Remember that the intake air undergoes adiabatic cooling as the pressure drops at the throttle on part throttle. This could cause icing of the throttle if the incoming air is humid. Temperature drops here can be as much as 20 degrees c so freezing air is not a requirement for icing, just humidity, as any pilot will testify.
What effect does the dribble of coolant that flows through the heated throttle body have on the temperature of the huge amount of air passing through it at full power, though? The square root of eff all is my guess, but anyone contemplating serious tuning would know. They'd have measured it and worked out if it's worthwhile.
Ditto the multirams. Those drain pipes have a huge diameter compared to the throttle bodies that follow them. I'm not saying that they aren't at all restrictive, but if they are, it'll only be right at the top end of the power curve, and not worth enough power to forego the considerable increase in torque they provide at low revs. IMHO. (it's the area under the curve that matters) Again, measure it (e.g. before and after on a dyno) and decide if "ripping it out" is a compromise worth making.
IMHO, as soon as you've made a modification, especially one as noticeable as a Mantzel box, you're into "modified" car insurance premiums and potentially finding out to your cost why the manufacturer spent a considerable amount of money doing what they did as standard. If it's not going to make a significant difference my car is staying standard, thanks. If it did, we'd all do it.
If I were interested in tuning the V6 (and I'm not, mine is a commuting car primarily, and has enough power) I would start with the abysmal exhaust manifolds. It's a shame there's no off-the-shelf solution to that, but the tuning companies aren't interested in developing anything that takes more than 10 minutes for the average chav to bolt on.
I don't think much on the intake side is worth messing about with until you go to individual throttle bodies.