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[henryd]

I've NEVER regretted fitting new shocks to anything. The deterioration is so gradual, nobody notices just how bad they are until new ones are fitted. At 125k miles, yours will be so knackered that if you had to remove them for some other reason, you wouldn't want to refit them.


The Omega's problem is the maintenance unfriendly front suspension that adds an alignment session to £120 for the new shocks and the 90mins work.

Doesn't the omega have strut inserts on the front?,if so why not remove complete front leg at ballpoint and don't break the strut to hub joint, that way the geometry shouldn't be affected 

Nope, replacements are the whole assembly, which means unbolting them from the hubs and losing the camber adjustment.

Sorry,my bad.shame though as it would have saved some hassle.

[BazaJT]

You could always try the "bounce"test as a first port of call,after all it's quick,easy and costs nowt,and then go from there.Things do deteriorate sometimes un-noticed over time,but why fix something what aint broke?

[Nick W]

You could always try the "bounce"test as a first port of call,after all it's quick,easy and costs nowt,and then go from there.Things do deteriorate sometimes un-noticed over time,but why fix something what aint broke?

I've removed shocks that pass the 'bounce test' but had no damping action left. It is quick, easy and free, but that's mainly because it doesn't actually tell you anything worth knowing.

[X30XE]

You could always try the "bounce"test as a first port of call,after all it's quick,easy and costs nowt,and then go from there.Things do deteriorate sometimes un-noticed over time,but why fix something what aint broke?

I've removed shocks that pass the 'bounce test' but had no damping action left. It is quick, easy and free, but that's mainly because it doesn't actually tell you anything worth knowing.

+1 


Having just replace my shocks all round the most obvious improvement is safety. It's now far less inclined to leap off the road when you go over tarmac subsidence at 50mph. About shat myself a few months ago on one badly maintained road 

[chrisgixer]

Unless it's wallowing around (lost compression damping) or banging or bouncing the wheels off bumps(lost damping altogether especially on self levelling), and it's not bothering you or they're leaking, leave well alone. Imo. Especially given you DONT wang round corners, and the front WILL need set up AFTER.


....and ignore that Stmo eejit there's a reason he's banned from all areas except general disrespect. .... NURSE, he's out of bed again!

[The Sheriff]

Unless it's wallowing around (lost compression damping) or banging or bouncing the wheels off bumps(lost damping altogether especially on self levelling), and it's not bothering you or they're leaking, leave well alone. Imo. Especially given you DONT wang round corners, and the front WILL need set up AFTER.


....and ignore that Stmo eejit there's a reason he's banned from all areas except general disrespect. .... NURSE, he's out of bed again!

Yes, ignore me, even though I said exactly the same as he did....but earlier 

[chrisgixer]

Sorry, did someone speak? No thought not

[Shackeng]

Now now children.

[Diamond Black Geezer]

Given the price (about £50) that most spend on poly front bushes, or maybe even a new sound system (maybe £100, or a lot more) surely by far the biggest change for the least money (£60ish for the rears, and under £200 all-in) you can make on your car is new shocks. Going from fairly clapped-out to brand new I cannot stress how tight and planted the car felt afterwards, and she's still due a full geometry setup, which will no doubt help things that bit more, too. 

[chrisgixer]

Checking the rears is fairly easy, jack up on stands, remove bottom bolt, get under and push the shock up, then down. It should be hard to compress but be even and constant through out its travel, and then extend slowly under its own steam in a controlled even constant down stroke. Self levelling makes this a pita though as the bladers interfere with the movement.

Any dead or stiff spots or failure to return to fully extended in a constant even movement and bin them.

[omega2018]

a failed rear sl shock on mine was very easy to spot with the bounce test - it just kept on bouncing

[chrisgixer]

a failed rear sl shock on mine was very easy to spot with the bounce test - it just kept on bouncing

Did it bang as the rear wheels bounced off bumps? Mine did.

Sl are a bit of law to themselves though. They don't last as long as normal shocks due to rust on the shock body, under the bladders.

[TheBoy]

Shocks will start to degrade from the moment they are put on. Assuming one doesn't "fail", it will just degrade to the point it does nothing useful, which probably still not fail an MOT.

You *WILL* notice the difference with new shocks. But do you *need* them? Only you can decide.

[Shackeng]

OK so I decided to change them on the TD Estate, but surprisingly, given the amount of OOF members who have changed them, there is no 'how to' for the fronts.

[Shackeng]

.....so I guess I will just have to use the Haynes book of lies. 

Reading back over different threads, it appears that Bilstein B4's are the preferred type. Are these good for front and rears on my PFL estate?