Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[robson]

Had a problem whilst unlocking door with remote.I tried the blade in the lock but no response maybe I was not giving it enough force. Opened on reemote eventually Boot unlocked ok with the  remote.The door opening has been a bit hit and mix recenly on the remote. I am thinking new battery or bad contacts in the remote. Any suggestions?

[Nick W]

It won't be a fault with the remote if it's unlocking the boot or any of the other doors.

[TheBoy]

Unlocking from remote: Is is a 3 button one (ie, a saloon)? If so, if buttons are not that responsive, the switches need replacing in the remote.

Unlocking using key in lock: If car battery is good, it should unlock with little force. If it doesn't, it's probably popped a link off, or the latch is fubar.  If the car battery is flat, it needs a surprising amount of force to unlock.

[TheBoy]

If the buttons on the remote respond well, but one door is lazy to unlock, replace the microswitch in the CDL motor.

[robson]

Was it Martin Imber that refurbished remotes? I havnt seen any posts from him for a lon time?

[TheBoy]

Its dead easy, anyone with a soldering iron can do it

[robson]

I do have a lazy passenger  solenoid but I can put up with that but not with complete lock out,Just tried unlocking having left the car for a couple of hours and all is well. Is the heat getting to cars as well as people.

[TheBoy]

You haven't actually explained the issue yet.

Is it that one button on the remote isn't responding? Or all buttons? Or individual doors (and that one that is lazy needs fixing, as it will bite you later)

[Doctor Gollum]

Also, is this the same car you had the jammed latch on 

[robson]

The problem was that the doors would not unlock with the remote.I tried the key unlock and could hear some movement inside the door but would not open, I tried the boot with the remote it unlocked with no problem.Left it a while and remote opened doors I think that the open and shut switches in the remote are playing up.Yes the passenger door lock is suspect and needs attention.Yes Doc this is  the car that we sorted when drivers door lock failed completely,

[Doctor Gollum]

Remove the passenger lock mechanism and go to town on it with WD40 then 3in1 and possibly some white lithium grease. Hopefully you'll catch that side before it fails.

Actually, be prudent to do that to the drivers door too.

Rebuild/replace both front door solenoids.

A fresh battery in the fob is good preventative maintaince, it's an overlooked service item.

If you have the car pass, then new fobs shouldn't be too hard to come by, but you can also try contacting Martin Imber via his website.

[TheBoy]

Do you have a spare remote (if not, why not?), and does that work better - ie, prove it is the remote thats failed.

If the remote is failing, replace all 3 switches ASAP, before you completely bugger up the rubber casing.

Lubing those latches will make zero difference, never does.  Replace the failed microswitch in the passenger central door locking.

[robson]

Yes I have a spare remote and will use this one for a while but the main remote is working ok at present 

[TheBoy]

Yes I have a spare remote and will use this one for a while but the main remote is working ok at present 

If its the switches, continued use will damage the rubber cover, and 100% of the ebay replacements are a horrible, hard rubber, which means buying a genuine replcement fob just for the case.

A stitch in time....

[Doctor Gollum]

Do you have a spare remote (if not, why not?), and does that work better - ie, prove it is the remote thats failed.

If the remote is failing, replace all 3 switches ASAP, before you completely bugger up the rubber casing.

Lubing those latches will make zero difference, never does.  Replace the failed microswitch in the passenger central door locking.

Have to disagree there. If the mechanism binds up then it forces the solenoid to work harder. The switches wear with use, but it isn't the only potential failure point.

Ensuring the mechanism all moves freely is basic preventative maintenance, especially when you consider that the mechanisms haven't been available for about a decade.

[TheBoy]

Never seen one bind (on an Omega).  If it did, I certainly wouldn't use a wet lubricant like WD40 (ignoring debates on if that is a lubricant)...

[Doctor Gollum]

Never seen one bind (on an Omega).  If it did, I certainly wouldn't use a wet lubricant like WD40 (ignoring debates on if that is a lubricant)...

It's the first part in order to flush out any existing detritus before using 3in1 or similar, as per my earlier post.

Had one seize during the handover to its new owner, as Chris will attest, and had another on my ex plod and three on other members cars, plus Robsons. So it can and does happen.

Most of those were between 5 and 10 years ago, and the parts aren't magically getting younger. Or more prevelant.

[robson]

For some reason my problem has disappeared All my keys and locks are now operating as they should on remotes and mechanicals. I dont know whether it is the heat that is affecting the car or me Thanks for the inputs