Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: Webby the Bear on 29 March 2017, 22:32:08
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.....what would you do to ensure it would be non-problematic for years to come?
So. I have this mental idea that one day I'm just going to say "f!?k it" and beg, steal borrow the money to buy myself a brand new mustang.
And it got me thinking.
Obviously everyone has a list of things that need doing on a recently purchased used vehicle I.e. welding, bodywork, maintenance stuff.
But if you purchased a brand new car what would you do to look after it and reduce the need for future things like the aforementioned welding.
Things that spring to mind for me.....
1.) under seal the living shite out of the underneath, chassis, any bare metal etc.
2.) copperslip every nut n bolt on the suspension, subframe etc (not remove them lol just a coat on the outside)
3.) change all fluids n filters every quarter regardless of mileage. Yes that's f.....g nuts but I am nuts and it's my brand new motor :P ;D
4.) obviously observe the break in period to the T.
5.) I haven't looked in to it but I'm sure you can get some paint protection stuff. I'd do this.
6.) seat covers from day one.
What are your thoughts :y
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Oh and not let wifey drive it. That's number one of course ::)
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Halve the factory intervals and use it :y
Sod seat covers, buy a spare set of covers, foams and door cards along with any other bits of trim that might wear... six months of ownership will give an idea but get them bought within a year otherwise they become unavailable ;)
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That's reminded me of another idea I had.
Every time it's used. Get it up to temp at idle every time. Then thrash it. :)
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That's reminded me of another idea I had.
Every time it's used. Get it up to temp at idle every time. Then thrash it. :)
Nah, drive it from cold, but keep below 2k rpm until upto temp... assuming it actually has a guage ::)
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Very little until the warranty is up would be my answer. Paint and under seal could affect a claim I think. However I would (and did) use a clear wax treatment that stopped dirt adhering so well to the underside and did regular under car washes while salt was on.
Regular fluid changes are a must I think. The D4 I'm looking at has 18k oil changes - in a diesel that seems too long to me. Paint protection is a bit of snake oil I reckon. Regular waxing and clay baring will do just as good a job.
Long term the nose will need a blow over anyway due to stone chips. Inless you want to be a knob end with a car bra ;).
No way I'd cover the seats. If I've paid for heated leather I want my ass on it :P. Cleaner and leather feed should suffice. Then either pick up a mint drivers seat from a scrapper a few years down the line or pay to have it retrimmed.
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.....what would you do to ensure it would be non-problematic for years to come?
I think your better waiting until the end of the production run of a model if you can, the last models should have had all the issues from early production ironed out and known weaknesses should be known to the trade so you can do any prevention techniques before the issue arises on your 'late model'
or..... Sell it at the first sign of a problem
On the other side of the discussion, if there was nothing to fix / update / modify then i'd have to sell it and buy something that I can keep doing the odd bit of spanner work on as it's a hobby to me rather than a chore.
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How many times have we all spotted very new motors on trade plates trying to break the land speed record ;)
so I wouldn`t worry to much about the break-in period.
It`s a shame we can`t buy new cars like we buy new bikes
My bro lashed out on a new Yama R1 & the dealer rang to say the bike had arrived & was still sealed up in it`s shipping crate. Quite a special experince to see it cocooned liked that. :y
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Very little until the warranty is up would be my answer. Paint and under seal could affect a claim I think. However I would (and did) use a clear wax treatment that stopped dirt adhering so well to the underside and did regular under car washes while salt was on.
Regular fluid changes are a must I think. The D4 I'm looking at has ;D oil changes - in a diesel that seems too long to me. Paint protection is a bit of snake oil I reckon. Regular waxing and clay baring will do just as good a job.
Long term the nose will need a blow over anyway due to stone chips. Inless you want to be a knob end with a car bra ;).
No way I'd cover the seats. If I've paid for heated leather I want my ass on it :P. Cleaner and leather feed should suffice. Then either pick up a mint drivers seat from a scrapper a few years down the line or pay to have it retrimmed.
Good machine them D4 caterpillars.
Most trucks now are 100k service intervals,.
