pants), then went to try to switch and the glue had got in :( not pleased. Anyway i've freed it up now and I think I'll stick with it as its so tiny its not a massive eye-saw.
Here's that mess
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR026_zps852e5623.jpg)
Also some of the LED bulbs arrived, you can see one on the far right next to the old bulbs, this will hopefully mean I don't have to remove the dash every month to change bulbs.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR025_zpsfc1ede4d.jpg)
I was on it all Saturday morning and afternoon, but most of that time was absorbed sorting the last few wiring gremlins, the radio now turns on with ACC rather than IGN and retains its memory. And I've wired in another buzzer to sound if the lights are left on, it needs the doors open, the IGN off and lights on before it gets noisy. Thinking about it I'll do one last thing and change it so it won't sound if its on ACC rather than IGN.
The last LED bulbs should arrive soon and dash will FINALLY BE FINSHED, what a marathon its been.
More to come
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Thats quite a few switches to remember ! i think they would look good if you could label them in some fashion. not sute how though
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Agreed, i thought about just writting it on in black marker, another option is to print a shhet with labels in the right place, laminate it and cut out the holes and use the switches to hold the sheet back. I'm prefering the idea of getting the gf to write them on, she's got good hand writting :)
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And it's done :) the dash is together :) :) :) (fingers crossed it stays that way). I've tested everything and it all seems to do what it should so far.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR027.jpg)
I'm not sure if you can see in the photo but I changed the little switch by the ARF gauge for a mini toggle switch to neaten it up a bit. And I decided to just write what the switches do above them, in my best handwriting.
Hopefully picking up some stainless sheet this weekend from the best scrap yard in the country to finish the front of the engine bay.
More to come
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Made a bearing press yesterday, all for about £40, well perhaps a little more if you include discs and welding wire. Hopefully we'll be rebuilding his axle today. I got some stainless steel from the scrap yard to remake the radiator cover and some pipe to take the engines air feed through the cover to cold air.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20120929_195529.jpg)
More to come
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very useful that, bearings can be a right pain on the diy front. getting them out can be a pig, i usually grind them out with the die grinder. Pressing is much better
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Got a cheaky couple of hours in this week (getting less and less time on it now :( )
Finally made a decision about the roll hoop, I'm going to make some strong short pillars and take the car to a local cage maker to make the hoop and possibly the down bars too. Here are a couple of photos so you get the idea what I'm up too.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR029.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR030.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR031.jpg)
I've also got some more metal for making the brake brackets for the rear axle, then that can go back on. This is so time consuming though, and I can't get the lathe fast enough for the small diameters when the hole is small (when going from the biggest drill bit to the boring tool), so I'm blunting the bits. I need to get a hole saw I think.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR.jpg)
More to come.
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Whats the roll bar going to sit on ? is there a chassis member underneath that box section ?
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Yeah there is a pretty study bit of chassis under there, it can be bolted down to the seat belt mount, but more importantly can bolted lower down (out of shot) kind of in the back end of the sill, there are two large holes where the existing roll hoop mounts, I made sure to make them very sturdy. Its hard to explain, but it will all become clear when I get round to doing the work :)
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Had a couple of hours with the car this evening, and I didn't feel in the swing of things really, I was in a "there is so much still to do" frame of mind :(
But I think I made a half decent bit of progress anyway.
I've giving up boring out the brake caliper mounts 5 thou at a time and taken to work where they did all four in a pretty short time. All are the same 79.8mm diameter to slide up agains the back of the end of the axle tubes. Here are a few pics. There are 4 because I'm doing a set for my good friend (Supra powered Capri).
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR008-1.jpg)
Got this Idea from a thread I saw on Scimitarweb somewhere
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR009-1.jpg)
Petes will need to be upright due to the arrangement on his capri
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR011-1.jpg)
and mine will need to be sticking out the front (making bleeding a pain in the arse)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR010-1.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR012-1.jpg)
And thats about as far as I got tonight, all the holes that locate on the axle are done, I gave up at the tricky part of marking up where the caliper holes go.
More to come
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Got a little done tonight, I'm not getting the big chunks of time it needs at the mo, its slow but steady progress (too slow).
Measured three times and cut once, well drilled once actually
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR017.jpg)
Used this one as a template to drill the next, then took the holes out to 10mm (and 12.55mm to take acount of an inaccuracy in the drilling :) )
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR016.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR015.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR014.jpg)
But it all seems superb now :) I'm really pleased with the 1mm ish clearance at the edge of the disc.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR013-1.jpg)
Then I trimmed it down a bit and ran out of cutting discs, so its on hold for a little while.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR018.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR019.jpg)
More to come at some point
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getting there, nice to see the updates keep coming. well done so far. :y
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Thanks Red Baron,
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Looking tidy. What calipers are you using on the rear ?
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After a near rediculus amount of research i decided on the sierra cosworth rear discs and calipers. They should be perfectly matched to the front and the balance should be pretty close for the weightdistribution of the car (there is a bias valve just in case though)
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Chipped away at the brakes again today (not literally of course)
I removed the "hand brake lever ends" from the old calipers and welded them onto the new calipers, and thats about it for today, I'm out of money and now completely out of cutting discs, they're all down to the metal :(
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR021.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR022.jpg)
More to come
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I could run your brake figures through my calculator if you'd like...
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Thanks Woody, I think it might be something like what I've made though. I made a spread sheet with the piston size, the pad height and the disc diameter all considered to give a front back brake bias value, then compared that to the vehicle weight distribution. I did this for a number of cars and tried to get the Scim as close as I could to an E36 M3 (50-50 weight balance). All the calcs are great but I don't yet know the balance of the scim, I've put the battery in the back and all the pumps along with a hefty LPG tank, and a heavier Diff, and the engine is much lighter than the old Essex so I'm hoping its approaching 50-50.
Does your calculator do about the same thing?
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/untitled-1.jpg)
a little geeky right ;)
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yes, sort of.
it goes on to put out the adhesion curves required by the EU for type-approval and to postulate when lock-up will occur at each end, that sort of stuff.
have you started with pedal weight ?
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OOOOooooo sounds a lot better than mine, but I guess it must require the car's weight distribution which I don't know yet.
Did I start with what?? I'm using the standard master cylinder and servo, as the piston sizes are just a bit bigger than the originals. so I should get slightly more braking effort for the same pedal effort if that's what you mean???
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Got a tiny bit done yesterday afternoon, and I'm back at it again today :)
I welded on a little breather pipe so I can attach a hose to go into the car, this way it hopefully won't be sucking in water and dirt.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR023.jpg)
And one of my very least favorite jobs in the world, cleaning up the calipers ready for paint.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR024.jpg)
Its all taking a very long time at the mo and I'm not getting a great deal to show for it, I can't wait to get to the "putting it all together" stage, it seems a lot more rewarding than what I'm up to at the mo.
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I spent a lot of yesterday swapping one of the front hubs ans the new PCD was all wrong, I'd got another one done correctly, but the old disc mount on the back needed turning off to get the ford studs in, and the old bearings needed replaceing with the new ones that were in the duff hub. got that all painted and fitted then went about renewing the seals in the front calipers. Got them fitted to take a sneeky peaky at how they would look, then ran out of time :(
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR002-1.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR001.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR005-1.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR007-2.jpg)
The 282mm discs kind of look a bit lost in the 16" wheels, but they're the right ones to match the rears, I'll stick with them for now and see if they fade when I finally get the car on track (as in track day :) )
More to come (although it'll mainly be cleaning parts)
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Good to see you are making steady progress.
Many jobs are 80% of the work being the preparation and 20% the enjoyable, putting together stage. But once it is finished the results of doing the 80% well make it worth it.
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Yeah it can't be too far off now, I've got a uni buddy coming over soon, we'll do a full weekend on it, with the two of us, we should get loads done.
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Got the brake hose mounts finished off, the axle cleaned down with petrol and painted. Painted one side of the brake brackets too.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR026.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR027-1.jpg)
More to come
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Nice lathe - Colchester Student?
Nicely painted axle too - what paint did you use? I'm currently trying to decide if I should just press the bushes out, clean up and then paint the Jag donor suspension bits for my project, or have them blasted and epoxy coated instead..
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Nice lathe - Colchester Student?
Nicely painted axle too - what paint did you use? I'm currently trying to decide if I should just press the bushes out, clean up and then paint the Jag donor suspension bits for my project, or have them blasted and epoxy coated instead..
Looking Hammerite-ish to me ??? although could be wrong
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A keen eye :) its the triumph though. Its over 50 years old and still going well. The paint is rustolian or something like that its similar to hammerite, its not much cop really, the paint starts coming off a couple of years, it wants blasting and priming really. You should get them done proper, i might do in a couple of years when i know it all works.
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I felt like we made major steps forward this weekend. An old friend came round and we had a good long time working on it at the weekend. We got all of the rear axle assembled, with all the painted brakes and new hoses, and mounted the speed sensor behind the wheel again.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR032.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR033.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR034.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR035.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR037.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR047.jpg)
I'm really pleased I went for blue, I think its a much nicer blue than in the three photos I edited. BUT and its a big BUT it looks awful with the yellow pads :(
Might slap some more blue on the pads, not sure yet.
The handbrake cable took a while to get right and to get the routing right so it wouldn't be too near the exhaust.
Then spend most of saturday night making hoses to go to the rear and generally mounting things in the car. I'm really pleased with how the routing of cables and the brake hose looks going about the transmission tunnel.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLRa032.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLRa033.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLRa034.jpg)
Then we lowered it onto its wheels for the first time (maybe??) but certainly the first time with all the brakes done. I loved seeing it looking low ans sporty again after having been sat high on axle stands for so long. We rolled it back a bit so we could test the Lambda gauge and mess with the ECU settings again without the smoke filling garage (sorry this is yet another photo of the car not really looking that different :) )
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR260.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR263.jpg)
And here's my friend and I looking very pleased with progress (I'm the taller one)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR-1.jpg)
The list of things left to do is getting short! Here it is:
To Do
LPG line
Make Rad cover/inlet tubing
Make Hoop mounts
Paint Pads
Fill and Bleed Brake system
Change Cooler over
Get hoop made
Fit all the fuel gubbins and secure hoses
Fit Propshaft
Fix Shock bushes/ get some better ones
Fit Seats
Rivnut kick plates
Fit New seat belts
Rewire front lights (reduce loom)
Sort Headlights HID/Butcher a modern?
Draft stoppers for door hinger area
Block speaker holes in doors
fog light bulb for rear (red)
Fit polycarbonate rear quaters
Polycarb boot hatch (and stop rattle)
De Chrome some bits???
Fix Mirror glass
Sort Spring/Damper Rates
Smarten up the paint
More to come
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I spent far too long working on the car last night, My head finally hit the pillow at 2am, and here I am, writing at 7am :( but its nearly the weekend.
I got the roll hoop mounts very nearly done. I want to keep the normal seat belts for driving on the the road, and fit harnesses for the track (I've found harnesses to be a bit of a pain on the road at junctions if they're tightened up correctly. I want a roll hoop in the car to supplement the original and give it some real strength if the car was to turn over. So I'm having a proper CDS tubing one made with a couple of bars going diagonally back to rear chassis.
But I wasn't clever enough to think fully about this when I was doing the chassis repairs, so I've come up with these to give the cage guy a solid base upon which to mount the hoop. I can't also mount the seatbelts to these and they will provide a much more substantial anchor for the original hoop (and should strap mount).
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20121108_215205.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20121108_223254.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20121108_224915.jpg)
Hopefully those are self explanatory, the extra bit bolted on the side in the photos below is for a bar to go inboard towards the main chassis rail and provide a little more support.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20121109_002957.jpg)
That bar will be joined to here:
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20121109_005547.jpg)
More to come
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Got some work done today :)
First off, I got the existing roll bar ends trimmed and painted
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR032-1.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR033-1.jpg)
The mounts are all painted up now so I fitted them.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR034-1.jpg)
Then set about making the cross bars that I feel will creat the strong mounting point for the addition roll hoop that I'll have a specialist make (with a decent pipe bender and CDS).
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR036.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR035-1.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR037-1.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR039.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR040.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR038.jpg)
You can see these should form a strong base for the extra roll hoop that'll also be braced to just behind where the rear seats used to be.
I got all the new bulbs in, and tried some "120% brighter" efforts in the front too, they are brighter, thats for sure, but I'm not too sure if they are over twice as bright!!! I'm still wondering about putting the HID's in I'm not sure I want to attract the kind of "just how modified is this car then" attention from anyone in authority, and the HID's might do that?
I'll MOT it with these bright H4's in for now I think,
Here's the front nearly all back together
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR-2.jpg)
Got a second fuel pump in the post, and a load of fitting to get them all in again. The list grows ever shorter. The next biggest thing on the list is to make the SS radiator cover and inlet pipework, then its just a series of smaller jobs :) :) :) :) CAN'T WAIT!!!!
Oh and the propshaft is being made :) :)
More to come
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all looking good. :y
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Aye cant wait to hear the beast start up ... great work :)
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Thanks Guys, I can't wait to have it MOT'd :)
Got a little done this evening, just cutting and shutting the inlet pipes. This is a pain in the arse, I'll not be gutting if I don't have to do this technique ever again!
Buts the basic shape is there. I'll weld these up and smooth out the insides, then weld them into the radiator cover and that'll be another big job off the list.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR466.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR467.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR468.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR469.jpg)
More to come
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Looking good mate - great thread - keep it coming :y
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Thanks DBug
I started of with the Sheet of stainless and gradually bend it here and there and cut bits off small slices at a time, and evenually it was biggining to look alright.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR471.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR472.jpg)
Then made some end pieces
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR473.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR474.jpg)
Then I set the welder up really badly and encouraged it to take a s**t on the work I was doing :)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR475.jpg)
And at the other end too
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR476.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR477.jpg)
Then seam welded it all up, off the car and polished it quickly with the wire wheel on the grinder.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR478.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR479.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR480.jpg)
Now I've got to cut two large holes in my lovely new Rad cover.
More to come
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Nice work , i prefer doing fabrication work myself rather than the mechanical's ... keep it coming . Soon you can have a long rest :)
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Thanks EMD :) I quite like welding just not hte grinding that goes with it.
Got some more done this morning, and I'm quite pleased with how its looking this time.
Cut some holes in the new cover and oval'd them a bit, then put the two tubes in place (with all the cut and shut curves cut off).
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR483.jpg)
Got all the angles right and welding the thing up, I've also found that the old scimitar blower ducting is 83mm and I need 76mm so I've ordered some to fill the gap between the TB and the filter tubes.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR484.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR485.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR486.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR487.jpg)
I'm on the exhausts this afternoon, I'm thinking of making an ali cover that rivets on to shield the hot pipes from the spray off the road, and help reduce the corrosion. (before I can afford the ceramic coating)
More to come
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Hi as a newbie have been trawling thro` various threads and came across this one....what a fantastic job you have done so far, can`t believe some of the things you`ve done and worked out, fantastic read, be really great to see the finished project, well done Sir,
Wish you lived closer to me.....couple of little jobs to do.. :D :D
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Looking good, like the stainless, not easy to weld either.
you're getting closer to completing
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It is all looking good, bet you can't wait to have it finished now you are ticking off the final jobs. :)
Stainless radiator cover looks really neat. :y :y :y
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Thank you so much guys, and thanks a lot for your kind words Acope, Its been a hell of a lot of work!!! I'm getting more and more excited at the prospect of it being on the road, I can kind of feel my efforts on it gathering momentum and the list grows shorter. There are just a couple of fairly taxing jobs left:
Fit the new seats (not too bad really)
and finish the other exhaust cover (see below)
Then its just the little things: fit the last brake hoses, get the camper and tracking sorted, fill some holes, bleed the brakes and clutch etc etc, I'll be buzzing when I get to those little jobs.
Got some more done this afternoon, I'm really pleased with how it turned out too. I spent ages shaping, cutting, trying and redoing all of the previous, to make some covers for the exhausts, as they're not the best quality Stainless, and will have dirt thrown at them from the wheels, so now they are covered with an ali extension of the splash plates.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR488.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR489.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR490.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR491.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR492.jpg)
I'm a little concerned about how hot it'll get in there, the SS chassis leg shouldn't matter too much as its seems to be be a very poor conductor so shouldn't heat up the surounding area, but the firbreglass might get a bit baked, who knows..... I'll put it on the already long list of rather experimental modifications its had.
More to come
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I've had lots of very brief sessions in the garage recently, so progress has been a bit slow. I've been bleeding the brakes like a trooper, and I think nearly all the air is out.
I've nearly finished the second splash guard (but ran out of cutting discs, and money)
So moved on to the fuel pumps, I've got everything needed in the garage to finish these.
I made some little brackets to rivet to the fibreglass and mount the pumps on, the pumps are wrapped in two strips of sticky foam to reduce the noise. The alternative is very costly and these might well have better sound deadening. I also had to make two more 16mm-10mm reducers on the lathe cos the swirl pot and the inlet to the new pump was 16mm :(
The pictures explain the rest really.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20121206_212120.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20121206_212802.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20121206_224906.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20121206_224854.jpg)
I'm really pleased with how it looks, it seems far neater than the original attempt with the two facet pumps and hoses at all sorts of angles (not all the hoses were on in this pic).
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/DSC01367.jpg)
I'll hopefully get some more discs soon (got to spend a little on the car right) and finish the second splash cover.
More to come
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Nice work again lozzzzzz , your getting closer to the finish line now 8)
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Thanks :) it is really close :) got to finish the splash guards and pit the seats in, then its all bolt stuff back on. thing is i havrn't got the prop yet and can't affors it this month, and i quite fancy some gaz shocks too, so i'm eaiting on money at the mo :(
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This build reminds me of the series "A car is born" , ive just watched a few of the series again where he starts off with a shell from a ford sierra then strips it down to the chassis ready for his cobra kit car :)
It will all be worth it in the end ..
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Thanks EMD, I hope its worth the pain, it's done my head in again today.
