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331
Omega General Help / Re: Another Gates Kit Question
« on: 04 March 2021, 17:29:51 »


You are using the timing tools?


Yes, a Kent Moore kit

Ensure that you are using a matched set of pulleys and backing plate.

I'd taken the new pulleys off the new kit's plate and put them on my old plate.


Fit the crank lock.
Adjust the cam pulleys using the gauge, and fit the cam locks.



Run the belt around all of the pulleys, ensuring it's tight along all of the belt runs.
Check that all the adjustable pulleys are in the centre of their range of movement. If they're not, remove the belt, reset the pulleys then the belt and check again.


Now you can start to time the belt, by removing the locks and turning the engine through adjusting as necessary. If you have the belt tensioned correctly before removing the locks, you shouldn't need much adjustment

Aftering watching the video a wee bit and going to do the process each step, I realised i'd done the first tension after removing the cam locks, so that screwed up the positioning and tensions in other places. Reset it and done it again with all the cam lock in place. Seems to be ok now. Only minimal adjustments needed on the banks of cams and tensioner notch is in correct place, i.e. at top of the locator reference.

Cheers all for feedback.




332
Omega General Help / Re: Another Gates Kit Question
« on: 04 March 2021, 11:34:45 »
So after resetting it all from no1 tdc, rotate engine and then check cams line up the left bank is out a bit, so I tried turning the pulley adjuster anti-clockwise as per the video and it won't take the cams fully forward to line up to marks, only so far, it's moved about half way to the marks and won't go any further.

What's the solution for that?

333
Omega General Help / Re: Reinstalling famous B(stard) bolt
« on: 03 March 2021, 20:02:54 »
Suggest you run the bolt in with nothing inplace to ensure the thread isnt damaged that way the bolt should clean things up.

I opened the hole on the lifting eye with a 10mm drill which made the entire process much easier as you then have some tolerance getting the bolt correctly aligned and it all goes back tight and in place.

I doudt if any omega is ever going to have the lifting plates used now given the age of even the youngest of them  :y

The lifting eye almost fell back out of the way, as if the bottom bolt holding it on was loose. I don't knowwhat happened with reinserting the bolt, it wasn't happy, and was tight the whole way in, but it's tight so fingers crossed.

334
Omega General Help / Re: Another Gates Kit Question
« on: 03 March 2021, 20:01:10 »
Looks like I'm going to need to start again as top and bottom out of line now, will start with no 1 at TDC and go from there.

335
Omega General Help / Re: Another Gates Kit Question
« on: 03 March 2021, 17:19:13 »
Yes, after much to-ing and fro-ing with Gates support, I've concluded that it's best to replace the tensioner pulley and other pulley on the old backplate with the new ones that come with the new backplate, and leave the old backplate in place. This is NOT what Gates advised, which was to replace the old backplate with its old pulley with the new one and its new pulleys, even though the pulley spacings on it are different.
As several people have said it's not strictly necessary to bother with the white & yellow markings on the belt. However, Gates advised that the use of white or yellow markings depends upon the position of the OTHER pulley (the one immediately up from the crankshaft in an anti-clockwise direction). For earlier engines (up to 1999, with the pulley in a lower position) only the white markings should be used throughout, but for later engines (post 1999, with the pulley higher the yellow markings on the belt should be lined up with the marks on crankshaft and those on the LH two camshafts (as you look at the engine from the front), while the white markings should line up with the marks on the RH two camshafts. I have to say it's difficult to understand this when the only difference is the position of the other pulley, which, if you're fitting the cambelt in an clockwise direction has not been contacted before you line up all the markings, but that was Gate's advice.
It probably doesn't matter as long as the crankshaft and cambelt markings are all lined up, and there is no slack in the belt between the two camshaft banks and the crankshaft.
The other uncertainty I face is that my early (1993) V6 engine has a tensioner pulley without an outer flange. This design was subsequently modified by Vauxhall/Opel to include an outer flange as well as the inner one, apparently because the flangeless pulley sometimes allowed the cambelt to ride out slightly and scuff against the plastic cover. You now cannot obtain the flangeless pulley, so I am assuming that it’ll be OK to replace mine with the fully flanged pulley in the kit. Gates were no help with this issue – saying that they had no records of the flangeless pulley.

The first thing I do with any new belt is check it against the old one by turning it inside out and stretching it against the new one with a screwsdriver at each end to stretch it out, to make sure it's the same length, with some stretch from the old belt taken into account.

I've done this with this kit and seems comparable, but now that the tensioner appears not to be pushing against the new belt leads me to think the new belt is longer, and the shorter backplate is required. The shorter gap between the tensioner and pulley would take up the slack that my current tensioner can't take out.

However I've checked the belt and it seems same length, this is what I'm wondering about, it's like a paradox of the gates kit!

My original plate says 6B on it, according to the video the later plates should say I think it was 01 or something, whatever it was it wasn't 6B.

The original plate from the first belt change was 6B as well so the one I just took off is the correct one to use.