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I would do pretty much what you listed :y
mmm brand new motor :D :D
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I've not had one for quite a while now ....... :(
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I've not had one for quite a while now ....... :(
I've never :'(
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There's some really good points here.
if one was ordered then it would get delivered to the ford shop by truck (right?).. then I'd insist I'd pick it up ;D
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Re the warranty. That's also a very good point.
And wtf is a car bra? ;D
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Oh hang on you mean those with black covers on the bonnet. :y
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Re the warranty. That's also a very good point.
And wtf is a car bra? ;D
Here do... get yourself one for Christmas...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CADILLAC-CATERA-2000-2001-Custom-Bra-Car-Bonnet-Mask-/172105606281?fits=Make%3ACadillac%7CModel%3ACatera&hash=item28124b2489:g:GLkAAOSwll1WxQaj&vxp=mtr :y
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I just go with the servicing schedule. If you buy at the right price you can justify to yourself (just about) that you have a bit of money in the pot for repairs.
Phaeton was new 8 years ago. I don't wash it or wax it myself (well I did wax it myself 3 years ago following a VW day somewhere)- maybe it gets washed 6 times a year by others.
It looks like new and does the job. You can spend all the loving care you like on a car and it will still kick you in the teeth with something you cannot have predicted. Extract the maximum you can on extended warranty but depending on price you may be better just putting that money into a fund for future repairs.
Just take the hit on depreciation and make sure you are happy with that trade off as having had the new car experience.
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Why buy new, get an ex demo, will still have full warranty, few more toys, and be 10-15% than then unregistered one next to it.
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No way I'd cover the seats. If I've paid for heated leather I want my ass on it :P.
Did BMW know your bare arse had been on the seats when you returned your car? :P ;D
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No way I'd cover the seats. If I've paid for heated leather I want my ass on it :P.
Did BMW know your bare arse had been on the seats when you returned your car? :P ;D
He kept complaining about the skidding, but the ABS system showed no fault codes. It all starts to make sense. ;)
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.....what would you do to ensure it would be non-problematic for years to come?
So. I have this mental idea that one day I'm just going to say "f!?k it" and beg, steal borrow the money to buy myself a brand new mustang.
And it got me thinking.
Obviously everyone has a list of things that need doing on a recently purchased used vehicle I.e. welding, bodywork, maintenance stuff.
But if you purchased a brand new car what would you do to look after it and reduce the need for future things like the aforementioned welding.
Things that spring to mind for me.....
1.) under seal the living shite out of the underneath, chassis, any bare metal etc.
2.) copperslip every nut n bolt on the suspension, subframe etc (not remove them lol just a coat on the outside)
3.) change all fluids n filters every quarter regardless of mileage. Yes that's f.....g nuts but I am nuts and it's my brand new motor :P ;D
4.) obviously observe the break in period to the T.
5.) I haven't looked in to it but I'm sure you can get some paint protection stuff. I'd do this.
6.) seat covers from day one.
What are your thoughts :y
Interesting one. I've only bought two new cars, the first was a '72 Renault 16. I had the car undersealed by Zeibart who are still in business. It turns out that the internal sealing of the 'chassis' blocked all the drain holes designed to allow moisture to drain, and probably contributed to its 'chassis' failure earlier than expected in '77 :(
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To answer the question, I think I'd probably get some cavity wax into every nook that I could, then do a DIY service in-between each of the manufacturer service intervals. Can't really see the need to do much more. My Omega came to me at 4 yrs/40k miles. It's now on 205k and 15 years and my only regret is that I could have tried to get some wax into the rear wheel arch seams when it was pristine, as they are now starting to bubble. Mechanically, it's sound and I've had to do relatively little to it save for the usual Omega niggles that they all suffer.
This is all hypothetical, of course, because I'd never subject myself to the depreciation hit of driving it off the forecourt.
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Use it.....enjoy it......don't worry about it. Then once a week hand it over to the Poles and Lithuanians for a 'gritty sponge' all over massage. :)
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grease up all metal pipes and the uncoated ends of all brake pipes and unions
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Use it.....enjoy it......don't worry about it. Then once a week hand it over to the Poles and Lithuanians for a 'gritty sponge' all over massage. :)
...... and then trade it in for the next new one in 3 years time. :)
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There is absolutely no need for further rust proofing on modern cars.