Got the Splash guards finished today, the second one was a real fighter, it did want to play ball and looks like a pile of poo, it really does look rubbish, but I'm not doing it again, you can hardly see it when its fotted, and it might all need ripping off anyway if the engine moves too much, so it'll stay as is for now. As you can see in the photo it looks aweful :(
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR495_zpsac1adee1.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR496_zpsa9e8259e.jpg)
I also added some extra heat shielding as the photos show but haven't done the bottom of the floor panels yet as there is very little room to go adding more material, so that'll stay on the check it later list.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR497_zps1549ac74.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR498_zps4437b539.jpg)
Then I got really really annoyed!!!!!!!!
I was about to wire up the new pumps of which I'm very proud only to find the swirl pot has a hole in it about one of hte welds and has leaked all ove that area of the car and pulled the paint off again. AAAAAGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHH for ***** sake, can't people be honest, I hate ebay sometimes. If the swirl pot leaks just ******* throw it away, what a **** **** putting on ebay to make £15. Of course I left feedback months ago. I'm so ****** off, can you tell. There is no need to be dishonest like that. So now I've got to find someone who can repair it, or get another one (a third one). AAAAAAGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHH
rant over :(
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Got a few things ticked off the list tonight. The rear brakes are about as blead as I can get them (still seems not quite there, but will see how it feels on the road), but they're back together and mounted properly again, some holes in the bodywork have been filled, and a protective strip has been made and mounted to protect the cable to the wideband sensor that goes under the chassis. Hopefully any debris under the car won't snap the cable now :)
Filling some holes in the negine bay
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR016-1_zps28dd2252.jpg)
And the boot cavity
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR015-1_zpsc1f27e6c.jpg)
Now here ist he cable going under the chassis to the lambda sensor, it really won't reach over the top of the chassis leg :( (perhaps I should have put it in the foot well, it might have been just as vunerable?)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR011-2_zps08e21212.jpg)
And here is the stip made up
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR012-3_zps9b0b1cab.jpg)
And fitted
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR013-2_zpsd5988419.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR014-1_zps28ffe8de.jpg)
Quite pleased with that :)
More to come
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I bet you will be pleased to say at last "no more to come" ;D
Nice work again , all coming together now . Shame about the ebay thing but these things happen , fabrication takes time and a lot of patience :)
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Hehehe, I'm not sure.... its become the parting words to ever post :)
I'm sure like most projects I'll be saying it for a long time after the car is raod worthy.
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Really looking forward to seeing the finished vehicle, its gonna be something pretty special I reckon..
Ionly live a few miles away from the "old" Reliant factory, used to see scimitars flying around most days, but none will ever end up like this one..
not long now..lozzzz :y
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we did actually buy all the bits to make a "factory" Scimitar with the GM V6. Its not best for me to tell you why that was never completed !
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Thanks Acope, I'm really glad folk are enjoying reading the thread, it makes it all worth while on those evenings when it all seems so far off. I'm thinking more and more now that money will very much dictate the end time of the project :( I've still got to afford the propshaft, and the insurance and MOT before it hits the road, and I've not got anywhere near the disposable income I had 6 months ago. It won't last forever hopefully.
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Keep at it mate - sure you'll get it finished - and then appreciate the results of your hard work :y
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we did actually buy all the bits to make a "factory" Scimitar with the GM V6. Its not best for me to tell you why that was never completed !
Oh, you can't leave us hanging like that. :(
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I second that!
Do tell!
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Got a few more things done on the Scim, I attached a load of wire to a couple of relays so the headlights have a juicy feed of 12V, and fitted that up.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR041_zpsb532c4d0.jpg)
And made a little tiny stretch of wiring for the fuel pumps, still debating (in my head up to this point) whether or not to fit an inertia switch. Not sure if it'll be going off all the time with some track abuse.
Then reality struck and I had to do some work on the everyday car. The E36 is running on gas, and runs quite well except when you aproach a junction, dip the clutch, sometimes the engine stalls. I've rebuilt the injectors, and recalibrated (incase there was in inbalance in injector performance causing one cylinder to run lean, more oxy in the exhaust = ECU puts more gas in = too much gas in 5 cylinders, engine stalls). But that wasn't it :( Plugged the laptop in to check the gas pressure and it seemed to be all over the place, so checked the vac hoses and bought a reducer rebuild kit. So this evening I rebuilt the reducer.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR678_zps3ed03a18.jpg)
And refitted it
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR679_zps3a4ca2df.jpg)
And recalibrated it and..... the problem remains :( :( :(
More to come
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Is there anything you can`t do.... :)
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Hey Lozzzzzz,
Great project. And thanks for posting up all the pics. Credit to ya.
Question; Of all the possible choices, why a Scimitar and MV6?
Best of luck for continued success.
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Electrics ::)
Have you seen the price of a restored Scimitar lately :o
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To kill two bird with one stone, i'm useless at thin metalwork repairs, i did a small resto on my brothers capri and within 2 years it was all back, lots of rust showing through, so i'm certainly no good at body repairs, and apparently i'm pretty bad at troubleshooting lpg systems too :(
I'm fairly happy messing about and trying to make stuff faster, so i picked my favourite shaped car and set about making perform (trying anyway). I saw a scimitar when i was 9 and fell in love with it, i got this one with my first years student loan :)
And being fibreglass i should havr to repair too many thin metal panels :)
I love the shape though the shooting brake is awesome, like my other fave the z3 m coupe, the farrai ff is a looker too :)
As for the engine, its a peach, its easy for transplants as it comes with a robust manual gearbox, its very compact with the narrow v angle, and ita the mosy powerful in this sort of price bracket. the remote gear lever is easily adapted for a different position in the project car. the other option is the cossy 24v anf that is a real pain to sort the gearbox out for.
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Personally i envy you , its something like your doing that i have always wanted to do but alas my health wont allow me to . Being able to look at the progress you post is very interesting , as long as your happy with it thats all that counts . Ive lost count of times i watched a car is born , i never get fed up of it :)
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I'm sorry to hear that, i can't imagine how frustrating that must be. good to hear you get something out of looking through the thread though
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Maybe i could build one but it would be a very long build , say 10 yrs or something ;D Having a decent workplace like you have is a big bonus and of course all the tool making equipment . Will be great to see yours all finished mot'd and on the road . Then no doubt you will start a new project .
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I am very lucky to have such a big space to work, I try not to become complacent about it, I am very lucky indeed!
Yeah I've got a few ideas floating around about what will be next. The Scimitar will no doubt require some fettling for the next year or so, then it will obviously need supercharging (goes without saying really).
I'll need a Z3 M coupe at some point, although that won't be a project, that will be pampered.
I'd love to put the M5 V10 engine into something, but its a very very expensive porject. The other idea I've toyed with (among many others) is a bike engined car. Either way the next project will need to be really really fast! :) :)
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Its right what they say though , once you built one your hooked and onto the next . Some builders end up making 3 of the same :-X :)
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I am very lucky to have such a big space to work, I try not to become complacent about it, I am very lucky indeed!
Yeah I've got a few ideas floating around about what will be next. The Scimitar will no doubt require some fettling for the next year or so, then it will obviously need supercharging (goes without saying really).
I'll need a Z3 M coupe at some point, although that won't be a project, that will be pampered.
I'd love to put the M5 V10 engine into something, but its a very very expensive porject. The other idea I've toyed with (among many others) is a bike engined car. Either way the next project will need to be really really fast! :) :)
I hope you're not too tall. ;)
I couldn't fit behind the wheel of my mate's one and I'm only 6'0.5". He said the seat was fully back.. Hmm. maybe he lied. ::)
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I'm 6'2" i really hope i'm not too tall for it, its my dream car, even if i won the lottery thats the first one i'd buy, i'll be very dissapointed if i don't fit.
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I'm 6'2" i really hope i'm not too tall for it, its my dream car, even if i won the lottery thats the first one i'd buy, i'll be very dissapointed if i don't fit.
nah you will still fit in it mate :y :y
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Good Good :) :) :)
I've found a little time over the Christmas period for a couple of short session in the garage, I'll give it a good go next week, but for now a little update.
I'm very grateful of the good folk on the Scimitar club forum for informing me of rivnuts, I bought a cheap tool and did some work with it, but its already way past its best. The SS M6 rivnuts have testing it to destruction, you can see here the bend upper end of the tool.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR047-1_zps1dd69b20.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR045_zpsb33b692a.jpg)
The alternatives (which I clearly needed) are very expensive, but I found this and took a chance on it. It was around £25 on ebay and is Excellent!!!! I can't sing its praises enough, its great value and if you put a small 7/16 socket in the drill its really fast and doesn't end up injuring your wrist.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR048_zpsdc34625a.jpg)
Its also dead small and fits anywhere, if its a really tight space you can use a spanner or ratchet on the tool. It works by simply pulling the wedge shaped piece of metal up the tool.
I did one of the back panels with the new tool then called it a day. Looking forward to finishing these later.
More to come
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Looks like a good simple tool. Reading on Amazon, reviews of the Silverline and Laser cheap rivnut tools, it looks like the cheap ones are made of chocolate! You can use them a few times for aluminium rivnuts at best! ::) :o :o :o :o
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That does look a nice Rivnut tool. I can also recommend this guy:
http://www.memfast.co.uk/ (http://www.memfast.co.uk/)
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I sort of jad a suspision that it woukd be rubbish when i boihht the first one, but you kid yourself it'll be alright (the others are so expensive).
That looks like a serious bit of kit kevin, and not a crazy price really.
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I think the design has changed a bit since I bought mine but the basic principle is the same. Works very well, but, on the down side requires a bit of clearance in front of the rivnut.
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Lozzzzzz, I had just read this thread from start to finish. I am completely in awe of the work you have done and I sincerely hope it all ends well. I will be watching this one with interest. :y :y :y
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Lozzzzzz, I had just read this thread from start to finish. I am completely in awe of the work you have done and I sincerely hope it all ends well. I will be watching this one with interest. :y :y :y
Who are you and where has Esty gone? :-X :-X ;D ;D
But very true ;) ;)
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Thanks very much folks, thats very kind. I'm hoping to get some more updates on next week.
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That does look a nice Rivnut tool. I can also recommend this guy:
http://www.memfast.co.uk/ (http://www.memfast.co.uk/)
I was just about to say that, too .. you beat me to it (by quite a margin, I've not been about much!) - though people report that the smaller mandrels do tend to snap, the guy producing them normally replaces them for free.
The eBay one comes highly recommended on the kit car forum I frequent, too, though :y
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Its been a while. There has been steady progress, but not masses to show for it, so I thought I'd wait till there were a few photos to show.
First of all I cut a couple of panels for the back of the car, just to tidy that area up a bit
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR049_zpsea84e9c2.jpg)
Then before deciding where to put the speakers I had to make sure there was somewhere for the spare wheel to go, as I plan to use the car fairly frequently. There is a nie little space for it behind the passenger. It'll be secured with a rachet strap anchored to the harness eye bolts that will be redundent while the car is used on the road.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR051_zps895b572a.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR050_zps46e00e2e.jpg)
Now the Speakers could be mounted. I made up some alu panels to put behind the fiberglass with rivuts in the alu sheet, this will spread the load a bit as the speakers are a bit heavy to be mounting on rivnuts alone. I'm quite pleased with their location, although it still pains me a little that I'm adding such obvious "ICE" (cringe) to the car. They do sound good though and should overcome the engine noise.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR053-1_zps5682ffc8.jpg)
I was on the home straight with the back end of the car at this point. All that needed doing was a new battery clamp, then it could all be pulled out, cleaned and refitted. I put lots of renforcing in under the fiberglass as the battery is obviously a heavy item and doesn't want to be loose in an accident.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR052_zpsea9377c7.jpg)
As above what could be easily removed was then removed and the interior hoovered and wiped down. A few more brush strokes of garage floor paint patched up some areas and now its all in. I even fitted the passenger seat and will hopefully get the drivers in tomorrow. The windows and boot hatch are now on too.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR056_zpsc1fafb9b.jpg)
The MR2 mk2 seats (as in the picture) will remain fitted and used with normal seat belts for the majority of the time. When I finally make it to a track day, bucket seats will be fitted and the harness clipped in place. I've found driving on the road with a harness and bucket seat to be fun but a pain in the arse.
Its fast becoming apparent that the car will be effectively ready very soon, but won't be on the road for months as the money has dried up for a bit. I've still got to pay for the prop shaft, MOT tax and insure it, and sort the AVO bushes out. I have a plan for the bushes but it still requires more money.
More to come.
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:y :y :y keep up the good work loz absalutly fasjnating thread thanks for shareing with us :y :y :y
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Thanks ozzycat, hopefully another upfate tomorrow if not soon.
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Great , all coming together now most of the hard graft has been done ;) Are you putting sound proofing in it ?
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It does feel like its in the fimal assembly stage :) (the fum bit)
I wasn't going to sound proof it, as i want it light. I realise it is an odd mix now, with loys of weight loss in places and heavy speakers and an lpg tank, the project has taken so long my priorities have changed a bit as time passed. I'll see how i like it when its done and i might end up adding sound deadening
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Another good read lozzzzz, what on earth will we do when its all finished :)
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I bet loz will be building another as stats show once you have built one its onto the next ..
Lots more to come ;D :y
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The Scim will no doubt have some teething problems to sort out, no least the massive problem I've found with the engine..... its not supercharged!!!!
But when its all sweet, I think there will have to be another project. I'm thinking about something very small with a bike engine, its a trodden path though, and I'd like to do something that really turns heads, something not done before....
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How about 2 bike engines.One driving the rear wheels and one driving the front ? A pair of hayabusa engines - 350bhp and 4wd. :)
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Maybe something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fiat-126-Fireblade-POWERED-BY-A-FIREBLADE-BIKE-ENGINE-/170967715242?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item27ce784daa :)
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Both Cracking ideas folks, there is an ultima with two busa engines, looks crazy!
I've got some time to think it through yet :)
More work on the car today :) :) :)
Got the drivers seat mounted and cleaned up a little, very pleased with the results although it only just goes far back enough owing to the fact that MR2 mk2 seats are a little wider in the rails than scimitar ones.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR057_zps113c425b.jpg)
Then I got on with the front stuff, Got the grill fitted with 7 SS M6 nuts and bolts
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR264_zpsd3c8f75d.jpg)
This meant that the Radiator cover could finally be fitted properly with the hoses all connected up.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR505_zps2d3994e4.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR504_zps18d03b9f.jpg)
There were other little tasks but thats the bulk of it
I'm sure there are folk that can relate to this next bit...
Then I spent ages looking at it, sitting in it and making brum noises :)
More to come
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:y
Yeah i use to sit in my escort van in the garage wondering what it would be like to drive , then when i passed my test i bought a bike ;D Wish id kept the van it would be worth thousands now :'(
Nice work by the way ;)
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Thanks EMD
I just put the bonnet on and clean up the hinges when one of the bolts snapped :( I was thinking about how heavy the bonnet is and the thought of doing something about it had crossed my mind more than a few times, well now it looks like I have too do something.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR265_zpse088e172.jpg)
Heres the broken one
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR266_zpsb0055081.jpg)
There is also damage around the one remaining bolt
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR267_zps6d94f11f.jpg)
And the other side doesn't look too healthy either
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR268_zps225b1a49.jpg)
Well I've put angle grinder to GRP and cut the C**p out of it.
The underside was indeed not attached to the top side in the middle and offered very little in turns of strength, only really giving the bonnet more torsional rigidity. So thats gone. It weighs considerably less now too, which is nice.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR269_zpsae7f25dd.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR270_zps11bd2732.jpg)
To start with, and to get back into glassin' I reinforced the bonnet catch area.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR271_zps54d69c5a.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR272_zpsfd7b427f.jpg)
Now I've run out of GRP kit, so its break time till I can get some more.
More to come
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That offcut will make someone a lovely sump guard :y
Still making good progress though :y
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That offcut will make someone a lovely sump guard :y
Still making good progress though :y
;D
I like working with fiberglass , its got many uses and can make a very strong repair . I was planning on cutting out the rust on my wheel arches and repairing with fiberglass but other issues on the car are holding that up :(
I spotted the capri in the background , another one of my favorites . Owned one many years ago ;)
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That offcut will make someone a lovely sump guard :y
Still making good progress though :y
;D
I like working with fiberglass , its got many uses and can make a very strong repair . I was planning on cutting out the rust on my wheel arches and repairing with fiberglass but other issues on the car are holding that up :(
I spotted the capri in the background , another one of my favorites . Owned one many years ago ;)
You have my deepest sympathy
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That offcut will make someone a lovely sump guard :y
Still making good progress though :y
;D
I like working with fiberglass , its got many uses and can make a very strong repair . I was planning on cutting out the rust on my wheel arches and repairing with fiberglass but other issues on the car are holding that up :(
I spotted the capri in the background , another one of my favorites . Owned one many years ago ;)
You have my deepest sympathy
One of the most reliable cars i ever owned , simple to service an not an ounce of rust anywhere :P
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On the subject of "Brum" noises. I often find myself at the end of a big job just sat in the garage on a camping chair drinking tea and staring at the beast. How sad am I?
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On the subject of "Brum" noises. I often find myself at the end of a big job just sat in the garage on a camping chair drinking tea and staring at the beast. How sad am I?
We all do it mate ;)
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I do that sort of thing more often than I'd care to let on. Its the pride in your own work that wells up and leaves you staring at it :)
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GRP never stops boggling my mind, one minute, its one sheet of soggy fibers, next you can stand on it, I really enjoy Glassin'.
So I welded the SS bolts to the SS strips, and glassed them in, then filled over the top with an alu sheet as the mating face for the hinges. ITs all smoothed out now and ready for garage floor paint (when I can afford the next tub).
