Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: countrywoman on 17 August 2020, 16:56:46
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So using a Omega est as a donner I have been building this 51 Austin, thought you might like a look as we all like photos!!
(https://i.imgur.com/vLTrTBk.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/PLs7IA3.jpg)Smart car axle tube with Astra Watts linkage onto Omega rear hubs . (https://i.imgur.com/L14BQqi.jpg) Bit tight , intake will have to sit over top of engine so need some rams horn pipes making .
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Pictures need resizing.
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yes!!! will see what this computer numpty can do.(https://i.imgur.com/vLTrTBkm.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/PLs7IA3m.jpg)
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Interesting project :y
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Should make a nice ride with abs , air suspension .
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I do like it.
Have a picture of an X30XE and manual gearbox in an MGB:
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/xh4b3ltwxovifnc/MGBMOTd-01.jpg?raw=1)
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/yawpubak1642kl5/IMG_20200327_201101.jpg?raw=1)
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Can't see many jubilee clips in that engine bay....only 2 in fact..... :D
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yes!!! will see what this computer numpty can do.(https://i.imgur.com/vLTrTBkm.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/PLs7IA3m.jpg)
Respect to you for doing all that (that some claim us ladies cannot do!!!!! ::) ::) ::) :P :P)
My first car was an 1960 Austin A40, Farina bodied, so I can just imagine what I could have done with that having the Omega parts, and 3.2 engine, available to me today!! ;D ;D ;D ;D
Knowing what condition my A40's chassis was then ( rotted and separated from the body!!) will you have to strengthen it for the Omega engine in addition to the welding I can see you have done all ready? ??? ???
:y :y
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Can't see many jubilee clips in that engine bay....only 2 in fact..... :D
I didn't assemble it.
Some of those spring clamps have never been off the engine since I bought it.
Every heater hose is attached with Jubilees....
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This is a 1951 Devon so has a separate chassis, the A40 Farina was a rebodied A35 of unitary construction . Old enough to have worked on these when apprentice.
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Can't see many jubilee clips in that engine bay....only 2 in fact..... :D
I didn't assemble it.
Some of those spring clamps have never been off the engine since I bought it.
Every heater hose is attached with Jubilees....
That's controversial! :o ::) ;D
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Can't see many jubilee clips in that engine bay....only 2 in fact..... :D
I didn't assemble it.
Some of those spring clamps have never been off the engine since I bought it.
Every heater hose is attached with Jubilees....
That's controversial! :o ::) ;D
The heater, valve and their plumbing are stock MGB. One of the engine connections is stock X30. The other is on the new water rail, sized to fit the old hose and placed where we needed it to be. That makes one connection that is 'corrupted' by the Jubilee clamp; the others are correct ;D
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Think I can just get away without moding water rail , just enough room to get a 90 bend on to clear inner wing. Problem I have is not enough room to fit intake between rad and engine. Only solution I can think is some "rams horn" pipes with intake sat over top of engine .
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This is a 1951 Devon so has a separate chassis, the A40 Farina was a rebodied A35 of unitary construction . Old enough to have worked on these when apprentice.
Impressive! 8) 8) :y :y
I loved working on my A40, but I had to just to keep it going!! ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Think I can just get away without moding water rail , just enough room to get a 90 bend on to clear inner wing. Problem I have is not enough room to fit intake between rad and engine. Only solution I can think is some "rams horn" pipes with intake sat over top of engine .
Lose the multirams, no need for ducting between the rad and engine then. You could also consider a 2.5/early 3.0.plenum which is shorter
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Got told on here that it wont work without intake flap ------
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Got told on here that it wont work without intake flap ------
It will work, but not as well as if all the parts are fitted.
The MGB I posted has the multirams fitted, but we had to remake the lower box they, and the airflow meter sit on. This was for a number of reasons: the alternator is reverse mounted(only way we could get it in); the AFM would normally fit in that space; the box hung below the crossmember and wanted to be in the same place as the anti-rollbar. The new one is made of 75mm soil pipe and 90degree fittings, with the working parts of the AFM inserted on the passenger side. It all works with no issues.
So if you can find somewhere to put the multi-rams, the rest can be routed to it.
