Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: griff2494 on 25 November 2010, 21:23:46
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Hi all
right first off im new here (first post)
i went and bought a 2002 omega sport 2.2 today,got it at a very good price as the sellar has just had enought of it lol (spent £1800 since Aug!!!!! on suspension,track rod ends and full exhaust etc ect)
when i saw the car she told me that its got another problem and shes just had enought!
right heres the probs !
1. she told me that it seems to loose coolant with no signs of coolant dropping
i checked the oil/coolant with only very slight mayo in the filler cap,but her hubby does very short journeys approx 5 miles aday and thats it,so hopefully its the short journey thing?
so anyone any ideas???
2. the light came on while driving home that looks like a engine,the book says emissions/exhaust, and it seems to be kicking out lots of crap
any ideas???? maybe the lamba sensor?????
3. Also the temp gauge ! it goes upto 80c then drops back to 0 then back to 80c ,any ideas???? loose wire?
ive done a bit of looking on coolant leakage and people have posted the HBV ????? what is this??? i assume thats NOT a dif name for hg ????
also forgot to say it also seems to judder sometimes when setting off,but then runs stop of ,drove 200 miles home with it at 70mph and it ran spot on
so any help in this would be great
cheers
griff
ps do they have coil packs? maybe breaking down?
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You will need to get the codes read to determine why the EML is coming on.
Temp gauge problem related to coolant loss.
HBV= Heater Bypass Valve and very prone to leaking. Check this first. :y
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.....!
1. she told me that it seems to loose coolant with no signs of coolant dropping
i checked the oil/coolant with only very slight mayo in the filler cap,but her hubby does very short journeys approx 5 miles aday and thats it,so hopefully its the short journey thing?
so anyone any ideas???
....
ive done a bit of looking on coolant leakage and people have posted the HBV ????? what is this??? i assume thats NOT a dif name for hg ????
cheers
griff
Welcome to the forum
HBV is Heater Bypass Valve. Not sure exactly where is on a 4 cylinder car, but it's at the back my block towards the driver's side. If you think Star ship Enterprise you'll recognise it when you see it. :y
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wow cheers for the quick replies :-)
will look for that valve first ! would be nice if thats all the coolant lose was (hopefully)
as for codes being read i have no reader :-( would it be worth me getting one? if so what /wheres the best to get? (below £100)
cheers
griff
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This may give you an idea of what your looking for.
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1193594464
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Evening and welcome.
A bit of mayo is normal, lots is not.
HBV Heater Bypass Valve lives at back of engine and controls coolant flow into the heater matrix.
HBV is the most likely source of mysterious coolant leaks.
Temp gauge could be a loose connection on the sensor, or possibly the instrument cluster is not quite seated right, give it a firm push into the dash. If the wire from the sensor is earthed the gauge should read full.
2.2's can suffer from head gasket leaks. Doubtless someone better informed will be along shortly.
Al. :y
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wow cheers for the quick replies :-) ......
we were a bit slow ..... 5mins & 6mins .... must do better! ;) :y
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Hello Griff & welcome to the OOF :y
Have a look at these links & then aquaint yourself with the Maintenance Guides and Omega Common Issues & FAQ sections of the Forum:y
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1279574806
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1167917774
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1263473441
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1193594464
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1162397695
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1157117391
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if it was to turn out to be a hg problem (fingers crossed not) how big a job are they?
i just changed the one on my classic mini (its a convert mini lol has a 1.8vvc engine in it)
which was not that bad ,has twin cams/belts so would it be harder than that? (does the omega have belt or chain?)
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Must
Type
Faster ;D
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it is unlikely to be your HG, difficulty depends on how good you are with spanners and how well equipped you are to do the job.
All Omegas have belts except for the diesels which have chain.
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if it was to turn out to be a hg problem (fingers crossed not) how big a job are they?
i just changed the one on my classic mini (its a convert mini lol has a 1.8vvc engine in it)
which was not that bad ,has twin cams/belts so would it be harder than that? (does the omega have belt or chain?)
If you're capable of making a pot of tea, heating a pan of beans without them sticking to the bottom & toasting two slices of bread without burning them (all simultaneously of course ::)) then you are more than capable of doing a head gasket on a Desmond (2.2). The v6 is harder, you need to be able to do the above whilst simultaneously making & eating a thai green curry! :D ;D ;D :y
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thanks everyone
this seems a brill place for knowledge :-)
the links are spot on thanks :-)
griff
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Fingers crossed that it is the HBV. :y
Short runs and cold weather will cause clouds of water vapour out of the exhaust but if the engine is 'lumpy' when first started I would check the spark plugs to see that they are all the same colour (if one looks like it has been steam cleaned you might have an issue with the HG) :(
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Hi and welcome to OOF
If you post your location there may be someone with the correct equipment to read codes and perhaps look at live data etc .
When my HBV went i saw a drip of water when looking from behind drivers side front wheel and looking up .
Was dripping over gearbox ... not much but thats where i saw it
Your in the right place for help :y :y
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As for the temp gauge .... on warm up mine goes up to 95 ish then drops back to 80-85 ish as the thermostat opens then settles at 85 .
Dont know if thats what you see but if it is i would say its normal .
If its going back to the bottom of the gauge ( or 0 as you say ) then possible gauge fault or low coolant :-/
Does the warning for low coolant show ?
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Hi and welcome to OOF
If you post your location there may be someone with the correct equipment to read codes and perhaps look at live data etc .When my HBV went i saw a drip of water when looking from behind drivers side front wheel and looking up .
Was dripping over gearbox ... not much but thats where i saw it
Your in the right place for help :y :y
What he said...... :y
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thats the only problem lol
im in the army and am living out in northern germany,so one the language is a problem and two parts over here cost a fortune :-( so have to relay on parts coming from uk which again is a night mare as parcels seem to take anywhere from 2 to 6 weeks to arrive (bloody bfpo)
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For the temp gauge check behind the engine if the cable is loose.
For the coolant loss HBV is the most probable cause.
But also run the engine, turn the climate unit on (not on eco but full aircon) and then wait a couple of minutes and check the pipes for the coolant especially the one on the thermostat and the one bellow it.
Lover rubber pipe on mine leaked and it was only visible when the aircon was on because of slightl higher pressure in the pipes probably.
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now i def think there must be a prob :-(
i will check the coolant asap
but went to work in her today ran sweet but i noticed the fuel gauge :-(
i put 40 litres in her yesterday and ive drove 146 miles and its empty again!!!!!
i no its a 2.2 but is that normal???? seems very low miles to the gallon to me :-( and i never went above 70mph either!!!!
could that have some thing to do with the emissions light thats on on the dash (looks like a enige with a propeler stuck on it lol)
also tried 1,2,3 gears all seem fine but once its in D and you put the foot down it does not seem to pick up just carries on like before
cheers
griff
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yes that's bad mileage should get 8.5 litres per 100k on a manual and add little bit more if it's an auto around 10 if i remember rightly as for parts I'm in austria and always use ebay or there are plenty of online shops around which are about the same money as the u.k although i bought some powerflex bushes off ebay.de and did not do well at all for price so comparison is the name of the game!
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now i def think there must be a prob :-(
i will check the coolant asap
but went to work in her today ran sweet but i noticed the fuel gauge :-(
i put 40 litres in her yesterday and ive drove 146 miles and its empty again!!!!!
i no its a 2.2 but is that normal???? seems very low miles to the gallon to me :-( and i never went above 70mph either!!!!
could that have some thing to do with the emissions light thats on on the dash (looks like a enige with a propeler stuck on it lol)
also tried 1,2,3 gears all seem fine but once its in D and you put the foot down it does not seem to pick up just carries on like before
cheers
griff
do you mean it doesn't kick down a gear?
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yes does not seem to kick down,it did do before the light came on ,could it be some kick of default mode that kicks in once light goes on almost a limp mode
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Yes it sounds like it's going in to limp mode. Would explain lack of power, lumpy idling and high consumption. Possibly MAF sensor but you really need to get the error codes.
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hi all again
right managaed to get a hour out at car tonight after work ,god its cold here lol froze my ...... off
anyway i started off by checking the plugs and coil pack (tested it by earthing the plugs around the threads and got a lovely blue spark)
but when i removed the plugs/coil i found this :o :o :o
its from the fourth plug (nearest to bulk head)and 2 of the 4 plugs where loose
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/Picture21.jpg)
as you can see its covered in oily gunk!!!!!around the plug
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/Picture22.jpg)
but the colour of the plug seems healthy
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/Picture23.jpg)
also the coil pack its self on that pot was the same
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/Picture18.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/Picture19.jpg)
what would course this???? could this be where my coolant is going?
if so is this hg on the fourth pot????
(if it is the hg in one way it would be a relief as at least i would no)
i also had a very quick look at finding the coolant sender, i noticed when i found it that
1. the wirer/plug connection is not the correct type
2. and the wire it self has broken throw its plastic casing,which may explain why the gauge keeps going up and down,as may be earthing out??????????