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR274_zpsc097fe2d.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR275_zps873963d0.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR276_zps2e45d454.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR277_zps098e9894.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR278_zpsb7387aa4.jpg)
After looking at the bonnet for a while and trying to hold it up in the same place that normal bonnet strut does, it seems that it puts a lot of bending stress on the bonnet and it puts a lot of tension on the RHS hinge mounts, which is probably why they cracked to much. So I'm doing away with it in favour of a less glamorous swing down strut. I hunted high and low for something suitable, then as I was about to give up the solution presented itself. A broken golf club, with a very rigid and very light shaft. Its about 1.3 the mass of the original, and while it might look a little silly, I quite like the solution.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR279_zps52bf4f2a.jpg)
I know this is no race car, and I've got speakers , CB, etc, but I'm really pleased that I've been able to shed so much mass from the bonnet to at least offset some of the extra weight I've put in.
Its back to work tomorrow :( , so progress will be a little more gradual for a while. I've really enjoyed cut the bonnet about as it was always niggling at me how heavy it was. Its given me a new enthusiasm to do something similar with the doors. I know lots of folk with race cars have stripped the doors before and added polycarb, but the challenge here is to retain the lowering windows, I like having the windows fully open in the summer so I'll be looking into ways for doing this soon.
More glassin to come :)
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More glassin to come
:y
Something satisfying about glassing , looking good :y
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Thanks EMD
Got a little done this afternoon. Its only a bit of bent aluminium but I got the bonnet stay bracket done. And for some reason the Lathe has started working again and I was able to fix the boot latch.
It seems the lug that holds the boot shut (on the boot lid), is made of some kind of a cheese based alloy, and while it might taste good its pretty useless at being hard wearing. Here you can see the deep groove warn into the side of the lug (after it was cut off).
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR059_zps987fa14f.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR060_zpsa2135faf.jpg)
And the hole that I drilled in what was left.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR063_zpsd779d7ed.jpg)
Then it was a case of turning up a thingy on the lathe and drilling a hole through it, then taking the top off an M8 bolt to hold the whole thing together.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR061_zps9522be0d.jpg)
And bingo, a boot that actually shuts tightly and doesn't rattle :) :) :) (this bugged me a lot before I took the car off the road)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR064_zps8dfffe8a.jpg)
I've had the AVO shock units off to have a look. While trying to free the adjuster I seem to have broken it :( This is the straw that breaks the camels back. After thoughts of trying to redesign the bushes, I think I'll be buying new units from Gaz now. I'm a little worried the same thing might happen again though, it might just be a case of getting the car set up right and covering them in elephant tape or something?
On a side note the E36 works a treat in the snow, with chains its an amazing snow machine :)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR-3_zpsfa69e0ae.jpg)
More to come
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Well I took the doors down from the rafters and stripped them, stared at them for a long time, then bit the proverbial bullet and took angle grinder the GRP.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR065-1_zpsd9ac8fd3.jpg)
A plan is hatching for a sliding perspex window, so a little mass will need to added in that form and a lightweight pulley design to raise and lower the window. But.. the doors weighed in at a heafty 21kg before and 11kg after (add a couple for the addition of the perpex and it should mount up to quite a saving. At least 20kg if the bonnet is included.....
Just to be offset by the roll hoop and side bars :) :)
More to come
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Good weight saving there , be interesting seeing how you put all that back together :y
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Theres a guy out reading way who is using Scimitar chassis and gear for 34 ford hotrod.
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Thanks EMD there will be a lot more standing and looking at the problem before a desent solution presents itself. I'be got to get the polycarb first too.
It seems the scimitar has been used for quite a number of odd builds :)
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I love following your updates.
It seems the lug that holds the boot shut (on the boot lid), is made of some kind of a cheese based alloy, and while it might taste good its pretty useless at being hard wearing. Very funny. I have encountered many such components on my bus. ;D ;D
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I love following your updates.
It seems the lug that holds the boot shut (on the boot lid), is made of some kind of a cheese based alloy, and while it might taste good its pretty useless at being hard wearing. Very funny. I have encountered many such components on my bus. ;D ;D
And cars made in france :( ;D
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Its a pain, I guess they didn't stop and wonder what the parts would look like 37 years later! Or 5 years later in the case of french cars :)
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Its a pain, I guess they didn't stop and wonder what the parts would look like 37 years later! Or 5 years later in the case of french cars :)
:( :( :'( :'( like a sump bolt made of cheese >:(
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With the rest of the cars weight saving, and now the doors getting 'the chop', are you plaiing on just fitting a rear cage/hoop or front cage and door bars as well ?
not only for safety but chassis rigidity
M
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Its a pain, I guess they didn't stop and wonder what the parts would look like 37 years later! Or 5 years minutes later in the case of french cars :)
Fixed. :y
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Thanks Albitz, that was a typo!
I hadn't planned any chassis bracing work really, I was going to fit a rear hoop for safety. I'm a firm believer in GRP, its very very strong, but I can't see the thin pillars around the windows supporting the weight of the car if it flips, so I'm adding a roll hoop in case I run out of driving talent, and when working on the doors (and looking at a few vids of side impacts) I thought I'd better put some door bars in too.
You know what though, you've planted the seed of thought now.......
The roll bar would be there and the support bars onto the chassis further back, and now the door bars too........
But to get real chassis rigidity the door bars would need to of the X type, this means I'd have to fix a bar to the top of the suspension at the front of the car, and that would mean major major surgery, I've have to change to a remote brake servo and completely butcher the bulkhead and inner wing area of the GRP.
I'm not sure a driver of my talent would ever know difference after having gone to a massive amount of effort.
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Thanks Albitz, that was a typo!
I hadn't planned any chassis bracing work really, I was going to fit a rear hoop for safety. I'm a firm believer in GRP, its very very strong, but I can't see the thin pillars around the windows supporting the weight of the car if it flips, so I'm adding a roll hoop in case I run out of driving talent, and when working on the doors (and looking at a few vids of side impacts) I thought I'd better put some door bars in too.
You know what though, you've planted the seed of thought now.......
The roll bar would be there and the support bars onto the chassis further back, and now the door bars too........
But to get real chassis rigidity the door bars would need to of the X type, this means I'd have to fix a bar to the top of the suspension at the front of the car, and that would mean major major surgery, I've have to change to a remote brake servo and completely butcher the bulkhead and inner wing area of the GRP.
I'm not sure a driver of my talent would ever know difference after having gone to a massive amount of effort.
More to come :( It keeps you busy lozz :y
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Did I miss a "More to come" I am very sorry :) :)
EMD I'm not sure I could take this on so close to the end of the project, it would mean pulling lots of hard work apart and redoing lots of things.
There are a number of things on the car that have a question mark over them too, I might have built a very noisy thing that will not handle (the new lower wishbones might be wrong) or that might not be able to move (the experimental clutch plate might not take the torque) or a car that rattle like crap (if the exhausts hit the chassis on hard acceleration). So its defo on the future list but I'm not sure that investing further in the car is a good idea without having tested it a bit.
Please don't stop the encouragement though, these forums fuel the project!
I'll get it road worthy first, put the half cage in and bucket seats, get some track action, then supercharge it, then if it turns out I've made an unstoppable race car then I'll put a full cage in :) :)
More to come ;)
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Well you have done a good job so far lozz , just a case of trial and error then a few adjustments . Like you said get it on the road first 8) Looking forward to seeing it all up and running ;) I cant give any technical advice myself as ive never built one of my own but looks like your nearly there now :)
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Its getting less and less, but for every two things on the list that I complete another one appears.
The list of things to do before its on the road is as follows (in its entirety):
Paint the bonnet and fit it (easy, but paint hasn't arrived)
Put convex glass in one of the side mirrors (easy but haven't got the glass yet)
Finish the doors, cut the polycarb to shape and make a raising mechanism (not easy, still requires a little thinking)
Make some kind of a draft excluder around the door hinge area (not to hard, not sure how yet though)
Fit doors (easy)
Fit new Gaz shock (easy)
Set camber and tracking (need to borrow the tools)
Crimp ends of the LPG line and fit gas hoses (not too bad, need to borrow the tool)
and finally fit the propshaft (easy)
Its a little longer than I thought, but its not far off compared to this time 2 years ago :) :)
There is another list of things before I want to take it on a track day though. I'l hopefully be starting the window mechanism on Sunday if the polycarb arrives
More to come
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I didnt realize its been 2 years blood sweat and tears :o I can just imagine what it will feel like to finally jump in the car for the first time and drive it down the road with "no more to come" not on this particular project anyway . Cant remember did you say you were fitting a supercharger ? Or is that someone elses project ::)
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That's the plan yeah! If it drives well, and seems like it could take a bit more power, then I will supercharge it. I think just over 300hp will be spot on without turning it into a dangerous straight line car.
It won't be straight away though, teething problems first. I CAN'T WAIT to drive it, like you said it will be an amazing feeling :)
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Then there will be what tyres to put on it to help you keep it on the road :y
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All sorted, its shod in toyo proxies t1-r tires all round :)
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One less job to do :) When do you recon it will be on the road .
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That's the plan yeah! If it drives well, and seems like it could take a bit more power, then I will supercharge it. I think just over 300hp will be spot on without turning it into a dangerous straight line car.
It won't be straight away though, teething problems first. I CAN'T WAIT to drive it, like you said it will be an amazing feeling :)
hope you put K-member in to cut down chassis twist-When I built my Rover shell I seam welded body and added box sections inside sills up A/B/C post's across roof-so in affect got built in roll cage' On Replica 32 Ford bodies in GRP I always do steel box frame for safety/strength FibreGlass(GRP) is lighter But flexs and Shatters on impact-
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Its not long now, I'll get the last of the parts ordered on monday, but then its another month until I can afford to tax, MOT, and insure it. I'm not in a mad huurry as the weather is so mental at the moment.
I was putting a half cage in for safety only, but the throught has crossed my mind to go the whole hog and increase the rigidity. Only thing is I'm not I'm a good enough driver to make the most of it, or even to feel the difference.
Hi folks, I thought I'd try something new this time. A friend of mine suggested making videos instead, so I thought I'd give it a go.
I'd love to hear if people prefer the photos and text or the youtube links?
http://youtu.be/0BkQKyKZbGs
http://youtu.be/R-Lb4u8JZcw
http://youtu.be/4O8pyPPXScM
Thats it, please let me know if the videos are a bad idea and I'll go back to photos. I've edited the two videos that are at the wrong angle, it'll just take a while for the changes to take effect. I think I'll concentrate more on keeping the camera pointing the right way next time.
More to come
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I like the vids, but also the pics. :y :y :y
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Personally prefer the pictures because I don't really enjoy youtuibe ;)
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Excellent lozz , im watching with keen interest as my pug window is held up with a block of wood at the minute ::) Videos are great but then again the pics were as well , be good to hear the car running in a video once you get round to it :y
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It runs, I'll get some more petrol and do a video of messing about with the laptop connected. There is a request on youtube too.
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It runs, I'll get some more petrol and do a video of messing about with the laptop connected. There is a request on youtube too.
(http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc143/vmartinjr/woohoo-5.gif)
Look forward to that .
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Pictures for me please :y ....... I got dizzy trying to keep up with the camera ;)
here ...... there ...... here ..... other there ;) ;) ;) :y
But video will be great for when the engine is running :y
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Vids are good mate, but think they supplement the good pics you put up. Keep 'em both coming :y
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as above. :y
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Mixed feedback from the Vids on a few other forums, so I'll stick to photos for the boring stuff, and Add a very exciting Vid soon.
I borrowed a flaring tool and finally for the copper LPG line connected up.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20130129_203102.jpg)
And the covering pipe all connected up
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20130131_211348.jpg)
The engine bay of the copper line is done too, but I got the wrong size rubber hosing to go to the injectors, :( its fighting every step of the way. Still waiting on the grey paint before I can finish the doors and bonnet. Hopefully the prop is very nearly done, they were working on it on wednesday.
More to come
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I was putting a half cage in for safety only, but the throught has crossed my mind to go the whole hog and increase the rigidity. Only thing is I'm not I'm a good enough driver to make the most of it, or even to feel the difference.
A full multilink cage makes a massive difference, you would definatley notice the difference in chassis stiffness
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One day perhaps, If it becomes more of a track tool and less of a road car.
Today was an amazing day! On par with the first turn of the key some 18 months ago.
For the first time in 2 year and 10 months I drove my Scimitar out of hte garage, using Vauxhall V6 power.
Here is the prop shaft all new.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20130202_072010.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20130202_072016.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20130202_072023.jpg)
First of all I have to fit the prop, its a very well made thing, but there was a problem. I might be to blame for giving the wrong info, there was a little raised section in the middle that meant the mating face wouldn't touch so I made up some 5mm spacers to accurately fill the gap as you can see in the photo.
Bolts on the left (obviously), next along is the important spacer, then some other little spacers as the bolts were really long (and I couldn't go buy some shorter ones that would have been too long to wait), and then the mating face of the front of the prop, where you can see the raised section that caused the problem.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20130202_080814.jpg)
After that little fix, it all went together very well.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20130202_090445.jpg)
This is a pretty poor photo, but here it is in place, Its a 3" diameter beasty!
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20130202_090521.jpg)
So here the video of the first time natural light has hit the car in 2 years and 10 months (you might be able to tell from the video that I was quite excited, maybe :) )
http://youtu.be/rQUYmWxcJag
There was no upsetting me after driving the car, but it has come to light that the bigger wheels are too close to the upper wishbones and will need a few more mm spacing out.
More to come
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That's excellent! :y
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Sounds nice Lozzzz,is that a Crapi hiding in the corner? :y
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Nice one mate - good feeling or what :y
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Thanks guys, its an amazing feeling. the capri is my brothers, its a constant reminder that i could loose all my hards work in a heart beat. Its written off, 4 weeks after he finished a major project on it :(
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(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u279/Fooxer/towelwavingsmiley.gif)(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u279/Fooxer/towelwavingsmiley.gif)(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u279/Fooxer/towelwavingsmiley.gif)
Thats got to be a great feeling loz , congrats on that and sounds great :y
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Its been a little while since an update. Having got it all planned out to get the car MOT'd at the start of next month, the BMW went and did something very selfish and run out of MOT itself (a month ago :( oooops). Turns out the insurance is due soon too, so it looks like the Scimitar being on the road will be set back another month. I'm alright with that though really, the weather wil be better (maybe) and I can finish all the niggle jobs properly.
So I know the Beemer needs the Trailing arm bushes sorting (it waggles around a bit and all the front it new so I assumend it was the notorious traiing arm bushes).
I bought a tool and set of Poly bushes.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR680.jpg)
But when I got them apart I found they were ok!!! They aren't new, but they're by no means worn out.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR681.jpg)
I think I'll stick with putting the poly's in though, it should make things better. I eventually found the culprit, one of the upper ball joints was very sloppy, so thats on its way too. When trying to extract it, I managed to dismantle it rather than pull it all out.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR683.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR682.jpg)
On the Scimitar front, The correct colour'd paint has finally arrived and I've put a thick coating on the underside of the bonnet and got the doors off and stripped down ready for painting too.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR070.jpg)
More to come (although it will probable be delayed with putting the BMW back together)
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:y :y :y this is absalutly fantastic lozzz it sounds amazin and anoyher month will soon pass its great to see all your hard work paying off brilliant project ozzy :y :y :y :y :y :y :y
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Thanks ozzy, thats rhe kind of message that fuels the project :)
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Is the colour already on the underside of the bonnet , cant make it out :-\ You wont be the first to mislay your mot , ive done it by 2 months once :-[ local police were very helpful with pointing it out to me ;D but lenient :y
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Yeah the Bonnet is done and taking a while to dry, I did pay it on thick!!
Its strange, this isn't really the place to be telling folk about the BMW, yet here I am posting general garage progress, it might be that I'm justifying my reasons for the slow updates on the Scimitar?
The poly bushes arrived for the E36's trailing arms yesterday, and they are HHHHAAAAAARRRRRDDD, they are really solid! I had to careful not to drop them as they might have cracked :)
I hope they don't transmit a disproportionate amount of road noise.
The removal tool served to squeeze them into place and I took the opportunity to clean and stonechip the whole area. Which was in incredably good shape, they really don't look far off new, which was very pleasing to see as these cars seem to go at the rear arches sometimes. Anyway.....
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR015-1.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR016-1.jpg)
Then with no other parts having arrived I cleaned the doors down and started painting. There are a few difficult to reach areas so I only got the one done, but I'm pleased with progress.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR017-1.jpg)
More to come
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The Propshaft if up for grabs now if anyone wants it?
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR684.jpg)
The gaiter is perished and split, but the sliding joint is in very good shape.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR685.jpg)
Am I alllowed to sell here? I couldn't find the "new topic" button in the for sale section?
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The Propshaft if up for grabs now if anyone wants it?
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR684.jpg)
The gaiter is perished and split, but the sliding joint is in very good shape.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR685.jpg)
Am I alllowed to sell here? I couldn't find the "new topic" button in the for sale section?
You need a few more posts before you can sell mate :-\
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I would have thought the 173 might cover it :(
What is the magic number?
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I would have thought the 173 might cover it :(
What is the magic number?
250 ... as it says in the guide to the forum .... :)
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90684.0
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I would have thought the 173 might cover it :(
What is the magic number?
250 ... as it says in the guide to the forum .... :)
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90684.0
Indeed and, in any case, we try to keep the buying and selling restricted to Omega related items rather than let it descend into a general autojumble (or just jumble!) which would dilute the section to such an extent that it would be less easy to find the parts most likely to be of interest to our membership.
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Fair enough. At least it was an omega part :)
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The last BMW parts still haven't arrived so it was back to work on the simitar tonight :) :)
Got the passenger door fitted and pretty much finished, got to pull the protective film off the window thats all.
Hopefully the picture explains how it works, but if not the blue strap opens the door and the black one holds the window up and simply tied off at the right length to stop the window dropping too low. Its not pretty, its not even that easy to lower the window, but it sure is light, really light, and I'm really pleased with the outcome :)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20130211_202404.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20130211_202422-1.jpg)
More to come (probably a mirror image of the above)
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Fair enough. At least it was an omega part :)
I'm sure that would be allowed if it's an omega part,(once you hit 250posts) ::)
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Had a good day working on the car today. I spent this morning finishing off the drivers door and getting it to close properly, when I had a visit from MikeT, which was a nice surprise :) IUt was great to show the car off to a fellow owner, I can't wait to bring it to shows :)
I then made some shims for the front suspension to get the camber somehwere close to where it should be.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR-3.jpg)
I got it somewhere close then, after looking at the lower wishbone mounts I decided I'd buy some new ones to be sure, so I'll leave the camber as it is for now.