Also, at your age, Webby, you would soon get bored of owning the same car, and your wife would be embarrassed at you driving around in an old car that should have been scrapped years ago.
Oh.....wait a minute......... ;D
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There is absolutely no need for further rust proofing on modern cars.
Also, at your age, Webby, you would soon get bored of owning the same car, and your wife would be embarrassed at you driving around in an old car that should have been scrapped years ago.
Oh.....wait a minute......... ;D
Maby if you live in Spain.. But anywhere them idiots throw salt on the roads, it is a very good thing. If you are gonna keep the car for a long time that is.
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There is absolutely no need for further rust proofing on modern cars.
Also, at your age, Webby, you would soon get bored of owning the same car, and your wife would be embarrassed at you driving around in an old car that should have been scrapped years ago.
Oh.....wait a minute......... ;D
Maby if you live in Spain.. But anywhere them idiots throw salt on the roads, it is a very good thing. If you are gonna keep the car for a long time that is.
It keeps me employed :D
If we had reliable, proper winters with proper tyres and proper drivers, salt wouldn't be necessary... :-X
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There is absolutely no need for further rust proofing on modern cars.
Also, at your age, Webby, you would soon get bored of owning the same car, and your wife would be embarrassed at you driving around in an old car that should have been scrapped years ago.
Oh.....wait a minute......... ;D
Maby if you live in Spain.. But anywhere them idiots throw salt on the roads, it is a very good thing. If you are gonna keep the car for a long time that is.
It keeps me employed :D
If we had reliable, proper winters with proper tyres and proper drivers, salt wouldn't be necessary... :-X
Indeed..
When you get passed by people doing 80mph in a blizzard, in the snow covered outside lane.. All other drivers must be seen as dangerous.
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We haven't had any grit on the roads up here for ages. It's just not cold enough and, besides, the council can't afford it.
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Loads of salt here. Guess we must have more BMW drivers. :-X
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I just go with the servicing schedule. If you buy at the right price you can justify to yourself (just about) that you have a bit of money in the pot for repairs.
Phaeton was new 8 years ago. I don't wash it or wax it myself (well I did wax it myself 3 years ago following a VW day somewhere)- maybe it gets washed 6 times a year by others.
It looks like new and does the job. You can spend all the loving care you like on a car and it will still kick you in the teeth with something you cannot have predicted. Extract the maximum you can on extended warranty but depending on price you may be better just putting that money into a fund for future repairs.
Just take the hit on depreciation and make sure you are happy with that trade off as having had the new car experience.
I do like the Phaeton. I never cease to be amazed just how huge they are in the metal. :y
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Tunnie maybe getting access to it this weekend with his VAGCOM :(
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Tunnie maybe getting access to it this weekend with his VAGCOM :(
Sounds like an expensive bit of kit.
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I cant actually think of a new car I would want to own. All the ones I desire are quite elderly. :-\
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I cant actually think of a new car I would want to own. All the ones I desire are quite elderly. :-\
I have that trouble with women.
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My father in Law bought a W reg mk4 astra 1.6 16V club new, and 19,000 miles and 15 years later it was as new.
Never go out if it might get wet
Never go out if the council might have salted the road
Never go out if the journey is less than 6 miles
Wash and dry and polish weekly
Check and record tyre pressures weekly.
Never go over 3000 RPM
Fit seat covers.4
Was Offered to various people in the family, and was eventually given to my son as his first car. It's value in 2015 ? No more than £1200. Value now with 45K on the clock ? £800 ?
My Dad bought a 51 reg focus 2.0 ghia estate new.
Never wash it. Or Polish it,
Use it what ever the weather
Drive like Colin Mcrae (Flat out)
By 2009 it had done 100,000 and looked like it had done 200,000
Was offered to me for more than I wanted to pay, and traded in for another new focus. for £1200
I think the only way to make it worth your while is to have something worth having and hold onto it for 30 years. Like maybe an RS focus or a GSI astra ?
