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Please play nicely.  No one wants to listen/read a keyboard warriors rants....

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Topics - Webby the Bear

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196
General Car Chat / Learning ECU query
« on: 29 June 2015, 20:45:46 »
So. I decided to do a little experiment.

For a couple of weeks I'd drive like miss daisy and drive real slow. After this period I'd take the car out and give it a thrashing and see how the power was delivered. After this time it definitely felt like it was a bit lethargic.

For the next couple of weeks I thrashed the car literally revving the nuts off it and flooring it everywhere  ;D I then after the same time did the same experiment and it certainly felt more responsive in the same conditions.

Now I like to rely on facts and evidence and 'feelings' are a bit untangle able so is this placebo or is this a real case of seeing the learning ECU in action?

My next question is if this learning ECU stuff is correct how does it learn the drivers style?

197
General Car Chat / Floating crank 'n' cams
« on: 24 June 2015, 21:09:46 »
Right then chaps. Getting myself all confused  ::)

A while ago I posted about timing belts and how to do them and I gained a lot of knowledge so thanks for that.

Mentions in that thread was the 'floating' cam and crank sprockets I.e. The sprockets not keyed to the cams or crank and thus when loosened they'll just spin.

So speaking to the head mechanic about the ford set up. . . Really easy he says... Lock the crank with the pin in the block and lock the dual cams with the bar. Loosen the cam pulleys and then you can fit belt and use floating cams to pull the slack out of the drive side and then tension. Job done.

I completely get that and that makes perfect sense.

My question is purely for my own curiosity so don't worry I'm not going to go out and ruin anyone's engine  ;D

But. Is it possible to...
Remove crank bolt
Remove harmonic balancer
Put bolt back in (as you would do for a normal non 'floating crank'
Tippex marks for crank and cam a not loosen cam bolts
Fit belt
Tension

Is that possible?

198
General Car Chat / Power Probe III.
« on: 19 June 2015, 21:59:13 »
Renault Megane came in today. Chap said that none of his fan blower settings worked. Tried them all out and yup, none of them worked.

The guy had already got the glove box out to gain access to the blower motor so just needed us to see if it was a new blower motor needed.

Was about to whip out my trusty multi meter and check for voltage going to the motor. But i thought, hang on, one of the mechanics is always banging on about the power probe so I thought I'd borrow it for this.

At first I was a bit unsure of how to use it but once I got the hang of it it was a piece of piss.

Simply connect it to the 12v ciggy socket and shove the 'sharp' end in to the connector wires whilst it's still connected (and the fan switch activated, on full blow in this case) showed three ground wires and one live wire with full battery voltage going to it. So new blower motor presumably.

One question though. . . And please bear in mind electrics aren't my forte. . . I know the very very very rough basics. . .

If I'd disconnected the connected, put my power probe on the live terminal of the motor and press the button, am I right in thinking the probe would have delivered battery voltage and I can manually activate the motor to check its function?

199
Omega General Help / Lumpy idle for first couple of minutes
« on: 16 June 2015, 13:18:11 »
As above, start the car and the idle is jumping around,

Two mins later it's settled right down but still kinda ticks over between 4 and 5 hundred rpm.

This coincides with what sounds like an exhaust leak.

Is it correct that an exhaust leak can cause this? I'm presuming only an exhaust leak pre O2 sensors would do this?

Had a look for vac leaks. . . None at all. And all vac lines on he correct order as per marks guide,

Would the disappearance of the lumpy idle suggest its a small leak that's ckosing up when it gets warmed up?

200
Omega General Help / TC and auto box removal question
« on: 14 June 2015, 11:37:17 »
Hi guys

Quick question...

I've never removed an auto gearbox in my life.

I have however heard people recommend taking the torque converter and box out as one.

Now my understanding being that the torque converter is in the bell housing so would you not just remove the box as normal and the TC will come with it?

If for arguments sake one wanted to remove the box and leave the TC in I'm wondering how that's even possible? As the TC must be bolted to the gearbox?

Is there an access plate or something at the bottom where you can access the TC bolts? Presume you just turn the engine over to get at each one?

Again, not that I would go against recommended removal but I was just curious as to even if that was possible to leave TC in place?

201
.....and it didn't blow up  ;D

In fact sounded really nice after.

Interesting thing was that I got it to approx. TDC then made my own marks on cam and crank and when I set the tension I was expecting to have to back the crank off to compensate for the tension. But nope, just kept them lined up, tensioned, turned it over and was bang on the monies  :y

Took me around 5 hours.

Very, very pleased. Got my sights on the 3rd now.