Then I did the tracking with the dunlop gauges I've borrowed from work. I got it to about 20minutes toe in, that should do for now.
Then I moved my attention to cleaning the car. This was a pleasure to do, its been years!
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR280.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR282.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR284.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR285.jpg)
And I even tried the polisher that I've bought, although I only used it with the G3 paste so far, but the results are very pleasing
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR287.jpg)
Hopefully lots more cleaning tomorrow.
More to come
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Looks great and in the best colour , all that hard graft paid off . Well done :y
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Thanks EMD :) :)
I started this morning just after 7am like some kind of mental person, there was one point where I was polishing what looked like runs in the paint, but the polished out really easily, turned out this was ice!!! Am I too keen???
I drive it out of the garage again and started with the Farecla G3 cutting compound and a clarke CP185 sander/polisher.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR288.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR289.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR290.jpg)
Its not like you needed these photos, I guess I'm getting a bit excited again :)
Then I washed it off and it looked like this
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR291.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR292.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR293.jpg)
In the photos it doesn't really look that different, but it was worth my 3 hours effort. Tthe paint is now a lot lot flatter and with very little orange peel effect, so its ready for the Farecla G10 finishing compound now. So round two started, but then I got hungry and came up for my second breakfast... well another bowl of cereal for lunch :)
It looked like this when I left it, about half done:
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR294.jpg)
More to come
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Nice one :y Lovely day for doing just that today , ive even had the shed door open to blow away the cobwebs ;D
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It has been a fantastic day, I've enjoyed today a lot.
I'll try and be brief as the pictures can do the talking (there are enough of them)
I finished putting the G10 on and it was a freakin nightmare to get it off again, it took forever and lots of scrubbing :( then although the paint was very flat it was still a bit dull. So I broke out the autoglim polish and it now looks like this. This is the result of nearly 8 hours cleaning just one car :) but as you can imagine I'm really pleased. There are countless blemishes in the paint, but I'm happy with it looking shiney from 10 feet, thats all I ever wanted really having painted it myself, I can't justify spending lots of a proper respay, I'll be afraid to use it. Anyway its never looked this shiney in my ownership :) :) :)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR296.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR295.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR298.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR311.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR314.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR316.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR321.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR323.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR324.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR332.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR335.jpg)
I was taking photos for a good half an hour.
Its so close now as you can see, I'm still waiting for the Gaz dampers, and I feel I should buy some reinforced lower wishbone mounts and its MOT time.
More to come
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Looks good! :y :y :y Al the hard work is now paying off. :y :y
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Thanks Andy, its been so long with the car looking like c**p its amazing to see it looking its best again :)
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It looks great. I think the Scimitar is one of those cars that has not aged, which shows they got the bodywork styling right. :y :y :y
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Not that I'm bais or anything, but I couldn't agree more. I must have spent hours maybe days just looking at it in my 7 years of ownership, it doesn't get boing, I think its an absolutely beautful shape.
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A fairly inexciting update today.
I called GW and QRG to try and find the thicker 5mm lower wishbone to chassis mounts, and it turns out they are using up the remaining stock of left or right ones (depending on PAS or not PAS) but the other side has run out, so if you want to buy a set one side with will be original Reliant rienforced 3mm thick steel and the other side wll be a newly made part made out of 5mm pressed steel.
With that in mind I think I'll stick with my 3mm rienforced ones.
So Its realy for MOT, just waiting on the Front Gaz dampers to arrive, then I'll book it in.
In the mean time, I made up some draft stoppers. I mae a list before I took the car off the raod of all the niggle little things that needed sorting as well as the new engine etc. and there used to be a bit draft from the lower hinge area on the doors so I made these:
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR074.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR075.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR076.jpg)
More to come
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I fiddled with the car yesterday afternoon and this morning, adjusting ride height and checking wishone angles and camber.
I initially raised it up from what you saw in the photos, to get it somewhere near standard, but then realised that the lower wishbones are pointing downwards quite a lot. The uprights I made put the ball joints a bit lower than the trunnions used to be with respect to the wheel, so this makes the role centre higher, so I can get the car a bit lower without messing up the handling (thats if the lower ball joint hasn't messed it up already). It'll all be trial and error and for now its academic as its still sat on the AVO suspension. The height will need redoing when the Gaz dampers turn up.
I took the SS (and non magnetic) radiator cover off to paint it. Strangly it has started to rust since I cleaned the car so it must be a lower grade of SS, but it is not magnetic.
Anyway while that was off I noticed that the oil cooler leak is coming from the union, result!!!! tightened that up, and fingers crossed that has saved £80 ish :)
Here's the newly painted (well stonechip) rad cover
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR506.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR507.jpg)
I've also ordered the last of the LPG hose covers so that can be plumbed in.
MOT is booked for friday afternoon, a waste of 4 days insurance, but on the plus side I can drive it in myself :)
More to come.
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good luck for friday :y :y
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good luck for friday :y :y
+ 1 8)
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Thanks Ozzycat, I'll let you know
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Thanks ozzy, but its not friday anymore :(
Evening all, a little update is due. The MOT was booked for Friday but.... :( I've changed my mind and will be waiting till the start of April. I'll have more money, I'll have a little more time to finish a few extra jobs, and most importantly I won't have any time this month to fiddle with or drive it, so I might as well wait and not spend any money on tax this month when I wouldn't be using it much. Its a bummer, but what is a couple more weeks after 3 years!
On a lighter note these arrived today, the fronts only at the moment, as the rear AVOs weren't as bad as the front's and money was tight. The rears will be on order very shortly.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR002-2.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR003-3.jpg)
I spent a few minutes with Rivnuts mounting the little fire extinguisher (or however you spell it)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR004-2.jpg)
And the spare wheel arrived today, it appears to have never been used, so I'm quite pleased with £30 delivered :) Anyone guess what its from??
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR001-1.jpg)
You can see I've found another jack too, and made a little modification to it to make it a little more stable. I know where the wheel is going, just got to find somewhere secure (reads no rattles) to put the jack and wheel brace.
On another note, I had a thought regarding the dampers. I'd like to protect these ones a bit better than I did the AVOs so I think I might try and find some covers for them, like water proof canvas or something.
More to come
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30 quid for an LC space saver is pretty good.
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30 quid for an LC space saver is pretty good.
Looks like my wheelbarrow wheel mate ;D ;D ;)
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30 quid for an LC space saver is pretty good.
It's 4 stud Doz. :-\
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My bad. :-[ :-[
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This has taken me a little too long to figure out, but is LC lotus Carlton??
Its from the land of ford!
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A mini milestone today, Got the last of the LPG hoses through recently, fitted them all, one was a real pain in the arse but.... it ran for the first time on gas this evening :) :) all be it like a bag of sh** :) :) :)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR003-4.jpg)
More to come
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Nice one , engine bay looks nice and tidy with loads of room to work :) What are those ally pipes going out to the left wing in front of the BMC ?
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Nice one , engine bay looks nice and tidy with loads of room to work :) What are those ally pipes going out to the left wing in front of the BMC ?
From the position and the filter I'd guess they are the fuel pipes, then back through the inner wing... but I'll await the builders observations :) :)
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Nice one , engine bay looks nice and tidy with loads of room to work :) What are those ally pipes going out to the left wing in front of the BMC ?
From the position and the filter I'd guess they are the fuel pipes, then back through the inner wing... but I'll await the builders observations :) :)
That was my first thought too but thought they looked too big or i need new glasses :)
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Nice one , engine bay looks nice and tidy with loads of room to work :) What are those ally pipes going out to the left wing in front of the BMC ?
From the position and the filter I'd guess they are the fuel pipes, then back through the inner wing... but I'll await the builders observations :) :)
That was my first thought too but thought they looked too big or i need new glasses :)
smallish pipes but covered in that thin corrugated aluminium sheath ??
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Nice one , engine bay looks nice and tidy with loads of room to work :) What are those ally pipes going out to the left wing in front of the BMC ?
From the position and the filter I'd guess they are the fuel pipes, then back through the inner wing... but I'll await the builders observations :) :)
That was my first thought too but thought they looked too big or i need new glasses :)
smallish pipes but covered in that thin corrugated aluminium sheath ??
And that certainly looks like an in-line filter.
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You are all completely......... correct!
The aluminium covers are those found on your omegas, I thought it worth keeping for their heat sheilding properties, and they should help protect the hoses where they go in through the inner wing. (I still need to put a gromit in there really)
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A little update.
I started fitting the Gaz dampers last night only to find the spring seats are too big, and the 2.25 springs won't fit over them. I considered ringing Gaz, but these took 6 weeks to make, so my thinking was, that I can't use the 2.5 inch spring seats so I might as well turn them down on the lathe. The tops I could nab from the old AVO dampers but the bottoms have a different thread (the gaz dampers have a much more course thread), so this evening I did the lathing and fitted it all.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR-4.jpg)
I got the front on axle stands so the front of the car was perfectly level and lifted the rear end from the centre of the axle a number of times to watch the wheels leave the ground, this meant by adjusting the rear ride height on each side I could get the back end level.
This also meant that when the front was put back on the ground any diffences in ride height left to right would be due to the fronts, so I could adjust until the car sat level and at the right height. This isn't quite corner weighting :) and makes the assumption that the weight balance is perfect left to right etc etc.... but its a start, it'll all be apart again when I start the calculations to figure out the correct spring rates.
Oh and I also put sealer around the damper adjustment nob, its easy enough to cut it off and I don't want these corroding like the AVO's did.
I'll mess about with it again tomorrow, but its ready now, it could be driven to the MOT station tomorrow (or a week saturday as the case may be :) )
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let us know how you get on lozz :y :y
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A little update.
I started fitting the Gaz dampers last night only to find the spring seats are too big, and the 2.25 springs won't fit over them. I considered ringing Gaz, but these took 6 weeks to make, so my thinking was, that I can't use the 2.5 inch spring seats so I might as well turn them down on the lathe. The tops I could nab from the old AVO dampers but the bottoms have a different thread (the gaz dampers have a much more course thread), so this evening I did the lathing and fitted it all.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR-4.jpg)
I got the front on axle stands so the front of the car was perfectly level and lifted the rear end from the centre of the axle a number of times to watch the wheels leave the ground, this meant by adjusting the rear ride height on each side I could get the back end level.
This also meant that when the front was put back on the ground any diffences in ride height left to right would be due to the fronts, so I could adjust until the car sat level and at the right height. This isn't quite corner weighting :) and makes the assumption that the weight balance is perfect left to right etc etc.... but its a start, it'll all be apart again when I start the calculations to figure out the correct spring rates.
Oh and I also put sealer around the damper adjustment nob, its easy enough to cut it off and I don't want these corroding like the AVO's did.
I'll mess about with it again tomorrow, but its ready now, it could be driven to the MOT station tomorrow (or a week saturday as the case may be :) )
they sound like they are 2 1/2" spring seats, in which case, why didnt you just buy some 2 1/12" coils form somebody like demon tweeks ?
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A good point Mark, but I already have 2.25" springs, and I plan to stay with them as there seems to be a much great choice of spring rates than with 2.5". I'll eventually figure out the unsprung weight front and rear then do some calcs and buy the correct spring rates to get the car to handle properly, and to get the ones closest to the calcs 2.25 seems the best option.
I appologise if these updates are dragging on little, it feels like the car has been "nearly ready" for ages. I'ts a shame it didn't quite make it a week or so back, but I have still been doing plenty with it. Tonight I faffed on with the ride height some more and really got it right where I want it. The camber looks ok at zero on the passenger side and about 10 mins negative on the drivers side (the book recommends 0-1 degree negative). This little tool has proved very good and very repeatable:
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR005-3.jpg)
Then it was time to fine tune the tracking. Instead of borrowing the dunlop gauges from work again, I decided to bite the bullet and buy the kit pictured below. I can't speak highly enough of this kit, it was just £70 delivered (delivered really fast in fact). It takes about twice as long as dunlop gauges to set up (but we're still talking about less than a minute till you get the reading), but it seem really repeatable and precise. I measured the car three times and got:
13 mins toe out
11mins toe out
and 13mins toe out
So plenty repeatable enough, the scale is really precise and it feels well constructed and solid even if it is plastic. Very Pleased :)
The car is now set at about 6 mins toe in (book recommends zero, so its close)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR003-5.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR004-3.jpg)
More to come
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Both bits of kit look good mate - any links as to where you got them? :y
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Tracking tool was here
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Trackace-Laser-Wheel-Alignment-System-Tracking-Gauges-Toe-in-Out-Tool-Tracker-/300814333955?pt=UK_Measuring_Tools_Levels&hash=item4609ee7803
And the camber tool was here:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MARCH-SALE-GUNSON-DIY-Magnetic-Vehicle-Wheel-Alignment-Camber-Gauge-Tool-Kit-/181107478653?pt=UK_Measuring_Tools_Levels&hash=item2a2ad8d07d
Both Ebay jobs
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Thanx :y :y
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Or one of these for even more accuracy.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DigiPas-Digital-Inclinometer-for-Accurate-Leveling-NEW-/250707735836?pt=UK_BOI_Industrial_Automation_Control_ET&hash=item3a5f58751c
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How does that work???
IT PASSED :) :) :) :)
Its fast!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It passed the MOT this morning, with no probs at all :) I nursed it over there having found it very difficult to map while driving. It was very lean to and from the MOT, so I messed about some more, then it was too rich, but at least I could safely put my foot down. Its awesome, Its really really dam fast. We did a cheaky little 0-60 run and it came out at 5.4s, but I'm allowing for some error here, I'll do a more accurate one later. It reaches 62 in second though, so only needs the one gear change, giving it an illusively quick 0-60.
I found my ear ringing after about an hour of driving it round, it really is very loud in there :( too much really, it'll be ace fun on a track day, but it really is crazy loud for a commuter.
Anyway, that won'y stop me driving it work and showing off :) :)
FUN FUN FUN
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that is great lozzz now you can start enjoying her you could try some sound proofing ib the floor and doors ect just to take the edge off the noise but still great news well done :y :y :y :y :y
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that is great lozzz now you can start enjoying her you could try some sound proofing ib the floor and doors ect just to take the edge off the noise but still great news well done :y :y :y :y :y
Nooooo , best leave the soundproofing out and hear the V6 soundtrack better :P ;D
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it only takes about an hour int he car and your ears are ringing like you've been in a night club, it really is very very loud, there will still be plenty of noise with some sound deadening I think.
Right I've covered a few miles now :) the list goes a bit like this:
Connect Power steering pump (that didn't take long :) )
Sound deadening in the car, on the big flat panels and around the fuel pumps
Maybe a quieter middle box (see how it is after the above)
and I need a new fuel filler gasket.
Every time I floor it (which seems to happen lots) the fuel pushes up against the fuel filler cap and leaks out :( I've seen flames from the exhausts so this needs sorting really.
Let the project continue :) :)
More to come
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Nice work! And a nice link to the tracking gauge there. The bubble camber gauges are meant to be terribly inaccurate though - I have one too for setting up the kit chassis (when I finally get there) and apparently you're better off with a piece of paper with angles on it (essentially a protractor) and a plumb bob ;D
Anyway - very nice :)
Oh and a friend of mine runs a fully stripped MX5 with no sound proofing - he found the only way he could drive it any distance (basically to & from tracks) was either with a helmet on, full can headphones or earplugs ;D
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it only takes about an hour int he car and your ears are ringing like you've been in a night club, it really is very very loud, there will still be plenty of noise with some sound deadening I think.
Right I've covered a few miles now :) the list goes a bit like this:
Connect Power steering pump (that didn't take long :) )
Sound deadening in the car, on the big flat panels and around the fuel pumps
Maybe a quieter middle box (see how it is after the above)
and I need a new fuel filler gasket.
Every time I floor it (which seems to happen lots) the fuel pushes up against the fuel filler cap and leaks out :( I've seen flames from the exhausts so this needs sorting really.
Let the project continue :) :)
More to come
:o
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Every time I floor it (which seems to happen lots) the fuel pushes up against the fuel filler cap and leaks out :( I've seen flames from the exhausts so this needs sorting really.
Let the project continue :) :)
More to come
:o
Ahh. Memories of those days of Weber 45 ownership, when you could illuminate the hedgerows at night with a little blip of the throttle. :)
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Loz, read this thread - 1-25 - this is awesome. big well done so far :y :y :y :y
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:)
I've been using big orange ear defenders for the longer journeys :) I see your point with the camber gauge, I might try measuring the camber again with plumb bob set up. In its defence I have calibrated it every time and its given very repeatable results, I think the major let down is the precision, i.e. the bubble always returns to the same place but its hard to read what the actual camber figure is!
Thank Webby, and others, I'm glad people enjoy reading the progress :)
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With you on the ear defenders. Long journeys in the Westfield can be a bit hard on the ears. I have an Autocom and a couple of pairs of ear defender headsets for that. Listen to music, make phone calls, talk to Mrs. KW. Even have car to car PMR radio. All stuff you wouldn't have a prayer of doing otherwise. ;D
Glad to hear it's on the road in time for summer. :y I bet it's a good feeling after all that toil!
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I see your point with the camber gauge, I might try measuring the camber again with plumb bob set up. In its defence I have calibrated it every time and its given very repeatable results, I think the major let down is the precision, i.e. the bubble always returns to the same place but its hard to read what the actual camber figure is!
Yeah - I looked at mine and thought 'hmm.. that has a wide range!'.. anyway, I like the handy print-outable tool here: http://www.crendonreplicas.com/tools.html
(As it goes, JK's bead former is also an awesome tool - very handy and a damn sight easier to use than a bead roller IMHO!)
