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[HerefordElite]

support on axle stands always, and don't forget to undo brake fluid reservoir cap and put some rag around the side of reservoir body.

Better to undo the bleed nipple and let the fluid out as you push the calipers back then you don't risk inverting the seals on the master cylinder.

but you'll need 3 pairs of hands to do that - or will have to bleed afterwards? :-?

[Andy B]

......
but you'll need 3 pairs of hands to do that - or will have to bleed afterwards? :-?

Just slacken off the bleed nipple (preferably with a tube over the end going to a jar) as you push the piston back in to put tthe new pads in. Effectively you're bleeding them as you do this. Obviously keep an eye on  the reservoir level.  

[KillerWatt]

Thats a hell of a lot of faith to put into a simple oil seal

A simple rubber ring it may be, but unless it manages to blow itself out in an instant, there is no way the jack will let the car drop instantly.

Just like Andy B, I am guilty of leaving the car supported by the jack itself (not the cheap Halfords crap I hasten to add) if doing a simple job such as pads, although I always leave the wheel under the sill and never put any part of my body between the car & the tarmac while performing said task.

As for slackening off a bleed nipple while pushing pistons back, there really should be no need if the braking system is functioning as the manufacturer intended.

[Andy B]

......
As for slackening off a bleed nipple while pushing pistons back, there really should be no need if the braking system is functioning as the manufacturer intended.

Seals are easily reversed if you force the fluid back up to the reservoir too quickly .... apparently!  

[KillerWatt]

......
As for slackening off a bleed nipple while pushing pistons back, there really should be no need if the braking system is functioning as the manufacturer intended.

Seals are easily reversed if you force the fluid back up to the reservoir too quickly .... apparently!  

I'm reading that as a bit of a laugh at someones expense Andy

I've been doing "home servicing" for 27 years, and never managed to reverse a seal on itself.
I'm not saying it couldn't happen of course....I'm sure if someone could manage to exert 1000's of lbs of pressure, or the seal was shagged from the start then it may very well fail....but other than that.......

[HerefordElite]

......
As for slackening off a bleed nipple while pushing pistons back, there really should be no need if the braking system is functioning as the manufacturer intended.

Seals are easily reversed if you force the fluid back up to the reservoir too quickly .... apparently!  

I'm reading that as a bit of a laugh at someones expense Andy

I've been doing "home servicing" for 27 years, and never managed to reverse a seal on itself.
I'm not saying it couldn't happen of course....I'm sure if someone could manage to exert 1000's of lbs of pressure, or the seal was shagged from the start then it may very well fail....but other than that.......

been servicing my own and family's cars for 15 years and never managed to do it either :-?

[SMD]

thanks for all the replies.

i will not take any risks so axle stands all they way, but where can i safely put them under the car?

secondly, do i need to remove the entire caliper or can i get away with just removing one of the bolts and swinging the caliper off the disc (with the other bolt still attached) and change the pads like that?

tools wise, i dont have a ratchet/socket set, can i do the job with a pair of adjustable spanners?

also can someone please explain what this post is about? http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1192573698


thanks once again  


  

[Andy B]

thanks for all the replies.

i will not take any risks so axle stands all they way, but where can i safely put them under the car?

secondly, do i need to remove the entire caliper or can i get away with just removing one of the bolts and swinging the caliper off the disc (with the other bolt still attached) and change the pads like that?

tools wise, i dont have a ratchet/socket set, can i do the job with a pair of adjustable spanners?
also can someone please explain what this post is about? http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1192573698


thanks once again  


  

In a word ...... NO!

The post shows where the sensor for the low brake pad warning clips to the brake pad(s)

[HerefordElite]

thanks for all the replies.

i will not take any risks so axle stands all they way, but where can i safely put them under the car?

secondly, do i need to remove the entire caliper or can i get away with just removing one of the bolts and swinging the caliper off the disc (with the other bolt still attached) and change the pads like that?

tools wise, i dont have a ratchet/socket set, can i do the job with a pair of adjustable spanners?

also can someone please explain what this post is about? http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1192573698


thanks once again  


  

I always jack the front by locating saddle of jack in the 'lifting cup' on end of chassis arm and then put an axle stand under the main chassis rail.


and no you'll need a bit more than an adjustable spanner

[feeutfo]

generally its a good idea to buy a pair of ware sensors with the pads from vx. They are brittle and difficult to remove without breaking. You can try to remove and re use the old ones but they will most likely break first time you do it. There is a knack to it.(i am assuming all models have them by the way?)
Also do not fix them to the pad until you are dead certain of the routing as you dont want to have to take them out again and risk breaking the new ones. If you do get the old ones off in one piece you can take the new ones back, if they let you.

Imho its good tip to open the bleed nipple when pushing the piston back in as it will help remove the fluid most exposed to heat from the breaks. Bleed some fluid(4 dot) through at this point if you can.  Seem to remember Mark dtm talking about this....

If you leave the nipple done up you will need to remove the master cylinder cap and be carefull the fluid does not over flow when the piston pushes the fluid back to the reservoir.

Good idea to support the caliper as said, you dont want the whole wait pulling on the brake lines.

Also worth checking the caliper sliders move freely and are not dry. Do not use copper slip for this, grease only.

Use stands if you have them and or put the removed wheel under the sill.


All else is fairly straight forward iirc.
Hth

[Andy B]

......
As for slackening off a bleed nipple while pushing pistons back, there really should be no need if the braking system is functioning as the manufacturer intended.

Seals are easily reversed if you force the fluid back up to the reservoir too quickly .... apparently!  

I'm reading that as a bit of a laugh at someones expense Andy

I've been doing "home servicing" for 27 years, and never managed to reverse a seal on itself.
I'm not saying it couldn't happen of course....I'm sure if someone could manage to exert 1000's of lbs of pressure, or the seal was shagged from the start then it may very well fail....but other than that.......

I'm not that sure I've ever done it myself either. I'm unsure of the general performance of my brakes at the moment anyway. I'm sure that there used to be a bit more feel to them, but Mark drove my car and didn't think they were any different from any other, but .... I drove Ian_D's diseasal and I thought its were better than mine.

PS I've got another 10 years on you for home servicing.      

[Andy B]

...... Do not use copper slip for this, grease only.
 ......

Why?  :-/  :-/  :-/ I've used it for (more than 27  ) years!

[HerefordElite]

...... Do not use copper slip for this, grease only.
 ......

Why?  :-/  :-/  :-/ I've used it for (more than 27  ) years!

lol

old git

[Andy B]

....

lol

old git

that's me!  







and less of the old!!!!    

[HerefordElite]

....

lol

old git

that's me!  









and less of the old!!!!    

sorry - experienced git