Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: LC0112G on 01 December 2017, 10:05:03
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Question: Would swapping the order of the pipework connections onto the heater matrix at the bulkhead help de-block a heater matrix ?
Reason for the question was that the heat output from my blowers was pish poor so over the weekend I 'blew it through' with the garden hose pipe. It's now much better, but still not as good as my Carlton, so I assume that some (maybe most) of the pipe-ways in the matrix are still blocked.
I've previously had to cut the quick release fittings off the pipes because they decided to quick release on the M3 one night :P. So I've just got pipes and jubilee clips holding them onto the bulkhead pipes. I reckon with a bit of effort I could swap the order of these pipes onto the matrix. If I did this, the flow of water through the matrix would be reversed. Assuming that the blockages are close to the original 'input' side of the matrix, this would mean the newly reversed flow of water would attempt to blow the crud out the way it came in. Might not make an immediate difference, but over a few weeks/months perhaps it would blow out most of the crud?
What do the Borg mind here think. Worth a go?
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That plan seems feasible, but if you do release lots of detritus, where would it go - you don't want it blocking the main radiator, do you?
What if you filled JUST the matrix with something like Radflush, then block off the matrix hoses and the engine side hoses, leaving the Radflush to do its work for a few days, then hose the matrix out?
Ron.
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Why not simply back flush the heater matrix with mains water for half an hour?
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Why not simply back flush the heater matrix with mains water for half an hour?
Because it isn't particularly effective. Mine was thoroughly flushed through with plenty of clean water from each direction, but still didn't give out much heat.
When I replaced it, I pried off the end tank to find 9 of the 12 tubes solidly packed with silt.
The replacement actually makes the interior hit within a mile, unlike the original which took several miles to get slightly warm
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Why not simply back flush the heater matrix with mains water for half an hour?
Did that. Heat output is now a lot better than it was, but still not great - probably for the reason Nick W states. But reverse connections would pump hot water through the pipes for a few days/weeks, and hot water is a much better dissolver of crud than cold water is. No way I'd get approval from the boss to back-flush with hot water for even half an hour at home.
That plan seems feasible, but if you do release lots of detritus, where would it go - you don't want it blocking the main radiator, do you?
Fairly sure my rad is on it's last legs anyway, but yes (or is it no?) I realise that's a risk. Doubt the stuff would all come out in one clump though, and even if it did it's the same rad that's been in there all the time the matrix has been in, so probably just as blocked as the matrix. Easier to change a rad than a matrix too.
What if you filled JUST the matrix with something like Radflush, then block off the matrix hoses and the engine side hoses, leaving the Radflush to do its work for a few days, then hose the matrix out?
Would all be cold though. And I'm not keen on putting strange potions into an engine even if they're flushed out afterwards.
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Put it this way, what do you really have to lose?
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Put it this way, what do you really have to lose?
Driving 800 miles to Tignes (in French France) next weekend, and then 800 miles back on Christmas eve. Might be a bit parky but any serious failures would be a vin number and number plates off job, leave the car at the road side and fly home with easyJet job :-)
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Leave it until spring, and replace both...
Besides, you're not packing for the beach.
Set the fan to about three bars, windscreen front and rear, temp to high, aircon on, ie not ECO, and close all the other vents. :y