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The front multiram valve is about the same size as the throttle body, the rear one is part of the plenum, so no issues there :y
Alternatively you can fit the plenum from the Vectra 3.2 as that doesn't have multirams... Everthing else is the same ;)
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Okay so what about the ECU .
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Just tie off the multiram plugs, possibly use a resistor in the plugs if the eml is a problem.
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Or, as a thought...
A pair of cone filters under each headlight, and place the front multiram just ahead of the throttle body with each intake feed following the shape of the radiator to the top...
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Or, as a thought...
A pair of cone filters under each headlight, and place the front multiram just ahead of the throttle body with each intake feed following the shape of the radiator to the top...
Won't work, the multiram positioning is critical as its placed at a tuned resonant length in the inlet. If you can't get it in the correct position then its best binned (1K resistor is the DTC check, there is one soldered on the back of the connector in the vac solenoid) :y
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Or, as a thought...
A pair of cone filters under each headlight, and place the front multiram just ahead of the throttle body with each intake feed following the shape of the radiator to the top...
Won't work, the multiram positioning is critical as its placed at a tuned resonant length in the inlet. If you can't get it in the correct position then its best binned (1K resistor is the DTC check, there is one soldered on the back of the connector in the vac solenoid) :y
There you are then :y
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cheers, have a plan.
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cheers, have a plan.
Stick a tail on it and call it Foxy ;)
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used the Omega latches for doors, made some fancy handles. doing lots of body work, remade rear of chassis and incorporated the removable tow bar socket from the Omega. Need some bits that I should have kept , the bit inside the fuel tank that the pump/fuel sender fits to and looks like I have front window mech and rear door inner mounting (WTF) . No Omegas in scrappy (did get an Insignia fuel flap though) so stuck. Cant post in wanted as I need to make a million posts before allowed :( , Have the 4 alloys and steel spare up for grabs, reasonable tyres if somewhat old.
(https://i.imgur.com/6sutnOx.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/s2qA9Xz.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/X7wtXjp.jpg)
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resize didnt work (https://i.imgur.com/6sutnOxm.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/s2qA9Xzm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/X7wtXjpm.jpg)
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If you stick a wanted add in the test zone, an admin may kindly move it for you as you aren't selling :y
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Untangled the Omega wiring loom, had to see where it would run. Will have to replace the 2 big multi plugs with some smaller ones and take out stuff thats not used. Using Omega steering column as it fits spot on, trouble is the lads working for me at the time destroyed the column switch gear and its mountings and cut the plug off removing the steering lock . Will be on the look out for some soon and a steering wheel hub for after market wheel.
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After weeks of work I have a box of redundant cables and plugs, replaced the 2 big multi connectors and "loomed " up into groups where I could. Strange way they run lots of cables to connection behind dash as in there are 2 ign live wires running all the way from behind dash to under bonnet and earths do the same. Next job is sorting rad fan relays as only one needed and removing A/C relay plugs.(https://i.imgur.com/PrOSskZm.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/nU12KaHm.jpg)
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Multiple ground runs and supply will be part of the FMEA results for safety etc, this is also why certain modules will have two power supply pins and the like. :y
Its also done to reduce EMC issues
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Multiple ground runs and supply will be part of the FMEA results for safety etc, this is also why certain modules will have two power supply pins and the like. :y
Its also done to reduce EMC issues
I was just going to post that, but you beat me to it, young 'un. ;D
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Multiple ground runs and supply will be part of the FMEA results for safety etc, this is also why certain modules will have two power supply pins and the like. :y
Its also done to reduce EMC issues
I was just going to post that, but you beat me to it, young 'un. ;D
You wish. 8)
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Sorted a lot out, shortened down some of the runs . Made the centre locking / window wiring into a separate loom , electric mirror and speaker wires still to sort out/remove.
My next mission is to make a box for ECU or see if wires will go through bulkhead so ECU can be fitted inside, its all a bit tight( ooh matron) but have to fit heater fan first.
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Not been to my lockup all week , too bloody cold!!! and cant afford £10 a day on fuel for space heater, should be okay tomorrow. Going to try test rig on centre locking --------------
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Why did Vauxhall/Opal use an odd as wheel stud size, sent me on a merry chase trying to find some 4.5 x 15 rims. Ended up getting some Weller smooth centres of the bay , NOS? custom made with Jag 4.75 in x 5 PCD so will have to get front hubs redrilled --------Good job I know a man that can.