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I think the only way to make it worth your while is to have something worth having and hold onto it for 30 years. Like maybe an RS focus or a GSI astra ?
But that only works if you don't want to drive the bloody thing. I mean, even a paultry 2000 miles a year would make a car sub optimal by the age of 30+yrs. my father's e-type has done 78,000 miles in its 49yrs on this earth and he's responsible for over 1/3 of them in the last decade or so. The sad thing is, even he's not driving it much now due to the risk of damage and he's moving it on next year in favour of something more usable.
If you want a museum piece, buy a car and put it in a heated garage, drive it only to the MOT station and back and to whatever specialist you choose to maintain it.
Otherwise, take reasonable care of it, get your arse on the leather (trousers optional ;D) and get it driven 8)
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I think the only way to make it worth your while is to have something worth having and hold onto it for 30 years. Like maybe an RS focus or a GSI astra ?
But that only works if you don't want to drive the bloody thing. I mean, even a paultry 2000 miles a year would make a car sub optimal by the age of 30+yrs. my father's e-type has done 78,000 miles in its 49yrs on this earth and he's responsible for over 1/3 of them in the last decade or so. The sad thing is, even he's not driving it much now due to the risk of damage and he's moving it on next year in favour of something more usable.
If you want a museum piece, buy a car and put it in a heated garage, drive it only to the MOT station and back and to whatever specialist you choose to maintain it.
Otherwise, take reasonable care of it, get your arse on the leather (trousers optional ;D) and get it driven 8)
You are so right the enjoyment comes from using cars & the memories of the drives, not cocooning them.
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Paint and upholstery products are not bad,but wildly overpriced if buying from main dealer at time of car purchase.If you must go that route either haggle it into the deal for the car as a freebie,or buy the stuff later-even main dealer parts counters will sell you it for a whole lot less than the car salesman-and apply it yourself,it's not something you need any kind of special training to do.
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I think the only way to make it worth your while is to have something worth having and hold onto it for 30 years. Like maybe an RS focus or a GSI astra ?
But that only works if you don't want to drive the bloody thing. I mean, even a paultry 2000 miles a year would make a car sub optimal by the age of 30+yrs. my father's e-type has done 78,000 miles in its 49yrs on this earth and he's responsible for over 1/3 of them in the last decade or so. The sad thing is, even he's not driving it much now due to the risk of damage and he's moving it on next year in favour of something more usable.
If you want a museum piece, buy a car and put it in a heated garage, drive it only to the MOT station and back and to whatever specialist you choose to maintain it.
Otherwise, take reasonable care of it, get your arse on the leather (trousers optional ;D) and get it driven 8)
1968........So a 265 BHP 4.2 straight six then. How does the performance hold up today?
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Good knowledge! On your bedroom wall as a boy? Sadly his is a fhc rather rag top, st the time he bought it they were similar money, now the drop top is worth 50% more. Also his arthritis makes the fhc less accessible.
In all honesty not bad. Driving experience is very different with the 4spd box. I don't drive it often (never risk breaking anything I can't afford to buy :P) The torque makes the performance very accessible and is well equipped to Embarrass most of the mundane stuff on today's roads. Also fewer changes mean it has the edge on comparable manuals.
The likes of a golf r will have legs on it at low speed due to traction advantage but once it's rolling the lack of weight makes it very feisty.
Noise levels make it feel faster than it is. I've tried calling people from the passenger seat but at anything over 45mph it's impossible.
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Good knowledge! On your bedroom wall as a boy? Sadly his is a fhc rather rag top, st the time he bought it they were similar money, now the drop top is worth 50% more. Also his arthritis makes the fhc less accessible.
In all honesty not bad. Driving experience is very different with the 4spd box. I don't drive it often (never risk breaking anything I can't afford to buy :P) The torque makes the performance very accessible and is well equipped to Embarrass most of the mundane stuff on today's roads. Also fewer changes mean it has the edge on comparable manuals.
The likes of a golf r will have legs on it at low speed due to traction advantage but once it's rolling the lack of weight makes it very feisty.
The big 160 MPH speedo and rev counter still look great today.
