Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: bomberdeluxe on 13 December 2018, 12:08:20
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Can someone please advise me on how to remove a battery from an O3 2.6 omega CDX?
I need to remove it so as to put the battery on charge as I have let it run down. When I tried to remove it, I took off the negative terminal strap first as advised by the hand book which should according to the book should have stopped the Power sounder going off but that didn't work which resulted in the alarm screaming like a banshee.
I am not the most technically / mechanically minded person so I would really appreciate advice please.
Graham
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Can someone please advise me on how to remove a battery from an O3 2.6 omega CDX?
I need to remove it so as to put the battery on charge as I have let it run down. When I tried to remove it, I took off the negative terminal strap first as advised by the hand book which should according to the book should have stopped the Power sounder going off but that didn't work which resulted in the alarm screaming like a banshee.
I am not the most technically / mechanically minded person so I would really appreciate advice please.
Graham
Ignition ON
Ignition OFF
Disconnect battery within 30 seconds ... this stops the power sounder going off.
I always loosen the bolts on the terminals first as it takes more than 30 seconds to undo them !!
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And bin the Powersounder.
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Cant you charge with battery in situ?
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Have you got the radio code you will need this if you disconnect the battery.
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Have you got the radio code you will need this if you disconnect the battery.
On a facelift???
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Have you got the radio code you will need this if you disconnect the battery.
On a facelift???
Depends on the radio fitted ;)
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mine certainly does :y
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Have you got the radio code you will need this if you disconnect the battery.
On a facelift???
Its only the NCDCXXXX that are Self Paired with Screen / Telematics Nick, all other HU Models fitted to Facelifts are Front Panel Coded as per norm. ;)
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Can someone please advise me on how to remove a battery from an O3 2.6 omega CDX?
I need to remove it so as to put the battery on charge as I have let it run down. When I tried to remove it, I took off the negative terminal strap first as advised by the hand book which should according to the book should have stopped the Power sounder going off but that didn't work which resulted in the alarm screaming like a banshee.
I am not the most technically / mechanically minded person so I would really appreciate advice please.
Graham
If your taking the Battery completely out of the Car, your probably need a Plan B for when the single Bolt snaps off that holding the Battery Bracket on, which it probably will if its not been removed or cared for for a while, Drill out and re Tap with a Stainless Bolt is the best method or come up with some sort of Bracket to hold the Battery back in as technically a lose Battery is an MOT Fail.
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yes that happened to me and from memory I drilled the old bolt out and replaced a bolt from underneath but I cant remember how I held that bolt in, glued it in?
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Only charge in situ if your charger specifically says it can. Most cheapy ones can't, and you run the risk of electronic damage (ask poor Mrs Chrisgixer ;D)
After batt reconnection, youu will need to reset windows and sunroof, and enter radio code back in.
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Thanks for the clarification my charger is a rather expensive one which is said to be a conditioner so maybe I have been lucky not to have caused problems.
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As my Ctek chargers came with a lead intended for permanent connection to a car battery I keep my Smart's battery on more or less permanent charge while in situ ;)
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Thanks for the clarification my charger is a rather expensive one which is said to be a conditioner so maybe I have been lucky not to have caused problems.
Some conditioners use pulse charging techniques and are therefore contra-indicated for in situ charging, so I echo what TB said and only use it in situ if it definitely says that you can.
Ron.
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Thanks Ron I will check with the manufacturer :y
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Only charge in situ if your charger specifically says it can. Most cheapy ones can't, and you run the risk of electronic damage (ask poor Mrs Chrisgixer ;D)
After batt reconnection, youu will need to reset windows and sunroof, and enter radio code back in.
As long as you disconnect one of the battery terminals first you can be fairly confident that any charger can be connected to the battery without harming the car's electronics.
Disconnect both terminals if you are particularly worried.
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Thanks for the clarification my charger is a rather expensive one which is said to be a conditioner so maybe I have been lucky not to have caused problems.
You do need to check. TBH, even with shitty chargers, 9 times out of 10 you'll get away with it. But when you don't, it can get expensive quickly
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As my Ctek chargers came with a lead intended for permanent connection to a car battery I keep my Smart's battery on more or less permanent charge while in situ ;)
I must have had half a dozen or more cteks (or different models/capacities), because everyone says they are fantastic.
Sadly, my own experience doesn't match that, and I wouldn't but another, nor have I replaced any since losing the last ones in the garage.