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Hard to tell in the picture but is that coolant or oil all over the plug?
Oil would be the well documented cam cover gasket failure (new gaskets, clean breathers, etc)..
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not realy sure its def oil but with the colour they may have been a bit of water too
(my camera was dead so had to take the pics on my web cam so as you saw not best qual)
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I'll take a punt and say the water is probably just condensation from the cold weather, then, and the oil is cam cover gasket failure.
I believe andyc can do a kit of parts to do the gaskets, and there's a guide in the maintenance section on the gaskets and cleaning the breathers to stop them failing again.
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just won this on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360252507714&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
hope its the thing i need to read the codes etc???
ive got a saab 93 too so hopefully this tool is the right one as its says it does saabs too
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Yes that will do the job Griff, but we aren't allowed to discuss them here as they are chinese clones of the real thing & therefore there are Copyright issues etc. :D :y
BTW, my money's on the No.4 plug cover causing your misfire! ;)
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Clean the plugs and put them back in, test the car with the code reader you got.
Also check the breathers for dirt and cam cover gasket for any oil leaking.
For the breathers it would be advisable to dismantle them and clean.
The butterfy valve can be pretty clear from the top view but on the underside it can be a mess. You have a great how to in the maintenance section.
Also for the consumption of 2.2 should be around 7.5 to 8 litres on open road and anywhere from 14 litres in town driving or even more on really short trips. This is mainly all due to the weight of the car.
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:-(
>:( >:( >:(seem to have a very big problem now >:( :(
right here goes :-(
told wife to keep a eye on the coolant as we having problems with loosing it from some where
seeing its so cold here right now and because of the coolant lose i needed to get more anti freeze but forgot :-(
anyway wife took it out for a spin but after 5mins in -10c the car was on red and the warning light came on!!!!!!!!!
i had a look and again mayo in the filler neck! and the water reservoir was bubbling and making noise ,after approx 2 hours i loosened it carefully and the pressure was still very high :-? :-? (even after all that time)
next i ensured that there was plenty of fluid in her restarted and let it get hot, it very quickly went to red hot/light on but then it dropped and stayed at 90c!!!!
antill i went for a 100m drive again went to red!!! and was kicking out lots and lots of exhaust flems,but once stopped it went back to 90c and held there
but the other thing is now it was hot ! i put the heating on and all that came out was ice cold air!!! even thought the car was hot!!!!
if not head gasket gone could there be either a air lock (seeing i have to keep topping the coolant up) or even seeing its so cold could the pipes in say the heater maxtric be frossen solid and in turn not letting fluid run round the engine!!! which in turn is making it get red hot ????
but would that course bubbles in the res? (or is that engine gas due to hgf ?????)
cheers your replies will be helpfull
im off work saturday so will take breathers etc off and have a look i assume if there blocked with mayo that would be the best way to def no if hgf???
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Looks like you are loosing coolant on heater matrix probably which isn't working. Either it is heater matrix or HBV.
Heater matrix can be flushed (there was a how to also). No wonder the car got hot if it was town driving and not enough coolant
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well a few items arrived today :-) (well yesterday lol)
got my cam cover gasket and thermostat
went out to change the theromstat + housing
removed the old one that was showing signs of leaking
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050564.jpg)
as you can see the crust where its been leaking ,i would say for some time too!!!!
took the old thermostat out
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050563.jpg)
took it out boiled it and nothing !!!! its def not working,did not open even at boiling piont
also who ever changed it last time just put loads of loctite on it which you can see even in the housing,bet it also gone in the engine :-(
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050565.jpg)
anyway fitted the new one,no more dripping but the heating still not working,even the pipes going to the heater dont heat up !!! AIR LOCK MAYBE ???//
thing is ive read how to flush the heater but i have a problem there i live on a top floor flat 4 stories up so no chance of getting a hose pipe to the car anyone got any other ideas????
also whats the best way to bleed the system???
the car never got any higher than 90 on the temp gauge but like i say the heating was cold so i assume theres a air lock or blockage?
going to do the cam gasket tommorrow hopefully that will stop the misfire? if not the hbv should arrive hopfully tommorrow as well and the code reader
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also whats the best way to bleed the system??? ....
After you've initially filled it, run the engine, 'burp' any of the bigger hoses you can get your hands on and top up as required before it gets fully hot. It'll self bleed, any air in the system will make its way to the header, so just keep an eye on the level over the next day or so.
PS get those car bits off the kitchen sink before SWMBO sees them
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cheers for the reply
i assume that seeing the thermostat did not open /not work that could explain why she got so hot!
also the leak on the housing could be why the water loose,and once i change the hbv i assume then all routes are covered as for water loose as no pipes are split
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forgot to say, had a quick look while out at the car for the hbv thing,told it is at back of enginge near rockercover under the scuttle panel, but i cant see/feel it :o :o :o :o :o am i looking in the right area??? am i right thinking my 2.2 should have one? could someone of taken it out and bypassed it some how????or is it just a idiot to find without taking the scuttle panel thing out(windscreen wiper plastic thiung i mean)
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I think all Omegas that have aircon have an HBV. If you follow the matrix hoses from the bulkhead towards the front of the car, you should find the HBV, though access/visibility is 'orrible in that area.
If you do have one, the cold heater and coolant loss may both be solved after replacement. I think one of the failure modes of the HBV will result in coolant getting to the underside of the vacuum diaphragm that actuates it. This would tend to push the diaphragm up, as if the aircon were on, and the HBV would be diverting flow away from the matrix.
Good luck. :)
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:-( hbv still not arrived :-(
the post out here in germany is crap!!! (well the army bfpo is lol)
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well just been out to brave the cold (-10 here :-( )
thought i would tackle the cam cover/rocker gasket
im sure someone before me must have done this before as the bolts where not tight! (not sure of the torque settings they should be but they where just tighter than finger tight)
anyway took it off to find this
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050567.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050568.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050569.jpg)
i expected to see some mayo seeing i was told that is quite normal for a car of this age (2002) that just does short journeys,but not this much ! esp seeing when i did the breather pipes before they where covered to
but still theres no sign of mayo on the dip stick!!!!
ive looked down into the pots like was advised to ,to see if i could see any water/antifreeze on the pots after she had been ran then cold but i cant see any :-? so still not sure if its the hg
whats everyones opion
cheers griff
ps next is to clean the mayo from the rocker cover then get it throw the dish washer ;) (while wifes shopping lol)
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now im even more confused!!!!!!!!!!!
when i started to clean the mayo out ,i turned the rocker cover on its end so the 2 breather pipe holes faced the table and this happened
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050570.jpg)
water ran out of it all over the news paper :o :-? :-? :-?
but i dont under stand
1. that much water!!!!
2. its clear water!!! has no antifreeze in it :-? :-?
i had to get a bowl in the end
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050571.jpg)
like i said thing is it has no antifreeze in it its clear :-? :-?also how can it of got there???????surly that much water if it was from hg the engine would not work and the rocker would be jammed packed with mayo
also does the rocker cover come apart? ie where the breathers are it looks like some kind of cover ,but i dare not start pulling at it incase it should not come apart
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Cam cover should be tightened at 8nm which is really low so it shouldn't be tight at all.
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Don't worry about the mayo and the water.
What many people don't appreciate is that when you burn hydrocarbons like petrol and diesel, the reaction produces primarily carbon dioxide and water. The carbons combine with oxygen to form CO2, the hydrogens combine with oxygen to form H20.
This is why steam comes out of exhaust pipes (all the time, but usually only visible when the exhaust system is cold), and why crankcase ventilation fumes contain significant amounts of water/steam, via blowby past the piston rings.
If you only do short journeys, this moisture in the crankcase and breather system may build up, as the whole engine isn't hot enough for long enough to evaporate this stuff out. :)
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Don't worry about the mayo and the water.
What many people don't appreciate is that when you burn hydrocarbons like petrol and diesel, the reaction produces primarily carbon dioxide and water. The carbons combine with oxygen to form CO2, the hydrogens combine with oxygen to form H20.
This is why steam comes out of exhaust pipes (all the time, but usually only visible when the exhaust system is cold), and why crankcase ventilation fumes contain significant amounts of water/steam, via blowby past the piston rings.
If you only do short journeys, this moisture in the crankcase and breather system may build up, as the whole engine isn't hot enough for long enough to evaporate this stuff out. :)
And the reason why you should just drive the car rather than have it idling for ages ages on the drive.
