Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Weds]

I have an Omega 3.0 lt which has started to stall/cut out on tickover. This is a pain when approaching junctions etc. Checked out and cleaned the ICV. It only appears to do it when the cars been running for some time and warmed up. Other times it runs ok. It will restart ok but is a pain to drive because you need to hold the throttle open to keep the engine running above tickover RPM

I have recently changed the alternator belt which obviously required removing the air intakes, I was suspecting an air leak somewhere but can't find one anywhere.

Could there be a problem with the throttle position sensor ? What sort of faults does that throw up.

Any other ideas ?

[Dazzler]

It still sounds like a ICV problem to me...........Did you check for your air leaks using carb cleaner of something similar

[Weds]

I've had a good look round but can't find any leaks, how do i use carb cleaner to find leaks ?

[Eighth_dwarf]

As said check for air leaks etc, but when mine did this (exactly the same, started fine, ok when cold  - higher tickover -  but when at normal tickover would regularly stall) it was the crank sensor on the way out.

[Weds]

I had a new changed the crank sensor about 25/30k ago, I thought that usually shows itself buy not starting, didn't think it would be the cause of stalling.

[Dave-C]

As said check for air leaks etc, but when mine did this (exactly the same, started fine, ok when cold  - higher tickover -  but when at normal tickover would regularly stall) it was the crank sensor on the way out.

Had similar with a CPS too, no probs since changed..

DC

[sounds2k]

try the paperclip test - expect to find code 31 (crank sensor incorrect signal) ... sounds like the trouble I had on my last miggy ... changed the crank sensor, job done  

it's possible that when the sensor was last changed, the cable was not routed and/or secured properly, so the cable has overheated ...

[Weds]

I'll check the codes but the only ones errors coming up are gearbox fault on the display when the engine stalls before the car stops. Usually clears when the ignition is restarted.

[TheBoy]

try the paperclip test - expect to find code 31 (crank sensor incorrect signal) ... sounds like the trouble I had on my last miggy ... changed the crank sensor, job done  

it's possible that when the sensor was last changed, the cable was not routed and/or secured properly, so the cable has overheated ...

You will always get a 31 (No RPM signal) if engine not running

You may get a 19 (Incorrect RPM signal), in which case replace crank sensor.  A 31 on a non running car is inconclusive.  On a V6, you can do paperclip test with engine running, and you should NOT then get a 31...

[Weds]

it's possible that when the sensor was last changed, the cable was not routed and/or secured properly, so the cable has overheated ...

It was done by a Vauxhall dealer, I only got them to do it because I thought they would re run it correctly behind the oil pipes,  just shows how mistaken you can be. it was tie wrapped to the outside of the oil pipes right next to the exhaust. I'll do it myself next time. Which looks like it could be very soon..

[star_whites]

Ive been having the same issue with my 1998 2.0 cd auto. The car runs fine when cold but when it gets hot it starts to stall when slowing for junctions, islands and tight corners which means the steering is a bitch to get around the bend without running head on into something lol

I wondered with mine if it was just the timing, but when I think about it, it only started doing this after the service. Ive since changed the fuel filter, added fuel cleaner and replaced the leads. However I have noticed that she is ticking over at 500rpm, is this normal or too low??

[ians]

500rpm is quite low IMHO.

I suggest you locate the guide in the maintenance section regarding cleaning breathers on a 2.2.   The 2.0 is very similar.
Be fastidious about cleaning the throttle body, ICV and the small bore breather hose and port onto the throttle in particular.

Even if this doesn't solve the problem it is well worth doing and costs nowt..