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[Vitaliy]

Hi guys.
Due to whether here ( way too hot to work outside during daytime) i have just finished swapping engine on my car.

engine works very good on tickover and up to 2000 rpm, then cuts out and restarts when revs are down to 1200 ish. I was using all my old sensors ( at least major ones).

Here is an unknown factor: I bought this car with knackered engine, so I have never heard it running before.
Additional factor: its converted to LPG sequential injection which was supposed to work, but doesn't even light up.
And last bit of info: Engine came from Astra and not omega and I believe its a few years newer. Besides bare block and head everything was from my car.

Any ideas

Edit: car was made in 1998.

[cem_devecioglu]

as I understand LPG not currently installed or active ? assuming its not messing the system , an inital estimate is sensor incompatibility
 
any eml light or codes stored in ECU ?
 
 

[Vitaliy]

It was too late today to do a paperclip test, but all seems to be fine on the dashboard. Mind you I had quite a few omegas down the line and none had electrical problems. There is one possibility - there is a light "check" on the board computer display. This omega is CD variant.

[Vitaliy]

Update: its running up to 4000 rpm now. I haven't done anything. It works like that as of this morning . Will do a paperclip test in a bit.

[cem_devecioglu]

seems like cam sensor.. not sure
 
timing must also be checked imo..

[Vitaliy]

Timing is spot on. I did the timing belt while changing the engine.

Update 2: Did the paperclip test - one big nothing. Thing is If I remember correctly when only on ignition ( not related to the paperclip test) engine management light should be on. Well I haven't seen it light up yet. Maybe light bulb in the dash is faulty???  That is why no error codes or any light whatsoever??? On that note - is ECU giving earth or positive signal to MIL? ECU is easily accessible  so i could just use a bodge-up mil next to it? A mate of mine has Autodata where he works - will find MIL pin of the ECU in no time.

[cem_devecioglu]

Timing is spot on. I did the timing belt while changing the engine.

Update 2: Did the paperclip test - one big nothing. Thing is If I remember correctly when only on ignition ( not related to the paperclip test) engine management light should be on. Well I haven't seen it light up yet. Maybe light bulb in the dash is faulty???  That is why no error codes or any light whatsoever??? On that note - is ECU giving earth or positive signal to MIL? ECU is easily accessible  so i could just use a bodge-up mil next to it? A mate of mine has Autodata where he works - will find MIL pin of the ECU in no time.

dont know, just guessing.. positive signal..

[Vitaliy]

Judging by Autodata its pin 52 of the ECu and its negative signal when MIL is on.
Its too damn hot to try to sort it out. Its 42 outside. Otherwise got A/C regased and my LPG is working as it should - I found the fault - well, it was me. I turned the valve on the tank down to shut off the gas as i had to move evaporator to one side quite a bit. Guess what- I forgot to turn it on again. That is why LPG was not kicking in.

[Vitaliy]

Update: Had another 2 suggesting camshaft positioning sensor. Bloody GM changed them on Astra so that sensor i have got as spare from new engine ( remember i am using all sensors from my old engine) is no good to me as connector is wrong. This spare sensor has more rounded connector than my current one.

[cem_devecioglu]

Judging by Autodata its pin 52 of the ECu and its negative signal when MIL is on.
Its too damn hot to try to sort it out. Its 42 outside. Otherwise got A/C regased and my LPG is working as it should - I found the fault - well, it was me. I turned the valve on the tank down to shut off the gas as i had to move evaporator to one side quite a bit. Guess what- I forgot to turn it on again. That is why LPG was not kicking in.

good one Vitaliy.. You solved yourself 

[cem_devecioglu]

Update: Had another 2 suggesting camshaft positioning sensor. Bloody GM changed them on Astra so that sensor i have got as spare from new engine ( remember i am using all sensors from my old engine) is no good to me as connector is wrong. This spare sensor has more rounded connector than my current one.

yep.. my initial estimation was same..