(another thread)
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well wife came back so could not use the dish washer :-(
but she was still pissed off when i took it in the shower pmsl
but much better know ,now mayo
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050572.jpg)
,and also got all the crap out off the hard to reach places lol
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050576.jpg)
all breather ports sorted,clean inside and out :-)
i used to have a vauxhall carlton and it had some kind of blocks of mesh in the rocker cover that acted as a filter they where so much easyier to clean than this set up on the omega
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Is your saab 93 pre 2000 ?? if it is the tool will not work as it only works from when vauxhall got there mits into the 93 production after that date,found out the hard way myself had a 98 saab 93 some years ago. ;D
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YES IT IS ITS A 1999 BUT END OF DAY I BOUGHT IT FOR THE OMEGA SO IF IT WAS TO WORK ON THE SAAB HAPPY DAYS IF NOT NEVER MIND :-(
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hi all again
right my "My Naff Code Reader" reader arrived today :-)
not sure realy how to use it :-( on the engine bit theres loads of codes and not sure which is for mine but heres what it came up with
the engine faults are at the bottom ,but i dont no the codes yet,i will do some searching
"My Naff Code Reader" 100219a - PC based diagnostic tool
hkj
"My Naff Code Reader" - KW2000 Communication Window> 2002 (2)|Omega-B|Engine|Z 22 XE
Keyword #1: EF
Keyword #2: 8F
Normal timing parameter set.
systemSupplierSpecific: L
VIN: W0L0VBF6921010923
vehicleManufacturerECUHardwareNumber 24426542 DG
systemSupplierECUHardwareNumber: SIE 0116004300
systemSupplierECUSoftwareNumber: 6586115108
systemSupplierECUSoftwareVersionNumber: 0800
exhaustRegulationOrTypeApprovalNumber: S01003
systemNameOrEngineType: Z22XE
RepairShopCodeOrTesterSerialNumber: S001002194
ProgrammingDate: 20041021
Identifier: 161D
CalibrationDate: O10D101C
CalibrationEquipmentSoftwareNumber: L2CD100A
ECUInstallationDate: 6586055204
VehicleManufacturerSpecific: 3200
Negative answer to service 0x30
The reason is: 0x22
conditionsNotCorrectOrRequestSequenceError
Negative answer to service 0x30
The reason is: 0x22
conditionsNotCorrectOrRequestSequenceError
Negative answer to service 0x30
The reason is: 0x22
conditionsNotCorrectOrRequestSequenceError
Negative answer to service 0x30
The reason is: 0x22
conditionsNotCorrectOrRequestSequenceError
Negative answer to service 0x30
The reason is: 0x22
conditionsNotCorrectOrRequestSequenceError
Negative answer to service 0x30
The reason is: 0x12
SubFunctionNotSupported-invalidFormat
Total number of fault codes: 2
P1700 - SVS request via CAN
(00) - Present
P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
(01) - Not present
what code on the engine page should i be using for my 2002 2.2 sport (ecotec engine)
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hi all again
right my "My Naff Code Reader" reader arrived today :-)
not sure realy how to use it :-( on the engine bit theres loads of codes and not sure which is for mine but heres what it came up with
the engine faults are at the bottom ,but i dont no the codes yet,i will do some searching
"My Naff Code Reader" 100219a - PC based diagnostic tool
hkj
"My Naff Code Reader" - KW2000 Communication Window> 2002 (2)|Omega-B|Engine|Z 22 XE
Keyword #1: EF
Keyword #2: 8F
Normal timing parameter set.
systemSupplierSpecific: L
VIN: W0L0VBF6921010923
vehicleManufacturerECUHardwareNumber 24426542 DG
systemSupplierECUHardwareNumber: SIE 0116004300
systemSupplierECUSoftwareNumber: 6586115108
systemSupplierECUSoftwareVersionNumber: 0800
exhaustRegulationOrTypeApprovalNumber: S01003
systemNameOrEngineType: Z22XE
RepairShopCodeOrTesterSerialNumber: S001002194
ProgrammingDate: 20041021
Identifier: 161D
CalibrationDate: O10D101C
CalibrationEquipmentSoftwareNumber: L2CD100A
ECUInstallationDate: 6586055204
VehicleManufacturerSpecific: 3200
Negative answer to service 0x30
The reason is: 0x22
conditionsNotCorrectOrRequestSequenceError
Negative answer to service 0x30
The reason is: 0x22
conditionsNotCorrectOrRequestSequenceError
Negative answer to service 0x30
The reason is: 0x22
conditionsNotCorrectOrRequestSequenceError
Negative answer to service 0x30
The reason is: 0x22
conditionsNotCorrectOrRequestSequenceError
Negative answer to service 0x30
The reason is: 0x22
conditionsNotCorrectOrRequestSequenceError
Negative answer to service 0x30
The reason is: 0x12
SubFunctionNotSupported-invalidFormat
Total number of fault codes: 2
P1700 - SVS request via CAN
(00) - Present
P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
(01) - Not present
what code on the engine page should i be using for my 2002 2.2 sport (ecotec engine)
Check the plugs are not immersed in either oil or water (starting with plug No. 3)
Then clear the codes & see what reappears :y
Here is a list of Fault Codes for your car:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1197277611
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thanks for your reply
ive checked the plugs all is well,all clean no oil or water,and there new plugs
it also only seems to happen once the car is hot ,could it be the coil pack breaking down???
also maybe its because i think i had the "My Naff Code Reader" on the wrong setting (on the engine part it had loads of dif codes which i asume is the dif engines)as the codes it came up with arnt on the list in the above link :-(
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This code is an old one as it says 'Not Present'
P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
(01) - Not present
Clear the codes as suggested, then read again.
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what settings are you using as that engine record, should just read fault codes, should be the second one down on right side fault codes use that and wipe them then try again and see what comes up then. record only work when engine is running.
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right im still not sure on the engine page on the "My Naff Code Reader" which one i should use for a 2002 2.2 ecotec engine
heres a screen shot of what i mean
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/comop.png)
can someone please tell me which of the above i should be using
also is there some kind of manual anywhere for the "My Naff Code Reader" software?so then i may be able to use it correctly
cheers
griff
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If it's petrol Z22 XE
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:-) cheers for that mate :-)
so i assume if it was derv it would be y 22 dth ???
and i assume the numbers are the engine size?
and ideas on the transmission page ? its a auto box i have
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......
and ideas on the transmission page ? its a auto box i have
AR25 for all but 3.0/3.2 V6's which have an AR35 :y :y
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hi all again
i took your advise and cleared the codes and ran the car ,light came on a few more times each time i reset/cleared the light,on the fourth time i saved the fault codes ,heres what i got
ENGINE
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/engine.png)
then GEARBOX
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/gearbox.png)
seeing the engine one says number 3 misfire,and its got new plugs and theres no oil/water/crap in there could this poss be coil pack going tits up ? (as again it only happens when car is warm)
as for gearbox any ideas?? (im just going to cross ref the codes after writing this to see what they are)
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:-( cant seem to find any of the above codes :-( for either engine or gearbox :-(
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Hello again Griff :y
As to the correct choice for gearbox code reading, you need to choose AR25/35 on the Transmission page of your codereader.
Your gearbox code seems to point to a cam sensor problem. You will need to replace said sensor with a genuine vx part from a stealer :( Please see the link at the end of this post ;)
As for the misfire code, this is still present so you have a problem on no.3 cylinder. I suggest you remove the Dis pack completely & check the general condition of the unit paying particular attention to the plug covers & rubber 'boots' that grip the plug. There should be no evidence of water or oil contamination, splits, cracks or general deterioration of any part of the unit (pay particular attention to no.3 connector). Also, it might be worth changing no.3 plug with another (say no.1?), clearing the codes & running the car a few times to see if the misfire moves from cyl3 to cyl1? :y
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CCYQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.omegaowners.com%2Fforum%2FYaBB.pl%3Fnum%3D1252929393%2F0&ei=ToMfTYPdK42JhQe61ci3Dg&usg=AFQjCNHKlH4zKykWXuCtUMCNsdtcKzvdng
Also here is a list of GM (ie Vauxhall) specific Engine & Transmission codes, that seem to have more detail than the ones available in the OOF archive? :y
http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd2p.html#gmd
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:-( cant seem to find any of the above codes :-( for either engine or gearbox :-(
P1781 - Engine Torque Signal Circuit
Generic code for GMC amongst others. Not pertinent to yours
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thanks for the replis ,i will check /move plug 3 around tommorrow to see if it moves cylinders
is there anyway to check the cam sensor??????
also what kind of £ are the cam sensors?ive read somewhere need to get a gen vauxhall one
as for the gearboxd sensor ,is that fixable? ie clean etc? any idea what it looks like?
cheers for everyones help
ps thanks for the code link page,seems much better than the one i had been looking at
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right been out again today to have a play
i swopped plugs around trying to see if the fault would change from pot 3 ,but no even with plugs swopped then the rubbers on the coilpack swopped round (as 2 of the 4 seem alot softer than the other 2)no joy still the same fault :-(
i must say the new plugs are all sooted up 2
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050675.jpg)
which i assume means running very rich???
anyway whilse out there i decided to try and fine out where all the coolants going,ive already done the new thermostat housing and thermosate so next was the HBV
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050673.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050674.jpg)
what a thingy to change that was!!! the clips where all in the wrong direction! i dont think its ever been changed as the pipes where almost seized on to it!! and even worst,once off there was no sign of leaked :-( also once refitted i still have only cold air from the heater :-(!!!!