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Aye ear plugs are very good at stopping the drone on a long journey ,the ones that look like marsh mallow ;D I use to use them when i did the long haul to scotland on the bike :y
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I've saved the camber gauge sheet, thanks for that :)
Which autocom do you have Kevin? how much was it and will if fit under a helmet?
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I have an "Active 7 Smart", I believe, and a pair of the "ear defender pit headsets". It wasn't cheap - £300+ IIRC.
It may not be a current product any more but they come up on ebay pretty regularly. They are designed for bikers, so yes, helmets no problem at all. You get speakers and a mic that velcro into the helmet, IIRC. In fact, mine would have been a lot cheaper if I'd gone that route. The ear defenders were not cheap, and they are simply Peltor ear defenders with the speaker inserts and a mic boom added. Could have knocked a pair up pretty cheap if I'd put my mind to it. ::)
The control unit has the following connections:
2 headsets
Mobile phone for hands-free (connect to phone or a bluetooth hands-free kit)
PMR / CB etc. Transceiver (provides audio in/out plus signal to key the transmitter when the VOX is activated).
Music input (iPod, radio, etc)
It gives you volume and VOX sensitivity control. When sound into the mic exceeds the VOX threshold, the background music is faded down and you can hear each other and communicate via phone / radio. After a couple of seconds of no activity, the music fades back up and the mics are muted. Sound quality is excellent and it works like a charm, although in a windy environment like a Seven you need to adjust the vox to suit your cruising speed. Shouldn't be so bad in a car without as much wind noise.
I wouldn't be without it on a long journey any more. Really superb bit of kit. :y
Only trouble I've had is one of the mics got a bit crackly after a rather wet tour. Just prised it apart and replaced the condenser mic element for one from an old mobile phone and bob's your uncle.
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Thanks Kevin, I've had a look at some and they do seem to go cheaply second hand, I'm going to try some panel sound deadening, then I'll give the intercoms a go if its still too loud. It means I can bin the the extra mass of speakers in the back if I went with the intercom.
Thanks guys, it is awesome fun :) :)
Thanks folks :)
I had a little look over the car last night after its first 150 miles, Everything seems good on the suspension front, but the gearbox seems to have sprung a leak at the rear seal, so I've got the parts coming, and I'll try and change the seal without anything drastic like taking the back cone of the gearbox off (fingers crossed the flange comes off).
There is a bit of vibration over 90mph, the prop shaft looks god with all the balance weights still in place, I think this might be the re-drilled hubs coming back to haunt me, I'll see what the vibration is like on the rolling road when the time comes. Hopefully that be at the end of this month some time.
It turns out my exhaust pipes are noisy in more ways than one, they like to hit the road and make a loud noise as they do. I've never been completely happy with how low they were at the back of the car, just the look of them really, but thought there was little I could do about it. After having another look, there was room to raise them up by nearly 2cm, heling the look and hopefully the clearance too.
Before and after:
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR323.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/SLR323.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/e3aacbe2-7db6-41e4-978a-e30d186c51f9.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/e3aacbe2-7db6-41e4-978a-e30d186c51f9.jpg.html)
And lastly I'll be reconnecting the PAS pump to the engine and rack shortly, and am now in need of a full set of pipes as I cut mine to bits :(
More to come
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That looks better :) You could always cut them back and have slash cuts coming out the side of the sill :D
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I certainly could :) but then it would be even louder, there would definitely be ear blood then :(
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Got it back on its wheel last night after changing the gearbox rear seal, changing the diff oil and checking it all over.
I found quite a bit of metal in the diff oi, well you know some fine stuff stuck to the magnet, not exactly loads, but I'm not sure if this was from the dust in the garage or from the Quaife diff wearing in, I'm not sure if I've done it too early but I guess I'm happy that that metal is out.
Did some more mapping on the way to work this morning, if you're not too interested stop reading here.
I had tried changing the load sites so there were some really low values of MAP, then I set the fueling to zero, so that it would not fuel on the overrun. I had a suspicion that this was making the car really loud at traffic speeds, so I changed it this morning so it fueled everywhere in the map and now it seems a lot quieter. Result.
I've found with the BMW LPG system, in its history of playing up, it mostly does so just after the overrun (i.e. after zero fueling), so perhaps having the scimitar not do 'overrun fuel cut off' right help the LPG to run better when I get that set up.
I really must upload a video soon, perhaps I'll take one tomorrow morning, or this evening after work if its still light.
More to come.
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I would aim for stoichiometric fuelling everywhere in the light-load areas of the map, including overrun. That should stop any popping and banging, and give better throttle response when you get back on the power.
The problem with trying to achieve overrun fuel-cut in the map is that the ECU interpolates between adjacent cells, so you can't get a clean cutoff. What ECU are running? Does it not have overrun fuel cut feature you can enable?
I run overrun fuel cut on the Westfield (it's running a Megasquirt'n'Spark). I think it cuts in above 1700 RPM with closed throttle for 1 second. It makes absolutely no difference to fuel consumption*, IME, but does add a little bit of engine braking which I find useful. It was quite eery at first with a loudish exhaust because the engine burbles for a second on overrun then goes completely dead.
* - Then again, with 650kg and rubbish aerodynamics, it doesn't spend long on the overrun anyway.
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Its a Canems ECU, small company, but excellent value, I'm not sure if it has the feature actually, I need to look, I just didn't remember reading about it when I'd read the manual so I just went ahead and try to map for it. I put two very low load points in to get round the interpolating thing, so at 7kPa it would be interpolating between zero fuel and zero fuel. But like you said I wouldn't imagine the car will be spending too long on the overrun.
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Its a Canems ECU, small company, but excellent value
Looked up their web site, then dealer list and blow me if there isn't a rolling road about 2 miles from my house that I didn't know was there!
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Folks, A request for an MV6 owner. It was mentioned a while ago, that the good folk on this forum might like to know what power increase the X30XE has made over a standard car. Well my rolling road session is booked for a week today at a place near Gloucester. It was also suggested that it would be a good idea to take along a standard MV6 as a calibration to gauge my car against.
Is there anyone nearby that could pop along and put their standard MV6 o the rollers?
Please understand, I'm just getting an idea if there is anyone up for this BEFORE I phone and ask about it. I'm starting at 3pm and going into the evening, so there is a chance that the chap might not be too keen on doing a power run on another car?
I'm not sure how many members are reading this thread so if anyone knows of anyone else perhaps you could give them a poke.
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You want someone with a 3.0 manual, ideally, as getting an accurate power figure from an auto on a rolling road is going to be tricky.
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Good point Kevin, :)
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Good news, I've taken a video, but I've lost the connection cable so can't yet get it off my phone :(
I've done nearly 800 miles in it now, firstly I found that the gearbox is throwing all its oil out of the back so I assumed it was the rear seal. I've changed that now and still it seems there is quite a lot of oil dripping from that area.
Obviously I was under the car and the evidence looked just like the shaft seal had gone, i.e. oil flung everywhere. When changing the seal I checked for movement and it seemed sweet. I've not been under the car looking up yet this time round, but I can see from the side that there is oil dripping off the chassis in the same place as before so I can assume that at least it must be the gear box.
is this a common problem? I would think the oil is pressed up against the back end of the box a little more now than it was in the omega, but I would think this still shouldn't happen.
is the linkage seal a likely culprit do we think? it is very high up the box, I'm not sure oil would make it that far up?
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Where is the breather outlet?
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Thats a good point, I really need to have another look at this, but I think I'll look for the breather.
An overdue update.
I've found a micro usb cable and got the videos off the phone. We tried a 0-60 on video but it became obvious that my brother was more interested in spinning the wheels and laughing about it :) and its really hard to find a perfectly level bit of road here, but it looks like being somewhere between 5.5 and 6 seconds.
Enjoy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZeZcZZHifc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lq5YiYwJQ5c
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ba3ZPV6I4KA
On another note, I visited Maynards last night for a rolling road session. Martin (I think was his name) has masses of experience with ECU mapping and seemingly carbs too. I told him I was nervous, and he said we'd not hold the engine on massive load for long :)
Then we got to mapping the top end and it was seriously nerve racking, I felt like having a breakdown :) The floor was getting hot from the long manifolds below, the strong smell of hot paint was making my eyes water, the coolant temp was rising, but it held together, no a drop of oil or water below. I was so proud, he seemed pretty pleased with the result and went off to show his collegue the flat torque curve. I was pretty releaved by the end of it, and the power run seemed tame compared to the torture of earlier. Here are the results, ignore the low spike at the start, that was a gearchange.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20130426_200139.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20130426_200139.jpg.html)
There is lots of discussion about rolling road opporators adding a little for happy customers, I had considered asking about this, but I don't think he was really concerned, he described it as a tool for getting the fueling right, and made very little of the end result. You make up your mind about the result.
250ft/lb @ 4725rpm (as you can see)
262bhp @ not sure actually, forgot to ask :(
I'm really pleased with the improvment in drivability, power, the smoother delivery, and the noise. I think it was well worth it :)
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Sounds like thats giving smiles per miles . The noise the noise :o ;D :y
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sounds sweet well done lozz enjoy her while you can :y :y :y :y
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Thanks guys, it did some more smile generating at the weekend when my older bro had a drive :)
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Kevin,
I've done all my sound deadening plans in the car and still it gives you a ringing in the ear after a long journey, so I'm thinking more and more about the intercom idea. The Autocom set you suggested looks like it can be had form eBay at around £30 to £40 and I like the look of the David Clarke headsets, it seems they can be had at a reasonable price too. They include noise cancelling technology too. Would you happen to know if I could connect the Aero headsets with the Motorbike intercom unit? If so would the heatsets still have the noise cancelling feature? Would they need a 12V feed of their own?
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Not sure about DC headsets. I have looked at some other aviation headsets for a friend and the speakers were very high impedance so an autocom didn't drive them very well.
I would imagine a noise cancelling headset does need a power supply. There may even be one available at the 7 pin headset connector on the autocom. I'll have to remind myself how they work.
If you can get any specs on the DC headset you're interested in I'll have a look into it. :y
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Here are the stats for a set I quite fancy:
http://www.davidclark.com/avHeadsetSpecs/avSpecs.aspx?ModelName=H10-30
If its no good, I think I might go down the route you've suggested and make up a set using the motorcycle headsets and some decent ear defenders
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What about reducing the sound level at source....
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Well I've already sort of tried that, I've fitted sound deadening to all panels and foam filled the rear quarter..... oh right! at source! umm, well that would mean fitting baffled exhausts and that would mean less power! Need I say more :) :)
The rolling road operator spoke about oval silencers being a little better than round ones in terms of resonance with panels. The exhausts are only half the problems really, they are the problem at low speeds, in traffic and speed limits, but at high speeds the exhaust note is fine, and road and transmission noise takes over at a higher frequency. I think to really get the sound down to safe level and be able to hear the stereo at a reasonable volume would require a lot more deadening and strangling exhaust arrangement.
All of the above has lead me down the intercom way of thinking. It also means I can bin some more weight from the car in the form of the stereo and speakers.
On another note, I'm pretty pleased with how the car sounds on the outside, its not quiet but its nowhere near as imposing as you'd expect after hearing it from the inside.
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Sounds sweet 8) all finally coming together :y
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Its been dark times for the Scimitar recently, it looks like turd!
I polished the car for eight hours a couple of months back and you can see the results a few pages back, it looked pretty good, but there were a few blemishes I wanted to sort. So the plan was to brush paint over a few chips in the paint and do the whole process again. The blobs of paint went on fine, then I sanded them flat, and this is where it all started going wrong!, I sanded through the paint in a number of places, but the Donnington historic was drawing near so I soldered on and polished it up anyway. But it didn't polish up like before, It wouldn't come up as nice as... tried lots of things.... long story short it looks awful at the moment. And this was the state it was in when I took it to the Donnington historic. While it was nice meeting a load of Scim enthusiasts, it was rather depressing having the only s**t looking scimitar there, it was in no way representative of all the money and effort that had gone into it.
I'm in a better frame of mind now and hoping I can get it shiny again, I've done it twice and its worked once, so I guess I've got a 50% chance right! If it still looks crappo after this attempt then I will be throwing in the towel and paying someone to make my car look nice.
Last night I masked up all the rough areas and sprayed them, I've got some paint left over from when I sprayed the car a few years back.
Tonight I shall pull the masking off and maybe tackle some other jobs then tomorrow start the polishing.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR300.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/SLR300.jpg.html)
I've not left it quite as late this time, with the next show being PPC In The Park at Mallory Park on the 18th :)
More to come
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You know what, I'm just sat looking at the picture, and I don't know why I masked those areas off? the bit near the windows obviously needed masking, but why did I do the other areas, that just created a ridge that'll need flatting down!
Can you tell I'm out of my comfort zone :(
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Tough luck Lozz, but no question spraying for a good finish is a dark art, and if you can afford it, a good spray job is well worthwhile. Keep up the good work, you are nearly there. :y :y :y
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You know what, I'm just sat looking at the picture, and I don't know why I masked those areas off? the bit near the windows obviously needed masking, but why did I do the other areas, that just created a ridge that'll need flatting down!
Can you tell I'm out of my comfort zone :(
Yep get flatting mate plus a quick going over a larger area with cutting compound to blend it all in. Good luck with it :y
Mind you dont go through the paint again ;)
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.....what an inspiring thread! :y
I can only dream of doing the sort of things you've been up to!
What a great car! :y :y
Hats off to you! :y :y :y
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Thanks all :)
I'll be using 1500 grit, then G3 then G10 on it, Hopefully, I'll finish with the G3 today, just leaving another couple of hours of finishing to do in the week.
Fingers crossed it works this time.
More to come
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Oh shame about the paint , ive gone through the top coat before and it makes you cry especially when you have spent so much time trying not to :( just means back to square one , oh the patience of a paint sprayer ::) Maybe you need a break from it , i know when i was doing some cars i wanted to throw spanners at it through frustration of things breaking and generally not going to plan "dam peugeot's" >:( ;D My hands were all blistered for months after hand sanding down a Mk2 escort and paint up my nose every day .. it was a love hate relationship but i got it done in the end . Keep plodding on :D :)
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I can agree with that EMD :)
But I think I'm getting somewhere now :)
Well it was well over 4 hours with the rotary polisher and G3 cutting paste. Its not that rewarding, but there is a flat surface under the crud. I did a cheeky half hour this morning and the wing tops are shiny again :) The photos not great, but you can see the difference between the bonnet and wing top. I'm very releaved, it could be a nice shiny car again :)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR301.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/SLR301.jpg.html)
More to come
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Yep , can see the difference quite well . Nice one :)
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Yep - looking good mate, but did the sprayed bit lower down on the wing blend in ok?
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Yep.... Sort of, I think not masking it would have been a far better idea, the colour match is perfect (being the same paint), but there is still a little line where the masking tape was. And I can't sand any more as it was showing signs of going through the adjacent paint again :(
I'm happy with it so far, its better than the mess it was a week ago :)
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things breaking and generally not going to plan "dam peugeot's"
You reminded me of a couple of French cars I see locally, both have a sticker that says (in the Span-On font):
"Snap-Off
Because it's French.."
;D
Good work on the paint, Lozz, the wing really is shiny now! :y
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Good job symes hasnt seen it , he would rattle can it matt black ;D :y
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I've really enjoyed a productive evening :) I've messed about with the steering some more :)
I've put the pump back on and faffed around with bracketry until it started looking like this, just need to reattach the rack, and get the hoses made up to connect the pump and rack.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20130522_200746.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20130522_200746.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20130522_200927.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20130522_200927.jpg.html)
More to come
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This evening I faffed on, I love "pottering" round the garage! I changed the oil, which took a while, I didn't give oil changing much thought really when I routed the oil cooler hoses tightly round the oil filter, and mounted the LPG solenoids right over the oil filler. Anyway its got some jazzy race oil in now.
And I checked the wheel wobble over lots tonight. The rims are definately true, I tried the space saver wheel and that ran true, the back of the rims also turn perfectly true (that was scary!). It must be the tires. Got a show on saturday so I'll leave it till next week to go make a fuss.
Here are some pics of the show last weekend.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR043.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/SLR043.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR041.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/SLR041.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR030-1.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/SLR030-1.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR029-1.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/SLR029-1.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR028.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/SLR028.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR027-2.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/SLR027-2.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR026-1.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/SLR026-1.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR014-1.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/SLR014-1.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR011-2.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/SLR011-2.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR001-2.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/SLR001-2.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR009-4.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/SLR009-4.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR004-4.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/SLR004-4.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR002-3.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/SLR002-3.jpg.html)
I took the car to PPC in the Park, and it was a great show, for me it was the best that PPC in the Park has been. There was a jet power push bike, the record winning 80mph mobility scooter, a crazy monocycle thing, the 27l meteor engine on home made engine dyno, and an excellent mix of cars. Sorry about the odd selection of photos, I was a little bias :)
More to come
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Great pictures there loz , give me that capri 8) Not everyones taste but i do like that yankee truck on the track , would be a great workhorse . Your cars looking great :y
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Great pictures there loz , give me that capri 8) Not everyones taste but i do like that yankee truck on the track , would be a great workhorse . Your cars looking great :y
I'd absolutely love a Chevy Task Force as a daily (the one in the pic looks like a C/K, it's successor):
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/cb/Camionette_Chevrolet.jpg/280px-Camionette_Chevrolet.jpg)
Oh yes and nice pics loz :)
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Great pictures there loz , give me that capri 8) Not everyones taste but i do like that yankee truck on the track , would be a great workhorse . Your cars looking great :y
I'd absolutely love a Chevy Task Force as a daily (the one in the pic looks like a C/K, it's successor):
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/cb/Camionette_Chevrolet.jpg/280px-Camionette_Chevrolet.jpg)
Oh yes and nice pics loz :)
I know a chap who's restoring a panel van version of that 8)
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It was a cracking truck and a nice owner, it was producing over 500hp and doing 11 something second quarter miles.