[Vitaliy]

 
........ You solved yourself  ......

Good one 

Talking about camshaft sensor - will this explain a bit of a power loss ( just a feeling). Not sure about that one as I am hesitant to push it so soon as i have no idea for how long this engine was staying in the brakers yard and when was the last time it was running. I live in a very small town so whenever i went by Omega today does not cover enough mileage to be sure everything is lubricated internally, any rust deposits gone and lifters primed up. its very quiet engine, but still would drive for at least another 20 miles before pushing it.

[cem_devecioglu]

 
........ You solved yourself  ......

Good one 

Talking about camshaft sensor - will this explain a bit of a power loss ( just a feeling). Not sure about that one as I am hesitant to push it so soon as i have no idea for how long this engine was staying in the brakers yard and when was the last time it was running. I live in a very small town so whenever i went by Omega today does not cover enough mileage to be sure everything is lubricated internally, any rust deposits gone and lifters primed up. its very quiet engine, but still would drive for at least another 20 miles before pushing it.

before pushing, change oil and oil filter imo .. I fear some particles effect oil pump..

[Vitaliy]

It just had new oil and filter. I had to swap sumps ans hole pattern was different in astra sump.

[cem_devecioglu]

It just had new oil and filter. I had to swap sumps ans hole pattern was different in astra sump.

ok then

[cem_devecioglu]

must note, for a long time waiting engine , several oil changes is an accepted method

[Vitaliy]

I would do it as well if it had no history at all. Thing is I got it from my friend's brakers and he has chosen this particular engine for me. Upon working on it all looks too good to be true. All parts on it are Genuine GM, that includes all timing pulleys, cambelt, etc, etc. Guide pulleys even smelled like new. Using genuine parts in this part of the world is very rare to say the least. I had a replacement water pump ready to be fitted, but upon inspection was more confident in the genuine pump that had no rust whatsoever on it (If guessing I would say that timing kit including WP was done recently on this engine). Engine was still with antifreeze in the block and engine oil was right thickness and quite transparent (hope you know what I mean). I am pretty confident its ok with regards to oil.

[cem_devecioglu]

I would do it as well if it had no history at all. Thing is I got it from my friend's brakers and he has chosen this particular engine for me. Upon working on it all looks too good to be true. All parts on it are Genuine GM, that includes all timing pulleys, cambelt, etc, etc. Guide pulleys even smelled like new. Using genuine parts in this part of the world is very rare to say the least. I had a replacement water pump ready to be fitted, but upon inspection was more confident in the genuine pump that had no rust whatsoever on it (If guessing I would say that timing kit including WP was done recently on this engine). Engine was still with antifreeze in the block and engine oil was right thickness and quite transparent (hope you know what I mean). I am pretty confident its ok with regards to oil.

hmmm...I think I need a similiar friend   the berakers here want an arm and a leg even for a small part and sell everything seperately

[cem_devecioglu]

as an example  I will pay more money for a transmission than the price of an omega in UK  

[Vitaliy]

There is an old saying - its not What you know , its WHO you know. This mate owns a descent brakers yard and has around 250 cars there. Smaller bits are free for me and this engine will cost me in the region of 150 euro all inclusive. Manual gearbox probably can take for 75 euro.

EDIT: What do you drive - Omega or clit or both?

[cem_devecioglu]

There is an old saying - its not What you know , its WHO you know. This mate owns a descent brakers yard and has around 250 cars there. Smaller bits are free for me and this engine will cost me in the region of 150 euro all inclusive. Manual gearbox probably can take for 75 euro.

EDIT: What do you drive - Omega or clit or both?

Omega is mostly for weekends.. or when car will be crowded..  for daily usage I run clit as parking places in job are none   ( I park behind other cars leaving a phone number ) but must admit people show more respect when calling an omega driver

[Vitaliy]

Update: I think I might be the fault again.

