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[geoffr70]

Hi peeps, I'm planning on changing a front wheel bearing and hub. Will I need new ABS sensors? From memory I don't think so but it's been a while since I had my head in the wheel arch, thankfully. Also, once the nut is undone, how easily will the hub and bearing come off? And will buypartsby supply a decent part?

Thanks peeps!

[Shackeng]

I didn't when I did mine recently.

[05omegav6]

Wheel off, remove bearing cap, wheel on, slacken hub nut with a 1/2" drive breaker bar combined with a six foot scaffold pole.

Then wheel off, caliper off, disc off. Hub nut off. Hub should then pull off, but might leave the rear outer bearing shell on the stub axle. A bit off heat or careful use of a grinder should see it off readily enough.

Refitting is reverse, but you need a torque wrench capable of 400nm to tighten the new nut also obtain a new dust cap before you start, as it's really easy to muller it on removal

[chrisgixer]

Fag oe replacememt, from all German. £50 last I looked. Comes with cap.


Bpb do cheaper. Conti direct aftermarket part £35 odd, but they are shit. More play (than the Oe bearing at 80k) after less than 6 months use. And they don't give you the cap.

Bearing should just pull off. Dosnt involve abs sensors.

[geoffr70]

Ok thanks peeps, very good info there, just what I wanted to hear! Think I'll go the AGP route as I don't like doing the same job twice! 

[chrisgixer]

Bearing nut is 320nm btw.

[05omegav6]

Bearing nut is 320nm btw.

Still bft though

[chrisgixer]

...and just within range of the Halfords 300nm torque wrench you found.

[05omegav6]

...and just within range of the Halfords 300nm torque wrench you found.

Which is handy

[terry paget]

I have changed two. I bought used hubs from Steve Brown, which came complete with bearings and ABS sensors, cost £20 each.

[chrisgixer]

Hub .... Has bearings in.

Stub axle....has sensors in.


Confused as to why abs sensors are relevant to changing a wheel bearing?

Unless you mean the stator ring thing on the back with teeth FOR the abs sensor to see. The ring is fixed to the bearing/hub.

[terry paget]

Lots on e-bay.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OMEGA-O-S-5-STUD-HUB-BEARING-CARRIER-ABS-SENSOR-94-03-/110609254217?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19c0d34749

[chrisgixer]

Lots on e-bay.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OMEGA-O-S-5-STUD-HUB-BEARING-CARRIER-ABS-SENSOR-94-03-/110609254217?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19c0d34749

Why undo the camber bolts and destroy the geometry, in order to change a wheel bearing?

(If indeed the problem is just a wheel bearing fault of course)

[geoffr70]

Hmm AGP website isn't playing atm. Are there any other suppliers of quality after market parts at a fair price?

[05omegav6]

Try ATP in Germany

[terry paget]

Lots on e-bay.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OMEGA-O-S-5-STUD-HUB-BEARING-CARRIER-ABS-SENSOR-94-03-/110609254217?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19c0d34749

Why undo the camber bolts and destroy the geometry, in order to change a wheel bearing?

(If indeed the problem is just a wheel bearing fault of course)

Camber can be maintained by the socket method decribed in the maintenance guide. Changing the assembly avoids the need for 400nM torque wrench and scaffolding poles, is cheaper, easier and quicker. I wish there were a similar way of changing rear wheel bearings.

[chrisgixer]

Lots on e-bay.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OMEGA-O-S-5-STUD-HUB-BEARING-CARRIER-ABS-SENSOR-94-03-/110609254217?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19c0d34749

Why undo the camber bolts and destroy the geometry, in order to change a wheel bearing?

(If indeed the problem is just a wheel bearing fault of course)

Camber can be maintained by the socket method decribed in the maintenance guide. Changing the assembly avoids the need for 400nM torque wrench and scaffolding poles, is cheaper, easier and quicker. I wish there were a similar way of changing rear wheel bearings.

I know about the socket method Terry, from conception to penning the guide

Just undo the wheel bearing nut and swap the bearing over. Do not touch the camber bolts to change a wheel bearing.

Jeez. Has everyone gone mental on here lately?

[05omegav6]

Quite possibly

Also run risk of killing the balljoints during removal of the steering knuckle... And that's before we even mention the short sightedness of fitting secondhand bearing assemblies even a cheapy bearing that lasts five minutes is more cost effective, (and easier to fit), than the potential damage that can be caused by disturbing the knuckle

[TheBoy]

Lots on e-bay.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OMEGA-O-S-5-STUD-HUB-BEARING-CARRIER-ABS-SENSOR-94-03-/110609254217?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19c0d34749

Why undo the camber bolts and destroy the geometry, in order to change a wheel bearing?

(If indeed the problem is just a wheel bearing fault of course)

Camber can be maintained by the socket method decribed in the maintenance guide. Changing the assembly avoids the need for 400nM torque wrench and scaffolding poles, is cheaper, easier and quicker. I wish there were a similar way of changing rear wheel bearings.

By chrisgixer's (the guide author) own admission, its a method to get it "near enough" to allow you to drive it to a geometry centre to have it done properly.

Members can use whichever method to change a bearing that suits them, hopefully without backlash from members here  . That situation is becoming intolerable 

Personally, I think I'd just change the bearing, although I have twice changed the entire hubs for a variety of reasons (one being that Contiech wheel bearings are utter shite)

[chrisgixer]

Lots on e-bay.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OMEGA-O-S-5-STUD-HUB-BEARING-CARRIER-ABS-SENSOR-94-03-/110609254217?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19c0d34749

Why undo the camber bolts and destroy the geometry, in order to change a wheel bearing?

(If indeed the problem is just a wheel bearing fault of course)

Camber can be maintained by the socket method decribed in the maintenance guide. Changing the assembly avoids the need for 400nM torque wrench and scaffolding poles, is cheaper, easier and quicker. I wish there were a similar way of changing rear wheel bearings.

By chrisgixer's (the guide author) own admission, its a method to get it "near enough" to allow you to drive it to a geometry centre to have it done properly.

Members can use whichever method to change a bearing that suits them, hopefully without backlash from members here  . That situation is becoming intolerable 

Personally, I think I'd just change the bearing, although I have twice changed the entire hubs for a variety of reasons (one being that Contiech wheel bearings are utter shite)

....and therefor completely unnecessary.

Of course members can do as they please, clearly. But personally I refuse to stand by and watch bad advise being handed out that will cost the op money. 

THAT is the intolerable aspect.

There may well be a perfectly reasonable reason to change the stub axle as well, but in the absence of a reply as to why the stub axle needs changing, the assumption here is that's it to replace the wheel bearing. If that assumption is true, the op will invite set up costs and considerably more labour for what is a simple half hour job. Or quite possibly suprise tyre wear if not set up.

Re wheel bearing play....It really is just a nut and some leverage, along with wheel, caliper and disc removal. Nothing more.

[TheBoy]

As said, there are perfectly valid reasons to change the hub assembly. Suggesting it doesn't necessarily constitute bad advice, as there may be perfectly valid reasons for doing so.


I'd like to see a return to the old OOF where any question could be met with a response that was welcoming and friendly, and if contradictory, explaining the pros and cons. If I'm suffering severe CBA moments when toying with what forum I should visit on a given evening, and I'm probably as tick skinned as they come, how many members are we losing due to not being able to stomach the unfriendliness/aggression on here?