336
Omega General Help / Re: Another Gates Kit Question
« on: 03 March 2021, 16:25:27 »
Arrows on correct direction, clockwise.

I then put the belt on and now seem to have too much slack, if that's possible, at the tensioner, it doesn't hit any resistance when I turn it anti-clockwise. I've made a video of the set up as it is just now.

Double checked the mark on bottom of crank, each bank of cams line up with the big plate checker thing, and put the locks back in the cams.

https://andrew-cars.s3.eu-west-2.amazonaws.com/omega/Videos/Omega-Timing-Belt-Loose%5B1%5D.mp4


337
Omega General Help / Re: Another Gates Kit Question
« on: 03 March 2021, 15:15:43 »
Wee issue, got the double white lines at 6 on the crank, fed the belt round clockwise, white lines match the left bank of cams, not on the right though, the white lines on the belt are about 10 teeth short of the cam markings, just ignore those as long as got both cam markings lined up?

338
Omega General Help / Re: Another Gates Kit Question
« on: 03 March 2021, 14:33:27 »
The pullies are the same, so reuse your existing back plate with the new pullies.

The markings on the belt are only there to make it look complicated.

Fit the belt with the double white lines at the 6 o'clock position on the crank.

Finally, don't even think about doing the job without the complete locking kit.  :y

The forum dvd is a pretty handy visual aid as well, and worth alot more than it costs. (the fact that its sales help keep the lights on notwithstanding  ;)).

Got the DVD first time I did it, so referring to it again. Plus I've got the proper kent-moore locking kit so  :y

339
Omega General Help / Another Gates Kit Question
« on: 03 March 2021, 13:22:15 »
Ok, so I've read over most of the stuff I can find on here about the timing belt kits, including Chrisp from the cavalier forum's (which I am a member) post:

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=147662.msg1965804#msg1965804

Just to make sure I am understanding this right:

I've bought kit K015453XS and I understand this is a 2.5 kit (mine's a 2.6 02 plate), but you can swap the tensioner and upper idler from your old backplate to the new one?

Reason I ask is on the old plate, the distance between the idler and tensioner is greater than the new plate, the code on my old plate is 6B, the new one is EB. I also need to use the yellow marking on the belt to line up the crank pulley (there's a white double line and yellow double line near each other on belt), and white markings on the left bank of cams and a mix of white and yellow marks on the right bank of cams.

Cheers

Andrew

340
Omega General Help / Re: Reinstalling famous B(stard) bolt
« on: 03 March 2021, 12:59:33 »
It does go in at a downward angle (head pointing towards the wheel arch)  :y

It was leaning slightly to the right towards bulkhead, know what you mean about it going in at an upward angle as well though.

341
Omega General Help / Re: Reinstalling famous B(stard) bolt
« on: 03 March 2021, 12:14:06 »
At the risk of threading it I slowly ran it in, no other choice had to risk it, it seemed to have that feeling of not being too happy as it was going in, but managed to get it tight and the pipe feels secure now. I think it's now time to call the guys with the straightjackets!

342
Omega General Help / Reinstalling famous B(stard) bolt
« on: 03 March 2021, 11:40:50 »
Hi

I'm trying to reinstall the bolt on the side of the block that holds the coolant to stat pipe in, apart from the gnashing of teeth, swearing, spitting, I thought i had finally got the pipe dispstick and engine lift plate lined up, confirmed by my illuminated mirror, and running a small screwsdriver into it to roughly aligh it all. I started running the bolt in and felt it catch, but then it started going in at an angle, leaning towards the bulkhead, I carefully kept going with a 10mm spanner, ready to stop if it felt to be suddently getting tight, which it started doing. I removed the bolt and it looked ok, didn't look as if it was cross threading.


Tried again and the same thing happened. Has anyone else found this issue whilst putting the bolt back in?

God what a nightmare that thing is!

343
Yep guide in the maintenance section.Click on guide index and scroll down past Engine common to petrol V6 and it's in that section.


Thanks, had a look at it, looks pretty much ok from what I can see.

344
I've got the inlet off and can't see any sign of it yet, is it under the lower section between the V?

Yes, all the plenum sections need to come off. Then there is a black plastic inlet divider that needs to be removed (please block the inlet ports on the head, rags or painters tape). Under that is a metal plate with 2 metal pipes coming out of is. The cooler is fastened to the underside of this plate.

I will, say there will be an excellent guide in the how2 section.

I didn't look hard enough lol, I can sort of see it now, although still covered by plastic inlet thingy. Don't worry I'm well versed on blocking those holes off. I don't think there is a guide to be honest, maybe I missed it but tried to see if one was there in the index.

345
If the coolant has been changed regularly then the oil cooler should outlive the car.

If the coolant has been in since it left the factory or is blue, then it's £150 well spent. Changing the thermostat whilst the valley is accessible is another prudent step.

That way, you know that the job is done right.

I changed it at 70k, looked quite clean, put the proper red coolant in it, and will do that again this time so fingers crossed.

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