Noise levels make it feel faster than it is. I've tried calling people from the passenger seat but at anything over 45mph it's impossible.
Yep.....still pretty quick today. Back in 1968 when the roads were full of Morris Oxfords and the odd Ford Anglia the E-Type must have felt like the Saturn 5. :y
The old twin cam 6 cylinder lump (3.4/3.8/4.2 was known for plenty of low down torque. :y
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Wish I had kept the '61 3.8 DHC E Type I had late 60s - better engine IMO than the later 4.2 - actually produced the same power as the 4.2 ;)
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Take it to the States to sell, should see good money :y
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Take it to the States to sell, should see good money :y
Or....advertise it on American sites, and let the lucky buyer ship it over. Doesn't cost that much, Brewer does it all the time.
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I think the current plan is to sell it through CMC on a commission basis. They charge 15% but are far more likely to get 15% more for your car than you would alone. They also do a lot of international advertising and do ship cars all over the world.
If you fancy a quick drool, here's their current selection:
http://www.classic-motor-cars.co.uk/classic-cars-for-sale (http://www.classic-motor-cars.co.uk/classic-cars-for-sale)
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I think the current plan is to sell it through CMC on a commission basis. They charge 15% but are far more likely to get 15% more for your car than you would alone. They also do a lot of international advertising and do ship cars all over the world.
If you fancy a quick drool, here's their current selection:
http://www.classic-motor-cars.co.uk/classic-cars-for-sale (http://www.classic-motor-cars.co.uk/classic-cars-for-sale)
For a paltry £110,000 the Gordon Keeble looks tempting. Is is me or have the rear lights been pinched from a Rover 2000/2200/3500?
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I think the current plan is to sell it through CMC on a commission basis. They charge 15% but are far more likely to get 15% more for your car than you would alone. They also do a lot of international advertising and do ship cars all over the world.
If you fancy a quick drool, here's their current selection:
http://www.classic-motor-cars.co.uk/classic-cars-for-sale (http://www.classic-motor-cars.co.uk/classic-cars-for-sale)
For a paltry £110,000 the Gordon Keeble looks tempting. Is is me or have the rear lights been pinched from a Rover 2000/2200/3500?
Morris 1100,I very much like that although parts must be a bastard to get as its as rare as rocking horse poo
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http://www.ado16.info/feamormk1.shtml
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Morris 1100,I very much like that although parts must be a bastard to get as its as rare as rocking horse poo
If you're the kind of person to wastespend £110,000 on that .. I'm guessing you can afford to have anything that needs to be made, made! You wouldn't even trouble yourself with it - you'd just have your existing classic car maintainer look after it for you and hand over the keys if you wanted to, heaven forbid, drive it out of their hermetically sealed, climate controlled storage facility :D
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http://www.ado16.info/feamormk1.shtml
So you spend £5000 in 1964 ( the cost of 2 houses) and end up with rear lights from a poxy Austin 1100. :-\
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http://www.ado16.info/feamormk1.shtml (http://www.ado16.info/feamormk1.shtml)
So you spend £5000 in 1964 ( the cost of 2 houses) and end up with rear lights from a poxy Austin 1100. :-\
No different to Bristol using Superminx taillights, or Hillman Hunter ones on an Aston Martin - both of which dramatically increase the price of usable ones.
Plenty of posh cars use generic Lucas lamps, look at the back of a Cobra.
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Yup. Land Rover spares places were my main hunting ground when renewing the ones on my kit car. About 1/2 price compared to dedicated kit car suppliers. :y
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http://www.ado16.info/feamormk1.shtml
So you spend £5000 in 1964 ( the cost of 2 houses) and end up with rear lights from a poxy Austin 1100. :-\
I seem to remember a sports car in the distant past that had the rear round light housings of a Mk1 Cortina saloon. :D :D
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http://www.ado16.info/feamormk1.shtml
So you spend £5000 in 1964 ( the cost of 2 houses) and end up with rear lights from a poxy Austin 1100. :-\
Do you remember the Austin Vandam Plas with a 1300 engine:
(http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk247/lizziefreeman/Vanden-Plas%20Princess%201300%20front_1.jpg)
These were very pricey at the time, and those that drove around in them thought they were posh. All they were was a upgraded 1100! ::) ;D ;D ;D
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I had the dubious honour of owning the 1100, maxi and princess. I was a glutton for punishment :(
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http://www.ado16.info/feamormk1.shtml (http://www.ado16.info/feamormk1.shtml)
So you spend £5000 in 1964 ( the cost of 2 houses) and end up with rear lights from a poxy Austin 1100. :-\
I seem to remember a sports car in the distant past that had the rear round light housings of a Mk1 Cortina saloon. :D :D
TVR Vixen.
