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[polilara]

The original topic is below in bottom.

Then I changed Ballast in Nov 2022. Unfortunately still right side fires or not. In the morning it Fires but after a while when started again it usually does not. Left side 100% ok. Happens when Day Light Relay tries to fire or when I turn the switch. So perhaps something after this 12V is splitting into 2...

Below is what I learned from original topic reply #6 from TB:

"Just looked at the wiring diagrams, and its only one 12v feed from the daytime running "relay", splitting into 2 just before the fuses
F22 and F31."

What plugs should be checked if those fuses contrlos left and right side? Can this be a Fuse problem? Any relays? I do not have diagrams. And MOT next week. Please help.

https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=147401.msg1957513#msg1957513

[polilara]

Found one schema. If X1 (red arrow) is a connector having wires 96, 104 and 108 latest 108 leading to E10 Head Light Dipped Beam-Right. If fuses are ok perhaps this connector have a problem. Any idea where it is located?

[Doctor Gollum]

Remove both kick panels and check the plugs for moisture/corrosion.

X1 should be the larger of the two square plugs on the drivers sides 

[polilara]

Thanks DG, so LH driven car in Finland and Fuse box is in left side  under steering wheel. So that's drivers side for me.  Let' see what I find, I start from fuses although unlikely and continue to kick panels removal.

[polilara]

So left side kick panel off now, never seen so many wires. Maybe 300pc. There are two very large connectors, Green and blue. Green one is larger. Do you mean that I open it? Everything seems neat clean and dry. Never been there earlier. Fuse 31 was ok. Not oxidized. Is there other interesting plus in the right side?

[polilara]

I did not yet continue to right side. I removed fuse box to see if there is something loose behind F31. Seemed Ok. Two Yellow cables were coming from there. Replaced fuse   as it has been there about 22 years. Tried to move it there in and out to polish possible oxidations. Lamp fires every time when cold. I tried 20 times. Strange.

[Doctor Gollum]

The X1 plug is the last connection before the plug to the ballast.

I would identify the correct pinout for that yellow wire, then split the plug and take a closer look at both sides of the plugs.

If you have any, a spray of contact cleaner won't hurt whilst you're there.

Next step will be the plug at the ballast itself.

[polilara]

The X1 plug is the last connection before the plug to the ballast.

I would identify the correct pinout for that yellow wire, then split the plug and take a closer look at both sides of the plugs.

If you have any, a spray of contact cleaner won't hurt whilst you're there.

Next step will be the plug at the ballast itself.

Thanks for comments, I agree; both X1 and ballast plug can be the root cause for this but how are the joints marked with red circles before X1 physically done and where are they? Is it possible that splitting to two is done inside the Female side of X1. Somewhere have to be joint(s) for this splitting?

[Doctor Gollum]

They split at the fuse box.

[polilara]

Ok, thanks, both big ones in footwell opened, sprayed with PRF 7-78, connected and opened 5 times each. Now working with ballast plug. How about earthing of the lamp? Where is that point. Might be earthing problem when firing.

[Doctor Gollum]

From memory, on the chassis rail/inner front wing towards the front corners...

Possibly under the air filter box if right hand...

[polilara]

So, completed also with ballast plug, dissasembled the connectors from the plug, one of them seemed to be a bit loose. I bent it "tight" and put it back. I also sprayed another plug in main light having brown thick wire, perhaps earthing the whole lamp? This morning went to MOT 7.00 and both lights fired when engineer started the engine (DLR). So one year more time to find the root cause if still problematic. Thanks for help, can continue this latest next November...

[Doctor Gollum]

Mot pass is the important bit as it buys time

[polilara]

Sure, but this morning failure was back. Starting after night ok, but second start when hot right side not firing. After couple of turns of the light switch it fired. Have to change the ballast connector but I think that is not the cause.

I am wondering how the frame of Xenon light is earthed inside the lamp because the whole lamp is fixed to car with plastic ears. There is one connector having three wires; one thick brown and two thinner ones. Thinner ones are most propably + of main beam and parking beam and this brown one is the minus for every part inside. How many wires are inside the thick ballast wire which goes to Xenon bulb, just one or two? If just one then the earthing from the Xenon frame inside the lamp could be a problem. High beam and park is ok.

[Doctor Gollum]

This may indicate a fault with the switch itself, especially as everything else seems to be in order 

[polilara]

No, not a switch problem I am afraid. Only one wire from switch and DLR. Split in fuse box as earlier discussed. Left side works perfectly.