also while doing the HBV ithought i better flushed the heater maxtrix out as per the "how do thread", very easy with the hose pipe trick :-)
To do the HBV i thought it would be easier to take the wipers and scuttle off for ease of acsess ,and it made it much easer :-)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050667.jpg)
while it was off i cleaned all the drains out (full or shit!)and also cleaned/hoovered the pollen fillet out!
then i thought sod it while i was there i took the EGR thing off,gave it a good clean with carb cleaner,lots of shit ran out of it !!!!
all back together so gave her a start!!! saw some smoke come from side of enige?????
spanners back out !!! on the heat sheild,took it off and found this
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050672.jpg)
the manifold is cracked!!!!!!!!! (not happy)
turned the heat shield over to confirm it is cracked,
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050676.jpg)
YEP IT DEF MUST BE!!!! sounds daft but its round about where pot 3 is could that course the misfire???????
then after running/driving her for about 30mins the coolant warning came on again!!! thats approx 1 ltre in 30mins with no sign of leakage apart from the steam from the exhaust!! i still think it must be the water jacket on the hg giving me this problem,what everyone think????
would i be best and just change the hg just to make sure and have piece of mind that its not that?? ive seen hg kits on fleabay for around £40 then its just a few hrs of my time,dont think i would need to get head skimmed as its never got that hot! would have to wait and see on that score
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do you know if the head gasket was ever changed? Looking at that exhaust manifold the gasket does not look multi-layer :-/
Wonder if that has an effect on cracking the manifold?
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right enought is enought!!!!!
earlier this week i ordered a new cam locking tool,hg kit & new bolts
i still think its the hg but im feed up of not knowing!!!!!! so soon i will no one way or the other !!! im replacing it asap
i was off today so seeing i had nothing to do i decided i would start taking her apart(still waiting for the postman so could not take the head off as nothing to lock the cams)
right here goes,easy bits first
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050678.jpg)
inlet (had majour probs getting the fuel rail off :-( )
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050677.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050680.jpg)
pot 3 seems to have oil in there?
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050679.jpg)
next the exuast manifold (parted it completely from exhaust as need to sort the crack out)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050682.jpg)
cam belt cover off
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050684.jpg)
and thats all i can do till the cam tool arrives :-(HOPEFULLY TOMMORROW
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i took the TB in the house for cleaning as it was totaly covered in crap :-( (water and oil it looked like,and years of normal crap)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050687.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050688.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050710.jpg)
30 mins later and plenty of carb cleaner,cotton buds and clothes :-)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050712.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050713.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050714.jpg)
:-) like new again :-)
i read on the thread about making sure the tiny hole (ting in tb housing and large on the outside)in the tb is clean,got a thin bit of wire and got loads and loads of crap out of it,it was totaly bloked!!
but now clean and flowing again :-)
(what does that small pin prick hole do?)
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well cam tool nore gasket set arrived today :-(
but nether mind i may as well start
well all head bolts out and about to lift the head off (i think the head must have been done some time in the past as the head bolts all had copper slip on them!)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050715.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050716.jpg)
here goes,a quick pull and tap with a soft mallet and
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050717.jpg)
as you can see looks to me as its been leaking,gasket off
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050718.jpg)
closer inspection
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050719.jpg)
pot 3 def seems wet
to cold in garage so took it in the house to play with :-)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050723.jpg)
as you can see above all valves out :-) ready for new oil stem seals being fitted,will also clean the valves before i grind them back in
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050727.jpg)
all numbered and ready to go back in,norm put the head in the dish washer brings them up a treat and gets all the mayo out,but wife says no this time :-( so its soaking in the bath in stead lol
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well knackered pots 2 and 3.
plans to pressure test and skim on that head?
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..... norm put the head in the dish washer brings them up a treat and gets all the mayo out,but wife says no this time :-( so its soaking in the bath in stead lol
;D ;D ;D ;D
As said to Debs, it's always nice to find specific fault when your looking to fix a problem.
Mind all those bits don't all get knocked off. :-? ;) ;)
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Your wife must really love you Griff! ;D mine would have put my head in the dishwasher followed by the rest of me in little bits mate!! :o :D
From the look of your head gasket, it appears someone in the past has put a bottle of leak seal in the system & it has almost completely blocked the waterways between the affected cylinders causing localised overheating. Make sure you completely flush the cooling system very thoroughly when you get it all back together but with the waterpump removed (I am assuming you are going fit a new pump, belt & tensioners ?).
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From the look of your head gasket, it appears someone in the past has put a bottle of leak seal in the system & it has almost completely blocked the waterways between the affected cylinders causing localised overheating.
I'm not so sure. The headgasket has different sized holes adacent to each of the waterways to even out the coolant flow. It doesn't look like blocked waterways to me.
The copper grease on the head bolts is a little odd, I wonder if new bolts were fitted and torqued and angle tightened correctly :-/
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what kind of price is it to get the head pressure tested and skimmed? (just money is real short this mnth,seeing just had xmas)
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Griff I have only just picked up this thread, been away.
I am guessing you are stationned in Hohne or Fally? If so go and see the bfg testing station mechanic (cant remember his name) he wil point you in the right direction and will be able to give you costs. I did the same engine about 4 years ago on a veccy and it cost about £30 to get it skimmed, not sure how much pressure testing is.
For parts you can go see the Opel place in Bergen but take the part numbers, their english is pretty poor but they try their best.
Shame I am no longer over there I would have come and given you a hand ;)
Good luck :y
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.... their english is pretty poor but they try their best. ....
But is your Deutsch any better than their English? ;) ;)
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ya im up in fally for my sins lol
as for my german its pritty pritty poor :-( i need to get on a course seeing im in there country
will try the opel garage in bergen
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WELL AFTER A NIGHT SOAKING IN THE BATH THE HEAD LOOKS MUCH BETTER :-)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050734.jpg)
ive also cleaned all the valves up ,just need to wait now till the hg kit arrives before i can grind the valves back in as need to fit the new oil seals first
BUT i am a bit concerned ref looking to get the head skimmed :-? :-? :-? :-? :-? :-?
am i right that the lip in the below pic is some kind of marker of how far you can slim the head?
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/MARKER.png)
im just a bit worried as when you look at the next pic you will see how close the valves are already!
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/VALVE.png)
i also assume seeing the valves are already so close that the head must have already have been skimmed some time in the past???????
how much more can be taken off before the head is no good?
also will it not rise the compression in the engine???
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.... their english is pretty poor but they try their best. ....
But is your Deutsch any better than their English? ;) ;)
I am fluent in several languages, just not german. I did my best to learn some while i was there, but mechanical parts were not in my dictionary :y
There's only so much I can fit in this amazing brain of mine ;D ;D
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The does look a but close, it was a while since I did mine so I cant remember the clearance. If you dont want to get it skimmed maybe you can get a metal ruler and some feeler blades to see if it is warped.
edit: is that valve properly seated there? Besides once you grind the valves in they will sit marginally lower
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....
I am fluent in several languages, just not german. ....
I'm impressed with anyone who can speak even one other language. :y :y :y :y
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....
I am fluent in several languages, just not german. ....
I'm impressed with anyone who can speak even one other language. :y :y :y :y
Debs is still the best linguist I know :y
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...
that the head must have already have been skimmed some time in the past???????
how much more can be taken off before the head is no good?
There'll be a minimum thickness for the head somewhere, but the fact the valves are so close to the head's face doesn't mean it's already been skimmed. Where the valve is so close, the piston will have cut outs in the crown to accommodate them.
also will it not rise the compression in the engine???
It will, but only very marginally and not that you'd notice. When you skim a head, you're only removing the very minimum of material to ensure it's flat and maybe remove corrosion around a water way. You'd be surprised how big a step just a 0.005" cut looks. :y :y
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next was to clean the block,got my scraper and nipped to get some petrol to get it crystal clean!!!!
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050741.jpg)
also gave the pots a good clean (not with scaper lol just petrol,cloth and plenty of elbow grease lol)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050742.jpg)
happy with that :-) only took about 30mins :-)
so thats every thing cleaned (all mayo gone) labled (so goes back just where it should)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050743.jpg)
and as soon as the hg kit arrives (and i get a day off ) will all be put back together and hopefully that will be all the probs sorted :-) well apart from the cracked exhaust manifold but that will have to wait till next pay day lol
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and no when i took the pic of the 1 valve sat in the head it was not sat correctly ie its not ground back in yet nore did it have the spring connected,cant do that till hg kit arrives and i get the new oil stem seals
but up to now the head gasket has been much much easier that the rover 1.8 vvc (twin cam belt) i did in my 16v mini conversion
then again its not back together yet lol its always easy to take things apart,its putting them back together thats the testing bit lol esp getting them to work again lol time will tell
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as you can see on the above pics of the block,the pistons do NOT have indents for the valves,they do curve at the edges but weather this is enought to miss the valves if i get the head skimmed im not sure :-(
anyone no where the min marker on a 2.2 head would be????
or what it would look like???