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http://www.ado16.info/feamormk1.shtml (http://www.ado16.info/feamormk1.shtml)
So you spend £5000 in 1964 ( the cost of 2 houses) and end up with rear lights from a poxy Austin 1100. :-\
I seem to remember a sports car in the distant past that had the rear round light housings of a Mk1 Cortina saloon. :D :D
TVR Vixen.
Yep,was watching a few of them the other night from the Goodwood members meet :y
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http://www.ado16.info/feamormk1.shtml
So you spend £5000 in 1964 ( the cost of 2 houses) and end up with rear lights from a poxy Austin 1100. :-\
Do you remember the Austin Vandam Plas with a 1300 engine:
(http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk247/lizziefreeman/Vanden-Plas%20Princess%201300%20front_1.jpg)
These were very pricey at the time, and those that drove around in them thought they were posh. All they were was a upgraded 1100! ::) ;D ;D ;D
They were quite nice at the time,certainly better than the VDP Allegro that followed
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http://www.ado16.info/feamormk1.shtml (http://www.ado16.info/feamormk1.shtml)
So you spend £5000 in 1964 ( the cost of 2 houses) and end up with rear lights from a poxy Austin 1100. :-\
I seem to remember a sports car in the distant past that had the rear round light housings of a Mk1 Cortina saloon. :D :D
TVR Vixen.
That's the one!! :y :y
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http://www.ado16.info/feamormk1.shtml
So you spend £5000 in 1964 ( the cost of 2 houses) and end up with rear lights from a poxy Austin 1100. :-\
Do you remember the Austin Vandam Plas with a 1300 engine:
(http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk247/lizziefreeman/Vanden-Plas%20Princess%201300%20front_1.jpg)
These were very pricey at the time, and those that drove around in them thought they were posh. All they were was a upgraded 1100! ::) ;D ;D ;D
They were quite nice at the time,certainly better than the VDP Allegro that followed
Yes, at least they had CHARACTER; the last BMC, later BL, cars that did! :D
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I had the dubious honour of owning the 1100, maxi and princess. I was a glutton for punishment :(
You poor soul. I would have jumped off a bridge! ;D ;D ;D
I reckoned I was soooo lucky to be driving around in Mk3/4 &5 Ford Cortina's ;D ;D ;D ;D ;)
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I had the dubious honour of owning the 1100, maxi and princess. I was a glutton for punishment :(
You poor soul. I would have jumped off a bridge! ;D ;D ;D
I reckoned I was soooo lucky to be driving around in Mk3/4 &5 Ford Cortina's ;D ;D ;D ;D ;)
Th Mk5 Cortina was more a Mk4A really. Very few differences.
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I had the dubious honour of owning the 1100, maxi and princess. I was a glutton for punishment :(
You poor soul. I would have jumped off a bridge! ;D ;D ;D
I reckoned I was soooo lucky to be driving around in Mk3/4 &5 Ford Cortina's ;D ;D ;D ;D ;)
Th Mk5 Cortina was more a Mk4A really. Very few differences.
But it was a better looking motor, with plastic corners to the bumpers, and upgraded plastic wheel nut covers! ::) ::) ;D ;D
PS and mine was a lovely deep ocean blue! :D
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Ford never made a Mk5 Cortina,if I remember rightly it was the Cortina80 or something along those lines.In the early '60's dad had a new VdP Princess 3L,gloss black with a gold coachline and a very,very red interior!He had it 2 months before refusing to take it back from the dealers after they'd installed it's 3rd new gearbox :o He went back to Humber Supersnipes after that until they stopped making them in '67.They were replaced every 2yrs as they were company[he worked for his father]cars.