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Why did Vauxhall/Opal use an odd as wheel stud size, sent me on a merry chase trying to find some 4.5 x 15 rims. Ended up getting some Weller smooth centres of the bay , NOS? custom made with Jag 4.75 in x 5 PCD so will have to get front hubs redrilled --------Good job I know a man that can.
Why do you think it's odd?
5x110 PCD isn't uncommon
and the M12x1.5 studs are European standard.
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IT is if you want 4.5 x 15 rims!! sorted now
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IT is if you want 4.5 x 15 rims!! sorted now
Why on earth would you want such skinny wheels with 200+ bhp :-\
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IT is if you want 4.5 x 15 rims!! sorted now
Why on earth would you want such skinny wheels with 200+ bhp :-\
There isn't a lot of space under a '50s Austin.
Another thing to remember is that old cars don't weigh very much, and wide tyres on light cars make for a horrible drive: you seem to have lots of grip, until suddenly there is none. And that's in the dry.
Ian's MGB is on stock 5x14 wheels with 185/70 Avons....
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Fair enough, it's easy to forget that wide wheels were once a novelty rather than the norm...
185/195 were considered to be the wider end of the spectrum for normal cars. Now 225 is pretty much the standard.
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To keep the ABS happy running 165 x15 front and 235/45 / 17s on rear on Saab rims. Have found some Weller smooth centre rims for front (NOS custom made!!) but Jag stud pattern 4.75 in PCD so looks like hubs will get machined.
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To keep the ABS happy running 165 x15 front and 235/45 / 17s on rear on Saab rims. Have found some Weller smooth centre rims for front (NOS custom made!!) but Jag stud pattern 4.75 in PCD so looks like hubs will get machined.
Why not modify the wheels? Fit the centres that match your suspension to the barrels that match the car.
Your mix of old and new wheel/tyre sizes is going to look very peculiar, have you considered using a 15 or 16" tyre on the back with a similar rolling radius to the 235/45 17? The stock Omega tyre sizes in those diameters would be a good start.
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The A40 Countryman from the early ‘50s was my first car. It was OK until the crankshaft broke :'(
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Well its coming along slowly, still doing body work. Had to alter the master/servo cylinder fitting angle to get clutch pedal to clear bulkhead with room for carpet and then rework the Omega pedals for angle. Needed some insulated mountings for the heater fan and in my box of wonders discovered a exhaust? bracket with GM on the rubbers, it might have come off the Omega. So a cut and weld and 2 bits of off cut bolt threaded sections welded to under dash cross brace works well.
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Back on the wiring, detangled a lot of dash loom and shortened the bit that goes to engine by fitting some plugs. Moved relay box to left of dash . Today will be sorting and shortening the wires that I put plugs on that went to the original connector blocks ow that I know where the loom is fitting. Took about 2 foot or more from engine loom , main feed wire is going over to bulkhead connector on r/h as battery wire runs from rear to starter . Well its keeping the grey matter active !!
Lost the list I made of the connections for brake pipes to ABS unit , manual is no help as not even a photo. Have put a help post up but no response yet.
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replied to your help post
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Cheers, did some more wiring today. My pile of discarded cable is getting larger!!
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Well central locking now works just needs a remote, have to check window motors work. The indicator switch is duff for r/h side , need to find why there is no feed to wiper fuse . Had to disconnect parking light wires as they dont work proper with Golf light switch (back feed) no great loss. Forgot to work out reverse light wires and the heated rear window switch not working , was going to use it to power air ride pump. Horns work!!!
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Excellent progress :y
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You certainly seem to know what you are doing girl :y :y
Very impressed 8) 8)
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Well duff fuse on wiper feed, it looked and tested fine across top . window motors work, joined the red wire to black wire so it now works with ign on. sorted a load more stuff as well and refitted dash to check fuse and relay box mounts, switch and clocks cables reach etc.
Never had a problem with electrics (50 years as a mechanic) but electronics----------
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well hopefully will finish dash wiring today, did a final detangle yesterday. Laid dash loom out on a length of old work top and managed to get 95% of wires to run without crossing. Had to cut one as it was rapped around the rest of cables 3 times and ended up removing 4ins from it!!! Can bundle it all up now after another test , have some old school loom tape to tidy things with. Ordered a remote locking kit as well .
