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I don't suppose you thought to ask Vauxhall...Whats wrong with the VX Grey stuff?, its certainly cheaper than the Loctite Sealents and I believe you get more of it.
couldn't find any, I believe the number is 93160951.
do you know anywhere has it?
G
Also it is plugged into the correct loom?
The purge valve has the same plug but runs a 12v reference not 5v.
Presuming that you mean the ecu temp sensor on the coolant bridge rather than the thermos witches on the radiator.
graphite powder is the reccommended lube for the actual barrel part but not sure if it would find its waythrough to the locking mechanism as its right at the far end so to speak.
i must admit thou that until i heard of graphite lube ive used wd or 3in1 on locks and barells for years and years and never had issues.i think they say it can attract dirt ?
if you want the steering lock to be fully operative it MIGHT mean pulling the barrel out and getting at it properly but no harm in trying lube first.
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Whats wrong with the VX Grey stuff?, its certainly cheaper than the Loctite Sealents and I believe you get more of it.
I read on here somewhere. Loctite SI 5660, is equivalent to Vauxhall grey sealant.
left the car for 2 weeks not started for 2 weeks new battery new starter new everything cant open the car now tried openning manually it wont tried wd40 no good so how??
Is one-touch still working from within the car? If not, reset all windows in the usual way.
If it is, its liable that your keyfob battery or buttons aren't sustaining a good connection for the 3s for the process to start.
Do they open if you hold the unlock for 3s?
Last thing to try, using the mechanical key in the drivers door lock, if you hold it in the locked position for 3s, do they start to close then?
As for changing the belt itself, it seemed no matter what I did, if I got the 3-4 cams bang on and rotated the crank through 720°, it then threw the 1-2 cams out. Line 1-2 up and it then threw 3-4 out. I played cat & mouse with the damn things all afternoon going back & forth, but just couldn't get them happy. It was only a smidge advanced, but in the real world a smidge is actually a couple of degrees and I just couldn't get it to go back. The belt was straight, but I'd obviously missed something.
So I left it till the next morning, stripped the belt off and went back to square one. Nick and LC's clear instructions heeded, and it only took a couple of tweaks of the rollers to have everything lined up.
I have several of each of these lambda sensors, some boxed GM and some Bosch.
- 9195606 (Opel 855362), Bosch 0258006176 but also 0258006020 - 632mm in length with ident tag AH
I have three GM boxed of these - two have the 1st Bosch no. on the box, the third has the 2nd Bosch no on the box.
- 9199469 (Opel 855385), Bosch 0258006346 - 750mm in length with ident tag BG.
9195606 is the easier to find sensor, but 9199469's are available under the Bosch part no if you dig around. Be mindful that many sites list the 9199469 using the AH generic photo, so I would ask the seller to confirm the tag ident code and the Bosch no. on the body before buying.
Personally, I would check what is on your car at present, and make your choice using the Bosch no. etched into the body and the identifying tag, checking the cable length.
OK, thanks yes, what I need is sensor 1, I am afraid that it is sensor 2 if "rear" means that. Then 9195606 would be the one I need?
http://oemcats.com/oem-parts/9199469.html this is according to link for "rear exhaust pipe"