Finally fitted the PAS gear now and, hmmmmm..... PAS is so nice. Glad I've got it now, it should make the autotest a lot easier tomorrow if I have a go.
Well here it is ready for its 3rd show:
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR302.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/SLR302.jpg.html)
More to come
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Looks fantastic :y :y :y :y :y
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Looking really good lozzzzzz mate :y :y
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Looking good mate , soon my bumper will look a shiny ::) :y
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You mite have seen this video ... cossie engine :) http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=QY5_T59MceY (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=QY5_T59MceY)
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Many times :) What an awesome car! Wonder where it is now.
Thanks for your comments folks, it got lots of attention at the show yesterday. Video on its way :)
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I took the car to the Modified Nationals yesterday with my friend Peter of Capri fame. My car stood out like a saw thumb, especially as it didn't have any speakers in it at all! :) But it was a good day, the Scim actually got lots of attention, being so different from the rest of the cars there. Pete and I did the auto test right before I left, where both cars got lots of attention. It was just a car park with some cones, but I really enjoyed it. It was the first time I've driven the car against a clock and squealed the tires, was lots of fun, needless to say I didn't do very well :)
I think the fastest time on the day was 21 something and my best time was 23.10. But I had lots of fun.
As I was saying goodbye to everyone an onlooker approached and very kindly offered to send me a video he took, I'm very grateful, here it is.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WlDtRi5W0P4&feature=youtu.be
On another note, the PAS really has transformed the car, Its a different beasty all together, apart from the noise it is a lot easier to drive on long journeys now and there is still plenty of feedback. I thoroughly enjoyed the car yesterday and can't wait to drive it again. :)
More to come
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done a good job there ;) and a credit to you :y well done
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Thanks Noel :)
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Car sounds really nice loz , well done on the time trial :y
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Cheers EMD :) Santa Pod tomorrow, I'll let you know how I get on, hopefully put a video up
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Hi folks, I had an awesome day today :) I took the Scimitar to Santa Pod to try my hand at drag racing. I certainly haven't put the car together with this kind of thing in mind, but thought it would be a great way to enjoy the car till the bank recovers and I can get it finished for a track day. But I had a lot of fun today, it was fantastic and I think I might go again some time.
I managed the following times:
13.9274
13.8746
13.8738
13.9403
13.8120
13.8066
I'm so proud of the car, two hours there, lots of burn outs and drag runs and 2.5 hours back (got lost). The car took a full day of abuse in its stride, performed consistantly, was fast and fun.
I was hoping to Challenge my buddy, but his 400hp Capri was just out of reach, athough only by 0.5s and I totally had him in the first 1/8th mile so I was happy with that having only a measly 260hp. A cracking day had by all!!!!
More to come
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Pretty consistent times mate, improving with attempts. Glad you enjoyed the Pod - used to live about 2 miles from it, and we used to ride the horses up there for a bit of exercise (not on race days though)
Now live about 7 miles away.
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I'd like to live that close, it was over 2 hours for me :(
Finally found the loose screw in the camera and got it working again :)
Here are the pics
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR035-2.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/SLR035-2.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR036-1.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/SLR036-1.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR037-2.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/SLR037-2.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR038-1.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/SLR038-1.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR039-1.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/SLR039-1.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR040-2.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/SLR040-2.jpg.html)(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR041-1.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/SLR041-1.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR042.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/SLR042.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR043-1.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/SLR043-1.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR044.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/SLR044.jpg.html)
There we have it, my arse whooping :)
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Bloody good try though Lozz, well done. :y :y :y
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Good stuff, sounds great too :y
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Can you still buy those side exit pipes like those on the capri .... ?
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Thanks guys :) It was a lot of fun
I think he ordered the side exits from America, summit racing if I remember correct. I'm sure they could be found again, I'm not sure they're what I'd like on my car really, they're a bit of a pain over speed bumps and I like mine being usable really. They do look awesome on a fresh morning when following him, a ploom out of each side when he pulls away from a junction :)
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Nice pictures!
Don't take this the wrong way but you look about 20 years younger than I expected.. ;D
Custom Chrome in the UK could produce sidepipes like that, or Summit in the US (amongst others, I imagine) but as you say, without serious 'relieving' of the floorpan would probably be a nightmare over every speed hump!
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an exelant time had by the pair of you dosent mater that he wooped your arse as long as you enjoyed the day :y :y :y :y :y :y :y i wana go!!!!
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The smile ;D on your faces says it all,its the fun of having a go is what its all about :y hats too you :y
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Thanks guys :) It was a lot of fun, I'd definitely go again. I look even younger without the beard (about 12 :) )
I'm fighting the temptation to put laughing gas in it, but I've got to keep in mind my car is far more useable and far more economical, but I'm not keen on being beaten.
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Thanks guys :) It was a lot of fun, I'd definitely go again. I look even younger without the beard (about 12 :) )
I'm fighting the temptation to put laughing gas in it, but I've got to keep in mind my car is far more useable and far more economical, but I'm not keen on being beaten.
Unfortunately, however fast you are there is always somebody faster, like this Vauxhall owner. ::) ::) ::)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APPiHk8CaNg (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APPiHk8CaNg)
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ah red victor three-worlds most powerful street car :y :y mad as a box of frogs :D :y
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Hmmm, I think that would take some beating!
I'm still fighting with it, to be honest, I might be a little scared of it, especially as I'd need a 100hp of Nitrous to safely beat the capri. I think that might munch the engine pretty quickly.
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A long overdue update.
I've done pretty much half my annual mileage in the car already!!! And the exhaust is doing my head in, Its not leaving the garage again till this is done! I'll be fitting a 1/4 wavelength resonator pipe to each side, with a sliding joint so it can be tuned to the right frequency then depending on the how that is I'm still thinking about pursuing the intercom route.
The other thing is bump steer, hands up who saw that coming after my new wishbones and uprights :)
Well I knew there was an issue from the start, you simply can't make a ball joint conversion without there being one. In a ball joint the steering axis and the axis through the end of the wishbone coincide and they do not in the trunion so I knew I would have to lengthen the track rods to take this into account. I've done all the calcs for this and found they need to be about 6mm longer each side. This is easily done with the steering arms being bolted to the uprights with great big spacers, simply turn the spacers down a bit :)
But what I hadn't though about was that I've make the upright about 45mm taller!!!!! The end of wishbone axis sits 45mm lower than in the original set up, compared to the top ball joint! This makes the 6mm track rod problem look like nothing. You can see this extra height in the following photos.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR008-4.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/SLR008-4.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR007-4.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/SLR007-4.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR006-3.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/SLR006-3.jpg.html)
So after much calculating and trig and so on..... (and the race and rally source book, which is excellent for this sort of thing)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR009-5.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/SLR009-5.jpg.html)
My options are......
*Raise the rack by 16mm and move it back by 3mm and extend the track arms by 6mm
*Lower the track rod ends by 20mm and extend the track arms by 6mm
*shorten the uprights by as close to 45mm as possible and extend the track arms by 6mm
My thinking is, instead of getting further into trouble, I'll take the option that gets the suspension close to the original and choose option 3.
More to come..
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Well now you getting there mate-and welcome to my world-do one thing-alter 3 more :D But reckon you correct in option 3-as you put it.. At least you not dealing with rover p6 suspension(alters camber on travel) :y I found that to make mine quieter inside-fit thicker carpet-it helps
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This afternoon has been an education. I'd done a lot of reading and trig to figure out what I needed to change about the suspension to get rid of the bump steer. I did it all on one side only so I could test both and see the results. The results from the left and right sides both looked the same :(
I was just raising the suspension and watching it though, so I devised a more accurate way of measuring the bump steer. I used the laser from my tracking kit and attached it to the upright in various ways and marked off the path it followed through the suspension travel. I made sure the laser was always pointing perpendicular to the side of the car no matter what the steering angle was and put the target the same distance away each time etc.
I've been messing about with it for hours and have finally figure out what is actually causing it to bump steer. I've lengthened the track arms by 6mm, not a bit of difference. shortened the upright from pivot to pivot by 45mm down to the normal 290mm ish, not a bit of difference, still lots of bump steer. I sat looking at it for hours then thought about adjusting the caster angle, that made a big difference and I managed to get the staight line you see in the last photo on the right.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR011-3.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/SLR011-3.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR012-3.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/SLR012-3.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR013-2.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/SLR013-2.jpg.html)
So it seems the issue of bump steer is very sensitve to changes in caster (resulting in changes in the height of the track rod end relative to the rack), and not very sensative to track arm length.
There is still lots to do in deciding the best place for everything, but I feel like I'm making a bit opf progress and might actually solve it now.
More to come
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Good stuff mate - keep it coming :y
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maybe if you modify the upright-and move steering bar up - I see it is mounted just above spindle height-maybe if you mounted higher-that might help
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Yeah it does seem to be all about the steering arm height, but it seems I can do just that by altering the caster. I did these little diagrams for the Scimitar forum so I'll put them here too.
First is just what I need to do to get round having a ball joint, the second is the effect of altering caster
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Changes.png) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Changes.png.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Changescaster.png) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Changescaster.png.html)
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ideally you want steering rod at same angle as wishbones-also is rack in line with track end-if you looked down at it? or is it further forward-if so -that wont help-and what angle castor are you running-on hotrod chassis I find 6 degrees fine-but that is beam front end-
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Its all standard now, as Reliant intended! The Caster is 11 degree (also now as reliant intended) I'm getting close to having as it should be now :)
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ah good-at least you got factory settings for start-that sure helps :y
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If you want to beat the Ford Capri at Santa Pod, you need to fit one of these v6's into your Scimitar.
http://www.corvette7.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6619524 (http://www.corvette7.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6619524)
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That looks very serious!!!! I would quite like one please :)
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Oh right :) some decent progress today :)
I tried making up some spacers on the lathe, but ruined the last good edge of the last carbide tip and ruined the thing I was making :(
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture003-1.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture003-1.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture004-1.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture004-1.jpg.html)
Then I asked someone at work to do it for me and he made some up really fast :)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture005-1.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture005-1.jpg.html)
Hopefully you can see, there is a tapped hole in each side of the block, the tread in the steering arm has been drilled out so with the offset of the hols in the block the steering arm is up at an angle.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture010.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture010.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture011.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture011.jpg.html)
Now, the bump steer is gone :) :) :) I'm waiting with baited breath to see how it feels (the spring rates are still unchanged so could be well out), but hopefully it'll behave a bit better.
I'm hoping to get that lot painted up and properly fitted tomorrow.
More to come
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What did that poor lathe tool ever do to you, Lozz.. ;D
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Well it let me down by not taking 1cm chunks out at a time, is that really too much to ask :)
Today, I got it all ready for paint and put on lots of stone chip, but first I bent and welded a spanner to get at one of the PAS unions. They've all been nipped up so hopefully will stop leaking.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture013.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture013.jpg.html)
Its all back in place now.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture014.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture014.jpg.html)
Hopefully tomorrow I'll get it all tracked and.... camber'd! then start on the exhaust or intercom, depends what arrives first.
More to come
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Got lots done today.
Got all the suspension back together, set ride height, checked camber, added a shim, checked camber, did tracking, set ride height again, checked tracking, made another adjustment, drove it, made another adjustment to tracking (to get steering wheel in right place) set (*******) ride height (again) checked camber (out on one side), (you've got to be joking) removed the (*******) shim. Its getting there, I've got to check the tracking again as the shim removal will have put it out. To give some kind of an explanation, I can't leave it "close" to what it should I have to get it completely right.
On another note, I got some cool bits through today, I got an Autocom Active-7-Smart as suggested by Kevin, and made up some ear defender type headsets. It works a treat, I'm pretty happy with them :) Thanks a lot for the suggestion Kevin, they seem spot on for the job!
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20130723_203744.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20130723_203744.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20130723_203755.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20130723_203755.jpg.html)
I'm hopefully tackling the 2100rpm exhaust drone tomorrow.
More to come
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I thought I'd take a slightly better photo of the intercom thingy which is working well :)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture002-1.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture002-1.jpg.html)
On the exhaust front, I thought I'd make a 1.4 wavelength resonator pipe for each side, but the materials came to quite a bit of money so being a skin flint, I thought I'd try a balance pipe. The theory being that the two pipes should be completely out of phase and perhaps have a cancelling effect (fingers crossed). Here are a few pics:
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20130724_112525.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20130724_112525.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20130724_112516.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20130724_112516.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20130726_145551.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20130726_145551.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20130726_152141.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20130726_152141.jpg.html)
And guess what......
After all that work........
It made no difference, there is still a 2100 "Drone Zone" perhaps its 2% quieter or perhaps its in my head, or perhaps my hearing is gradually getting damaged. Either way, I'll be ripping back off and trying the more expensive 1/4 wavelength resonator pipe option soon :(
More to come
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I completely forgot to say, the alterations to the front suspension have worked really well, I'm very pleased. The measured bump steer seems to completely agree with how the car feels. This has now highlighted the next weak link in the suspension.
The rear axle seems to spend a lot of time in the air when going over very rough patches of road, the back seems to step out a bit when on the power in a corner. I think this is a combination of things really and just needs correctly setting up. But it doesn't help that the axle is even heavier now, the disc conversion probably weighs more than the drums and the Quaife Differential definitely weighs quite a bit more than the open diff, on top of that the spring rates could be way out, calculating those is next on the list, and the I think I might have got the dampers turned up too much delaying the axles return to the road on rebound.
More to come on that lot.
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I've experimented with side exit exhausts. I'm not mad keen on the look, but I think it looks alright if its done well. My thinking here was that it would alter the length of the pipes and therefore raise the natural frequency right up the rev range where it wouldn't be annoying in traffic. But there was no room for the second silencer, it was far to exposed and will hit speed bumps. I tried without it, but its ridiculously loud at all RPMs then. So I binned the idea and shall simply be living it for a while. After driving it round a little more with balance pipe on, I think it has made a difference, it wasn't just me hearing things, the resonance is a little less. I wonder now whether its to do with the natural frequency of the cab!!?!?
I got the Intercom into the dash yesterday, by recycling a Peugeot Stereo. I reduced the depth of the box, and put a new fascia on it as you can see in the pictures.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture005-2.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture005-2.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture006-1.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture006-1.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture007.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture007.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture008.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture008.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture009.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture009.jpg.html)
Its not perfect (but that's in keeping with the rest of the car :) )
I'm off down the garage to continue the road trip preparations.
More to come
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I've just had it weighed! I'm a little disappointed with the total but very pleased with the balance. With me on board the front end is supporting 660kg and rear 620kg. GIVING A TOTAL OF 1200kg (without the 80kg driver). I think I was expecting it to be a little less having lost the Essex engine, but I have put a load of LPG gear in it.
These number were with the gas tank empty and the petrol tank at about 1/4.
THIS MAKES THE BALANCE 51.6% front, not bad at all :) :)
Next thing is to use the bathroom scales and try to weigh the unsprung weight, then do some calculations and get the right springs :)
More to come
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my rover weighs 1206--- :y :y :y and its metal/aluminum not exploding fibreglass--prang it - it shatters=mate had scimitar-got it killed when it got in a prang :'( But keep at it mate--you will do it
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Wait, the car got killed not the mate right?
I understand they're pretty good in accidents, on that they break up lots( very sad) but protect the occupants quite well (for a classic)
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Wait, the car got killed not the mate right?
I understand they're pretty good in accidents, on that they break up lots( very sad) but protect the occupants quite well (for a classic)
Probably best not too try finding out TBH :-X
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Its been a while and I hope you're concentrating :)
Tonight I've removed the balance pipe I put in and I've welded up one of the holes. I'm pretty sure I'll be making up some silencers of my own now, I'll be looking at copying something like the design of the Flowmaster exhausts I think.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture005-3.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture005-3.jpg.html)
I've finally done the weighing of the un-sprung weight of the car. This was a little tricky even with the simple method of removing the springs and lowering the wheel onto the bathroom scales. The trouble was the friction in the bushes. So I weighed it on the way down then continued to lower the car, then raised it and took another reading on the way back up (the average of the values is the true unsprung weight plus a little extra for the spring). I did this a load of times and got a very interesting result.....
The front unsprung weight was (a massive) 87kg per side, and the rear was less!!!! at 73kg per side. I didn't see that coming (with a heavy beam axle on the rear).
Now there are people who can build cars, and people who can drive them, then there are the rare skilled folk who can drive a car and can feel what alterations need making. I'm not one of them, so I was genuinely relieved to find there are some calculations you can do to get the spring rates in the ball part. Hence the all the weighing. The end goal is to find the natural frequency of the car front and back and bring these frequency figures close together. Here is the page I used from "The Race and Rally Source Book" Alan Staniforth: (If you're interested read between the red bits)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture006-2.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture006-2.jpg.html)
Now to cut a very long story reasonably short, you need to know
Axle wieghts
Unsprungs weights
to find the sprung weights of each corner of the car.
Then the coil spring rates
leverage ratios
leverage ratio ^2
Effective coil rates due to their angle on inclination (a little trigonometry)
to get the wheel ratio
then using the sprung weight and the wheel ratio, calculate the natural frequency.
Which is exactly what I did here:
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Calcs.png) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Calcs.png.html)
The book is a little old but basic physics doesn't change, it suggests that for a road car the natural frequency (in cycles per minute) should be between 60 and 80, then 80 - 100 for a sports car, 100 - 125 for race cars. With the front being between 10 and 20 less than the rear. You can see mine in the sheet above. I was expecting to have to get stronger springs for the rear, but it seems the opposite is true I need to strengthen up the front end to get the balance right (show's I'm not much good at "feeling" what a car needs :) )
The reason the front needs to be so much stronger on Scimitars is the fact that the wishbones weaken the effect of the springs by giving the wheels more leverage of the spring.
I've yet to decide which to buy but I'm thinking 450lb/in front and 225 rear to get the balance spot on.
Hope you took all that in :)
More to come.