[polilara]

Took a closer look at the connector from ballast to Xenon bulb, seems to have both (two) connectors so earthing the whole lamp cannot be the problem. This really starts to be interesting. I have new bulb, new ballast and new fuse. There has to be bad contact somewhere and voltage drops when firing. If it fires it never "flames out". Perhaps firing takes more current.

Does anyone have scrapped fuse box to see how this split to F22 and F31 is physically done if it is done inside fuse box as DG advised. I strongly believe that the problem is there. I still renew the ballast 12V plug as soon as I find new just to get it 100% ok. It's somehow damaged.

[polilara]

Sill wondering where this connecting point(s) locate. Is it made with "Throwing Wire" behind the fuse box?

[Doctor Gollum]

Within the light switch. Specifically pins 7(connects to the rear fog light switch) and 13(headlight level rheostat where fitted).

Also feeds pin 1 on the indicator switch and the DRL relay
.

The wire the fuses are fed from is the WhiteYellow one.

Secondarily, the left hand headlight connects to the headlight levelling ecu (in on Pin19 and out Pin2 rh and Pin4 lh). Any extra resistance at the Level ecu will pull down the voltage at the left headlight. The ground for this is the body ground under the battery.

[polilara]

Perhaps I dis not ask my question in a right way so once again: I am talking about the yellow wire coming from DLR, pin 57 in X1. That goes to points where it is splitted to two, to fuses F22 and F31. Where is that connection point? I assume it cannot be in the switch as from there in its position 2 comes only one  wire, white yellow pin 13 as you say.  Are we talking about same figure. I have only Haynes, tracs 1500-1550, later models.

[Doctor Gollum]

According to the diagram, it IS in the switch.

[polilara]

Thanks DG, this is informative as acc. to Haynes Schema it is "after the switch." Then I remove the switch and and take a look.

Otherwise new 12V ballast connector is in the way to me. I will replace it, then I clean all the earthing points there below... Remember have seen there several brown wires goin to same rusty place, keep you informed. I stronly believe that it is possible to get both front lights to fire every time I want.

[polilara]

So, took away light switch and slided the connector away from dash and opened its back plate. The 2,5 mm2 white yellow coloured wire comes from switch pin 56 and dissappears somewhere behind the dash. Not a single yellow wire comes from switch. Removed the fuse box once again and saw that yellow 1.5mm2 wires come to both F22 and F31 and yellow wires leaves both F22 and F 31 going most propably to Left and Right devices as seen in Haynes. The fuse box is in a terrible place so it is difficult to look behind it but I am quite sure that the 2.5mm2 white yellow wire does not come there. Do you DG have a figure to enclose here where to see this connection point for these rwo yellow wires going to F22 and F31. I might be somewhere behind dash.

[Doctor Gollum]

Within the light switch. Specifically pins 7(connects to the rear fog light switch) and 13(headlight level rheostat where fitted).

Also feeds pin 1 on the indicator switch and the DRL relay
.

The wire the fuses are fed from is the WhiteYellow one.

So, yes, behind the dash somewhere.

[TheBoy]

According to the diagram, it IS in the switch.

The electronic wiring diagrams show it outside the switch.  No reason for it to be in the switch.  Unfortunately, the electronic wiring diagrams do not say where it is, except between the light switch plug and the individual headlight plugs .  So could be in the cabin loom, or in the engine bay loom

[Doctor Gollum]

The yellow and white wire joins two terminals of the switch. The individual headlight wires, yellow, tap into this loop.

[polilara]

Here is the figure from switch plug. Red 4mm2 is Hot coming from battery. White Yellow goes somewhere, joins to the yellow coming from DLR and splits to two yellows somewhere. Below is the switch 56 is for White Yellow.
Beside fuse box is a relay box. Maybe I take it away and see there...DG mentioned about rear fog light.

[polilara]

Nothing interesting behind rely box but: DG advised to remove both kick panels in reply #2. I removed only left side and found X1. I remember that DLR is behind right kick panel. Perhaps there is something. Next week have time for that...

[Doctor Gollum]

Pin 7 on the plug and pin 4 on the switch should also be WhiteYellow

Ergo if you connect pins 7 and 13 on the plug they should be near zero resistance.

And if you connect pins 56 and 4 on the light switch they should also show near zero resistance. (you may need the light switch to be on headlight and the front fog light switch latched).

[Doctor Gollum]

https://youtube.com/shorts/OwtXY1yB7_o?feature=share

[polilara]

Thanks DG for the link. Been away the whole weekend. Have to study it. I report wehen back in this case.