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My powersounder started chirping at me now and again recently :(
Having Triskaidekaphobia it was no great surprise that at about 12.30AM 13th December ,my Omega alarm sounded in all it's glory ::)
turned it off with remote a few times , even locked it with a key
(so the alarm would not arm :-\)
by 2am I had the bonnet up ,removing the wiper arms to get at the powersounder :(
Un-plugged it AND the horn sounder next to it too, just in case
I needed the Omega the next morning , so put the wipers back and left the sounder bolted in place, I will remove it (and replace the batteries /fit under and over current disconnect protection and an off switch if ,once examined/autopsied I think it's worthy) ** ,probably over crimbo
**Awaits multiple OOFers saving bin the crappy 90's electrical folly that is "the powersounder" ;D
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Remove it and drop in a bucket of water/beat to a pulp with a club hammer.
The get on with more important stuff.
Leaving it in the car, however unplugged is not recommended as the odds are firmly on the internal batteries leaking. And that corner of the bulkhead is the last place you want an battery goo...
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Remove it and drop in a bucket of water/beat to a pulp with a club hammer.
The get on with more important stuff.
Leaving it in the car, however unplugged is not recommended as the odds are firmly on the internal batteries leaking. And that corner of the bulkhead is the last place you want an battery goo...
Thank you for the Advice DG :)
I will definitely remove it soon ,did not consider the leaking batteries / potential for my Omega to become rusty :o
:D ;D
I will however dremel it open and have a look-see inside and decide if I want to up-date the guts OR
"drop in a bucket of water/beat to a pulp with a club hammer"
If only I had saved the bucket I reversed over (pre bucket avoidance camera fitting)
it would have been ideal ::)
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Nah, the club hammer is far more satisfying... But the bits go everywhere ;D
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Nah, the club hammer is far more satisfying... But the bits go everywhere ;D
at 2 am in the morning, freezing my nads off ,I did briefly consider the club or claw hammer to remove the scuttle ;D
proximity of the expensive screen ,and it being the 13th ,fortunately male logic kicked in/dictated a slower,less damaging approach :y
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There are a few different types, all look identical from the outside, but internally take different batteries etc.
TBH, not worth the effort, and with global warming and all that BS, we need to fill landfill more to raise the ground level.
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There are a few different types, all look identical from the outside, but internally take different batteries etc.
Thanks for the information :)
I can't throw something in the bin without taking it apart first ,see how it works etc ;D
TBH, not worth the effort, and with global warming and all that BS, we need to fill landfill more to raise the ground level.
I live on a hill, so not worried about global warming raising water levels :y
and, it's getting cold now, so anything we can do to warm the globe up has to be good , :P
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There are a few different types, all look identical from the outside, but internally take different batteries etc.
Thanks for the information :)
I can't throw something in the bin without taking it apart first ,see how it works etc ;D
TBH, not worth the effort, and with global warming and all that BS, we need to fill landfill more to raise the ground level.
I live on a hill, so not worried about global warming raising water levels :y
and, it's getting cold now, so anything we can do to warm the globe up has to be good , :P
Plug it back in then... :D there's enough Omega to heat the drive for at least a day...
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There are a few different types, all look identical from the outside, but internally take different batteries etc.
Thanks for the information :)
I can't throw something in the bin without taking it apart first ,see how it works etc ;D
TBH, not worth the effort, and with global warming and all that BS, we need to fill landfill more to raise the ground level.
I live on a hill, so not worried about global warming raising water levels :y
and, it's getting cold now, so anything we can do to warm the globe up has to be good , :P
Plug it back in then... :D there's enough Omega to heat the drive for at least a day...
:D ;D ;D :y
I'm Doing my bit for global warming , I've allowed Mrs Builder a lump of coal for the fire :y
the Koi are at 15 degrees in the fish house pond, even the cat has under-bed heating ::)
suspect i will be raped by the electric company early next year :P
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I have decided to put a new battery on, the present one was fitted 7 years ago. I can remember when if you got 2 years you were doing well.To prevent loss of radio etc I have in the past connected my 12 volt golf battery to the connecting leads before removing the battery.You worry me about blowing up the electronics on the car .Should I just take the battery out without a back up and then reset whatever needs doing.
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.....Should I just take the battery out without a back up and then reset whatever needs doing.
I would :y
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Remove it and drop in a bucket of water/beat to a pulp with a club hammer.
That's the best bit of advice I have seen on here for ages !! ;D ;D ;D ;
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I have decided to put a new battery on, the present one was fitted 7 years ago. I can remember when if you got 2 years you were doing well.To prevent loss of radio etc I have in the past connected my 12 volt golf battery to the connecting leads before removing the battery.You worry me about blowing up the electronics on the car .Should I just take the battery out without a back up and then reset whatever needs doing.
