Ok, as I've done this job myself as recently as yesterday, I'll chuck my twopenneth in
This is from my own experiences of making mistakes and learning as I go.
If you're worried about what hose/wire goes where, don't feel stupid for labelling things. HT leads I label 1-6, and why not?, other stuff I'm pretty used to now I can tell by just looking at it.
The breathers, there are four, the large diameter 'Y' is easy, only one place is can go on the plenum, there is one similar-diameter one - this is the gearbox breather, and can be bent out of the way wherever you like, forget about it. The two smaller breather pipes is easy also these also go on the plenum between where the 'Y' sits - trace them back the one that goes to the breather box on the
left, goes on the leftmost on the plenum, the one that goes deep elsewhere to the
right, goes on the rightmost one. easy
Pitfalls, forwarned is forearmed... try and get the plenum on square when refitting, don't squirm it round too much(there are locating pins) the reason is the large o-rings can be dislodged, you won't realise and an air leak will result, causing poor/lumpy runnning, and the nearest object to be hurled across the driveway.
-The HBV (google it) has a fairly delicate spigot and vac lone on the top it's not impossible to snap this whilst diving you hand in behind the engine. Be careful. Again, vac leak and hot cabin will result!
-Torque settings - DON'T attempt to guess when doing up studs in the plenum, it is alloy, soft and easily stripped. Halfords torque wrenches are top quality, made in England (probably by Norbar), last a lifetime, and will save you many headaches over the years. I use mine as often as I can.
-You need more silicone when sealing the scuttle than you think. I have had about 10mm thick splodge and it's still not enough.
-Photos. Similar to labelling, don't be afraid to take pics as you go, it can be a real aid, also some bright yellow insulating tape on the plugs, especially the one that goes back right of the plenum (part of the multiram setup) doesn't go amiss when it's 10pm and you can't find it because it's dropped behind everything you've just assembled.
-you don't mention removing the scuttle for the job - I'd assume you have/will, depending how far down you have gone, it may be worth it. If you go right down to the 'cylinder heads' then no need, however removal and re-sealing 'futureproofs' it. You don't want to fry your lovely new DISpack when it rains!
Halfords Advanced tools. many on here, and many pro mechanics use them. It may be annoying if you already have a decent set of sockets in your possession, but the t-torx, e-torx, deep drive and impact drive sockets are very useful, and any modern car will have a plethora of torx, whether you buy just 'a set' of Torx, or an entire 170/200 piece socket set, just get them, rather than one socket here... one extension there, it soon gets annoying having to drive out for a
slightly larger hex bit when the light's failing and the car's still in bits. Its near xmas there's always a sale on, never pay full price.
Just some thoughts for you, take or ignore what you wish