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Messages - Derek_in_Penzance

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61
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OMG, I've just looked through all two million pages of the PDF engine rebuild guide on this site and it looks pretty daunting. Think I need to stick to the straight sixes!

As my gearbox is almost duff I'm planning to take the whole engine and gearbox out so that I can work on it in comfort in the workshop, and not have to lean over the engine bay all the time.
Anyway, you never know, maybe the head(s) don't need to come off, but I know that is probably just wishful thinking.


You could always do as Graham C/Omegatoy did .... and put a straight 6 in!!! A C30SE would suffice ... you don't need a 3.6 Lotus.  ;) ;) ;) :y

Yes, it's something I've thought of already, especially as I have a workshop with oh, about six C30SE engines lying around -all with head gaskets gone!

62
OMG, I've just looked through all two million pages of the PDF engine rebuild guide on this site and it looks pretty daunting. Think I need to stick to the straight sixes!

As my gearbox is almost duff I'm planning to take the whole engine and gearbox out so that I can work on it in comfort in the workshop, and not have to lean over the engine bay all the time.
Anyway, you never know, maybe the head(s) don't need to come off, but I know that is probably just wishful thinking.


63
Thank you to all who have contributed and I'm sorry I haven't kept tabs on this thread today -been busy under a car! (not mine though).

When I start this job I will update you all as it progresses, and I will post photographs. The engine definitely seemed to have a struggle turning over when I had the compression tester in either of the two affected cylinders, compared to the other four, when it just whizzed around in the usual way. I found it really odd. I'm a newbie to V6s so this is very much a learning curve, although I know the CIH straight sixes inside out. I've never experienced anything quite like it!

64
this is what I posted oon 7th September!

  Re: Lambda sensor low voltage -car broken down -help!
Reply #11 - 07. Sep 2008 at 19:40    Bugger. I'm sure the leads were causing problems but that just masked the real one.

Compression readings (with Snap-on gauge):

1) 210 psi
2) 180
3) 210
4) 65
5) 215
6) 75

Cranks over quickly on the good readings, slow on the bad, with a squishing sound. Chemical test for head gasket/combustion gasses in coolant is negative. So I conclude that L/H head gasket is leaking between cylinders 4 and 6. That is really annoying, because the head gasket on that side was supposed to have been replaced only 30,000 miles ago. Obviously not very well.

The saga continues. I'm fed up with working on this car.

On reflection, maybe I'll just buy another Omega and hope my luck turns better.

<Browses eBay>.  

65
Omega General Help / A question about "V6 head gasket gone or not"
« on: 20 October 2008, 20:43:29 »
I nearly posted this on that thread but then thought better of it.

The cylinder head photo on that thread prompts me to ask how common is it for one of the head gaskets to blow a leak between two cylinders, ie at the narrowest point between the bores?

I think my 3.0 Omega estate is suffering from this, as I have low compressions on two adjacent cylinders, but no sign of excessive coolant pressurisation or oil in water/water in oil. It runs very rough -like a bag of nails in fact.

This follows up my thread on this problem some weeks ago -I've been too busy to take the engine apart, although I must do so soon so that I can fix the problem and get my LPG estate back on the road.

66
Omega General Help / Re: air con pump
« on: 06 July 2008, 21:15:56 »
If the compressor is on the workbench then yes, the clutch can be turned easily by hand, and you should be able to detect sucking from one of the outlets. I'm not sure about on the car, I'm sure it can be turned by hand, but there will be more resistance because of the refrigerant and oil in the system. If yours has seized solid there is something wrong.

Note that it is the very front disc piece that turns the pump, not the pulley, which will turn very freely without a belt on it.

67
[moved] [link=http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1223247974/0]General Chat[/link] [move by] hotel21.

68
Omega General Help / Re: Where do omega`s rust
« on: 04 October 2008, 13:11:07 »
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Do Omegas rust out in the engine bay, and in particular the tops of the front chassis legs?

This is dreadful problem on Carltons and Senator Bs, and because the 6-cyl engines take up so much space it is very, very difficult to repair properly. You just can't get to the chassis leg top panel. Look at any of these cars and I'll bet that it has gobs of weld somewhere in the area!

So, do Omegas suffer the same way? I hope not, but this is one reason why I have decided to remove the engine and gearbox from my '98 3.0 Elite estate when I do the blown head gasket/auto gearbox replace  job. I can then weld any dodgy engine bay rust at the same time. If it is still solid (and I pray that it is) I can wax treat it easier.

not seen any rotten engine bays on omegas yet matey  :y

That's relief then!

69
Omega General Help / Re: Where do omega`s rust
« on: 04 October 2008, 12:54:56 »
Do Omegas rust out in the engine bay, and in particular the tops of the front chassis legs?

This is dreadful problem on Carltons and Senator Bs, and because the 6-cyl engines take up so much space it is very, very difficult to repair properly. You just can't get to the chassis leg top panel. Look at any of these cars and I'll bet that it has gobs of weld somewhere in the area!

