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Messages - TestOmega

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31
Omega General Help / Re: Self levelling shocks
« on: 30 November 2017, 19:29:00 »
C'est la vie  ::)! Sometimes you save with one hand only to spend with the other.

I installed Monroe MA825s with self leveling about 8-10 years ago. The self leveling system to today seem to be peachy peachy with them. They used ot be much cheaper bu tI find that either these are out of production or otherwise they have gone up in price.  Even though you don't need these in case it is of value to anyone else,

https://www.andysautosport.com/products/monroe__MA825.html


32
Just came back from the shop today where I had the Wishbones (lower control arms) replaced. What wonderful tightness in the steering control. I replaced these with Moog control arms.

As the car was on the hoist, the damage to the cable connecting vehicle speed sensor was extensive. It was ripped with broken conductors except it was not in two pieces yet. The mechanic who did the wishbones kind of tried to repair it but watching from a distance I had little confidence in the repair as he himself stated he does not know much about electrical. On a good day I am going to go over the cable again and see if I can do proper electrical repair. While doing that I will test the Speed Sensor based on some information and the pointers people have provided here. If the sensors pan out and the cable repair is complete and it still has issues, I will focus on the Bosch EBTCM/ECU. The speedometer showed little life that it actually showed correct zero on the gauge when the car was running and the OBDII showed VSS value of 0 Km/h throughout driving. Still Error P0500 regarding the Speed Sensor A showed up.

I am not sure if the ABS ECU could be toast based on any shorts in the downstream wiring towards the sensor either from the ripping up of the cable or the bad repair. I hope there is some protection in the ABS ECU against downstream shorts. Any comments along these lines would be helpful.

Thank you.


33
Thanks much everyone.

I drove her for about an hour and a half and when I checked it again the only code now is,

-  P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor A

So there are two likely outcomes and for sure the ABS ECU is communicating towards the Central Computing module as the DTC P0500 is reported which is consistent with no speedometer and no odometer;

A. Speed sensor A is bad and the ABS ECU is reporting it correctly: Solution is to fix the Vehicle Speed Sensor A"

B. Speed sensor A is Good and ABS ECU is communicating incorrectly to the CPU and killing the Vehicle Speed Sensor A input: Solution repair/replace ABS ECU

I am going to stop by a shop tomorrow and hopefully we will have a definitive resolution and I will report back.

Thanks all.

34
So I put the ABS fuse back in and read the Codes. There were the following as I read these with my basic OBDII meter connected to the OBDII port nearer to the fuse panel inside on the driver side;

What I find related to my issues is as follows;

 - P1700 Transmission Control Module (TCM) Requested MIL Illumination (Probably related to U2108 below)

-  U2108 Lost communication with ABS/TCS control system (This is probably related to the fuse being removed. If it sets again then further digging needed to see if wiring or module issues)

-  P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor A

I am not sure if any of these were setup based on me removing the fuse. There were no codes or lit errors on the Instrument Panel once I installed the ABS fuse.

I cleared the codes and am going to drive to see which codes get set again. Any other thoughts in the mean time I appreciate specially which and where is Vehicle Speed Sensor A!

Regards

35
Thanks Doc. I am going to re-install the ABS fuse and look for any codes that may be set after that. Originally there  was nothing lit up on the Instrument Panel in terms of ABS or TCS or TC.

Do you know anyone who can source and post to me near Toronto Canada a used module ABS EBTCM for this issue and my car is; Auto Transmission, Petrol with 3.0 X30XE engine? I will post on the progress regardless.

36
The Tacho/RPM display is working even with the ABS module fuse in or out! So I assume it is either pass through or is not managed by the ABS Module. I did not try cruise but I suspect it may not work but I can try and see but I would have to re-insert the ABS fuse for sure as most state that Speed is processed through the ABS module but you can correct me on that.

I have been advised by one ABS builder shop (Modulemaster in USA) to check the Speed sensors in the rear gear box and I believe there are  two and only one is used for speed determination. I don't know which one. Is there a way to check resistance, etc., for these sensors or are these magnetic pickups?

It is Analog Instrument Cluster and does not have any fuel efficiency or like readouts. It looks like the following,

http://images.gtcarlot.com/pictures/47804830.jpg

Thanks

37
ve read lot of posts on this matter as well as the guides to remove the Bosch 5.3 ABS EBTCM/ECU. I find my situation a little different hence the new post.

Scenario:
0. The Cadillac Catera 2001 is 253,000 Km + young  :y
1. All of a sudden while driving the RPM indicator, Speedometer, Odometer stopped working
2. Subsequently RPM Counter/Tachometer display returned and has stayed accurately functional
3. Steering a little harder and does not adjust with driving speed
4. I am using the GPS temporarily to work as a speedometer
5. No malfunction codes on the instrument panel
6. I smelled little smoke type smell intermittently afterwards during the next couple of times I drove
7. Now I have removed the ABS fuse from the fuse panel (so now the ABS and other codes are turned on) as some posts state that a malfunction ABS ECU/EBTCM can cause the ABS motor to run continuously and burn out!