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I faffed on this morning and this afternoon doing electric jobs, a diode here and a new bulb there and I put a new hose between the clutch reservoir and the master cylinder. This job has been dragging a little. I got the reservoir and a short length of hose from a civic 'great' I thought, 'OEM quality', 'this must be up to the handling DOT4' but after 6 months use its soaked through and turning the fluid black.
Brake fluid is nasty! it eats all sorts. My buddy is a materials engineer and had a theory that acetylene corrodes hoses in a similar way to brake fluid, so got some welding hose for his car...... it ate through it! Its lunches paintwork hoses even the OEM flexi hoses eventually.
I was nearly at the point of spending £18 on a new Honda part (£18 for 20cm of hose!!!!!). Then tried a hydraulics place. The chap behind the desk reckons the hose he gave me is good for petrol diesel, all kinds of oils and selection of other chemicals, so should be alright. He also gave me a section of nylon line with SS over braid, and they were both Gratis!. I've got with the fuel hose first as its the only one I had clips to fit.
If that fails I've give the nylon one a go.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20130908_155726.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20130908_155726.jpg.html)
Boring story over :)
I've got lots of big jobs to do but I'm just scratching the surface at the moment for fear of the car not being road worthy for the photo shoot at the end of the month. When photos are taken and the car SORN for a while, then I can get stuck into the earth loops, and finishing preparations for the roll hoop to be made, then get some bucket seats and the last harness and it'll be ready for some track action :)
I'm thinking about dropping a cheeky little supercharger in there too :)
I might change the spring rates before the shoot, and I'm itching to get the exhausts changed as soon as they arrive.... Can't wait.
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Sounds like a plan of action and work is in progress to take it to the next level. :y :y :y
Good luck and keep us informed on this interesting and excellent project, from which I have learned a lot on transforming a car with more modern running gear :y :y :y :y now I keep thinking about Omegas and GM 3.6l V6's. ::) :)
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Good plan Rods2, :) I like that plan.
Less thinking more doing, actually lets be sensible...
More thinking then more doing! :)
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I tried these:
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20130912_172012.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20130912_172012.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20130912_172004.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20130912_172004.jpg.html)
No difference, literally no difference. Its my fault I'm faffing and trying to get something not too restrictive.
New idea.....
Does anyone know if the middle silencer on the V6 exhaust system is straight through or not?
Or does anyone have an old one going very cheap???
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Hey, the mid boxes are straight through.
I made a custom v6 exhaust once, put pics on here but can't find them now...
:y
EDIT - http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=45573.0
Photobucket is down at the moment but they should show soon
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I don't think the mid boxes are straight through actually.
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=101482.0 (http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=101482.0)
Quite a bit of baffling and sound deadening in there.
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Kevin, that box is defo not straight through, but I've got a feeling that's not the center box on a v6?
F19LGF I would be very interest to see your photos, but there are none on the thread you've posted :(
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That hose should be ok... It looks like the same hose I use for contaminated fuel ;)
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Kevin, that box is defo not straight through, but I've got a feeling that's not the center box on a v6?
F19LGF I would be very interest to see your photos, but there are none on the thread you've posted :(
Hi Loz,
I've tried tracking down the photos but can't locate them anywhere sadly. It also seems imageshack have closed my account probably due to the fact I haven't logged into it for 2+years!
My ones where like this
http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?start=205&sa=X&biw=1024&bih=745&tbm=isch&tbnid=vCSspL2IWZ_1lM:&imgrefurl=http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/condell-park/other-automotive/vf-ve-vz-vy-v8-v6-commodore-sports-exhaust-performance-mufflers/1009765116&docid=zXVTnlHiJwfpDM&imgurl=http://imgc.classistatic.com/cps/blnc/121119/691r1/9721jc6_20.jpeg&w=800&h=600&ei=uQJGUpbfItCUhQfGjoGgDQ&zoom=1&ved=1t:3588,r:8,s:200,i:28&iact=rc&page=12&tbnh=170&tbnw=228&ndsp=22&tx=68&ty=75 (http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?start=205&sa=X&biw=1024&bih=745&tbm=isch&tbnid=vCSspL2IWZ_1lM:&imgrefurl=http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/condell-park/other-automotive/vf-ve-vz-vy-v8-v6-commodore-sports-exhaust-performance-mufflers/1009765116&docid=zXVTnlHiJwfpDM&imgurl=http://imgc.classistatic.com/cps/blnc/121119/691r1/9721jc6_20.jpeg&w=800&h=600&ei=uQJGUpbfItCUhQfGjoGgDQ&zoom=1&ved=1t:3588,r:8,s:200,i:28&iact=rc&page=12&tbnh=170&tbnw=228&ndsp=22&tx=68&ty=75)
the center boxes were straight through, a tube passed inline with where the exhaust enters/exits, this tube was perforated. the box was filled with a fibre material.
I didn't notice much difference at all (sound wise) once I took my centers out, Guessing they really aid back pressure??
If I find the pics I'll post them.
HTH'd
Rob :y
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Cool, the hose seems to putting up with it so far :)
I like those twin cherry bombs, I should think thats a little loud too :)
If the mid boxes are straight through they would have very little effect on back pressure, straight through boxes tend to attenuate the high pitch sounds from an exhaust (right at the top end) I should think GM put those in for fine tuning of the high revs exhaust note.
I've got a new plan now (another one) all will be revealed soon.
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Did some work on the car, its been a while since I really got stuck in with some cutting welding and painting.
I decided to do a little more work on the roll hoop mounts. So I removed the large box section bits you can see in this old photo.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/SLR038.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/SLR038.jpg.html)
And I've added tops with captive nuts, and a base for the roll cage man to weld straight to reducing the work he has to do and hopefully the cost a little too. I'll do something similar for the base of the diagonal down bars too and the door bars.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture010-1.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture010-1.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture012.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture012.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture011-2.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture011-2.jpg.html)
Now drying
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture013-1.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture013-1.jpg.html)
More to come
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All done and back in the car now.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture014-1.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture014-1.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture015.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture015.jpg.html)
I'm thinking of doing something similar with the diagonal down bars next and even some mounts for the door bars, maybe.
But now the fun is over, I've got to do some work :(
More to come
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I've been trying to make another way of silencing the car a little more for the long boring journeys and this is what I came up with.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture001-1.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture001-1.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture002-2.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture002-2.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture003-2.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture003-2.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture004-3.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture004-3.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture005-4.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture005-4.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture006-3.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture006-3.jpg.html)
Hopefully you can tell from the photos that these get pushed into the exhausts and mean the gas has to take a torturous route to get out. Restrictive yes, but removable too :) The hope was that the gas will have to go up the center of the first section of perforated tube, out through the walls to the surroundings then back into the perforated tube before coming out the back.
Bit like this:
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/untitled-3.png) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/untitled-3.png.html)
But guess what..... it hasn't wo... well its the best thing yet but it still isn't killing the drone.
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Right then, this wire wool is really doing the trick :) . I've no doubt its restricting the hell out of it, but it really has made it quiet :) :) :) :) :) :) :)
And its easily removed :) :)
Its not the neatest, but I now have a direction to head in making something better in the future.
First I cut the ends off, so its a much shorted perforated tube now, and with one blocked end
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture007-1.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture007-1.jpg.html)
Then cut up some perforated ends to stop the wire wool blowing out, I even drilled the holes out in an attempt to make is slightly less restrictive.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture009-2.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture009-2.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture008-1.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture008-1.jpg.html)
Then I went and bought the Co-op supply of scourer's (sp?) and filled up the tubes.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture010-2.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture010-2.jpg.html)
Drilled some holes and popped some rivnuts in and hey presto!
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture011-3.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture011-3.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture013-2.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture013-2.jpg.html)
More to come.
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wont those scourers melt and cause shrapnel to exit ---wire wool burns-only a guess though
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We use to do a similar thing when we rallying. Fail noise test on scrutineering just bung it full of wool. Didn't make that much difference to performance but we running a 1.9 Pug with a 2.5 exhaust so probably had a bit spare capacity. In fact if you turned up with load of wire wool at scrutineering you could make a killing selling it. Nearly everybody needed some!!!!!!! Was a strange on our car. The colder the day the more likely we were to fail noise test. Oh and yes we use to finish the rally with less wire wool than we started. I used a very course wool so loss was minimal but the fine stuff was always flying all over the place.
-
Hmmm, i'll keep an eye on them, i used the course stuff in the hope it would last a while, if not i can open them up and put more in.
-
Hi folks something concerning has come to my attention.
I didn't realise that the R28 box is Rear wheel drive and rated for 280Nm of torque until recently.
I need to change my gearbox as its broken through a non-torque related issue. However as my engine is producing 340Nm of torque I'm a little concern about how long it or the replacement will last. I'm also considering supercharging the engine this time next year.
It was my understanding that the R25-R28 has a bit of a reputation for being a tough one, is this right?
I've never actually read anything about a broken one?
I've got a feeling it'll be alright. I've done drag racing starts on seriously sticky tarmac, so its not going to snap anything, I think it'll just be a case of accelerated wear. If it was designed to do 150K miles with a 280Nm engine, then I can live with the idea of it doing half that mileage with mine or even a bit less.
Do I
replace like of like and see what happens
Or
is there an R30 option which might stand a better chance? Is it a like for like replacement, is it fitted to the 3.2??????
Any info on this other box would be appreciated (if it exists). I'm thinking of buying a 3.2 car for its engine when doing the supercharger conversion so it would be mighty convenient if a stronger gearbox came with it.
-
I don't believe there's a stronger option that is an easy swap. You'd have to go to a different type of box and probably modify the bell housing, etc. However, torque handling in a gearbox is more about what the back wheels can put down. In a small car like the Scimitar I'd say the box will be having an easier life than in an Omega, even with a bit more power. My vote's to keep the R28.
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Thanks Kevin that was the sort of reply I was after :)
-
I've really started ripping into the electrics now, I've made all the changes to the central dash, and all of the bits that needed changing on the drivers side, and I'm in the midst of opening up the bulk of the loom on the passenger side now. I'm basically giving everything that has anything to do with the ECU an earth on the "busbar". And hopefully that'll cure the earth loop problems. I've got a fairly good idea of the problem now, after much reading and sifting through various webpages.
This is the busbar:
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20131025_161043.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20131025_161043.jpg.html)
This is where its going:
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20131025_164104.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20131025_164104.jpg.html)
And this is the mess as it stands at the moment:
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture.jpg.html)
Apart from the busbar, the other changes are to get rid of the Map switch and have it auto switch to Map2 when the LPG solenoids open, bin the fuel pump switches as they have to be on all the time anyway (even when on gas), and add an LPG momentary kill switch. This will serve two purposes, firstly ont he very rare occasion the LPG plays up it'll mean I don't have to switch the engine off to reset the LPG ecu, and secondly (and more cool), it'll give a 20s go on petrol then switch back to gas, good for overtaking when lots of power is needed.
More to come
-
These arrived yesterday, so I'll get them fitted when I'm done with the wiring, then when I can find the time to go get the front springs the handling should stand a chance of being ok :)
I requested they make them 1" shorter this means I can raise the exhaust and hopefully have less exhaust road contact :)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20131104_172935.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20131104_172935.jpg.html)
Meanwhile, the wiring still looks like this :)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture.jpg.html)
More to come
-
This won't pick up pace for about a year yet but the supercharged 3.2 project has officially begun. I've bought a 3.2 engine (with forged crank) and conveniently an R30 gearbox :)
Thing is its completely covered in car at the moment :)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20131109_144727.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20131109_144727.jpg.html)
With the exception of the engine and gearbox all other parts will be available if anyone wants them, Full memory leather interior, Irmscher body kit, SS cat back exhaust, 17" wheels, HID lights, Calibrated dash, Diff etc.
I'll do a proper thread on the parts available when I start taking it to bits though.
Anyway off the garage for more Scimitar wiring.
More to come
-
Nice looking motor you got yourself there... :y
-
That looks to good to break ???
-
That's what I thought driving home for 4 hours, but there is a slight shimmy in the handling and there are small patches of rust all over it, its hard to see in the black paint :( :( :(
Please don't ban me :( I'm going to go into lots of detail tuning the engine later next year.
-
With the exception of the engine and gearbox all other parts will be available if anyone wants them, Full memory leather interior, Irmscher body kit, SS cat back exhaust, 17" wheels, HID lights,
What part of this country do you live Lozzz ?
-
Between Hereford and Worcester in the west midlands.
Fancy some bits? Are you far away?
-
I think im about 120 mile away :'(
-
An R30 gearbox.......are you sure?
-
Maybe interested in some parts when your ready mate!!
EMD, if you need anything I'll let you know if I'm going over and pick them up for you, if that helps? :y
-
Maybe interested in some parts when your ready mate!!
EMD, if you need anything I'll let you know if I'm going over and pick them up for you, if that helps? :y
Thanks BV , ill pm lozzz and let you know mate ;)
-
You have a PM Mr Lozzzzzz
-
Thanks, I've replied now, it often passes me by when I have PMs, other forums give a pop up when you have a PM.
I hoe its an R30! It seems the engine develops 290Nm so it stands to reason that Vauxhall would not fit the R28 as the torque is over that rated for the box.
I'll get under and have a look at the label soon to confirm.
-
Pm sent loz ;D ;)
-
The R number is on the casting :y about 3" back from the clutch bleed screw iirc...
-
You are more than welcome EMD,
The list beggins,
EMD - Wheels
Thanks Al, I'll take a look
-
I got under there this evening, jacked the Omega up and looked at the gearbox. I was initially disappointed to see the R25/R28 embossed in the casting, but I think they have used the same casing and beefed up whatever the weakest link was because there is another plate with numbers and it can be clearly seen that the "unit reference" is R30 :) :) :)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20131112_202345.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20131112_202345.jpg.html)
-
Glad it *is* an R30 and that I didn't sell her under false pretenses! :)
-
I trusted you malc, i won't have looked but it was mentioned on here. To be fair there is precious little info on the R30. I founf info very hard to come by when looking through this and other vauxhall forums and some car builder forums where saab engines have been used. but now i have one!.
The car develops a fair bit more than 300Nm of torque as it is, and will be lots more when the supercharger 3.2 is fitted, but the R30 has the best chance of surviving before i have ezplore other options
-
Wow there is some bad use of English in that last post, I mean WOW!!!!
-
I've finally had a good day on the car, its been a while since I've had a good long sesh in the garage, but yesterday I got all the earth's properly attached to the busbar with crimped and soldered ring terminals.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20131116_142637.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20131116_142637.jpg.html)
The moment of truth arrived as I started the car and attached the laptop to see the inputs on screen. The car started really quickly (not sure if that related really) and the inputs were rock steady, the temp input was the worst and used to jump all over the place by 10 degrees now there is no movement at all, it just stays on one number and clicks up to the next as the engine warms up. BRILLIANT!!!!!!! very happy with that :) I'll get the car mapped again when its back on the road and have the gas mapped properly too.
Next was to change the piddling earth straps for one big sealed 35mm^2 earth strap, I had to take the exhaust manifold off for this which was a bit of a pain, but all went well.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20131116_190633.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20131116_190633.jpg.html)
And then I got round to fitting the new GAZ rear units. GAZ made them shorter by 1" as requested so the axle is over an inch higher on full droop, this means the exhausts can be raised and will hopefully stop hitting the road when I drive through a dip in the road.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20131116_201928.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20131116_201928.jpg.html)
I tried adjusting the exhausts but I'm asking too much by just loosening the clamps and re-tightening in a different position so I'll have to cut and shut them next.
More to come
-
Excellent :y :y ;)
-
Looks like you had a good productive day. :y :y :y
-
Thanks Gents :) a little more productiveness last night too :)
I had a little while in the garage yesterday evening and got the exhausts raised, which involved cutting a small section out, bending the gap shut and welding it up again in SS. The lowest point in now 35mm higher than it was :) .
It look s better too, with the exhaust being just 1cm or two below the lowest part of the chassis now:
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20131119_200208.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20131119_200208.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20131119_200221.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20131119_200221.jpg.html)
Very happy with that, hopefully no more horrible scraping noises and sparks out the back.
Next is to change the clutch reservoir hose again, (still haven't found anything that stands up to brake fluid, next thing to try nylon with SS over-braid, I'm hopeful with this one.
Then fit new front springs, sort the petrol gauge (which seems to be sticking on empty and only occasionally telling the truth), then faff on with the fuel filler cap to try stopping it pressurising the tank, then.... It's ready to be taxed again and sent off for cage making :)
More to come.
-
Nice one , i would have gone the side pipe look but not sure if thats acceptable for mot man nowadays :-\ Looking good all the same ;)
-
I think Mr friendly MOT would have let that through but a short pipe give less room for silencers and noise is an issue, the other thing is catching on speed bumps and generally bottoming out. I've always found side exits to be a compromise unless the sill area is seriously modified to accommodate.
I do however agree that they look cool :) :)
-
These updates are getting less and less interesting, It used to be I've made new suspension wishbone and my own manifolds, well last night folks, in the hour I had working on the car,
I changed the clutch hose... Another job ticked off the list though.
Here is the old one, its turned the fluid black and you can see the DOT4 "sweating" through the hose:
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20131121_192718.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20131121_192718.jpg.html)
Now it looks like this:
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20131121_200751.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20131121_200751.jpg.html)
More to come (hopefully more exciting)
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:y :y
I was behind a white Scimitar last night - I've seen it knocking about New Haw a few times now, but it reminded me of this thread :)
Don't think his has had quite the work done to it that yours has, though ;)
-
Here is the old one, its turned the fluid black and you can see the DOT4 "sweating" through the hose:
:o
And those hoses look relatively new ???
-
The hose was brand new less than 3 months ago! The hydraulics man said it can withstand all sorts of oil!
Thing is I'm not DOT4 is an oil, its a nasty chemical a little different to most of the other fluids in cars.
