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[chrisr]

Can the timing belt and water pump be changed on a 2.2 petrol without a locking kit?

[Doctor Gollum]

I' m going to say no because that's the only valid answer.

Put another way, whoever fits an Omega belt without should stand by their work by replacing the engine free of charge when it fails.

[Nick W]

Of course it can, as plenty of people do.


But it's much simpler to do than the V6 and the tools for doing it correctly are so cheap, it's hard to understand why you'd even consider doing it without.

[Enceladus]

To lock the GM 1.8/2.0/2.2 16V cams, only one locking key is used. Kent Moore KM-853 or equivalent. The Sealey kits and imitations are plastic in lieu of aluminium alloy and also include KM-852 which is not for your engine.

The tensioner adjustment design on the Gates kits is slightly different to the original GM. This means that the initial set up adjustment is slightly different to the Haynes manual and the TIS. So make sure to follow the Gates instructions. Or use a Contitech kit.

[TheBoy]

Unlike the V6, its doable without. But given the wedge to lock the cams is probably less than a fiver, anybody would be incredibly stupid to contemplate it.

Also, unlike the V6, its either a tooth out, or perfect.

[Andy B]

Of course it can, as plenty of people do.


But it's much simpler to do than the V6 and the tools for doing it correctly are so cheap, it's hard to understand why you'd even consider doing it without.

'Ticker' at a local garage was adamant that he could do a V6 timing belt without a locking kit ..... he used a pair of mole/vice grips on each pair of cam sprockets! 
Fortunately he never did my cam belt! 

[chrisr]

Thanks all - I’ll get the locking kit!

[RallyArde]

Hi, I accidently managed to do cambelt on my daily (Z22XE) without that locking tool, I ordered one but it was wrong sort of and wasnīt made for this engine. The timing on that 4 cylinder engine is quite straight forward, compared for example Fords Zetec SE engines at the same time period, which takes many hours longer to do. Only thing where you can get it wrong is the adjustment of tensioner pulley and water pump positioning, so itīs wise to proceed with instructions from servie manual or TIS, I printed instructions from finnish service called Autodata.





In these pics the markings of camshafts and crankshaft can be seen. Just got those alligned, cambelt off, then install new water pump in the way that old one was installed, add new belt, tensioner and idler pulleys, turn the tensioner counter clockwise until the pointer is on the right edge, tighten tensioner bolt, then two revolutions from the crankshaft, check aliignment(!), loosen the tensioner bolt a little and turn it clockwise until the pointer is towards "NEW", tighten it on correct torque. Again two revolutions from the crank and check that all marks do allign, just in case. There is a little notch/dent on the block where to set tensioner "claw" otherwise it canīt be put wrong position.

V6 is much more painful to get right, especially the final adjustment of those tensioners