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[Sir Tigger KC]

My spare/runabout car is a 1.4 petrol Fiesta in fetching purple. 

The cambelt schedule is 8 years/100,000 miles and although mine has only done 54,000 miles it's now a couple of years over.     It's sprung a coolant leak from the cambelt area which I'm guessing is either the water pump or thermostat housing. 

Are the water pumps cambelt driven on these?  and how easy is it to change the cambelt. ie DIY-able? 

TIA! 

[zirk]

Not sure about the water pump being cambelt driven, but if there the same lumps (1.4 Zetec they fit to the Focus) I looked into it a few years back for one of my Sons, and the CB change was a fiddly job, Locking kit required, and lots of stuff to remove to get to the belt, for what the local garage wanted for the job, decided it wasn't worth getting my hands dirty.

[Sir Tigger KC]

That's my dilemma Zirk!   

It looks as though the waterpump is cambelt driven and as I'm thinking of selling it, I think it will probably go to the local garage.  The receipt for a new cambelt and water pump will be good to have. 

[Nick W]

Not sure about the water pump being cambelt driven, but if there the same lumps (1.4 Zetec they fit to the Focus) I looked into it a few years back for one of my Sons, and the CB change was a fiddly job, Locking kit required, and lots of stuff to remove to get to the belt, for what the local garage wanted for the job, decided it wasn't worth getting my hands dirty.

It's no worse than any other FWD 4 cylinder. You do know that the locking kit is a bar with a couple of slots in it that can be made at home with a file? That's if you don't want to spend a tenner on buying one.

[Crazycarzowner]

I had wifeys in bits before me back went to put a new driveshaft on the drivers side & fix a thermostat leak whilst there. As her cambelt is due soon I had a look at whats involved. Water pump is driven off the auxiliary belt from what I remember, which is a stretch belt.

The thermostat housing is a complete PITA, to remove it there are only 4 bolts, 3 of them you can get at. 1 is a B4$tard bolt which you can only remove if you

1st take the headlight out,

2nd front grille,

3rd lower cambelt cover

4th Auxillary belt & alternator off.

The B4$tard bolt sits right behind the alternator & is very tight, so tight you can't bloomin well get at it without removal of the above.

If you do all the above you're 1/2 way there to doing the cambelt. Locking kit - few quid off the Bay of Fleas.

In honesty its an easy job, made hard because of tight spaces (or me having shovel sized hands) 

[Webby the Bear]

I believe WP is aux driven on these. What's the reg and I'll autodata it for you. Or pm me it, whatever your preference 

Cam belts on fords generally speaking are the easiest you can do. As long as you have the kit and are aware it's a floating crank, thus lock it off with the pin and lock the cams off with the bar and you can't go wrong. 

[Webby the Bear]

Ps, those stretch aux belts look a fekking nightmare. But use a big screw driver to wedge in between the pulleys and turn the crank and they slot right on. Book method? I doubt it. But it works with no obvious issues. That's how I did mummy bears fusion and it's still going strong  touch wood obviously 

[henryd]

I believe WP is aux driven on these. What's the reg and I'll autodata it for you. Or pm me it, whatever your preference 

Cam belts on fords generally speaking are the easiest you can do. As long as you have the kit and are aware it's a floating crank, thus lock it off with the pin and lock the cams off with the bar and you can't go wrong. 

Yep 

[Sir Tigger KC]

Thanks chaps!    Still undecided whether to 'ave a go or get the local garage to do it! 

I doubt I'll get much change from £250 - 300 though for a cambelt change and sorting the coolant leak, which I think is either the water pump or thermostat housing.