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Ford never made a Mk5 Cortina,if I remember rightly it was the Cortina80 or something along those lines.In the early '60's dad had a new VdP Princess 3L,gloss black with a gold coachline and a very,very red interior!He had it 2 months before refusing to take it back from the dealers after they'd installed it's 3rd new gearbox :o He went back to Humber Supersnipes after that until they stopped making them in '67.They were replaced every 2yrs as they were company[he worked for his father]cars.
When I had my new MkV the Ford dealerships were calling it that. They knew it would be the last Cortina, and they were dressing them up with extras to clear the stocks. :y
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I had the dubious honour of owning the 1100, maxi and princess. I was a glutton for punishment :(
You poor soul. I would have jumped off a bridge! ;D ;D ;D
I reckoned I was soooo lucky to be driving around in Mk3/4 &5 Ford Cortina's ;D ;D ;D ;D ;)
Th Mk5 Cortina was more a Mk4A really. Very few differences.
A roof that's about 30mm higher is quite a big difference! Although the estates were the same.
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I had the dubious honour of owning the 1100, maxi and princess. I was a glutton for punishment :(
You poor soul. I would have jumped off a bridge! ;D ;D ;D
I reckoned I was soooo lucky to be driving around in Mk3/4 &5 Ford Cortina's ;D ;D ;D ;D ;)
Th Mk5 Cortina was more a Mk4A really. Very few differences.
A roof that's about 30mm higher is quite a big difference! Although the estates were the same.
Yes, we had estates :y
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But looking after it carefully will probably mean that it will become an ornament well before it is worn out unless it is electric and self driving, due to a combination of tree-huggers and health and safety, where self driving cars will end up being at least x10 safer than human driven ones by the mid-2020's. Human car safety is also not going to get better with an aging population and humans causing most of the accidents, will mean they will be banned.
The safety battle lines are already being drawn by Telsa where their current auto assist cars are x3 safer and with their next generation auto-assist coming out later this year they reckon this is going to massively improve things further.
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I'd have to agree. The fewer humans operating cars, the safer we will all become on the roads. TBH I welcome it. With commuting as it is today on our small island, I would like nothing better than to gain several hours each week where I could finish up work, read the paper or have a kip while my car took me to my destination.
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The small matter of it bringing about the end of personal freedom as we know it is somewhat concerning to me.
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The small matter of it bringing about the end of personal freedom as we know it is somewhat concerning to me.
You are so right, Albs. Progress can be fantastic, if people want to progress. People enjoy driving, but where's the fun in robotic automobiles? I might go as far as driving an electric car. In fact, I think I'd like it. But that would be me driving it, not a computer.
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I'm a bit OCD about being in control of driving my car. I even switch off TC - when I remember, and would switch off ABS if I could and if it didn't invalidate my insurance. :y
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I think the old bastards among us hate the idea of losing control. :y The younger generation seem more compliant. :-\
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I'm a bit OCD about being in control of driving my car. I even switch off TC - when I remember, and would switch off ABS if I could and if it didn't invalidate my insurance. :y
I wouldn't be brave enough to switch off TC in my 1.4 na astra and unleash all that power without electronic control. ;D
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I think the old bastards among us hate the idea of losing control. :y The younger generation seem more compliant. :-\
I wouldn't want to give up driving for pleasure. But in the uk today, there is no pleasure to be had in commuting for many, including myself.
Also, with regard to personal freedom, if you have a chauffeur, digital or physical, you are still free to go where you want when you choose. If the computers can be proved to be safer than a human, maintaining control of the vehicle is arguing that The desire to operate the controls of the vehicle yourself should trump the safety of other road users.
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We cant remove all risk from life. And if we try, we end up becoming the robots.
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I agree. There always has to be a risk/benefit trade-off.
Where the balance of a desire to operate the controls of your own vehicle trumps the increased safety margin that ceding control to a computer gives you lies is an open question.
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We have become more risk averse as the years pass.
The 'snowflake generation' as they have become known being a prime example.