So, do Omegas suffer the same way? I hope not, but this is one reason why I have decided to remove the engine and gearbox from my '98 3.0 Elite estate when I do the blown head gasket/auto gearbox replace  job. I can then weld any dodgy engine bay rust at the same time. If it is still solid (and I pray that it is) I can wax treat it easier.

70
Omega General Help / Re: Where do omega`s rust
« on: 03 October 2008, 22:42:57 »
I think that a contributory factor to the door tops rusting is moisture trapped under the window scraper seal where it lies over the tops of the outer skin. Wherever water lies permanently on paint, it will find its way through, hence the importance of wax polishing the paintwork regularly. The wax doesn't just form a protective film over the paint, it also causes water to run off rather than cling.

The same problem afflicts Senators and Carltons where the front and rear windscreen rubber seal impinges on the outer panel skin.

I know nothing about rust on Omegas, but I've spent 15 years trying to stop it on Monzas, Senators and Carltons. Wherever two or more panels are joined by sealant, eg rear wheelarch, that is where rust will start. Where dirt and muck collects, in scuttles, tailgate shuts, bonnet shuts, etc, that is where rust will start. Where panels are joined by spotwelds with no sealant in between, that is where rust will start (eg rear chassis leg join). Stonechips and rubber seals trapping water over panels, that is where rust will start and spread under the paint.

The only answer is to flood the chassis sections, doors, sills etc with thin anti-rust wax which will seep in between the cracks and crevices. Waxoy is the most well known but I don't use it as it does not spray well. I prefer Dinitrol or trade waxes available from paint factors. It must be done in summer when the bodyshell is bone dry. It must be repeated in the most vulnerable areas every year preferably.

For the underside, it's rather uncoventional but we apply several coats of thin wax sprayed underneath and inside all the hollow sections, then when it has dried, two coats of black underseal.  

It's a messy business which takes time to do properly and means stripping out door panels and so on to gain access. That's why many people don't bother. Accident repaired cars often have their new panels rotting out faster than the originals -nobody can be bothered to wax protect the inside and all new panels got from Opel (to end of '94 at least) was a thin coat of primer when new. Also, a sill full of wax, if it does start to rot, is a sure fire way to set fire to the car when the welding torch is applied.

I really hope I'll find that that Omegas are bucking the Opel/Vauxhall rust reputation of years past. Certainly my '98 Elite estate looks fairly solid, apart from the doors....

71
Omega General Help / Re: Online listing of spec's 4 Omega Models
« on: 03 October 2008, 11:00:28 »
Parjkers online guide is good. Millions of specs for every conceivable model.

72
Omega General Help / Re: Lambda (possibly wiring) problem?
« on: 08 September 2008, 15:33:07 »
The red/blue wires from the o2 sensors go into the main wiring harness and join up together just before the mauve fuel pump relay K44, which is the outermost of the two identical mauve relays at the back of the fuse/ECU/relay box on the inner wing. The single wire goes to terminal 87 on the relay.

There is another, single red/blue wire that goes from terminal 85 to terminal 37 on the injection ECU.

There is more...but it's difficult to describe, so best look at the wiring diagram in the Haynes manual, page 12.28, the o2 sensors are P32 and P36.

But I'm assuming that you know all this anyway! If not, I hope this is some partial help.

73
Omega General Help / Re: Lambda (possibly wiring) problem?
« on: 07 September 2008, 20:17:30 »
To check that it is the wire causing the problem, you could try bypassing the blue/red wire from the fuel pump relay down to lambda 1. Just run a wire from the relay down to the plug by the gearbox, ensuring that you stick the wire in the correct socket. However if the original wire is indeed earthing out you'd have to snip it somewhere (making sure you snip the right wire and not one of the other two blue/red wires that branch out from the fuel pump relay.)

Not sure if this a good idea but having just been looking at my own lambda wiring it is still fresh in my mind.

74
Hi, yes, I did it twice to make sure (screwing it in). Anyway, the way it runs tends to confirm it -regular lumpiness and clinking sounds from engine as if two pistons & con rods are being carried around against their will. Car starts reliably enough and manages to drive up and down the road, but 4 & 6 don't seem to be doing anything -they're just along for the ride.

But I'm no expert on these V6 engines. I am very much a learner, although I know every nut and bolt on the 12v & 24v straight six Senator & Monza engines. So if anybody can tell me my solution is simple, please do so, because I am losing the will to live. I can't face taking the head off, as I have so much paying work to do on customers' cars and my Omega really has to be be done in my (nonexistent) spare time.

75
Bugger. I'm sure the leads were causing problems but that just masked the real one.

Compression readings (with Snap-on gauge):

1) 210 psi
2) 180
3) 210
4) 65
5) 215
6) 75

Cranks over quickly on the good readings, slow on the bad, with a squishing sound. Chemical test for head gasket/combustion gasses in coolant is negative. So I conclude that L/H head gasket is leaking between cylinders 4 and 6. That is really annoying, because the head gasket on that side was supposed to have been replaced only 30,000 miles ago. Obviously not very well.

The saga continues. I'm fed up with working on this car.

On reflection, maybe I'll just buy another Omega and hope my luck turns better.

<Browses eBay>.

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