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After it worked last time the central locking wont lock again , spent ages wire chasing and its all fine. Remote lock kit turned up today so if I can work out how to wire it will see if that works.
Bloody inter net has gone on a go slow, cant load pics up for ABS (insert swear word of your choice)
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Central locking sorted, I might have got the wrong brown wire with a red trace ------------(well there is 3) . Hawk remote fitted and works fine but needed to refit the relay that flashes indicators. Now all I need is a chip for the key.
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So did a compression test, engine has sat since cambelt jumped nearly 20years.slight oil in o/s plug holes n/s full up to the top!!!! Cleaned it all out as best I could and put some oil down the bores then spun it over with plugs out, did test and found nos 1, 2 and 4 have no compression at all the other 3 are fine . At least it will be only a few valves then.
Think I have worked out the ABS pipe layout , fitted bonnet and found rib inside is fouling brake res . Bit of relief work and maybe if I can find one a thinner res ? Worked out intake pipe work, just need someone to make some tubing up with a very tight radius.
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So did a compression test, engine has sat since cambelt jumped nearly 20years.slight oil in o/s plug holes n/s full up to the top!!!! Cleaned it all out as best I could and put some oil down the bores then spun it over with plugs out, did test and found nos 1, 2 and 4 have no compression at all the other 3 are fine . At least it will be only a few valves then.
Think I have worked out the ABS pipe layout , fitted bonnet and found rib inside is fouling brake res . Bit of relief work and maybe if I can find one a thinner res ? Worked out intake pipe work, just need someone to make some tubing up with a very tight radius.
If the cambelt has jumped then there will be bent valves, not to bad a job (just a long one) as the head and valve stems rarely suffer as a result.
Oil will be the cam covers leaking so check the breathers also :y
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It will have a full top end rebuild and all the seals on bottom end renewed , paint job and Vectra sump fitting correctly as it was just stuck on to test engine fit.
Have worked out intake route and its the same length as Omega but will curl back over cam covers with a plenum at rear and pipe with airflow meter coming back up centre of engine to airbox/filter housing in front of engine .
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So with a bit of head scratching and a bit of "luck" I managed to get the Morris Marina Lucas wiper motor working from the Omega switch with flick wipe/wash and variable delay. On the switch there is a feed from relay to speed one when switch is in off or delay (so of course wiper ran all the time) but by breaking this wire and connecting it through the park switch it works. Then joined the delay feed to the switch side of this wire and it worked (stands back in amassment ) so looks like thats all the wiring sorted till it goes in for final time, just stuff like lights, interior lights, accessory sockets ,radio to finalise but all the feeds are there.
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It would be nice to see some new pictures of this build
sounds like you are working your way through the issues "one chunk at a time" :)
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TBH its not looking much different from previous pics , will post some when there is some more visible progress. Next job is getting roll bar made ,seat belt mounts done and body sides glued in place . After that the front suspension/hub PCD adaptors and tyres then body off , finish welding under body, finish weld chassis, finish rear suspension -------------- you get the idea!!
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Well progress made , last night some of the folks from hot rod club gave me a hand to drop body onto my wheeled trolley so it can be moved out of the way while I work on finishing chassis. Not much done to Omega bits yet , working out exhaust front sections today.
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Well dear hearts a lot has been done , body back on chassis, brake pipes made and fuel line run sorted . Painted bulkhead both sides so now have pedal box and servo/cylinders fitted as well as ABS unit. Making rear clam doors at the moment and trying to get that sorted before I have to self isolate as going into hospital for my op that will lay me up for 2 or3 months .
Mostly body work when I do return , TBH getting fed up with welding and grinding at the moment .
Found VW beetle front drum brake hose fits rear callipers and Omega front hoses will work . Time to go and grind a bit more TTFN.
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Good luck with your op and hope it works out well for you! :)
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Thanks , had the lower tailgate hinges cut out at last (took the blacksmith 2 weeks) and after spending an hour cleaning them up and shaping I managed to fit them and they work spot on . Might get some pics loaded when I am on 2 week self isolation .
