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Author Topic: Changing head gasket - locking tools?  (Read 11812 times)

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Nick W

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Re: Changing head gasket - locking tools?
« Reply #30 on: 13 September 2020, 20:32:48 »

A couple of things:


by the time you've removed the entire intake, cambelt and all the covers, replacing just one head gasket is daft. The fault on mine was on the driver's side, but although the passenger side seemed OK, the gasket was barely any better.


expecting the ECU to diagnose this for you is extremely optimistic - its sensors and programming are not intended to do this.


first rule of diagnosing a new fault after work is to go back over what you did.


If that doesn't work, get somebody else to do the same thing, from scratch
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woolley11

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Re: Changing head gasket - locking tools?
« Reply #31 on: 14 September 2020, 15:42:03 »

Well my old man used to say if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it  ;D - we had good compressions on the N/S bank so thought may as well leave well alone. Knowing what I know now I can strip the thing down pretty quick - the N/S was always the trickier one to do with all the cable tray and coil pack to deal with.

I’m going back through logical “start up” things later in the week ; checking HT leads and right order, spark plugs & cleaning, checking for an actual spark for each pot etc.

I’m going to also check earth straps as the car was only turning over very slowly on the battery  and without a good spin I don’t think it’ll do anything. Could need a good clean - plus I noticed some rot that needs welding (don’t think it’s in that area - but haven’t traced the earth strap down yet so could be manky where it is on the body). I also thought about engine being seized having stood so long but I’ve turned it clockwise several revolutions  with a socket on the crank bolt. I took plugs out to free up the compression and it turned over fine.

I’ll keep you posted - I won’t be beat !!

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woolley11

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Re: Changing head gasket - locking tools?
« Reply #32 on: 14 September 2020, 15:46:46 »

Posted last missive too quick !

I was thinking of doing the paper clip test to see if any codes came up for any faulty sensors etc.
Appreciate bad timing won’t necessarily give a fault code by its itself.
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cam.in.head

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Re: Changing head gasket - locking tools?
« Reply #33 on: 14 September 2020, 17:47:54 »

just be logical and carefully work your way through everything.
did it run just before you did the work or are we talking a couple of years ago ?
if you have got photos of cams and your own markings then check these first to make sure you have the correct cams in the correct place and the pulleys on the front of the cams in the correct place .be 100% sure, just take your time and compare what you used as reference.
then make 100% sure that the belt and pulleys are timed up correctly. turn the engine to nearly tdc,fit the crank tool and carefully bring up to tdc.make sure top alignment tool shows everything ok.tweak if required and then finally check tension wheel marker pointer.turn the engine a couple more times and recheck .
watch club dvd ,youtube videos or whatever method of your choice to be sure everything is ok.
then personally i would crank the engine over with fuel pump and injector relays removed to make sure it "sounds right" if you know what i mean.you should have an evenly spinning engine with no unusual slow spots or fast spots just a normal sounding engine with even compression strokes.
after this its a case of :
are the plugs ok
are the leads ok
is coil ok and firing order correct
is the fuel pressure good,fuel new,filter ok
is everything plugged back in as and where it should be
all air hoses,vacuum hoses,servo hose connection
basically checking everything is back to where it was before you started the job
this list is largely dependant on your answer to the first question thou !
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Re: Changing head gasket - locking tools?
« Reply #34 on: 14 September 2020, 18:26:31 »

Have you got the cams correct, there's inlet and exhaust cam.
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woolley11

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Re: Changing head gasket - locking tools?
« Reply #35 on: 15 September 2020, 20:58:07 »

It started tonight !! Woo hoo

Bit rough for now but vacuum connections missing on 3 pipes as waiting for other omega to come back so I can see the correct routing . A bit of backfire but I think that’s a build up of fuel etc

Plug leads 2&3 wrong way round on O/S bank, and plug tube 3 on N/S had water in it, due to stood without rain guttering. Took all plug leads off and WD40 up the plug leads, cleaned all plugs, replaced the one stood in water with an old one I kept. (Soaked up water in  plug tube with Kitchen roll pushed down tube  before I removed plug).

Need new plugs I think, vacuum pipes fitted might cure most of the ailments.
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Re: Changing head gasket - locking tools?
« Reply #36 on: 15 September 2020, 22:45:07 »

 :y
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Re: Changing head gasket - locking tools?
« Reply #37 on: 16 September 2020, 00:01:34 »

Fingers crossed for you.  :y
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woolley11

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Re: Changing head gasket - locking tools?
« Reply #38 on: 20 September 2020, 14:37:58 »


I’ve put things together again from my cylinder head gasket replacement and timing kit etc.