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Don't forget the thickness of the gasket will add to the clearance. :)
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mmmm never thought of that :-)
just going to start a new thread and a google search for where is the marker on the 2.2 head to say the min for purpose of skimming
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Griff, the cylinder head measurement should be 134mm as this screengrab of TIS2000 shows. Hope this helps :y
(http://i863.photobucket.com/albums/ab197/philrich1064/screenshots21.jpg)
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cheers mate :-)
ive just copied that pic mate incase the mods delete it!
but ive got tis2000 myself but dont relay no how to work it ,think i better have a look
once again cheers mate
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erm now im all :-(
after the post ref thickness on the head 134mm
im very :-(
just got the micrometre out and heres the results ,im confussed as the car ran ok
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050744.jpg)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050745.jpg)
its reading !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 127 mm !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
that means its had 7mm skimmed in the past !! that cant be righ!!!!!!!!!!!!
any ideas
i really need to no if theres a min marker somewhere on the 2.2 head!!!
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....
just got the micrometre out and v......v
That's a vernier aka a very-near ;) ;) ;) ;)
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see if you can take another piccy without the flash.
It's too difficult to read due to the flash. :y
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hi there
do you mean i need a better one? ie electronic ? im sure no one could have skimmed 7 mm off it surly if they had the engine would not have worked???
do you no if theres a min marker on the head some where???
cheers for your help mate ,this is worring me now lol
cheers
griff
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hi there
do you mean i need a better one? ie electronic ? im sure no one could have skimmed 7 mm off it surly if they had the engine would not have worked???
do you no if theres a min marker on the head some where???
cheers for your help mate ,this is worring me now lol
cheers
griff
;D you're using a vernier, often referred to as a very-near because the reading is open to interpretation. A micrometer looks like ....
(http://www.glue-it.com/model-engineering/general-information/glossary/m/pictures/micrometer-001.jpg)
and is considered more accurate.
I'd say it was impossible for 7mm to have been machined from your cylinder head. Either the 134mm quoted isn't right or you're reading your vernier wrong! ;) ;) ;) hence me asking for a picture without the flash :y :y
Min marker? I've never ever looked for a min marker but doubt there is one only because the difference between a new head & a min thickness head is only usually a fag packet thickness, so the marker would be as wide as the maximum you're allowed to skim from it.
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never used one.. but the reading of 126-7 looks like from the edde(right hand side of the piccy) :-/
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never used one.. but the reading of 126-7 looks like from the edde(right hand side of the piccy) :-/
None of mine have a window on them and you line a zero mark up on the sliding bit with the graduations of the fixed scale. Either that or the easy way of a digital vernier ......, especially as your arms get shorter! ::) ::) ::)
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CHEERS FOR THE REPLY
ive tried to take pics with and without a flash both are hard to see but this seems best
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/HHHHHH.png)
im reading it 127mm at the edge enless im reading it wrong? first time ive ever used it lol
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Hmm. I wonder what's been going on there?
My guess :
1) The 134mm spec is wrong.
or
2) The head may have been replaced by a refurbed one. They may have also skimmed the top face and then line-bored the camshaft journals so the 7mm has not come off the gasket face. Even still, 7mm seems a lot.
Maybe someone else has a z22xe head they could measure?
Nonetheless, this one is known to run Ok without valves meeting pistons, so it will do so again.
Skimming isn't by any means essential when changing a gasket. OK, this one has clearly been worked on and failed a second time, so it would merit a close look at the head for any imperfections, especially around the fire ring areas, and inspection for any warping. It looks to be good in the photos but they don't tell the whole story.
If the head and block faces appear flat and smooth I would put it together with a new gasket without skimming and see how it goes, TBH.
Kevin
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....
im reading it 127mm at the edge enless im reading it wrong? first time ive ever used it lol
have you got a zero mark on your scale inside the window? I take it scale reads from zero to 25 or 5010 (I'm getting mixed up with a metric & imp micrometer thimble ::)) :-/
If you have, that's what you're lining up with against the fixed scale.
Have you got a normal rule you can use? You'll be able to measure within 1/2mm with that, certainly within 7mm :y :y :y
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have a read of this. :y
http://www.tresnainstrument.com/how_to_read_a_vernier_caliper.html
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now im pissed off!!! made myself look stupid!!!!
think i will just throw this measuring thing in the bin!!!!!!
heres why if you look below you can see on the pic that when set to 0 the jaws are miles apart total waste on money!!!!!!!
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050750.jpg)
god do i feel silly now!!!!!!!!!!
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now im pissed off!!! made myself look stupid!!!!
think i will just throw this measuring thing in the bin!!!!!!
heres why if you look below you can see on the pic that when set to 0 the jaws are miles apart total waste on money!!!!!!!
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050750.jpg)
god do i feel silly now!!!!!!!!!!
You're reading it wrong. When the jaws are closed the zero on the fixed scale will line up with the zero inside the window. :y :y :y
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Is there a scale on the little plate held by two screws in the window on your vernier?
Did the link Andy B posted help any?
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cheers andy b
now i feel even more silly!!!!!! after wot you put i reread and guess what ???
yep you guest it 134mm !!!!!! DOH!!!!!!
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Right, clean the vernier faces and close it fully. Put a pencil mark on the bottom edge of the window against the 0 and re-measure the head :y
[edit]to add - too late, you already did it ;D[/edit]
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cheers andy b
now i feel even more silly!!!!!! after wot you put i reread and guess what ???
yep you guest it 134mm !!!!!! DOH!!!!!!
Result! A vernier isn't the easiest of things to read at the best of times hence - a very near - and then when you get older & you know how to read it but can't see to read it without specs.
At least you're sorted now & have learned another skill! :y :y
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Good news, then. Your engine head hasn't been ground down to nothing and you've learnt to use your vernier. :y
;)
Kevin
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cheers andy b
now i feel even more silly!!!!!! after wot you put i reread and guess what ???
yep you guest it 134mm !!!!!! DOH!!!!!!
[/highlight]
GAWD ALMIGHTY!!!!! I am SOooo relieved Griff :D I thought I had given you duff info for a while there! ;D
If your engine didn't overheat spectacularly or for any length of time then the chances of the head being warped are very minimal imho! Try using a steel straight edge on the mating surface in different places & shine a bright torch behind it to check for gaps :y Also, only use a top quality head gasket, not something cheap! I hope it all goes straightforward from now on mate, good luck! :y
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check with a quality ruler as said should save a few quid.
the only time this method did not work was on the rover 16v heads.
but thats a different engine with a very different head gasket.
just the fact that some mentioned copper grease on the bolts and it being the centre two cylinders which (get most of the heat) have blown which might indicate possible previous major overheat.
tbh. the only cracked head to be returned from the engineers as scrap had clear small cracks between the valves in the head.
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just managed to get hold of another copy of tis2000(this ones complete lol)
found the part that posted for me yesterday ,ref thickness of head (once again thanks mate :-) )
anyway ive decided im prob not going to skim it ,but i found this on tis2000 on the same page as thickness of head,am i reading it right?????
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/BBB.png)
or is that because they want your money!!! lol
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Just come upon this post Griff so apologies for a late reply ;)
I was in the act of typing a reply yesterday about this, but then you posted to say you had misread the vernier scale & the measurement was ok! Yes, Vauxhall say you can't skim the head on omegas!!! but as anyone who has ever had to do it will tell you, it doesn't hold water (no pun intended! ::))
Most skims, even on a warped head will only need a few thou of an inch removing so no problems inherent there, but it would become a problem if the head had been skimmed previously & either too much had been removed then or the new skim combined with the last one meant too much metal being removed. :y
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quick update, head gasket kit finaly arrived late yest afternoon!!!!!
so last night i fitted the new oil stem seals,reground the valves back in then refitted the valves
refitting the valves was a pain in the arse !! getting the collets in was a bit tricky as every item i had that should help me to get the collets into the right postion seemed to be magnetic!! so of course kept moving them
anyway got them all in and right it just took me about a hour longer to do than i thought it would
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050755.jpg)
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quick update, head gasket kit finaly arrived late yest afternoon!!!!!
so last night i fitted the new oil stem seals,reground the valves back in then refitted the valves
refitting the valves was a pain in the arse !! getting the collets in was a bit tricky as every item i had that should help me to get the collets into the right postion seemed to be magnetic!! so of course kept moving them
anyway got them all in and right it just took me about a hour longer to do than i thought it would
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050755.jpg)
It's a bit late to help you on this, but might be useful for future reference - a dab of grease on either the inner surface of the collet or the collet groove on the valve stem would help 'stick' them in place. :y
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quick update, head gasket kit finaly arrived late yest afternoon!!!!!
so last night i fitted the new oil stem seals,reground the valves back in then refitted the valves
refitting the valves was a pain in the arse !! getting the collets in was a bit tricky as every item i had that should help me to get the collets into the right postion seemed to be magnetic!! so of course kept moving them
anyway got them all in and right it just took me about a hour longer to do than i thought it would
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050755.jpg)
It's a bit late to help you on this, but might be useful for future reference - a dab of grease on either the inner surface of the collet or the collet groove on the valve stem would help 'stick' them in place. :y
You beat me to it :y
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BAD BAD BAD BAD DAY!!!!!!!
