Omega Owners Forum

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

News:

Please play nicely.  No one wants to listen/read a keyboard warriors rants....

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - toller

Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 ... 13
1
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: MID lights staying on
« on: 13 February 2011, 10:31:25 »
Not tried that although this morning when I went to start it the battery was very nearly flat and this is with the fuse for the internal lights removed so i'm guessing something else is also staying on.

I shall try removing the stereo and see what happens.

2
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / MID lights staying on
« on: 12 February 2011, 20:57:10 »
Just started with this problem today in that the lights on the MID are now staying on after the ignition has been turned off.

Once the engine is stopped the display will momentarily show the date and then the name of the radio station will come back on, it stays like this permanently now even after the car is locked.  I've resorted to removing the fuse for the interior lights whenever i leave the car but obviously this is a bit annoying so does anyone know what's causing the problem and even better how can i out it right.


3
Had another fiddle this evening, disconnected the battery and left it half an hour to see if this would have any effect and now whenever the fob is pressed the courtesy light flashes 3 or 4 times,  it will keep doing this until I put the keys in and turn on the ignition and then turn it off again,  after this pressing the fob does nothing.

I wouldn't be too bothered about this in normal circumstances but the lock in the door is quite stiff and can be a bit of a pain to open and close with the key so it makes things much easier having the fob.

4
Checked fuse 20 and it was ok however when i replaced it and tried the remote again the courtesy light started to flash, went through the reprogramming again and this time the courtesy light flashed which as i understood it confirms that the remote has been programmed but it still doesn't lock or unlock the car.

5
Not used my barge in a while due to the MOT running out in early october and me needing to do a few bits to it to get it thorough but having no time to do it.  Anyway, all done now and so should be going for MOT on tuesday.

I had a weird problem yesterday in that the car had been stood for a week without being touched, went to start it and it fired up straight away,  had to replace rear coil springs and have a fiddle with the handbrake.  All in it took about 2 1/2 hours and during that time everything in the car was off and the keys were on a table next to the car,  when I came to restart it the battery was totally dead, put it on charge over night and came back to it today and everything seems fine except I can't get the remote locking to work.  It's the infra red type rather than the RF.  I've tried reprogramming it as per the car handbook but it does absolutely nothing.  The light on the key fob flashes when it is pressed but it has no effect on the car,  It was working fine yesterday when I opened the car before starting work on it so i'm a bit perplexed.

Any ideas?

Sorry for the rambling long post too.

6
Normally i'd say about 50% of the pixels on my MID are dead, keep meaning to get it sorted but never get round to it.

I've had the battery disconnected whilst trying to sort out why my fob will no longer operate the central locking but i've noticed that when i've reconnected the battery there are now only a handfull of dead pixels on the MID. 

Anyone know whats caused it and will it stay like this?  I'd like to think so but somehow i reckon they'll all be dead again before long.

7
Out of interest, how is the co-ax for the aerial routed through the car as i also suspect here could be abreak along it's length somewhere so was considering reaplcing it with some new stuff.

Is it fairly straightforward to get to or will i end up having to remove alsorts of bits of plastic?


8
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: 1996 Omega and radio reception
« on: 26 February 2007, 22:14:15 »
I decided to have a look this evening as there is actually quite a lot of light in the car if all the courtesy lights and map lights are on.  Upon pulling out the unit i was greeted with the biggest mess of bodged up wiring i'd ever seen, all the power and speaker cables had been tangled around the aerial cable which meant the aerial plug was pulled out of the back of the stereo when i tried to put everythig back.

Even managed to blow a fuse at one point as a few of the cables pulled free of their connectors and shorted.

I'll have to put an hour or two aside to sort that this week.

Bloody amateurs!!! :)

9
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: 1996 Omega and radio reception
« on: 26 February 2007, 18:51:47 »
Yes it has the two vertical lines on the back.  I'll pull the radio out tomoorw when it's light and have a good poke around.

Thanks for the help

10
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / 1996 Omega and radio reception
« on: 26 February 2007, 17:32:19 »
The 1996 GSL omega i've just aqquired seems to have terrible radio reception, am i correct in thinking that it uses the rear window element as an antenna?