There’s no tickover and will stall if not a small amount of revs applied.

Runs rough at moment, but as rain channel/scuttle been off thinking the coil pack had got a dousing now. There was water in rear plug tube on N/S so highly lightly. Just need to get some time to investigate and remove/check/replace it.

More interestingly, I’ve also noticed a plastic (not rubber hose)pipe which is 12mm external diameter and 7mm interior diameter that seems to come up from the bell housing but no location in engine bay. I’ve taped it up for now but should go somewhere 🤔

Holding water pressure which is good.

I’ve noticed a little oil leak that could be rocker cover weeping a little.
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Re: Changing head gasket - locking tools?
« Reply #39 on: 20 September 2020, 14:42:16 »

That's the gearbox breather.

Oil leak is self inflicted if you didn't fit new camcover seals...

Idle could be a number of things, but make sure that the throttle cable is correctly tensioned.
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Nick W

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Re: Changing head gasket - locking tools?
« Reply #40 on: 20 September 2020, 15:27:06 »


I’ve put things together again from my cylinder head gasket replacement and timing kit etc.

There’s no tickover and will stall if not a small amount of revs applied.

Runs rough at moment, but as rain channel/scuttle been off thinking the coil pack had got a dousing now. There was water in rear plug tube on N/S so highly lightly. Just need to get some time to investigate and remove/check/replace it.

More interestingly, I’ve also noticed a plastic (not rubber hose)pipe which is 12mm external diameter and 7mm interior diameter that seems to come up from the bell housing but no location in engine bay. I’ve taped it up for now but should go somewhere 🤔





Air leak, which could also explain the misfire. Go over everything, back to the cylinder heads. Of course, your new head gasket could now be emphasising the weakness in the one you didn't change.....


The pipe is the gearbox breather, which comes out of the gearbox, over the top of the bellhousing and hangs down the other side.
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woolley11

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Re: Changing head gasket - locking tools?
« Reply #41 on: 20 September 2020, 16:44:23 »

Thanks for help

Wondered if it was just a breather pipe, as no jubilee or clip markings on it.

I fitted new cam seals so it’s probable I haven’t driven them in far enough 😞🤔

I’ll look at coil pack during week/when I’ve time.

I have moved  the clip on the throttle cable and I will see if that makes any difference to the stalling/idle - obviously should do (never thought of that clip position).  I did take it off during strip down and just put it back where I thought. I check with my other MV6 and count the rings back so it’s at least same as something that’s running ok.
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Re: Changing head gasket - locking tools?
« Reply #42 on: 20 September 2020, 21:33:38 »

That's the gearbox breather.

Oil leak is self inflicted if you didn't fit new camcover seals...

Idle could be a number of things, but make sure that the throttle cable is correctly tensioned.
Surely the idle air intake is controlled via the Idle Air Valve (IAV) on X25XE & X30XE?

The intake butterflies should be fully closed at idle on X25XE & X30XE. So in that respect it shouldn't matter how slack the throttle cable is,  the butterflies should be fully closed and air intake solely through the IAV. If the cable adjustment is too slack there will be a noticeable dead spot at the start of travel on the throttle pedal and full throttle will not be achievable. If the cable is too tight them the butterflies will be partly open and the revs will rise. So for those reasons correct throttle adjustment is vital, but won't cure stalling at idle.
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woolley11

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Re: Changing head gasket - locking tools?
« Reply #43 on: 07 October 2020, 20:45:10 »

Well I’ve run car up again and g having changed HT leads, it actually ran ok. It just seemed to need a run up and down and get up to temperature.

However it stalled and now when I try and start it, it just sounds like the starter is spinning - possibly starter motor just spinning the crank ?

Thinking the worst that new belt I’ve put on with tensioner/followers has either come off or jumped. Or something new has failed.

Either way it’s seems I’ve run out of ideas and fizz now  :(

Options:

To start again,
Have it rebuilt by my local garage (£££)
Replace  engine (anyone got a good s/h engine)?
Sell as is
Break it

It’s done 113k miles and I’m only the second owner and very few PFL MV6s left. It’s fully loaded spec wise so seems a shame to bin it

Oh what to do  :-\
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Re: Changing head gasket - locking tools?
« Reply #44 on: 08 October 2020, 13:07:47 »

Check the timing first, remove as little as you need to until you can spin it by hand to line it up.
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