Anyway I'll keep trying till I find on that can stand up to the DOT4
-
Worth noting :y Wonder if that is the cause of power steering pipes on omega to weep :-\
-
Yesterday was fuel tank day. I had to sort the fuel gauge problem. While I was messing about looking around the fuel tank i noticed a stain that looked as though it had been leaking. It would make sense for a weak point to have been found as the tank had been pressurising. So off came the bumper and the tank.
The bumper was easy, there were captive bolts and other things making it easy that I'd forgot I'd done, and light clusters came off with 4 screws and one waterproof multiplug :) :)
You can see evidence of the tank leak:
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20131123_113302.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20131123_113302.jpg.html)
I pressurised the tank and put soapy water on and found a simgle point leak. Reasonably easy to fix :) I've heard of connecting it to the exhaust of another car to ensure it doesn't blow up in your face so I gave that a go, it worked (I'm still breathing) but it did put a lot of water into the tank from condensation:
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20131123_133616.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20131123_133616.jpg.html)
Its repaired now, all welded up. Oh and the sender problem was easy, the float has a hole in it and was was full of petrol making it more of a "sink". This meant I'd kept putting petrol in the tank worrying that it was empty, so when I came to empty the tank there was s**t loads in there! I look 10 cans to empty it. There was a right panic moment when all four cans were full and I went to put the plug back in, petrol flowing everywhere, all down my arm and I'm fumbling with freezing hands that don't work properly!
Oh yeah I was saying, I robbed the float from the latest Omega :) and grafted in on to the Scimitar sender:
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20131123_150117.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20131123_150117.jpg.html)
More to come
-
Neat trick to deprive the tank of oxygen :y :y :y
-
Moderators,
I've lost a few posts, there was a wanted about the plenum bolt covers, the for sale that I was about to add prices too, and a post in this thread which is MIA. Will these be returning or do I need to do them again?
Thanks
-
Moderators,
I've lost a few posts, there was a wanted about the plenum bolt covers, the for sale that I was about to add prices too, and a post in this thread which is MIA. Will these be returning or do I need to do them again?
Thanks
Everything posted since very early Sunday until today has been lost due to the failure .. TB has done wonders to get back what he has IMHO .. but if its mising now, it will stay missing until you repost .. :)
Info: http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=119731.0
Post #21 is specific about the problem .. :)
-
Bummer, thanks for the info though, I'll do another for sale thread at some point with prices.
For now, all folk need to know is that I'll be stripping the 3.2 Saloon on Sunday morning, its got Irnscher bits. Anyone is welcome to pop along and rob parts, the little trim stuff will go for free, I'd like a little donation to the Scimitar Fund for the Larger parts.
Any help pulling the engine out will be much appreciated.
-
Right then Folks to bring us back up to speed this is the post that was lost the other day:
I've had a good morning stripping the MV6 of everything I could while keeping it running in preparation for the engine removal, the car looked a bit like this when finished this afternoon.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20131201_133523.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20131201_133523.jpg.html)
There is a tiny Pic of my car in the back of the latest PPC Mag :) :) :) :) :)
More to come
-
Writing a santa list out , going to need a bigger shed :D :y
-
What bits you looking for Steve?
-
What bits you looking for Steve?
Anything i can fit in the shed ;D Soon ill have more spares than Albitz ;D
-
Id love to know were albitz keeps all his cars and bits,his shed like the tardis ;D
-
Id love to know were albitz keeps all his cars and bits,his shed like the tardis ;D
On the drive i think ;D Or a shed like what loz has but with bitz scattered everywhere ::)
-
Here's is a picture speaking 1000 words. I'm very pleased with today's efforts :)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20131208_130006.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20131208_130006.jpg.html)
More to come
-
It does , looking good loz ;)
-
Yup was there today,that workshop area is something that most of us only dream about,bit of a shame seeing another Omega being broken up...but there's a lot of good quality bits and pieces coming off the car and I would have liked to have taken more with me, but I've got three sheds bursting with parts and SWMBO is watching me like a hawk so I'm being a bit careful as I think I'm turning into a bit of a hoarder :-X
-
Yup was there today,that workshop area is something that most of us only dream about,bit of a shame seeing another Omega being broken up...but there's a lot of good quality bits and pieces coming off the car and I would have liked to have taken more with me, but I've got three sheds bursting with parts and SWMBO is watching me like a hawk so I'm being a bit careful as I think I'm turning into a bit of a hoarder :-X
;D
All the parts will become useful one day , thats what i keep saying .
I think I'm turning into a bit of a hoarder
Too late for me ;D
Will be going up to see loz soon and looking forward to see whats going on in that tiny shed :D
-
A little update.
The car is booked in for cage fitting in mid January, and I've penciled in the idea of a track day at Bedford Autodrome on the 22nd March. I was nervous just considering it. I've had the car 8 years and been doing this latest major project nearly 4 years, the thought of.... well the unthinkable happening is terrifying, but this was always the end goal so here goes :)
I was working through the list last night and got to the point where there was nothing left to do but change the gearbox (something I've been putting off).
The current GB works, but is the R28, with an apparent oil leak under hard acceleration and a gear linkage problem. I've got the stronger R30 to fit (I wanted this done in time for the track day) and with a fully working gear linkage.
So I studied the new gearbox to try and understand the oil leak problem and its become apparent that it's not a "leak" really. In the Scim the acceleration is rather more rapid than in an Omega and the oil swills to the back of the box, so much so that it poors out of the breather (which is right at the back, see photos). Great design that! Thing is it only happens when the box is more than 45 degrees which must mean the Scim is pulling more than 1G in acceleration in 1st gear!!!
I did a few calcs based on the 0-60 being 5.5s or less and it might very well be pulling more than 1G in 1st gear.... cool!!!
But annoying for the gearbox "leak"
Anyway, here is the fix I've come up with. It saves drilling and getting swarf in the box. It's not ideal but certainly can't make it worse, and it might even work a bit :) :) (I'll bee keeping an eye on the oil level)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20131217_213427.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20131217_213427.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20131217_213436.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20131217_213436.jpg.html)
With the breather extended forward so much it can pull 80G and won't poor out.
After faffing around with that a bit I only got as far as taking the prop off and gearbox mount, so more to come on the gear box change.
-
Perhaps I should add to this and say that the copper pipe will be secured before the gearbox is fitted.
-
Id love to know were albitz keeps all his cars and bits,his shed like the tardis ;D
On the drive i think ;D Or a shed like what loz has but with bitz scattered everywhere ::)
Not any more. Drive is clear apart from my own 2 cars and the spares pile has been reduced to this, half of which I will keep for my self.
(http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff500/Albs59/DSCF1922_zps608703cb.jpg) (http://s1238.photobucket.com/user/Albs59/media/DSCF1922_zps608703cb.jpg.html)
There will be a small closing down sale soon. ;)
-
An update on the project......
I've had a very productive last few days on the car. It got the point where there was little left to do but change the gearbox over for the stronger R30. While I was at it, I took the opportunity to remove the hydraulic handbrake and extend it a little, I also shortened the gearstick and removed any rubber coupling (quickshift you might call it).
Refitting the gearbox was a hard task, lying under the car with the thing on my chest, but its all back together and the feel of the gear change is quite rewarding :)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20131221_200754.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20131221_200754.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20131222_084329.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20131222_084329.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20131222_091301.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20131222_091301.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20131222_084517.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20131222_084517.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20131222_084356.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20131222_084356.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20131222_104545.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20131222_104545.jpg.html)
I'm really looking forward to driving it again soon, there have been a good number of improvements since its first 6 months on the road.
More to come
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A long overdue update.....
I've brought the date forward for the first trackday. It seems its a lot cheaper in Feb rather than March so 22nd of Feb it is at the Bedford Autodrome! Cant' Wait!
The last things on the list are the half cage and the seats. I had the car booked in to have a cage made over a week, this would mean leaving it somewhere for a week! Something I've not done in all 8 years of ownership. More importantly as I'd be at work, I wouldn't be part of the decision making process. I rang around and found that TR Lane could fit me in so I went with the car for a Saturday morning. I was able to hang around, and help a bit, and be part of the decisions. Much happier with that. As an added bonus he cut and bent the tubes, and welded the hoop only in, and I'll be doing the rest of the welding and painting :) :) :) Much better! And Much MUCH CHEAPER :) :) :) (all the following for £150).
So here is what I had after my visit
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20140104_165053.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20140104_165053.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20140104_165107.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20140104_165107.jpg.html)
And the other bits
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20140105_081644.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20140105_081644.jpg.html)
I'm really pleased, there is a bit of a gap either side to accommodate the seat belt but its snug against the roof. There will be two rear stays and one cross bar in the main hoop. The rear stays will be attached using a method he suggested. This starts with a welded in washer in an offcut of the tube. (then I faced it up of the lathe).
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20140105_090025.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20140105_090025.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20140105_090139.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20140105_090139.jpg.html)
And they will be bolted to the chassis like this
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20140105_090216.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20140105_090216.jpg.html)
The finished mount will be of this style
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/ggff.png) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/ggff.png.html)
I also finally got round to fitting a little box in the center for sun glasses and such.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20140105_081622.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20140105_081622.jpg.html)
That's all for now, lots of welding to do now and hopefully fitting of bucket seats. Talking of which I need some seat runners if anyone has any.
More to come
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Excellent progress Loz and looking really nice ;)
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Thanks Buddy :)
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I finished off the "fish mouth" joints last night and got it all welded up, just waiting for the paint to arrive then I'll paint and put it back in. I did a fair bit of tack welding in situ and then took my time to do little sections at a time, but I'm still dreading putting it back in, I bed its all warped to hell. Watch this space.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20140109_191109.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20140109_191109.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20140109_191130.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20140109_191130.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20140109_195512.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20140109_195512.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20140109_205901.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20140109_205901.jpg.html)
More to come.
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Its all painted now, stone chip is great for this sort of thing, its really tough and leaves a functional looking finish.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20140110_165620.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20140110_165620.jpg.html)
I was very surprised when it went back in without any drama, I could even get all the bolts in by hand :) no ratchet straps needed.
More to co
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Had the evening on the car last night but didn't actually get that much done (spent most of it on the phone).
I thought this might be of interest to some folk.
You know how you spend lots of money on adjustable suspension. Its normally good quality stuff but hasn't had much attention in the corrosion prevention department. After just a few years of reasonably regular use you can kiss the threads goodbye and the adjusters might even be seized too.
I've got a plan.
I've bought some "layflat" plastic tubing that you might imagine a curtain rail to be wrapped in, except this is the thickest I can find. Its 0.25mm thick, similar to the that blue sheet you lay down in building foundations.
First I cleaned the units up, and copper greased the threads,
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20140123_182445.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20140123_182445.jpg.html)
Then I put lots of sealer round the neck
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20140123_195229.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20140123_195229.jpg.html)
Then cut an appropriate length of layflat (I had to buy 82m of the stuff :( )
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20140123_182457.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20140123_182457.jpg.html)
And cable tie it tight around the top ensuring the sealer goes into all the creases in the plastic
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20140123_183248.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20140123_183248.jpg.html)
The length is about as long as the unit, so will be longer than necessary when the suspension compresses. It sits loosely around the bottom end and should stop the majority of road muck from getting to the damper spring assembly :)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20140123_183255.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20140123_183255.jpg.html)
Refit and repeat
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20140123_193600.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20140123_193600.jpg.html)
I only got three done, but I'll be done tonight and will be able to drive the car in all weather and not sorry about ruining my expensive new GAZ dampers :)
More to come
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Ingenuity :D :y Wont that plastic tare though in time :-\ Great progress , ive used something called stove enamel or similar , its what they use on cookers to great effect .. ive used on motorcycle downpipes and it never comes off :o
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great work mate, I've seen the below used for the same reason before - maybe a consideration should your 'lay-flat' not hold up?
Regards
Rob
http://www.hilltop-products.co.uk/heat-shrink-tubing-range/heat-shrink-non-polyolefin-specialist/fep-heat-shrinkable-sleeves/fep-93-80.html
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Yeah the plastic isn't exactly bomb proof, but it's pretty thick, you can't tear it by hand. Thing is I had to buy 82m of the stuff, so if it seems to be working then gets damaged I've for a little left over :)
The shrink wrap is another good plan, I'll keep it in mind should this not work out.
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That'll be a handful on a frosty morning ;D
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There has been steady progress made over the last few weeks.
I look the wheels back for re-balancing as there is a vibration at high speed, £20 later there was no difference :(
The track is 3.8 miles long and should suit the car quiet well, but there will be lots of time spent above 80mph, so this vibration will inevitably damage something. So I took the propshaft off and asked the chap who mate it to check the balance for me. It's hard not to sound rude asking someone to re-check their work, but I'm glad I did. He found that the prop was slightly bent!!!!!
I can't recommend Proptech near Kidderminster enough, they're excellent! Derek (of proptech) made the prop up near enough from scratch for under £150 (I think it might have been £120?). This time he checked it, straightened it, re-balanced it, and repainted it for...... free!
(he didn't repaint the damage so I could see where it was under the car)
I'd like to think I'm reasonably thorough with this sort of thing, but it turns out the oversize propshaft was hitting the extended handbrake bracket with the suspension is fully compressed. :(
So I chopped it about a bit and as the photos show it now clears the handbrake bracket all the way through the suspension travel. :)
Tested the car and no vibration, its super smooth all the way up to a high speeds.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20140214_153757.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20140214_153757.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20140216_113547.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20140216_113547.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20140216_121444.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20140216_121444.jpg.html)
I slapped some paint on it then to see if there are any witness marks later on.
I also said goodbye to the second omega around Christmas time. I think the 3.2 engine, stronger gearbox and shed load of other spares ended up costing between £200 and £300 after selling and scrapping the remainder of the car :) must'n grumble!
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20140125_095542.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20140125_095542.jpg.html)
I'm very excited and very worried about the trackday which is less than a week away. It's so much harder on the car than anything it's done so far. I've got a list of things that could go wrong in my head.
There are fewer people coming now than I thought, but its probably a good thing as Bedford isn't that great for onlookers really.
All the bucket seats and harnesses are now in. I've just got to change the diff oil once again and clean the car and it should be ready. :) :( :) :( :)
More to come
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Exciting stuff :y
Can't believe you binned the old one with the wheels though :o Everyone and their dfog seems to be after a set ::)
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I sold those to a member don't worry. It was a good job the crane struggled and got stuck in that position for ages (the electrics in the lorry wouldn't let the crane lower cos of the weight). Then I remember I had to take the wheels off.
Close call! :) :)
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I sold those to a member don't worry. It was a good job the crane struggled and got stuck in that position for ages (the electrics in the lorry wouldn't let the crane lower cos of the weight). Then I remember I had to take the wheels off.
Close call! :) :)
;D :y
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Excellent update. Thanks :y
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Well then, a much needed update folks.
The trackday at Bedford went really really well, in fact I can't believe how well it went. It got me there with no hassle, did a full track and got me 2 and a half hours home too.
It managed 118mph but we subsequently limited ourselves to 110mph as there was a fair bit of vibration near 120mph.
It burnt its way through £125 of fuel on the track alone
It covered 250 miles on track alone
And I'm confident in saying it was the single most used car of the day.
My two brothers and I drove the car, it came into the pits, was left running while we swapped drivers and went out again, non stop until lunch then again afterwards with a fairly early finish at 4 ish.
The engine behaved perfectly, the cooling system is up to the job, the brakes didn't overheat or fade or boil.
The handling was awesome, this was a worry of mine as I've done all the calculations but never pushed it. It was so predictable, full of feedback, and really well balanced, I'm over the moon with the handling.
And it performed really well, there were some serious cars there and I think the Scim and the three drivers were about a third of the way up the field, with plenty of vx220s, lotus', a GTR lots of BMWs etc being pretty dam fast. The Scim showed up lots of hot hatches, the odd elise, a 944, an E36 M3 (although I'm sure that's more about the driver). Suffice to say I'm really really pleased with how it went.
There were a few points to work on. The rebalanced propshaft has meant that the vibration at 80mph has gone, but there is still a vibration at 120mph (this will be a little harder to sort out on the road).
The front discs have cracked too. I'll go on about this a bit more in another post, but I won't be buying cheap drilled discs again. And that's about it really! :)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20140224_201417.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20140224_201417.jpg.html)
Anyway enough of that. Here are a few snaps of the car on track, firstly my younger brother pushing on just a little too much :)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture021.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture021.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture001-2.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture001-2.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture002-3.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture002-3.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture004-4.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture004-4.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture007-2.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture007-2.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture008-2.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture008-2.jpg.html)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/Picture011-4.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/Picture011-4.jpg.html)
Next the car is off the road for a couple of months until funds allow. In the mean time, an inspection of the important bits, new discs all round, road seats back in, and try to locate the vibration problem.
More to come
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Glad it worked ok for you mate - especially after all your hard work :y
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Thanks Dbug
:) :) :)
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Looks like you had an excellent day out - very impressive performance from the car considering you only switched it off for lunch! I don't believe I could pound on the M3 that hard and have it not explode in a shower of pistons or cogs.. ;D
I may have asked this before, but which TDO did you do the day with?
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I'm sure an M3 could take the punishment, they're designed for it, they love it :)
I did it through Javalin Trackdays
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Good to see you had an excellent day and all your hard work paid off with no major problems. :y :y :y
Have you had a phone call from the Red Bull F1 team yet as they need some help with their recent track days. ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Excellent pictures , glad its all worked out after all the hard work put in :y Now on to the V8 project :D
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:) :)
I'm sticking with 6 cylinders I think. Although I was so impressed with the balanced nature of the car, I've thought twice about supercharging the 3.2. I would hate ruin the balance and produce a hot rod that skids a lot.
But don't worry, I soon came to my senses :) :)
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V8 Omega did you say , been done before though :y
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A fresh MOT this morning and 6 months Tax :) :)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l217/lozzzzzzz_2006/20140531_083158.jpg) (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/lozzzzzzz_2006/media/20140531_083158.jpg.html)