Omega Owners Forum

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

News:

Please check the Forum Guidelines at the top of the Newbie section

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - grifter

Pages: 1 ... 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 [15] 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 ... 63
211
Omega General Help / Re: 3.2 Running lumpy.
« on: 18 April 2022, 10:13:57 »
Ok chaps, I will start with the Coils and Plugs. Never done these on a 3.2 ( only a 96 2.5 CD), is it quite straightforward  ?, but I expect it to be a bit fiddly.

Good guide for it all here:

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90545.0

Plus something to watch when removing coil packs:

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90670.0

Another tip, for the injector rail electric plugs I use parrot grips to push the springs in to pull the connectors off, as they are painful to try and remove with your own fingertips.

P.S remember to remove plenum chamber thingy connecter at top right of plenum, as I pulled my plenum back with it still connected and broke it.

212
Omega Gallery / Re: Just Bought an Elite
« on: 10 April 2022, 15:26:02 »
That's the NSF wheen bearing done, very easy job, except of course tightening to 320NM? My torque bar only goes to 200, so I waited until my elbow clicked and took that as the correct torque!

While that was off I took of the little dust shield and gave it scrape to get the flakes of rust off of it, and to satisfy myself the little torx would loosen tip, give the torx head a medium bash with the head of a hammer then hammer the torx socket in it, first action flattens the head in a bit so the socket fits snug, also loosens the rust and breaks any seized up bolts. No point doing it up or painting it as it's porous on some of the edges so will need new ones eventually.

Next job was remove the OS track arm. I didn't even try to loosen the old one's adjusters as they are always mega seized, just replaced the whole thing as the outside track rod had play, and the back one felt a bit loose too. Few strikes of a 1 pound mallet got the outside one to pop but the inner one was a complete bar steward, so I got out the ball joint splitter and let that take the strain.

Done the measure up thingy with the old arm then put the new one on (After slabbering the new threads with copper slip) and torque'd up to 74 Lb Ft on outside joint, I'd seen another suggestion, from Haynes that the inner one is 25 Lb Ft but that's way too loose for my liking, so done it to about 50 Lb Ft.

Still got the NS track arm to replace, plus remove both wishbones and replace the longitudinal bushes with polys, and the other ones with new GM bushes, then get tracking done. Probably should go for new ball joints this time, never done on my CD so probably worthwhile since I'm in there with everything off (the car, not me!)

213
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Wrong drivers door mirror
« on: 22 March 2022, 21:06:41 »
Magnetic tipped screwdriver  ;)

All my old screwdrivers tips have lost any magnetism they had... just reverted to the ole grease it up technique  :y

214
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Wrong drivers door mirror
« on: 22 March 2022, 18:36:36 »
That screw that goes in the door handle - pure mare!  :D

215
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Wrong drivers door mirror
« on: 22 March 2022, 18:02:40 »
Got 9 on this one, panic over went to maintenance guides and changed the mirror over - job jobbed!

216
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Wrong drivers door mirror
« on: 22 March 2022, 17:50:23 »
Just recently bought a silver door mirror to replace the one on my elite 02 plate. The mirror casing was ok, it was the mirror itself was shot, and I thought easier just to swap with one with the proper blind spot bend in it.

Took mirror off and noticed the spare one only had five terminals in the little plug, the original has looks like all of them in use - nine of them. The replacement mirror has a little icon showing it is heated so I thought maybe that was what was missing originally.

The part number on the back of both mirror alloy mounts is: 08155463

I can't seem to find that number on the vx part catalogs

Anyone know what the difference is with the wiring since part numbers look the same?

Just wondering if the wiring was changed at some point and maybe they'd redesigned it, but it's got all the same functions.

Thanks

G



217
Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / Re: A/C Filler Valve
« on: 15 March 2022, 18:21:34 »
That's LP,, so get a tyre core, the short type and use that., The one near rads is HP.

Got a removal tool for the tyre shrader valves so will remove the duff valve and replace cheers

218
Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / Re: A/C Filler Valve
« on: 14 March 2022, 19:10:23 »
The one next to the oil filler cap. Is that LP since it looks like a fatter line than the one down in front?

219
Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / A/C Filler Valve
« on: 14 March 2022, 06:58:11 »
I'm going to ovehaul the A/C on my 3.2 and noticed on a simple gas up that the fill valve is leaking (Spit works wonders!) so decided to get a replacement. From looking in here I am sure the part number is 13277003 but they're all in US/AUS. Any known suppliers of these in UK or anyone on here got a spare one for sale?

Thanks

G

220
General Discussion Area / Re: Whats Your Current Fuel Price?
« on: 06 March 2022, 14:13:38 »
Last time I checked was 1.47 for Unleaded and about 1.63 for super, that was almost a week ago though, based near Glasgow.

221
Omega General Help / Re: Fuel pump gaskets
« on: 03 March 2022, 07:42:40 »
Can anyone tell me please, if the gasket under the plate for the fuel pump and the one on the locking piece, can be reused? The wifes Estate Omega smells of petrol. When switched off. She hasn't overfilled it, as I asked. Fuel cap is ok and the seals inside the filler area look OK. I have looked under the inspection plate. The top of the fuel pump plate, with the two outlets is dry. So was going to check underneath the plate, incase the pipes have rotted. (I hope not, only found one replacement, so far and it is stupid money.)

If the pipes are OK is there anywhere else I can look? The smell is definately from the back of the car.

Thanks in advance for any help.
Addy

Found that fuel pump plate on mine - the pipes were corroded, causing fuel smell, although I never seen any, might have been when under pressure it was sweating as there was a stain down tank when you looked underneath (Nothing worse than stains down underneath  :y). See you've checked your pump cover though.

222
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Radio comes on really loud
« on: 01 March 2022, 07:38:39 »
OK, the CD won't have Bose (unless you've retro fitted it).


Given the age of these radios now, the EEPROMS seem to be failing a little.  Sometimes refreshing them helps, sometimes that can end in tears.

I'd be inclined to try to live with it TBH.

I can live with it if it's just one of those things better left alone.

Cheers

G

223
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Radio comes on really loud
« on: 28 February 2022, 18:30:37 »
CDR2005 is not Bose-able.  Is this in your Elite, or CD ?

Fitting a non Bose HU to a car with a Bose amp will make the volume loud, and each click of the volume makes a large difference in volume.

It's the CD. It's only when I reconnect the battery then press the unlock button to reset the central locking it comes on really loud.

224
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Radio comes on really loud
« on: 28 February 2022, 12:00:19 »
Is it a non Bose radio in a Bose equipped car?

It's the CDR 2005 model, note sure if bose or not.

225
Omega General Help / Re: HBV
« on: 28 February 2022, 09:28:57 »
It can be hard to see it sometimes without stripping out the scuttle, do you have that out?

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90574.0


Pages: 1 ... 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 [15] 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 ... 63

Page created in 0.03 seconds with 16 queries.