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16

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Poor LW and MW Reception

« on: 11 June 2007, 23:39:47 »

I know what you mean by the coil pack, I took it off on the wife's Astra on the weekend to change the plugs. So the ignition leads attach to the coil pack? I suppose it's worth taking the thing apart and having a poke round. Anything that I should know? Do I need to disconnect the battery? Is there anything that could go wrong?

well I'd expect it's of the same design as those on my 3.2 ... which means it's a sealed unit - low voltage input via plug from ECU on the end, coils are sealed inside and are wired to the spark plug contacts. Unlike the earlier 2.0, 2.5 and 3.0 petrol engines which have the DIS pack (coils) seperate from the spark plugs and therefore DO use HT leads to connect the two ...

17

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Poor LW and MW Reception

« on: 11 June 2007, 21:08:50 »

well assuming your profile info is correct, a 2.2 petrol doesn't have HT leads. It has a coil pack which is fixed onto the top of the spark plugs and connects to a low voltage connection from the ECU ...

18

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: speed senser wire rear of radio

« on: 10 June 2007, 14:53:10 »

... was it the blue/red wire connected to pin 5 (labelled "SCV") then?

19

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: bose system

« on: 24 May 2007, 22:39:34 »

If you do rip it out, give me first refusal on the headunit, loom, amp, rear shelf speakers

you could swap the looms which would give Chris the non-bose one he'd need  

20

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: bose system

« on: 24 May 2007, 16:45:47 »

hmmm ... well it's not quite as simple as that!

bose system uses line level outputs from the head unit, that connects via the wiring loom to the amplifier (under the parcel shelf on saloon - or offside boot compartment on estate) which then amplifies the inputs and feeds the sub(s) and then the speakers via the wiring loom back to the door speakers.

So realistically speaking you either need to make up an adaptor cable that will connect to the line output (NOT speaker output) on the replacement head unit to connect to the existing bose amp (and hope that the line level output isn't high enough to cause the overload protection to cut in) or rip out the whole lot ...

On my first omega someone had a go at this, they connected input to output on the connector of the amplifier's connector plug. The head unit speaker output was then wired to the existing wiring loom. It did work, but the "sub" speakers were connected to the rear speaker outputs, as such there was very little bass output ...

21

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: sun blind

« on: 27 May 2007, 15:42:44 »

I had them on both of my elite saloons, I believe the wiring is in place on all models. The plug for the motor is on the nearside of the car, under the parcel shelf - 2 pin if I remember rightly. You'll need to fit the switch to the dash too. You'll need to remove the parcel shelf cover, hopefully there will be a blind-shaped hole in the metalwork underneath. The blind is fixed to that by six bolts. Personally I'd screw it in place, connect the wiring up and test it works before refitting the parcel shelf cover as the blinds do seem to have a habit of seizing up if not used regularly  

22

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: reversing sensors

« on: 24 May 2007, 22:37:19 »

on my first miggy I fitted one of the Taurus systems - about £70 if I remember rightly - they use a metal tape that you stick to the inside of the bumper, this generates a magnetic field and detects obstacles ... worked pretty well and there's no need to keep the sensors clean unlike on the cheaper ones. Or drill any holes in the bumper. On the downside however it only works when the car is moving relative to a fixed object. Once you've stopped, the Vx park pilot sensor will keep beeping until you take it out of reverse - the Taurus one won't.

It's also pretty sensitive - once fitted if you put the car in reverse (with the engine off) so that the sensor is live - and wave your hand behind the bumper, that will trigger it ...

Didn't fit one on the second miggy (meant to though  ) and the current one's got the Vx park pilot fitted which is good enough  

23

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: bogits bose :)

« on: 21 May 2007, 09:21:05 »

the bracket (bottom left of that picture) is fixed over the top of the central locking controller by two plastic nuts, 10mm comes to mind ... remove those (one either side of the controller) and the bracket lifts off, the speaker wiring loom connector clips into the bracket.

24

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: bose and ariel questions.

« on: 19 May 2007, 12:03:41 »

... no tweeters fitted to rear doors (unless they're integrated with the woofers) ...

25

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: ipod

« on: 10 May 2007, 18:15:04 »

Don't bother with the FM senders - everyone I've tried has always ended up hissing or picking up some interference. On the old Omega I fitted a Sony head unit with an Aux connector on the front panel - not perfect - but great sound! The new Omega has the Bose unit - so I want to keep it - see my other post

the FM transmitters I've tried are cack (griffin itrip) ... however what comes with the harman kardon drive & play is a FM modulator - this connects between the head unit and aerial cable, and as such isn't really susceptible to interference. You do however get a bit of hissing on quiet tracks, but I don't know of any other way of connecting to the NCDC2013 bose head unit I've got in my facelift omega ... as there's no option to select an aux input ...  

26

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: ipod

« on: 02 May 2007, 19:35:29 »

... or for a more permanent installation, consider a harman kardon drive & play unit - which can now be had for about £60 (see an example fleabay listing here)

I've got one fitted in mine, it uses an FM modulator (rather than transmitter) so it plugs in between the head unit and aerial cable. You do get hissing during quiet bits of music, but I don't think there's a lot you can do about that. From memory the only external audio input to the facelift head unit I had (NCDC2013) is for a phone, and as such is mono not stereo. Plus there's no way of selecting that input from the front panel ...  

27

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Radio fuse blown now no volume

« on: 18 April 2007, 00:32:46 »

hmmm ... just a thought ... with yours being an elite (although you don't say what year) it'll have either a philips or bose setup (Is the changer philips or blaupunkt?) - which means a powered amplifier. Could be the fuse to that has gone too ... I've a feeling it's on a different one to the head unit ... according to the fusebox listing here yours has these relevant fuses:

4--10A CD Changer
6--10A Radio
12-20A Courtesy light, tunk lamp, hazard warning flashers, information display, radio
15-15A Reverse lamps, cigarette lighter, glove compartment lamp, automatic transmission, automatic level control system, cruise control, ventilation for rear door windows, seat and mirror adjustment, radio

and possibly also

29-20A Terminal 30. constant current for caravan/trailer (pikey optional fit, can be used for simple audio instals)

so check all of those  

28

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: CDR 2005 unit removal

« on: 10 March 2007, 09:54:31 »

you can get double DIN extraction keys from halfrauds which is probably your best bet, from what I remember they sell them for £3.99 which is what they go for on fleabay - before postage!!

29

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: blaupunkt cdc2 changer

« on: 10 April 2007, 20:35:32 »

many headunits nowadays have pre-outs designed for aftermarket amplifiers. Whilst these are at a higher level (typically 2V or 4V), they are much closer to line level outputs (0.7V to 1V) and as such it has been suggested that it might be possible to connect an aftermarket head unit to a bose setup, if an adaptor lead was made up. You'd need to get a standard hi-fi phono patch lead (with phono plugs on each end) - chop it down and wire into the speaker connections on the car's wiring loom (personally I'd want to use an adaptor lead and butcher that instead of the car's loom though), the phono plugs would then connect to the pre-outs on the aftermarket headunit.

But it's just a theory ... *might* work though  

30

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: new head unit

« on: 16 April 2007, 21:15:49 »

host them on photobucket, when you upload them it gives you links to the pic ... use the [IMG] one ...