That is what I do.
Kevin Wood posted a guide How to fit line level outputs to a CCR2006 (http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90541.0) - in that guide he described how to switch off the need for code entry after power loss.
1) Disable code protection on the unit (optional).
I found it convenient to disable code protection on the CCR2006 before starting work. This is because I knew the unit would be in and out of the car a couple of times during the procedure and because I wanted to test it on the bench (without the MID connected!) once modified. I suspected that entering the code without a MID would not be easy.
The code can be disabled by powering up the unit with AS held down until a beep is heard, then using buttons 1,2,3 and 4 to change each of the digits displayed until the displayed code matches that on the car pass. Finally, AS should be held down once more until a beep is heard.
Removal of the code can be verified by powering up the radio and checking that "CODE" does not appear on the MID.
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Is there a guide to reset windows after battery removal? :y
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It's in the owners manual ::)
Basically, press and hold the switches down for 1-2 seconds and then up. Should hear a faint click from each door both down and up... ;)
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It's in the owners manual ::)
Basically, press and hold the switches down for 1-2 seconds and then up. Should hear a faint click from each door both down and up... ;)
They reset on just the 'up' ::) ::) ::)
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We've had this debate before, but without an Omega on the drive, we will both have to trust our memories... ;D
It is in the manual though ;)
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We've had this debate before, ....
I know ;D ;D
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thanks for the replies :y
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I have discussed with the manufacturer of my charger Gunsons 4138 the point of whether my charger can be used with the battery in situ.They say that the chance of compromising the electronics is minimal but as there is a risk they must advise always to disconnect the battery from the car.
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....
they must advise always to disconnect the battery from the car.
which is far easier said than done on some cars. My Merc's battery is under the driver's seat which effectively means removal of the seat first ???
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I have decided to put a new battery on, the present one was fitted 7 years ago. I can remember when if you got 2 years you were doing well.To prevent loss of radio etc I have in the past connected my 12 volt golf battery to the connecting leads before removing the battery.You worry me about blowing up the electronics on the car .Should I just take the battery out without a back up and then reset whatever needs doing.
You can buy a device quite cheaply that plugs into the OBD port and has two leads with crocodile clips that you connect to a spare battery / golf battery / 12v household alarm battery, which retains all settings until the new battery is fitted. It has led lights that let you know all is well to disconnect the battery.
There are others that plug into the cig lighter socket but I prefer the OBD type.
As to charging a battery on the car, I have two. Both state that the negative lead should be connected to a strong earthing point not the neg trerminal of the battery, and as far away from battery as possible, although this is dictated by the length of the leads.
Some modern cars have specific positive and negative terminals away from the battery specifically for charging / jump starting purposes.
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When purchased my car had a Blaupunkt radio fitted.I changed my battery 7 years ago but cannot remember if I had to enter a code for the radio (maybe I attached a separate battery whilst making the change) I have the Vauxhall code but no Blaupunkt code I assume that this will not be of any use.This is my reason to ask earlier about fitting a 12 volt golf battery to the battery leads whilst fitting the new battery to maintain power to the radio. Any thoughts :y
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I've attached another battery via thin cable (rather than bulky jump leads) while i swapped the battery before on my mum's car , she cleaned out the glove box and lost the code / car pass :(
no problem , provided you don't mix up polarity
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Thanks I should have added to my post that I have the Blaupunkt manual and there is no mention of codes.
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Wouldn't worry about it ;)
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many aftermarket audio systems don't have a code
google the model and the word "code"
if vauxhall blaupunkt it may be coded
I've since replaced my mum's with one i had a code for 8)
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Hello Doc. don't worry about which part, connecting another battery or not having a code :y
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Both ;)
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You can buy a device quite cheaply that plugs into the OBD port and has two leads with crocodile clips that you connect to a spare battery / golf battery / 12v household alarm battery, which retains all settings until the new battery is fitted. It has led lights that let you know all is well to disconnect the battery.
There are others that plug into the cig lighter socket but I prefer the OBD type.
Cant vouch for other Cars but on the Omega the positive on the ODB Port is direct to the Battery Positive, un Fused, so my advice if you are going to to connect any form of other Volts to it, make sure its got some form of overload protection or better still fit your own fuse inline to what ever your pluging into it.
As to charging a battery on the car, I have two. Both state that the negative lead should be connected to a strong earthing point not the neg trerminal of the battery, and as far away from battery as possible, although this is dictated by the length of the leads.