Not sure if the same setup is used on later model omegas but what are people's general expereinces of this setup, is it generally rubbish or does it work ok for most people.

I ask as my omega has had an aftermarket Blaupunk stero fitted and i can get about 3 radio stations, with only very very very sporadic reception of any local stations.  At the moment i'm not sure if it's because the previous owner hasn't fitted it properly or if it's because the rear window antenna method is a bit pants.

Is it possible to fit a proper aerial to the car anywhere and if so are kits available to be able to do it?

Starting to get a bit sick of only being able to get radio 3 & 4 now :)

11
Omega General Help / Re: MOT Failure - Emissions
« on: 28 November 2010, 11:51:01 »
I've already bought some cataclean so that'll be going in as soon as it comes.  I don't really use the car that much as i prefer motorbikes (even in the winter) and when i do use the car it is only for fairly short journeys.

My previous omega failed on emissions a few years ago and a good thrash up the motorway got it through ok although one of the cats failed about 2 weeks later.

Not checked on the return spring on the handbrake but i'm going to have a look at everything this afternoon.  Still -5 outside too so it should be fun :)

12
Omega General Help / MOT Failure - Emissions
« on: 26 November 2010, 13:02:18 »
Just had the car in for it's MOT and one of the things it's failed on is emissions, specifically the CO content.  On the fast idle it was 0.49% against a limit of 0.3% and on the second fast idle it was 0.36% so was only just over.

Of all the things it can fail on it's the emissions I hate the most as i've no way of checking them myself. 

Anyone got any suggestions as to what I can do to get them down?  I'll be giving it a thrashing up the motorway before i take it in for the retest but anything else that could help would be welcome.

It's also been failed on the parking brake having no reserve travel even though it is fully on within 5 clicks which I'm a bit confused about.

13
Omega General Help / Very annoying front end rattle
« on: 15 November 2010, 19:01:22 »
My omega has had a rattle around the front passenger side wheel for quite a while, I had presumed it was the drop links which I changed a while ago and although it improved things slightly the rattle was still there.  Since then I have also changed the front wishbones and the track rods as the ball joints were a little on the slack side.

When I first changed the track rods it seemed to fix the rattle but after 2 or so days of them being on I was going over some fairly large speed bumps and there was a rather large clunk from the front end and the rattle had come back.

I've had a look sevel times for anything thats loose, i've taken all the replaced parts off and put them back on, i've swung on everything and everything seems to be tight so i'm at a loss as to what else it could be.  About the only thing i've not looked at properly is the anti roll bar "D" bushes although when swinging on the anti roll bar it all feels fairly solid.

Any suggestions on what else to look for what be much appreciated.

14
Omega General Help / Swapping door locks over
« on: 15 December 2009, 13:16:03 »
I posted a few weeks ago how my remote central locking (IR Type) suddenly stopped working,  had a fiddle with it, tried new batteries in the fob checked fuses and had a gander at the wiring for the locking ECU but can't see anything wrong. 

Because of this i'm having to use the key to open the door but it's very very stiff on the drivers side and it is now becoming a 10 minute procedure to open the car as once i put my key in the lock and open it I can then not turn the key back in order to take it out of the lock without a hell of a load of wiggling and relocking and then unlocking again.  I now don't bother locking it any more as the hassle of getting the thing open is just too much of a pain.

The lock in the passenger side door seems to work fine so is it possible to transfer the barrel and other bits into the drivers door and if so how easy / fiddly of a job is it.

15
Omega General Help / Re: Drop link knocking / clunking sound
« on: 13 December 2009, 17:44:14 »
Always worth double double checking.  I've just had a similar thing myself with changing wishbones and droplinks and still having a knocking.  It turned out that i'd not quite fully tightened up one of the bolts on the drop links, couldn't move anything by hand but putting the spanner back on got me about another 3/4 of a turn on the nut and after that the knocking was no more.

Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 ... 13

Page created in 0.04 seconds with 16 queries.