Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: addy on 21 December 2017, 11:40:30
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Can anyone tell me please how to get to the bottom bolt of the engine mount rubber on a 2001 2.2 16v petrol, I have undone the top one but cannot seem to get a spanner or socket, into the space where the nut is. I have A/C so the motor doesn't allow coming at it from the front. I am trying to get to the Crankshaft Sensor to change it, unless there is a easier way to do it? Whoever the engineer was that put it near there wants shooting. The V6's is so much easier ;D
Thanks in advance for any help.
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Hi. I see there is a forum guide by me. It begins with 'remove nearside engine mounting'. I forget how I did it, and have not a 2.2 here to look at. My recollection is I used an open ended spanner on it. If you cannot work it out, let me know, there will be 2 2.2s here over Christmas.
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Havent seen a4 pot engine mount, but by your description it sounds like it might be a job for a crows foot spanner ?
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Hi terry paget thank you for the quick reply. I looked at it, from what I can see the rubber mount cannot come out so the engine bracket, to the rubber mount has to come off, does this sound sort of familiar. I cannot see where the sensor is, but someone on a site I am on Facebook, said that it is easy to see and can be done without moving anything? Am I being a numpty not seeing where the sensor is as I have looked and all I can see from underneath is the A/C compressor, is it near to this?
Thanks for both Migv6 and yourself for quick replies.
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A fellow OOFer told me it could be done all from above. Certainly if you remove the dipstick and tube you can see it.
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/e5y9slk5q1wg8tq/2.2crankSENSOR.jpg?dl=1)
The large hexagon is of a bolt I placed in the dip stick hole to stop anything else falling into it.
I removed the torx screw easily enough with a long 8mm socket on the end of a wobbly extension, and removed the crank sensor too. Then it is worth tying a string to the end of its lead before unplugging it and pulling it out, as in my guide. I managed to insert the new crank sensor, too.
The tricky bit is replacing the screw. As I already had the engine mounting off, I did it from below. I am sure it can be done from above, though, with perseverance.
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Dropbox has turned my picture through 90 degrees. The sensor is above and to the left of the dip stick hole as you lean over the nearside wing.
Good luck.
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Yes, I think the mounting bracket had to come out first If it had been tricky I would have mentioned it in my guide.
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Thanks thought the engine mount has to come out, someone in the past used a torx head bolt for one of the engine mount bolts, they fitted it in the hole next to the A/C compressor, it was fun to get out so will go in the top one when the mounting is going back on, or might goto dealers and get new bolts if not dear, unless someone knows the size and pitch so I can get some hardened ones from local ironmongers. My dipstick looks like it isn't bolted in, is it a push fit? Here is looking down to the dipstick tube on mine.
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/Remingtonarmy/DSC_0191.jpg) (http://s42.photobucket.com/user/Remingtonarmy/media/DSC_0191.jpg.html)
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This is the bolt hole that had the torx head bolt in it, as you can see it was fun, lucky I managed to start it, then finish with a 11mm ring spanner, just got to get a spanner for the other bolts left.
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/Remingtonarmy/DSC_0198a%20600%20x%20337.jpg) (http://s42.photobucket.com/user/Remingtonarmy/media/DSC_0198a%20600%20x%20337.jpg.html)
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Yes, I think the dip stick tube is a tapered push fit in the crank case.
I have found it in Haynes now, p.4A.14. note 54 states on models with aircon removing LH engine mounting improves access - true enough.
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I see you seem to be having problems. Hope yours is Crank Sensor. I bought a ask no question reader, which works great. Have changed camshaft sensor(genuine VX one), as it kept coming up as camshaft sensor error. Changed battery as old one gave up and cleaned all parts of the terminals. Not had spanner light on since doing these, also no more autogearbox error codes or limp mode(fingers crossed) but eml keeps coming on, it took ages to start the other day and eml came on. Went to it on Sunday and just started off got to end of road light came on, when did code read it said P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected, cleared codes tried driving again and light came back on with same code. On recommendation from on here I am going to do the Crank Sensor and hope it solves the problems. Will also be doing Throttle Body.
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I see you seem to be having problems. Hope yours is Crank Sensor. I bought a ask no question reader, which works great. Have changed camshaft sensor(genuine VX one), as it kept coming up as camshaft sensor error. Changed battery as old one gave up and cleaned all parts of the terminals. Not had spanner light on since doing these, also no more autogearbox error codes or limp mode(fingers crossed) but eml keeps coming on, it took ages to start the other day and eml came on. Went to it on Sunday and just started off got to end of road light came on, when did code read it said P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected, cleared codes tried driving again and light came back on with same code. On recommendation from on here I am going to do the Crank Sensor and hope it solves the problems. Will also be doing Throttle Body.
I hope I have not confused you. This is your thread, the other thread I began in February 2014, I merely revived it to show you PhilGibb's remark on changing the crank sensor change without removing the engine mounting.
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My bad. Thanks for putting me right. :y
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Expanding on the cable: the cable connection is on RHS (driver side), front and top of the engine - very obvious. I unplugged it, tied a string to it with other end tied to a hose top right of engine. I then pulled the sensor cable end plug down below the aircon compressor, then pulled the cable at the sensor end and pulled the sensor and cable away from the engine above the dip stick hole.
I inserted the new sensor with the cable hanging down, then tied the string to the cable end plug and pulled it below the compressor and up to the connection with the string.
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8mm ring spanner or 1/4" ratchet on the sensor retaining nut :-\ assuming that you can actually remove the bolt and sensor with the dipstick in situ...
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Hi Doctor Gollum, I did manage to get the old sensor out,using 8mm ring spanner what a nightmare. Managed to put the new one in, but dropped the b****y fixing bolt so had to order a new one, that only comes in a pack of 5. I did try and remove the dipstick after removing the securing bolt, but couldn't find out how it comes out so put the bolt back in and left it. I have small hands but the small space to get the sensor and bolt in, is crazy, due to the A/C compressor. Hopefully will get it all back together tomorrow and it solves my problems(fingers crossed). Will be doing throttle body next and new spark plugs for it.
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Forgot to say the old Crankshaft sensor was covered in oil, but no fine metal filings of any kind (which is at least some good news). Just wandering would the oil on it,cause intermittent problems?
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If you remove the dipstick and undo the clamp at the top of the tube, then grasp the dip stick tube at the base with a mole wrech or stillson wrench you should be able to turn it. Once it is turning you will find you can wriggle it out.
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Forgot to say the old Crankshaft sensor was covered in oil, but no fine metal filings of any kind (which is at least some good news). Just wandering would the oil on it,cause intermittent problems?
crank sensors live in the crankcase, so are meant to be covered in oil. The intermittent problems are caused by their construction, which is a tightly wound coil of extremely fine wire. When that breaks, the sensor becomes either unreliable or terminally broken. They should be considered as consumable items. They're also one of the few parts where buying genuine isn't a matter of personal preference.