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[Nick W]

OK so I decided to change them on the TD Estate, but surprisingly, given the amount of OOF members who have changed them, there is no 'how to' for the fronts.

It really is a simple "undo a few bolts and the bits fall off in your hand" deal.




BUT you need some robust spring compressors, and be careful using them. And you will need to have the geometry done when you're finished.

[chrisgixer]

Worst part is probably undoing the drop link. I find the bottom nut easiest but you need to remove the top one which is partially unsited.

.... removing the spring as a pita as said, mostly because my spring compressors are too close to the shock when compressing.

Quite easy...
Slightly loosen wheel nuts
Jack on stands

Then follow this
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90652.0

Remove wheel
Remove drop link( small angle grinder if needed )
Remove brake clip/hose and cables from bracket
Remove two shock body bolts
Remove top nut and catch the strut as it falls out

Compress spring. Note order and which way up the parts are assembled. Swap parts and spring into new shock, re fit, leave camber / shock body bolts slighty loose so you can thump the wheel over to get the right shock to rim gap. Nip the bolts up 100nm iirc


17mm socket for wheel
18mm socket shock body bolts
17mm open spanner for drop link
24mm ring spanner for top nuts
11mm spanner for shock shaft


Pretty sure Tunnie did a rear shock guide for the estate.

[TheBoy]

OK so I decided to change them on the TD Estate, but surprisingly, given the amount of OOF members who have changed them, there is no 'how to' for the fronts.

Take some pics

Basically, strut out (2 bolts holding strut to steering knuckle, single bolt at top.

Using spring compressors, dismantle strut, reassemble in same order, refit.  Off to WIM (or similar) to get camber reset.

[05omegav6]

.....so I guess I will just have to use the Haynes book of lies. 

Reading back over different threads, it appears that Bilstein B4's are the preferred type. Are these good for front and rears on my PFL estate?

Yes, but obtain the rear shock top mounts from VX as the Bilstein ones are pants in comparison 

[Shackeng]

Thks guys, and Bilstein B4's all round for my driving?

[chrisgixer]

Bit firmer than stock. What's the TD? Elite?

[chrisgixer]

Bit firmer than stock. What's the TD? Elite?

Just seen cdx. I'd stick with GM. For you.

[Shackeng]

Bit firmer than stock. What's the TD? Elite?

Just seen cdx. I'd stick with GM. For you.

Ta

[TheBoy]

Thks guys, and Bilstein B4's all round for my driving?

B4s are the direct aftermarket replacement for original shocks. They are not "sports".  For that reason, I would recommend for most. They cover a multitude of styles.

B6 are the firm sports ones (then B8 going more extreme).


You will notice a stiffer ride, regardless of what you put on, as your old ones are now weak, having served a lifetime.  On top of that, I would say B4 are marginally stiffer than GM...  ...but most people who replace old shocks with them will always say they are much firmer, simple because the old shocks were shot.

[chrisgixer]

Having replaced new LSC rear shocks that failed under warranty with b4 , I can say, b4 are firmer. Hence stick with standard if looking for ride comfort on a cdx with no sl.

[Shackeng]

Ta, I'll ponder on that, and prices, before I purchase. Thinking that I may as well replace the front springs as well, having replaced the rears last year, thus having a new-ish complete set. Chris, I replaced droplinks recently, so they should come off OK.

[chrisgixer]

Should do then

Consider top mounts as well I guess. Might be worth checking if the shock is jumpy as the steering turns when it's jacked up both sides. Certainly grease them.

[Diamond Black Geezer]

As has also been mentioned apparently the rubber you get with the B4s are inferior to GM, so try and get new GM or some decent used ones (I'm on the hunt as we speak for decent used/free ones)

Can't personally say I find anything 'wrong' with the ones you get in the Bilstein kit, but the word on the street is they're evil and must be binned. Also 10/10 for the B4s - and I like my cars to be wobby, spongy, comfy, but don't find them too stiff at all, and you won't be disappointed in any way for fitting the slightly stiffer B4s over original GM.

[05omegav6]

As has also been mentioned apparently the rubber you get with the B4s are inferior to GM, so try and get new GM or some decent used ones (I'm on the hunt as we speak for decent used/free ones)

Can't personally say I find anything 'wrong' with the ones you get in the Bilstein kit, but the word on the street is they're evil and must be binned. Also 10/10 for the B4s - and I like my cars to be wobby, spongy, comfy, but don't find them too stiff at all, and you won't be disappointed in any way for fitting the slightly stiffer B4s over original GM.

When you compare the mounting kits side by side you will see the differences in both construction and quality. The Bilstein ones are shit.

As for finding good condition second hand ones, good luck the upper part is a wear component,  as you'll see when/if you remove yours

[TheBoy]

Not sure if they have changed, but I used the rubbers that came with the B4s on the back of the Bullet, swapped pre-LPG days