IM STARTING TO HATE MY OMEGA !!!!! (sure i will love her once sorted)
right went out at lunch time with a list i wanted to do today before dark
1. fit and tighten head
2. refit cams and rocker cover
3. refit inlet
4. refit exhaust manifold
and if i got time refit the cam belt (well if my cam tool turns up today!!!!)
BUT when i got out there i popped the bonnet and :-( :-(
its been raining here now for 3 days and some how water from the scuttle has dripped onto the block and totaly filled up pot 3&4 with water!!! and my nioce clean block was all rusty again :-( (at least seeing the water was just sat in the pots i no my rings must be doing there job lol)
anyway sorted that and on with the head refitting
started to tighten in the order stated on tis2000 and to the settings 25nm +90deg+90deg+90deg+15deg
anyway when i got to the last tightening of 15deg :-( the worst thing ever happened
first !!!!my hex socket snapped!!!! (halfords pro range)
second !!!!! THE GOOD DAME FUC>ING BOLT SNAPPED!!!!!!
brand new bolts and there shit!!!!!!!!
so after 2hrs of drilling,3 snapped drill bits (which when snapped shot off deep in the engine !!!!!!(got them back when bolt was out)
i finaly managed to get the bolt out!!!!!(luckly ive got a very good bolt excracter)but ive had to use one of the old bolts in its place :-( (i no there strech bolts but they measured the same still so hopefully just the one will be ok :-( )
anyway got that finished but getting dark so i just refitted the cams ,but there to round about the correct timming postion ready for the next stage
quick question,seeing the oil thats in the car is no good am i best to drop that out,put some cheap shit in and let it run for a few mins till warm ,drop that out then refill with good stuff
will that get all the crap out? or would i be better using some kind of engine flush?
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Tell me that you made sure the headbolt tapped holes in the block were all checked for absence of water before you reassembled...?
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yep all clear and dry :-) before i started !(got cotton buds in there and rag
i assummed if they where full of water they would pure out during tighting and wet/break the new gasket
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Whose bolts were they? I know Mark has had some snap before, and likes Trecchi's
Any water and they hydrolock on the way in and wont seat.
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i did not no that :-(thank god i removed it all before starting!!!! i thought if not it would break the new gasket
but luckly im ok seeing they where dry,esp after today as its def been a bad day working on the car
the bolts where from a ebay shop called THE GASKET SHOP
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well hello all
not been on since i started to reasemble the engine,i had just bolted the head down when i got told i was going to the uk on exercise for 5 weeks :-( (i got told at 8pm one night and had to go next day at 10am:-( )
anyway im back now:-) went in the garage today and was :-( i had forgot where all the parts fitted lol (knew i should have took pics lol)
anyway ive done the timming (spot on :-) )
got all the inlet side put back together and all bolted up but i have one elec connecter i cant seem to find a home for :-(
its running off the loom just at the start of where the injectors start
theres three plugs,one goes into the air intake sensor,1 into the what i think is the water level sensor in the header tank
BUT WHERE DOES THE OTHER ONE FIT???????????
ive not checked but should it maybe plug into the alternater?
please help
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TPS on throttle body????? :-/ Any pics?
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hi again sorry didnt take any pics :-(
if needed i will get some tommorrow
ive plugged the tb plug in (big square one)
the plug i cant seem to find a home for only has 2pins like the one that plugs into the sensor under the header tank
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right i got it wrong the plug i cant find a home for has 4 pin heres a pic of it,as u can see its a shot lead so cant be far from where its sitting to where it connects but i just cant seem to see where :-(
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/mmmmmm.png)
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DOH IM SO THICK!!!!!!!
I WAS LOOKING AT THE WRONG LEAD!!!!!!!!!
ITS 3 PIN !!!! AND ITS THIS ONE BELOW
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/JJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJ.png)
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:-) FOUND IT :-)
IT GOES TO A LONG LEAD THAT GOES TO OTHER SIDE OF THE ENGINE JUST UNDER THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD UNDER THE ENGINE MOUT,NOT SURE WHAT THAT SENSOR IS BUT THATS WHAT IT PLUGS TO LOL
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:-) FOUND IT :-)
IT GOES TO A LONG LEAD THAT GOES TO OTHER SIDE OF THE ENGINE JUST UNDER THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD UNDER THE ENGINE MOUT,NOT SURE WHAT THAT SENSOR IS BUT THATS WHAT IT PLUGS TO LOL
It's your Crank Sensor lead Griff, the actual sensor can't be seen because it's hidden behind the Power Steering Pump :y
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right all back together :-) and car started first time !!! :-)
need to get some fresh oil as ive just put some real cheap oil in to hopefully flush the rest of the shit out !!!!
when first started it sounded very ruff but after a min or so it sounded back to normal :-) well apart from the loud ness of the exhaust as need to get under the car to tighten the front pipe to the manifold correctly (split it so i could weld the small crack in the exhaust manifold :-) )
then after 10mins the dreaded orange light came on :-(
did a "My Naff Code Reader" test and it came up with running rich !!
not to much of a prob :-) at least it proved it was the head gasket that had gone as now no misfire on pot 3 (where the leak looked like it was)and now all the steam from the exhaust has also stopped :-)also now the top rad pipe is not getting solid like its going to split lol
but !!!!!!! asoon as i ran her the over heat light came on again!!! :-( then dropped then came on again and keeps doing this!!!!!! could it be a knackered sensor????
when it starts getting hot the fan cuts in now as well which it never used to,on the wirer that goes to the temp sensor(think it is anyway)its a single wirer there is some of the wirer showing,could this be earthing out and coursing this????
next thing is i still have no heating either!!!!! maybe air lock??????if so how do i get rid of it??????
all pipes seem to get warm apart from the bottom pipe coming from the heater matrix!!! which inturn leads to the lower rad pipe which again does not seem to be warm :-(
im so nearly at the fixed part so i can finely start to enjoy the omega,so please help me sort this bit :-)
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I've been following your trials and tribulations with great imterest Griff, and full marks for your perseverance and - almost - complete success. I'm sure an expert will be along in a jiffy to sort out these minor issues. :y :y :y
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Can anyone help Griff? He's done well so far. :y
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RIGHT NOW IM GETTING REALY P>>>ED OFF WITH THE CAR!!! :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(
i loved my old omega but this new one is realy starting to test my love for the omega!
right as u all no ive done the hg,but seem to have a majour prob with a air lock or something,heres what ive been doing today
1. ive flushed the coolant six times!!! no more or the old blue coolant,ensured 3 times only clear water came back out! ran it each time antill the fan cut in (to ensure the thermostate had opened and the water in the block was moving throw,also had the fans on full) so now i have lovely clean 50/50 orange coolant in the system:-)
BUT STILL NO F.........g heating!!!!!!!!!!!!
i had changed the hbv but i must admit it was a cheap one from ebay :-( ,maybe thats no good??? to put my mind at rest could i just take the hbv out for now and just run the pipe from the back of the engine and run it straight to the inlet of the heater??? surly that would give me heat?and at same time prove if or not that the hbv is either working or not???????
also :-( the temp gauge!!!! not sure how to test but i think thats got problems!!!! keeps showing engine is very hot !!! sometimes when all the pipes/rad etc are only luke warm!!! BUT then when you press the brake pedal it drops down to where u would think it should be,the fan kicks in around 90ish when the gauge seems to be working fine but when it just shoots up when the pipes are still cool it does not!!!!
seeing it drops again when the brakes are pressed could it be a EARTH PROBLEM??????? would this course this???would i be best to change the sensor?(i assume the gauge is the open at back of the block with only one conector on it?)
also comes up with error code saying running lean! now i no the front pipe is leaking where it meets the manifold and also where the pipe conects to the next pipe ,seeing theres 2 cats in that section ,if theres a leak could that caurse the ecu to think its running lean????/
cheers for everyones help with this,im so close but so far
griff
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RIGHT NOW IM GETTING REALY P>>>ED OFF WITH THE CAR!!! :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(
i loved my old omega but this new one is realy starting to test my love for the omega!
right as u all no ive done the hg,but seem to have a majour prob with a air lock or something,heres what ive been doing today
1. ive flushed the coolant six times!!! no more or the old blue coolant,ensured 3 times only clear water came back out! ran it each time antill the fan cut in (to ensure the thermostate had opened and the water in the block was moving throw,also had the fans on full) so now i have lovely clean 50/50 orange coolant in the system:-)
BUT STILL NO F.........g heating!!!!!!!!!!!!
i had changed the hbv but i must admit it was a cheap one from ebay :-( ,maybe thats no good??? to put my mind at rest could i just take the hbv out for now and just run the pipe from the back of the engine and run it straight to the inlet of the heater??? surly that would give me heat?and at same time prove if or not that the hbv is either working or not???????
also :-( the temp gauge!!!! not sure how to test but i think thats got problems!!!! keeps showing engine is very hot !!! sometimes when all the pipes/rad etc are only luke warm!!! BUT then when you press the brake pedal it drops down to where u would think it should be,the fan kicks in around 90ish when the gauge seems to be working fine but when it just shoots up when the pipes are still cool it does not!!!!
seeing it drops again when the brakes are pressed could it be a EARTH PROBLEM??????? would this course this???would i be best to change the sensor?(i assume the gauge is the open at back of the block with only one conector on it?)
also comes up with error code saying running lean! now i no the front pipe is leaking where it meets the manifold and also where the pipe conects to the next pipe ,seeing theres 2 cats in that section ,if theres a leak could that caurse the ecu to think its running lean????/
cheers for everyones help with this,im so close but so far
griff
Remove vac pipe from top of HBV & plug it (small screw?) then run engine up to temp.