Help Needed:

Any suggestions for what I should try before working in the ABS unit area! There are some issues on the left side of he instrument panel where some bulbs stopped working and at one time I could thump around the area and these will light up. So I do plan to remove the panel and fix the bulbs as well as properly reseat the instrument panel. My gut feeling is that the speedo/odo issues are not necessarily the instrument panel issues but I would hear from the wise and more experienced.

If I do need to get the Bosch 5.3 ABS controller/EBCTM/ECU replaced or repair can anyone guide to a reasonable resource. Mine is 3.0 V6 X30XE petrol. There are very few resources in Canada but there appear some who will repair the unit but quite expensive.

PS: I fu**d up  :-[ and added brake fluid to the Steering reservoir to top it up. I realized right away and did not start the car and siphoned off the Steering pump reservoir and added proper steering fluid. Could this be the cause of some smoke type smell that I observed las week whereas this incident happened more than two months ago and I did not observe any steering issues.

38
Set up or alignment done, all is happy happy  ;)

For cost comparison it cost me about equivalent of Pound 27 or $50 Canadian here in Canada on my Catera 2001 (Opel Omega B 2000 facelift equivalent).

Thank you for your answers regardless.

39
Today I replaced the outer tie rod ends. I counted the turns when removing old tie rod end s and while replacing with new turned exactly the same number of turns. When I took for a drive the steering to go forward appears to be turned 30/45 degrees off centre. The feel is bad.

I was wondering if I overtightened the ball joints or any other errors. The tires look perfectly aligned from the looks.

I will take for alignment but wanted to know if it is normal. I tightened the ball joint bolt to about 74 ft lb per the guide on here.

Thank you.

40
Alright I did the job with a new bolt and changed the oil too with new GM filter.  All is good.

Just for the record when the car died on the freeway/hiway the following was left as codes,

Code Set: 
MIL set; Code P0300 ---- Random Multiple Cylinder misfire

Pending Codes: 
P0302 --- Cylinder 2 misfire
P0305 --- Cylinder 5 misfire
P0303 --- Cylinder 3 misfire
P0306 --- Cylinder 6 misfire

After the CPS was installed, the car started with first crank and have not observed any issues or new codes. Perhaps I should have left the codes to self clear but I cleared these. I am watching if any new are pending or set. Nothing so far after a days driving yesterday.

By the way if it helps someone, the bolt indeed is M6 and it is 12mm in threaded part and perhaps 15 mm with head included. I got a bolt with different head and it has Torx head that one can tighten with Allen key.

I did reroute the CPS cable away from exhaust manifold towards the left fender/wheel side leaving the Oil filter area. As per Mark's writeup there is slack left with ties holding it in place.

Again thanks to all. I greatly appreciate the help and ideas I received.

Cheers.  :y

PS:  If this does not stay as permanent fix I will report back.

               

41
Folks thanks for all the ideas. I tapped in with hammer and extension the Torx bit and voila it turned and came out. Too tired right now from under the car for one blood* puny bolt but sweet. I indeed will change the oil and reroute as per MARKDtm right up. I printed it before starting and fell prey to other North American posts and used wrong socket. Once the new CPS goes in, hopefully all codes will clear and she will adapt to/learn the new CPS. Any other thoughts from here on I will appreciate and I will post back after this part of the job is done.

Regards to all, what a great bunch!  :D ;)

42
Kevin so thank you. I kept the area soaked in "Liquid Wrench" so probably when I get at it, it will move. Is this bolt like the one securing the plenum or different. Here in Canada such Torx screws were not much used or popular so I want to make do with some temporary to put the CPS in and then get a screw for replacement.

Thanks.

43
Is the bolt normal or reverse threaded? I mean I try to twist it anticlockwise to loosen it like lefty loosy righty tighty? Thanks for your comments so far. The shiny part looks too thick compared to the replacement Genuine right CPS i have to replace it with or it may be just the way it looks in tight spot?

I do have a mole wrench but it is very very tight to grab this piece.

Thanks.

44
Chris I am tool limited. My drill would not get into that space. I already broke plastic of the old CPS and it slides off. Is the bolt threaded into the block or their is protrusion as I see a shiny stub and the bolt remaining after I broke of the plastic. Should I try to spin out all that shiny post assuming the bolt is into the rusted part?

Thanks.

45
I was trying to remove the CPS holding bolt and unfortunately used wrong socket. It is stuck solid with little room to play. I am going to continue to work on it but have couple of questions,

1.  What is the size of the bolt in length and Torx value?

2.  Is this bolt used anywhere else in the car that I can temporarily take it from like the plenum etc.?

3.  Any suggestions how to remove the CPS hold down bolt that has head messed up to use any sockets?

Thank you in advance I am a little stuck and appreciate help?

Regards.

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