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[Lew]

Hi I am new here.
My omega decided not to start the other morning..
I have owned the car for about 7 months and had no issues until now.
Car is 2.2 auto petrol full service history and only 62k miles.
Garage have fitted new cam belt kit crank sensor and cam sensor but car still will not start.
I have had the RAC to check it over and they said ecu is only sending 2.6 volts to crank sensor and therefore no spark is being produced.
I have been through the wiring and earth bonding and found no obvious faults 😔.
Can anyone suggest next course of action please ??

[Alnico Blue]

Seems a bit scarey if your garage have just been replacing parts to try and get it to run, without a code diagnosis first .

But  . . .Just a suggestion . .  have you had the key apart to fit a new battery in the fob just prior to the car not starting ?

There is a tiny " immobiliser chip" that easily falls out of the key fob if you dont know it is there

Without this in place  the car wont start .

Try a second key if you have one , as unlikely you will ever find the lost chip if it HAS been dropped 

ECU failure is not unheard of on omegas due to age now  . . but other more knowledgeable OOF members will advise you further. .

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Check the cam sensor. If it needs replacing use genuine part only.

[Doctor Gollum]

Should still start if either sensor fails

That said if both sensors have been replaced with anything other than genuine sensors supplied by a genuine Vauxhall dealer that you genuinely have to walk in to then all bets are off.

[Enceladus]

You definitely need to read the fault codes. Even if just by using 'the pedal trick' detailed in the maintenance guides.
And please clarify the order of events.

AIUI the car wouldn't start for some unknown reason. You gave it to a garage or a mechanic who:
replaced the timing belt kit;
replaced the crank sensor;
replaced the camshaft sensor:
The car still won't start?. Is that correct?
Did it ever start after all that work?
You called the RAC who say the ECU is at fault? Incorrect voltage to crank sensor.

Does the spanner light come on when the ignition is on?

The ECU is probably the most reliable part of the car and will normally outlive it. Usually ECU faults boil down to "I haven't a clue", "I don't really know what I'm doing", "I can't be arsed", "I'm just a tow-truck driver and "I'm not being paid to fix your old car" or faulty wiring somewhere in the loom or, most likely, a sensor has failed.

I think that the car might start even if the new crank sensor is faulty or incorrect but you might need to continuously crank the engine until a time-out expires. 30 or 60 secs comes to mind. So the ECU will look for a valid crank signal and if it doesn't get one within the specified period it will try and calculate a default. And set the spanner light on and store a fault code.

The cam sensor is more likely to fail than the crank. The engine should still start but won't run optimally. Trouble is there are different sensors and the sensor has to match the ECU variant in the car. People try to fit the cheapest or most easily available into the car and it may not be correct.

Did anybody ever check if there is fuel getting to the injectors?

I'd start by reading the fault codes and reporting back.

[Lew]

Car has not started after all work complete

Spanner light is now on and will not go out...

Genuine parts have been fitted so I am now at a loss 😔😔

[ronnyd]

As others will say, the Omega is quite a complicated car and many garages don't really know how to fix them. Also they are quite elderly, the cars, not the mechanics  , and many mechanics have hardly seen them. See if you can find an indy garage with the relevant knowledge of these cars. Best of luck with it.

[STEMO]

As others will say, the Omega is quite a complicated car and many garages don't really know how to fix them. Also they are quite elderly, the cars, not the mechanics  , and many mechanics have hardly seen them. See if you can find an indy garage with the relevant knowledge of these cars. Best of luck with it.

2.2 is basic enough.

[Doctor Gollum]

Car has not started after all work complete

Spanner light is now on and will not go out...

Genuine parts have been fitted so I am now at a loss 😔😔

Ok, that potentially points to another issue.

Back to basics...

1. Fuel.
2. Spark.

Did it previously, and does it now crank? And does it sound the same whilst cranking?

[Lew]

Thanks for your help everyone!!!
I forgot to mention that I have had a new coil pack fitted as well

Does the fact the immobiliser light is on and won’t go out mean that I have to get the immobiliser to deactivate?

I do have fuel as this squirts out when I open the fuel line but I have no live feed across fuse 18 so I am thinking immobiliser??? Or am getting Omega madness!!

[Doctor Gollum]

To answer your points in order:
1. Is the coil pack wiring plug securely plugged in? If you removed the plugs, were they refitted? (it is a silly question, but it will never run with the plugs out... And a garage changing the belt probably wouldn't even check. The RAC bloke certainly wouldn't).

2. It would be unlikely for the immobiliser to fail unless the chip has been removed/fallen out of the key.

The key has three parts to it... Blade, chip, remote.

Do you have a spare key? If so does it work ie start the car?

If you have the Car Pass card, then you can get replacement chips programmed to the car. This needs both the car and new chip to be in the same place as a Tech 2.

3. Fuel.

When the ignition is turned to position 2, the fuel pump should run for a few seconds.

When you crank it, the ecu turns off the pump relay until it sees the increase in rpm as it fires. If you can't hear the pump then the chances are that it is dead.

If the fuse (18) is ok and it has at LEAST a third of a tank and is parked on the level, then try giving the tank a slap as someone cranks it. If it fires, then the pump is on its last legs. If it doesn't, then replace the two purple relays in the engine fuse box. One is the injectors, tother is the fuel pump. If either has failed (not unheard of) then it will never run (either no pump pressure/fuel delivery or no injectors... Net result is the same).

[Nick W]

Thanks for your help everyone!!!
I forgot to mention that I have had a new coil pack fitted as well

Does the fact the immobiliser light is on and won’t go out mean that I have to get the immobiliser to deactivate?

That's not really a question, is it?

[Alnico Blue]

I advised about the key chip / immobiliser in reply #1 on this thread  . . but OP has not responded on that issue.

I recall that Toledodude (Paul ) had an issue with the immobiliser light being on and it was a ECU failure but that was 2.6 V6

Question for knowledgeable Oofers . . As for the dash lights (inc. engine management ) . . wont they be lit until the car actually starts and runs ? 

[Alnico Blue]

Car has not started after all work complete

Spanner light is now on and will not go out...

Genuine parts have been fitted so I am now at a loss 😔😔

BUT . . as i see it . .   still no mention/ reply  from you of having read the codes ??

[dave the builder]

Most Vauxhalls the spanner light flashes on and off if it's not reading the transponder chip or there is an immobiliser fault .
I assume by " immobiliser light" we mean spanner light