Yep, single connector.
What code are you getting
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the "My Naff Code Reader" just comes up saying running lean
as for the hbv so if i just block the pipe off,it will do the same as taking the hbv totaly out of the system????
what do you mean by single connection?
cheers griff
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doh just read again,forget the "what u mean about single connector lol
any ideas how much a temp gauge sensor costs?and best place to get?
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No vac = heat, so in theory remove the vac supply pipe from top of HBV & see what happens. Temp sensor listed on website
Z2.2XE from 20Y66444/31040545 12992783 £11.70 £10.54 £8.84
Don`t know whether that`s for the gauge or the ECU though :-/
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cheers for that mate,i will try that first thing in the morning :-)
and will get a new gauge,it might hopefully cure the problem :-)
as for the lean error i will do the exhaust tommorrow and see if it cures it
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Google says Rob's temperature sensor number is two-pin, so ECU, not gauge:
http://www.vauxhallworldparts.com/vauxhall.php?partnumber=12992783
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No vac = heat, so in theory remove the vac supply pipe from top of HBV & see what happens. Temp sensor listed on website
Z2.2XE from 20Y66444/31040545 12992783 £11.70 £10.54 £8.84
Don`t know whether that`s for the gauge or the ECU though :-/
Hence the "disclaimer" :)
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Just trying to clarify so the OP doesn't buy the wrong one. ;)
Having said that, I'm surprised that the gauge sensor does anything but move the gauge needle, and maybe light up the overtemp led (is there one?).
I'd've thought it was the ECU temperature sensor that caused the relays to switch on fans (if that is ever done by anything but the thermoswitch(es) in the radiator?)? :-/
Sorry I know nothing, it seems. Too much wine, not enough sense. :-[
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The single terminal gauge sensor does nothing more than drive the gauge and the LED :y
The fans are controlled by a set of thermal swicthes in the end of the rad.
The ECU has a further two pin sensor and is located next to the gauge one.
If the gauge sensor wire shorts to ground (note. not earth) then it will hit the top, so check the connector and wires to see if they are catching on anything metal or have worn through.
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Is the water pump definitely pumping water???
If it wasn't doing much, that might explain all of this mess?
:-/
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how can i check if the water pump is pumping????
when i did the c am belt the pump seemed fine,spun smothly and no play
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Did you remove the pump to check it or just spin it whilst it was in position.
The recommended is to ALWAYS replace the pump when doing the cambelt (which should also have the tensioner and idlers replaced at the same time).
I would be tempted to pull the pump (if it hasn't been done) and check it carefuly paying close attention to the impeller.
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how can i check if the water pump is pumping????
when i did the c am belt the pump seemed fine,spun smothly and no play
You should be able to see coolant spurting into the expansion tank from the thin hose that comes from the rad, with flow rate in proportion to revs. I think. If there's no flow or very little, that may indicate that the pump is'n't pumping (enough).
This may only work once the thermostat has started to open though, not sure.
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::) ::) ::) i was going to change the water pump when i did the cam belt and tensiorns BUT i did not have enought £££££s ::) ::) ::) ::) ::)(if you all think that could be the prob i will get a new one as now i have just been paid)
like i said i did spin it and feel for any loose play(not sure if its ever been changed as got no docs ref cam belt or water pump,but it looks like new lol)
i will check tom how much coolant is getting pumped back into the header in ratio to revs,i no it def is pumping it in there but not sure if stronger with revs!
what would course the pump not to pump correctly? surely as long as its not leaking and its spinning without any play it can only pump as it should do??/ or do the fins in them break down????
anyway today i had planned to do all sorts to her! BUT it was not to be!!!! lol SODS LAW!!!!!!
first job was to do the exhaust (front pipe both joints!)
anyway the manifold side was easy ,the other end aaaarrrrrr
both bolts where bent!!! and snapped!!!! took me 2 hrs to drill the old ones out :-( anyway did that ,got it all back together and STILL BLOWING ITS ARSE OFF ON THE GASKET JOINING TO THE MANIFOLD (where it joins to the manifold) did it again and still the same :-( my own fault as i reused the old gasket so tommorrow i will have to get a new metal gasket for it!
then while driving off the ramps i scraped the bottom of the front end on the way down :-(
next was dropping the oil oil (the one from the hgf)i thre 1/2 a can of engine flush in with it,had it on idle for ten mins then TRIED TO DROP IT!!!!!!
could not beleave it!!! the oil plug was on so tight! i had to use my large torqeux wrench to shift it!!! it was set to 50nm and still clicked while undoing the bolt,anyway got that got and MY GOD THE STATE OF THE OIL!!!!!!!!!
ive got a new oil filter,and some top quailty oil BUT ive left the old filter on,put some cheap oil and some more engine flush in with it,i will start her tommorrow ,let her idle for 20mins then drop her again that way hopefully it should get all the crap out of the engine before i replace the oil filter and refill with good quailty oil :-)
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right you all had me thinking all night!
so got up at 0600 this morning and ordered a new waterpump!!!! (one good thing about germany is the local car shop opens at 0600 !!!!! )
will be here at midday as they had to order it me,cost 64 euros so around £55 ,checked on ebay and yes there cheaper there but by the time i got it here with postage 1 i would be back at work and 2 it would of cost me £14 postage
just hope this solves prob,but like u all said i should have changed it when i changed the cam belt and tenssioners ,either way at least i no it will have been done,and should only take 1hr to change seeing i no all bolts are nice and new so no seized
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:-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[
WELL I FEEL A idiot NOW LOL YOU WHERE ALL RIGHT !!! :-[ :-[
I GOT THE NEW WATER PUMP TODAY !!!!& :-(
heres the old one9i had tried the baring and it was fine ,but when i took the old one out :-(
as u can se looks fine
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050780.jpg)
PMSL
then you look at the other side >:( :( :o >:( :(
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g246/jogriffin/P1050781.jpg)
all the fu...ng fines are missing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
that def explains all the probs ive been having!!!!!!! def not a knackered temp gauge when it said it was hot it WAS!!!
thing is why has it done this??????i spent 2 hrs taking all the pipes off looking for the fines,there should be 6 but i only found 3 :-( dont no where they are but there not in the pipes,rad or the head enless there in the block?,ive pumped as much high preasure water throwe it as i can but cant fined the other 3 fines :o :o :o :o :o
so anyway thought that was bad ANTILL I TRied to refit thE CAM BElt!!!! its a new belt kit with pulleys and tenisner,but when trying to refit the oppsing tensior broke!!!!!!! i think this car it the devil!!!!!!!!!!!
ordered another one that hopefully will be here tom,but at least ive def found the route to all my problems!!! hopefully that will be it and i can have years of lovely driving of the omega once the cam belts back on :-)
IM SURE TIME WILL TELL!!!!!!!!
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"Why has it done this?"
My best guess would be that you had a freeze-up at some point and that was trying to pump ice/slush, which it isn't going to do well at.
Sorry to hear about the tensioner, you are indeed having a run of bad luck.