Some modern cars have specific positive and negative terminals away from the battery specifically for charging / jump starting purposes.
They say this so as to reduce the risk of sparks when connecting or discounting the Charger Clips to the Battery terminals (Possible explosion if the Battery is venting hydrogen), personally I would always connect directly connect to the battery terminals and take the risk, rather than have potential stray voltage going through the body of my Car.
I always diss one of the battery clamps so as to isolate it before connecting a Charger if charging the Battery in situ (normal the Poss, although Neg will do the job just as well) or as said before if you really wont to play it safe diss both Terminals or take the Battery out of the Car.
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Read your post Zirk I assume that I do not need a fuse if I am going to connect a 12 volt golf battery to the battery leads whilst I change the battery as a means of holding my radio code,.
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We've had this debate before, but without an Omega on the drive, we will both have to trust our memories... ;D
It is in the manual though ;)
They reset just on the up, despite what the manual may say. Just hold in the up position for a couple of seconds. Don’t forget to reset the sunroof if fitted too
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Read your post Zirk I assume that I do not need a fuse if I am going to connect a 12 volt golf battery to the battery leads whilst I change the battery as a means of holding my radio code,.
Weii I would just as a precaution, in your case your Connecting a small Golf Cart Battery directly to a bigger Omega Car Battery thats capable of delivering hundreds of Amps via some very thin wires behind the ODB Port, all sorts of potentials issues or mistakes could be about to happen.
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In the past I've connected jump leads from a donor battery to the relative vehicle battery CLAMPS, undone one clamp and tied it up clear of the battery, wrapped a rag around it to minimise any chance of it touching any metal parts and then repeated for the other clamp.
Fit the new battery, connect the clamps to the new battery, disconnect jump leads and away you go.
The positive lead is easily tied away from the battery by tying it to the bonnet strut but with the negative I find it easier to remove the plastic corner bit in front of the battery so that you have a bit more clearance to pull the negative clear of the battery and enable you to wrap a rag around it.
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Job done I read my radio handbook again and learnt that the radio had a Flip Release panel to guard against theft.Who would take that out of the car everytime the car was left.I therefore assumed that a code didn't exist.I went ahead and disconnected the battery without any backup.On reconnection radio ok set windows job done.My radio is a Blaupunkt Acapulco MP52 just incase anybody has the same unit. :y
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I remember the days (in the 1990s) I used to take the face plate of my Alpine stereo with me..
.. then I stopped, and someone promptly nicked the Alpine HU and CD changer out of the boot of my Renault 19 16v.
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There you go I must admit that the radio in my caravan has a flip panel but I have never taken it out of the caravan.I would think that a lot of damage must occur with constant removal.
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I remember the days (in the 1990s) I used to take the face plate of my Alpine stereo with me..
.. then I stopped, and someone promptly nicked the Alpine HU and CD changer out of the boot of my Renault 19 16v.
I used to religiously take out the front panel of my Kenwood back in the early 90s. As I had an Astra GTE at the time, I also used to religiously take some fuses, the HT lead, the engine management ECU as well. Once I'd put on the crocklock between the handbrake and gearstick, and the big yellow bar across the steering wheel....
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Did you have a wheelbarrow to carry it all :D
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Did you have a wheelbarrow to carry it all :D
In the 90s?
Bumbag. ;D
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And so it goes on. I went to unlock the car with the key fob and the doors unlocked and immediately locked this happened 3 or 4 times on pressing the fob and then operated normally.Is this to do with the loss of power when I changed my car battery or is it yet another problem.
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And so it goes on. I went to unlock the car with the key fob and the doors unlocked and immediately locked this happened 3 or 4 times on pressing the fob and then operated normally.Is this to do with the loss of power when I changed my car battery or is it yet another problem.
Dodgy microswitch on the OSF door lock. Or broken wiring in the door loom
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And so it goes on. I went to unlock the car with the key fob and the doors unlocked and immediately locked this happened 3 or 4 times on pressing the fob and then operated normally.Is this to do with the loss of power when I changed my car battery or is it yet another problem.
I'd say some thing in the driver's lock mechanism or the linkages to/from the lock is seized. Try the key in the door & see what happens
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As you will have seen I recently put in a new second hand OSF lock, new not available, and it was working ok obviously with the door card off there may be a dodgy wire but all is ok at the moment.fingers crossed :y
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Did you fit your original lock motor or use the one on the replacement lock :-\
If you fitted as is, then swap the motor for your original one and report back ;)
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Hello doc I fitted the original because that had been operating without problems. All seems ok today :y