Quickly wired improvised MIL near ECU and got the codes:
0120 - TPS voltage high/low
1690 - Telltalle voltage high/low ( might be the MIL itself if I understand correctly)
0340 - Cam pos. sensor incorrect signal

Well, i think i might have confused connectors on TPS and CamPS.
Is it possible?
One of the ways to find out is: CAN ANYONE TELL ME FROM HIS CAR ON WHICH PART OF THE LOOM IS TPS AND ON WHICH IS CAM PS? Meaning there are 2 runs of the loom - one covers most of the sensors incl. injectors and the other is mainly for starter and alternator, as well as oil sensor and it has one 3 pin connector. Is that connector for TPS or Cam PS?

[Vitaliy]

Update 2 for today: Swapped connectors and ... well its different. Car is very throttle responsive and at the beginning it was still limited to 4000 rpm. After driving for a few KM it can reach 6250rpm not a problem.

There is always BUT. My idle is 2500rpm???
WTF? I will have to do another check with paperclip test.
Any ideas?

[cem_devecioglu]

Update 2 for today: Swapped connectors and ... well its different. Car is very throttle responsive and at the beginning it was still limited to 4000 rpm. After driving for a few KM it can reach 6250rpm not a problem.

There is always BUT. My idle is 2500rpm???
WTF? I will have to do another check with paperclip test.
Any ideas?

good news its sorted
 
2500 rpm idle is really high..  if its an air leak there must be loads of air which must be audible.. or throttle not closing properly     check the idle control valve and some air leak around it..

[Vitaliy]

    
Now high idle is the last of my worries.
F**king heat. after driving around the town for a bit decided to go to a town close by ( 50km from me). All was going very good, clean antifreeze, new engine oil, engine ever so quiet. Than 15km from my town i noticed a white-grey ish cloud behind me. CAR NEVER OVERHEATED!!!!!!!! So quickly stopped and checked oil and coolant levels - all was good apart from water hoses being more like steel pipes. So i waited for a few minutes, started it again and turned around heading home. Cloud behind was enormous. On many occasions i was taken over and signaled i was making a camouflage cloud behind me. Now upon more close inspection with expansion tank cap removed i even can see a smoke coming from there. Oh and it didn't mix oil and coolant at any point. And when running its hunting a bit - my guess its letting coolant into one of the cylinders. Still driving these 15 km home car has never overheated and temperature staid below 100 deg ( I would say 97deg +/- 3 deg ), so it was within working conditions of the engine.

Question is WHY THE HELL it has blown a head gasket? Or ( god i hope not) even cracked head??

[cem_devecioglu]

Now high idle is the last of my worries.
F**king heat. after driving around the town for a bit decided to go to a town close by ( 50km from me). All was going very good, clean antifreeze, new engine oil, engine ever so quiet. Than 15km from my town i noticed a white-grey ish cloud behind me. CAR NEVER OVERHEATED!!!!!!!! So quickly stopped and checked oil and coolant levels - all was good apart from water hoses being more like steel pipes. So i waited for a few minutes, started it again and turned around heading home. Cloud behind was enormous. On many occasions i was taken over and signaled i was making a camouflage cloud behind me. Now upon more close inspection with expansion tank cap removed i even can see a smoke coming from there. Oh and it didn't mix oil and coolant at any point. And when running its hunting a bit - my guess its letting coolant into one of the cylinders. Still driving these 15 km home car has never overheated and temperature staid below 100 deg ( I would say 97deg +/- 3 deg ), so it was within working conditions of the engine.

Question is WHY THE HELL it has blown a head gasket? Or ( god i hope not) even cracked head? ?

thats bad news    I think you will understand what went wrong when you take the head out

[Vitaliy]

Its sooo hot in here i cant work even yet. So i will get up at 6:00 am to be ready by 8:00 am Bulgarian time. My garage is with concrete roof so its still untouchably hot. 5min inside and I was sweating in places i didn't now was possible to sweat