As you say, should be getting better very soon. :)
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i so so so hope so!!!!
like i said before had a 1998 omega and that was fantasic!!! never had a prob and was the nicesst car ive ever drove!! but i did pay a lot of money for that one,this one i new it had probs thats why it was so cheap !(but its def more tasking than i first thought lol) but hopefully once sorted i will get 1000ssssss of trouble free motoring :-) time will tell
BUT IF IM HONEST I LOVE MESSING AROUND WITH CARS :-) IT CHILLES ME OUT,much less stressfull than my everyday job lol,when im not doing the omega on days off im doing this
http://www.16vminiclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6478
not touched her for aqbout 2 mnths as when not at work ive been playing with the omega!!! the omega is the wifes car so have to keep her happy pmsl she lets me have the money to spend on my toy :-) the mini!!! 167bhp in a car that weights 459kg :-)
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i feel such a idiot now!! if only i had not tried to save ££££s(well if i had the ££££s weeks ago pmsl) it would have been sorted weeks ago lol
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That impeller, or what's left of it, looks very like the OE BMW one that I took off my car. I hope that your new one is a bit more robust. :y :y :y
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Bloody hell mate, an Omega with problems AND a Mini! You're a glutton for punishment ;D
I'd have given up a long time ago, I admire your patience and never-say-die attitude, I've been reading this for ages wondering what the hell else could go wrong, I really hope everything goes smoothly for you from now on and you can start to enjoy owning your car :y
But I won't hold my breath
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lol i can def say the MINI has coursed me many more probs up to now lol (but thats all the fun of it,and she is dame fast lol)
as for the new water pump,YES the fans on it look about 3 times thicker than on the old one,hopefully they will not fall off lol
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:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
SORTED!!!!! :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :)
the car at long last seems to run as it should :) :) :) :) :) :)
the new water pump has def made all the differance,i know have heating :-)
i put the new cam belt kit on yesterday,did the exhaust,and reset the light on the dash with my "My Naff Code Reader"
then i took her for a drive :-) drove lovely,no temp issues :-)and for first time ever in the car lovely warm air blowing at me :-) heaven!!!!
BUT THERES ALWAYS A BUT!!!!!!since taking the battery off while doing the work i cant seem to get the radio back on :-(
ive read the radio mannual that comes with the car BUT to enter the sec code the rad has to turn on /show safe mode!! mine is just dead!! no power so cant even enter code!!! im going to check the fuses again but i got the multi meter on the fuse box yesterday and all fuses seem ok :o :o
anyone got any ideas?
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not cost me too much either (realy)
1. head gasket kit + new bolts = 60 euro
2. water pump =72 euros
3. hbv=27 euros
4. thermosate with housing =21 euros
5. "My Naff Code Reader" = 30 euros
6. cam belt kit = 127 euros
7. oil ,filter and engine flush 70 euros
8. anti freeze = 12 euros
TOTAL 419 EUROS (APPROX £350)
SO GLAD I COULD DO IT ALL MY SELF ELSE IT WOULD HAVE COST MUCH MUCH MORE ££££££S
THANKS FOR EVERYONE ON THIS FORUM FOR THERE HELP!
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:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
SORTED!!!!! :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :)
the car at long last seems to run as it should :) :) :) :) :) :)
the new water pump has def made all the differance,i know have heating :-)
i put the new cam belt kit on yesterday,did the exhaust,and reset the light on the dash with my "My Naff Code Reader"
then i took her for a drive :-) drove lovely,no temp issues :-)and for first time ever in the car lovely warm air blowing at me :-) heaven!!!!
BUT THERES ALWAYS A BUT!!!!!!since taking the battery off while doing the work i cant seem to get the radio back on :-(
ive read the radio mannual that comes with the car BUT to enter the sec code the rad has to turn on /show safe mode!! mine is just dead!! no power so cant even enter code!!! im going to check the fuses again but i got the multi meter on the fuse box yesterday and all fuses seem ok :o :o
anyone got any ideas?
Some radios have a fuse very carefully hidden behind them, requiring removal of radio to check! As in my CCRT700. Well done with all your work Griff. :y :y :y
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Well done Griff ... now get out and enjoy her :y
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hi again every one
took car for a BFG test today (its the german mot,for british army )
anyway the car PASSED with flying colours :-)
APART from i need to get cont head lights !! thing is ive been looking and need to no what lights will fit my 2002 omega
ive seen loads and loads of headlight but only up to 1999 model of omega ,
mines def the new shape but ive only found one set for any omega after 1999 but there zeons ,but how can you tell what lights you have? ie zeons or normal?
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If you have an adjuster wheel on the left side of the headlight switch you will have standard halogen projectors. No wheel = self-levelling HID`s (or commonly referred to as "xenons")
This is what you need, bit pricey new
http://cgi.ebay.de/Frontscheinwerfer-Opel-Omega-C-99-03-rechts-LWR-/140418128673?pt=Autoteile_Zubeh%C3%B6r&hash=item20b1929b21
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RIGHT!!!!!!!!
took car out for a spin (approx 80miles round trip)
BUT after about ten miles the engine warning light came on!!!!
i had the "My Naff Code Reader" and my laptop with me (just incase lol) anyway i read the code and cleared it but it keeps coming up :-(
heres the "My Naff Code Reader" report
----------------------------------------------------------
"My Naff Code Reader" 090821d - PC based diagnostic tool
GRIFF2 AND SON
"My Naff Code Reader" - KW2000 Communication Window> 2002|Omega-B|Engine|Z 22 XE
Keyword #1: EF
Keyword #2: 8F
Normal timing parameter set.
Total number of fault codes: 1
P0141 - O2 Sensor 2 Heater Open Circuit
(04) - Present
---------------------------------------------------------
now even with that the car seemed to run spot on :-)
im assumming thats the lamba sensor????
and its the 2nd one,nearest the middle box???
i had disconnected the sensors when i took the front pipe off,and i had noticed the 2nd sensors wire seemed tight so i repostioned it
if seeing it was tight its somehow pulled on the wire can this be fixed?? as i no the metal casing on the senser too seems very loose for some reason
or will it need a new sensor??? also on one of the "My Naff Code Reader" reports it also said RUNNING LEAN ,would a knackered sensor do this???
am i ok running her while this prob is on going????
it passed its BFG (german mot for brittish army)so the emsions are ok
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hi again every one
took car for a BFG test today (its the german mot,for british army )
anyway the car PASSED with flying colours :-)
APART from i need to get cont head lights !! thing is ive been looking and need to no what lights will fit my 2002 omega
ive seen loads and loads of headlight but only up to 1999 model of omega ,
mines def the new shape but ive only found one set for any omega after 1999 but there zeons ,but how can you tell what lights you have? ie zeons or normal?
Isn't there a lever inside you head lights to cut the left hand up sweep of the light beam to the UK kerb?
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O2 sensor 2 is surely going to be the cat-efficiency monitoring sensor, and as such has no influence on fuelling at all.
No problems running with it as is, except the annoyance of the dash light.
See if you can get a secondhand known-good sensor off one of the breakers on here, as and when.
The running lean may be a hangover from when it was trying to fuel correctly despite the HG problem, and so may go away as the ECU re-learns now that the fault is gone. You mentioned a gasket leak manifold/downpipe I think, which may also have monkeyed around with the ECU's and the primary lambda sensor's ability to get the fuelling spot-on.
Is it leak free now? You really don't want pre-cat fumes wafting around the bay, as they may get through to the cabin-air intake and be dangerous to health.
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thanks for the replies,i will try and get a secondhand known good one from some where
as for the gasket leak ,thats all sorted now,so have no leaks anywhere :-)
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gotta say Griff well done on this car your perserverance paid off and now you've got a good motor congrats :y
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Well done with the car Griff :y
You've taken all the crap it could throw at you and come out a clear winner ;D :y
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yeah, gotta say griff, your perseverance has been nothing short of epic!
really hope you get to enjoy her now.... :)
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.........but you should have bought a 'proper' V6 miggy in the first place! ;D
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well ive BEEN enjoying her till this morning!!!
NOW THE BLOODYRADIATOR HAS JUST GONE !!!!!!!
:-( :-( :-( :-( :-( :-(
its seems very strange though as its not the fines etc that have gone !
looking at it from the front of the car its the plastic part of the rad on the drivers side,its almost like the seal some how has gone between the plastic part where it gones to the metal part of the rad,and not just a little bit its leaking all the way down!
(wish i could just hit it so it seals again lol)
im pritty sure there prob is nothing i can do apart from getting a new rad :-( but does anyone no if
1. this is quite a common prob?
2. any way of fixing it?
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:'( Bad luck fella. I was just thinking about you the other day, assuming from the 'radio silence' that all was well.
I had to replace the rad on ours before I realised the HG was causing most of the problems. I took it apart a bit out of curiosity, and took a couple of poorish pictures. I didn't look at it very closely at the time with respect to the failure you've seen, 'cos ours cracked in the plastic just near where the top hose attaches, but as far as I can see/remember, the main metal section has a load of fingers that crimp over onto the plastic parts at each end. Looking at my pics, I can only guess that the white rectangle around the perimeter of the alloy section is some sort of compliant material that the outer rim of the plastic sections seal against.
Edge view of alloy 'main' part:
(http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/EZ_Pete/72bb4577.jpg)
Inside view of plastic endcap:
(http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/EZ_Pete/0243eac2.jpg)
You can see in my pic of the plastic (other end from your prob) that it's distorted a bit laterally, a bit like a plastic camcover ( ::)). I guess a bit of that and a bit of distortion in the plane perpendicular to that, and the metal fingers are going to move and loosen, leading to what you've got.
Never heard of it happening before though.
I doubt you'r egoing to be able to fix it in any lasting manner. :(
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Congrats are definitely in order for what you've done. :y