Also, I'm trying to do everything I can to not have help with stuff and fix upcoming problems myself. In the week not had a single bit of help. I'm getting there   :y

202
Ok, so I got it wrong  :-[

Cam belt on my car sounds fine without aux belt. Changed aux belt and pulley today but the noise is coming from the water pump. Got loooooads of play.

Is there a way to ensure the water pump comes off without getting it on the cam belt or realistically shall I just stick a new kit on?

Current cam belt kit was put on under two years ago and has ten thousand miles on.

203
General Car Chat / Ford stretch aux belts
« on: 06 June 2015, 20:20:34 »
...had a Focus come in on Friday. I did the wishbones and the brakes. Then anaux belt was plonked on my tool cart. ''ooooh I hope that's not a stretch belt, you'll be there forever'' said one of the mechanics.

in the end I inserted a 13mm long bolt in to the tensioner, this slackened it and I was easily able to fit the new belt.

however wtf is a stretch type belt? never even heard of one  :-\

204
Omega General Help / V6 cambelt lock tool...
« on: 06 June 2015, 19:58:59 »
I'm going to purchase this at some point and can get a laser one on t'internet for around £75.

I vaguely remember someone saying the laser one was to be avoided. if ive got that right, whats the problem with this kit? And anyone know what IS the good one to use?

205
Omega General Help / Aux belt tensioner warning signs...
« on: 03 June 2015, 17:37:42 »
Had a bit of a squeaking from up front today. Had a feel round the aux pulleys and the tensioner pulley has a little bit of play in it. not enough play to make a tapping noise when I pull on it. but a touch of play no less.

I presume it's not meant to? thus really needs replacing?

206
Sai removal.

I asked this question ages ago and I know I need to block off the pipes coming out the exhaust manifolds. Got some plumbers end stops that fit. Great.

However what I didn't ask was this. . .

Where I disconnect the tube from the air injection valve. . . Do I blank this off also?

Soz guys but it's been a real long day   :-*

207
General Car Chat / Cylinder block theory Q's
« on: 02 June 2015, 19:13:21 »
So, chatting to a buddy today and convo got to upgraded Pistons and general block work.

This, as usual  ::) ,posed a few questions if anyone would care to help a bear out  ::)

1.) honing - my understanding of this is where you are essentially 'roughing up' the bore surface to create tiny little places where oil wil stick to. Is this right, what situation would this be necessary and is the surface not already like that or is it smooth?

2.) boring - yes, my posts are I know  ::) is this where you increase the perimeter of the bore to accommodate new, bigger Pistons? Of course I can see why you'd do that but what other considerations are there other than "throwing in new rods"? I presume you'd have to machine a bigger cylinder head area? I assume you'd also have to upgrade your bearing shells, caps and bolts also? Any other considerations?

3.) bore measurements - I did this a couple of times in college with a DTI ( if that's right). So this is obviously straight forward in that you're measuring and comparing diameter against spec. However is it possible that the bores have increased in size? If so why would that be?

4.) adding a sleeve - is this when the bore has increased so much (leaving combustion leaks) and a sleeve put in to effectively bring back the original piston diameter / perimeter size

Tia  :y


208
General Car Chat / What's your favourite tool?
« on: 01 June 2015, 21:34:20 »
As above.

I think ive now used most car mechanics tools, and sampled some of the more specialist tools.

But out of my tool kit I'd say by far it's a choice between:

Makita 18v cordless impact gun. This thing usually blasts any nut loose, takes ten mins to charge from empty and is light enough to use. I've also dropped it from about 4ft on a number of occasions and it's been fine. Love it.

Secondly. . . My 600mm 1/2" sealey ratchet. Flex head with a stop. It's just so nice. So much leverage. Really nice smooth ratchet.

Finally. My halfords 1/4" ratchet and deep socket combo. This just feels nice especially when working on pollen filter housing bolts. Can't tell u why but love it.

What's yours?

209
..as above, I have these two sitting in the garage from the piston-valve meet a couple of years back. is it worth fitting new guides, seals and valves or will that be silly expensive?

if so is scrapping an option? Are they worth anything? or shall I just launch them down the tip?

tIA

210
General Car Chat / Morrisons car wash
« on: 31 May 2015, 13:21:03 »
Cleaning / detailing is really not my forte. But I do like a nice clean motor. I've been so busy of late that the omega has been a little neglected in this area. And to add to the grime and dirt I park under a blossom tree at work and everyday it's covered.

So dash in to morrisons garage, see the 'bronze' car wash for £2.99. Great.

Nope. Was absolute rubbish. It was so bad in fact I still have bird shite and unbelievably blossom still on the car 8) :o

So pay the extra £7 and taking it to the polish up near home base for a proper job.

Thumbs down for morrisons

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