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[petec]

Hi Steve,  you have probably got this all sorted by now but just in case..... the fridge feed on my 2003 facelift estate is fed from fuse 5 (30A) which also supplies the front seat electrics so the feed to the socket at the back was already live and wasn't anything to do with fuse 29. I fed it through an auto switch to the 12s socket so van only gets juice when engine running (or alternator providing a charge i.e. not idling with lights and air con on .

not sure whether yours uses same fuse but worth a look if not sorted.

cheers
Pete

[Marks DTM Calib]

Not sure why you would want to run a seperate feed for a tow bar given that the factory fit is rated for 20A and a towbar socket is rated at little more than that.

[Entwood]

Not sure why you would want to run a seperate feed for a tow bar given that the factory fit is rated for 20A and a towbar socket is rated at little more than that.

I run a totally seperate ignition switched line direct from the battery (ok .. via a fused relay)  for the fridge line to the 13 pin socket.

Simple reason is modern 'van fridges like a lot of oomph, and the voltage drop using the inbuilt line which comes from a fairly small diameter cable and via lots of other connections, is simply too high. The alternator output may well be in the region of 14.7v, but by the time it gets to the fridge it is often down to around 11-12 v

This causes the in-built fridge relay to cycle, especially at low RPM's, and can be heard by the "clicking" of the relay at the fridge.

Your choice ... I guess it depends how often you use the fridge ....   

[Marks DTM Calib]

Wrong approach though Nige, the correct question is.....what current is the fridge using......and whats the surge current 

Reason being, the cable used is at least 2.5mm2 (I seem to recall its actualy nearer to 4mm)

Assume worst case of 10m (which its not) thats 0.1 ohm on a bad day when you allow for fuses etc.....at 20A the volt drop is 2V max....which any system in a pikey wagon should be able to tolerate with ease.

I suspect its the surge as the motor kicks in on the fridge that is the issue which tells you a few things.

1) Its a poorly designed motor/fridge setup (no surprise as they dont have to meet any specific design standards running off LV DC so will happily take 10-20 times surge current from the vehicle)

2) You have now moved the electrical stress to the van, trailer wire and connector (the connectors are bloody awful design and quality from an electrical perspective, even the newer types).

 

[Andy B]

....

I suspect its the surge as the motor kicks in on the fridge that is the issue which tells you a few things.
 ....

Absorption fridge on a caravan Mark     

[Marks DTM Calib]

Possibly although I know not all are!

Thing is those things can take in the order of 300W for the big ones.....and that is going beyond the current rating of the trailer socket....

[petec]

The standard supply cable to the round/square rear socket on the omega seems quite adequate to supply the fridge in my van but I did find a lot of the electrical connections on my van (1991 elddis) were poor, factory fitted scotchlocks, chocolate block connectors open to the damp etc. The return earth may also be equally iffy although later vans had a seperate eth return for the fridge  wired back to the 12s socket. I had nearly 2 ohms on the eth to my rear lights and 1.5 to the fridge initially which came down to about 0.2 when connections remade. I would suggest checking joints on the cable runs in the van first if there are problems.

[Marks DTM Calib]

I woudl also not be surprised if the gizmo fridges with the 'electronic control' may be a bit fast and hair triggered when it comes to firing the heater on/off.

[Entwood]

I woudl also not be surprised if the gizmo fridges with the 'electronic control' may be a bit fast and hair triggered when it comes to firing the heater on/off.

Spot on 

The independent feed seems to help ..   May not be the perfect answer .. bu it is one that works !!

[Marks DTM Calib]

I wonder if a local capacitor close to the fridge may sort it.

Guessing its the default Dometic type?