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Well a lot has been going on, mostly sorting body work . ABS unit fitted, pedals and column in and things like inside floor painted. Managed to get my lads car moved out at the weekend and now have the Austin sat on the lift, rear suspension fitted yesterday . Started to fit the handbrake cable , now rear hubs have been fitted the other way round so cable has to run so the levers pull rear wards. Anyways took the rear discs off to check handbrake, its been stood for 20 years and its all free including adjusters!! Cable sorted , it was the perfect length to curve around rear suspension .
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Well after a shit load of body work and painting just the bonnet and front valance left to paint , would post some pics but Imgar is being a bugger to load (they probably what me to pay for a service !) . Then its onto the build up, have to get some alloy TIG done , intake pipes and swirl pot/pump/gauge housing to fit tank.
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So a load of jobs done, engine rebuilt and fitted, suspension sorted and just needs testing. Had to mod the floor to clear o/s down pipe, easier than altering the pipe. More pics soon when I get my act together or look on Rods&Sods in the garage section.
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So a load of jobs done, engine rebuilt and fitted, suspension sorted and just needs testing. Had to mod the floor to clear o/s down pipe, easier than altering the pipe. More pics soon when I get my act together or look on Rods&Sods in the garage section.
CBA looking on Rods and Sods, get the effin pictures up :P
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https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=137219.0
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(https://i.postimg.cc/s2tHznXF/20230401-123258.jpg)
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Bit of a faf compared to other sites I use but it did load, cosy aint it!!!
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Top hose is a bit awkward(https://i.postimg.cc/SsgrsDQN/20230401-123312.jpg)
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That'll be a hoot when it's finished! ;D ;D
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Looks great! :y
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Looks great. I don't fancy changing the spark plugs though >:D
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Well done, nice to see people’s enthusiasm there’s not a lot of it about these days
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Will need to take the n/s intake pipe off but its being built so there are silicon hoses joining the bits together. Not sure where the air filter is going yet!!
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Coming along very nicely!! 8) 8) :-* :y
Your hard work is certainly paying off, and that will be one great unique (hot rod??) jalopy :D :D ;)
Santa Pod here you go!! ;D ;D ;D :-*
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I suppose its a resto rod/street rod, not that its being built to any formula just my own take to make a good daily driver.
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Will need to take the n/s intake pipe off but its being built so there are silicon hoses joining the bits together. Not sure where the air filter is going yet!!
A big hump/air intake scoop on the bonnet which could house the air filter? :)
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No its stealth ! there will be room between the "ram horn" bits that go to the intake
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No its stealth ! there will be room between the "ram horn" bits that go to the intake
A Stealth Rod! Like it! :y
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I suppose its a resto rod/street rod, not that its being built to any formula just my own take to make a good daily driver.
Whatever badge may be applied to your creation, it will certainly be fun to drive 8) 8) :y
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All the components have turned up to make the EGR cheat, ordered some prototype board and miniature relay. Bugger pins not on same spacing as holes in board, never mind I can feel some bending happening! Just hope the resistors are correct rating cos its said as example 4K7 and it took that as meaning 47K (not that it looks like you can get one marked up as 4K7).
Not the first cheat circuit I have made, did one for my lads R1 to bypass the exhaust flap.
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4K7 is 4.7k or 4700 Ohms resistor. Can be found on Ebay
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All the components have turned up to make the EGR cheat, ordered some prototype board and miniature relay. Bugger pins not on same spacing as holes in board, never mind I can feel some bending happening! Just hope the resistors are correct rating cos its said as example 4K7 and it took that as meaning 47K (not that it looks like you can get one marked up as 4K7).
Not the first cheat circuit I have made, did one for my lads R1 to bypass the exhaust flap.
No, 47K is not 4K7. 4K7 is 4.7K.
Basically the letters R, K and M are used in place of the decimal point. R indicates ohms, K thousand ohms, and M million (meg) ohms, all followed by a decimal point. So..
4R7 = 4.7 ohms.
47R = 47.0 ohms
470R = 470.0 ohms
4K7 = 4.7 thousand ohms = 4.7K
47K = 47.0 thousand ohms = 47.0K
470K = 470.0 thousand ohms = 470.0 K
4M7 = 4.7 million ohms = 4.7M
Just be thankful you're not dealing with capacitors. 4700pF = 4.7nF = 0.0047uF.
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Never did get into electronics, had one of those build yourself simple circuits kits back in the late 60s and a few even worked!