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Topics - JohnM

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1
Fed up of tripping over it.  Is my dead 120A alternator of any interest to anyone ?

I couldn't split the diode pack - but thinking these are actually okay.
It does *need* a rear bearing, the plastic bearing surround is intact (which is more than can be said for the bearing cage). The rings have been scored but have cleaned up nicely, brushes some life in them and all makes good contact - checked under rotation too.

I did spin it will a small battery drill but suspect far too slow, the output didn't put out my makeshift 'charge' lamp, I did gets some voltage out of it but not enough although this likely equated to an in-car speed of only 250-500rpm.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/KH8Ajptshk9Su83z7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/W6mARLcRCnnpvmb37

Currently reassembled less this part:-
https://photos.app.goo.gl/NdYemE8AA4LdeJHF6

2
As above.
For my 2.5L 98 CD(X).
Known fully working, no issues (or competently repaired etc.), ready to install.
Could do with being fairly local as I suspect P&P is excessive (and I'd have to drive some French piece of tat to get there).

3
Omega General Help / Replacement alternator (I think)
« on: 29 February 2020, 23:20:09 »
Can anyone tell from their armchair what alternator (number) I need to look out for please.  2.5L (mini/pre facelift), originally (I believe) an auto but wears a manual box.
Or where to check on it when dry and light.

Following what I can only describe as a 'dash reset' (dials) had the IGN lamp showing and (much) later TC and SRS temporarily joined the party (the charge lamp even went out once or twice).  Some rather loud noises (not good) at one point and I expect I've confirmed the source of my noise - but now failed electrically too (internal damage?). Managed a place of safety (pub with food for lunch) and exercised my recovery premium.  My battery must have been feeling very good to have got so far (a tense 15-20').  Back home and the battery voltage (it still started) dropped from 12.3v (off) to 11.something running and never increased a drop (running); so definitely no charging at all.

Is an alternator change easy on the (cold) driveway (garage in use) or, as I think for me, am I better getting hold of its replacement and tasking to somewhere with a lift ?  Any gotchas waiting for me ?

4
Omega General Help / Windscreen replacement - what is involved?
« on: 12 December 2019, 14:19:04 »
Given that nothing here goes quite according to plan; what is the norm for a windscreen change ?

Is it all done from the 'outside', leaving scuttle in place etc. (not that mine is back on yet).
Am I right in thinking it is a bonded screen and the big seal is simply to keep the water out of the surrounding metalwork.

Do the companies change seals or not, wreck seals, charge for them if found less than perfect ?
In reality, are any of the bigger (insurance) fitters better than any others (if I could get a choice) ?

Am I in for a world of pain or will I be peasantly surprised (if lighter in the wallet under for the glass excess).

5
Omega General Help / Removing the aux belt tensioner
« on: 09 December 2019, 13:39:39 »
I think that torrential rain has washed the last of the grease from my tensioner bearing, I've a nasty whir coming from that area.  My forum mojo isn't working and the nearest I saw was the alternator change.

How does this actually come off ?  (what do I need to do)
Will the idler wheel just pull off the tensioner once the aux belt is off and the 15mm unscrewed ?
Is there a good exploded diagram of the device somewhere?

Once in my hand I'm sure I can either regrease the bearing/replace the bearing/change the whole gizzmo complete.
At the moment everything is in its place.

15mm hex and metal bar at the ready ...

6
Restoring the 'misfire' project: (I needed it all off again - original post to be updated in due course).

Can anyone confirm by wire colour codes which 2-pin connector is which ?  (IAC / Rear multiram)
- old 'un, pre-facelift, S 98?

With 'further work' it is possible that the IACV plug and the rear multi-ram plug may have become swapped.
Both have the same plug, both have orange plaggy bit inside and come from the cable tray (all been out).
I did wonder as I put it together again (the first time back it was correct) but there is no way to identify one from the other; the cable that looks like it should run the the IAC motor is plugged there. 
I can only think to identify by the colours of the wires; but I only have haynes for a diagram (I found it!) and it isn't helping much as Y15 solenoid secondary air intake (295 BN,VI) is showing in different places, I think the IAC is M33 - yet to be located.
The wiring colouring is old, dirty and hard to verify but I'm hoping to be able to distinguish A from B if anyone has a better source.  Neither look to have one brown and one violet to me.

Symptoms: started up with 1.5-2k revs for say 5 seconds, then dropped back to idle but died. Restarted but unhappy (cold). No EML when running.

7
Omega General Help / Finding part numbers
« on: 22 November 2019, 12:07:18 »
Does anyone have a magic reference to part numbers or are they viewable somewhere online ?

I'm after the p/n for some extra parts as having had the plenum off I have been cleaning.

Rear air valve (mult-ram?) to plenum (sits inside the plenum) O ring (almost the size plenum O rings) - as I've been in to clean that up.
Breather bridge to throttle bodies, the 2 smaller O rings (not removed yet but will change if available) are these 90500983 ?
Throttle body to front plenum, pale O rings - 2 off (not disturbed yet as didn't want to pop out).

To confirm, also the plenum seal; is this 90467543 (x1) and the main plenum O rings 9118135 (x6) ?

The bridge breather setup was pretty much clean and clear (but even cleaner now!) but the rear valve hadn't been done and was quite gungy - not that I think it mattered but is better for it.






8
Omega General Help / Very simple Q - wiper blade arms
« on: 21 November 2019, 16:09:49 »
Having reorganised the garage floor of bits from my dis pack removal task, and ahead of any refit in the future, can someone with a pre-facelift look at their car sometime for me to see which wiper arm is which please.

I *think* the one with the kink is the o/s arm and the straight arm n/s, but I'd like to confirm ahead.

Thanks.

9
Omega General Help / Simple Q - throttle cable disconnect
« on: 12 November 2019, 12:42:30 »
Whilst I never had the proper nack to this, I've hit a small roadblock to my work having completely forgotten quite how to do this.

How does the throttle cable ball end come off ?
I can move a clip back towards the out sheath but the cable remains firmly attached - and I want it all right out of the way.

I'm thinking the cruise cable will simply wiggle off when the above is clear (?)

10
Omega General Help / Misfire
« on: 09 November 2019, 15:13:27 »
Hi all.
Can anyone help me out with this one please.
2.5 pre-facelift (est).

Short version.
Misfire, feels to be sometimes running on 5, or maybe 4 and two halves.
This did clear (itself) but has returned, higher revs definately helps. Last trip (back from Cornwall) it was moderately uneven.
How to prove/what should do next.

Full version.
This reared its head just before a long trip at the end of October. Quite a bad and consistant misfire, intermittantly clearing and clearing with higher revs.  No EML.
The car doesn't get used much and the outing prior was for MOT and a change of track rod end, whilst there I asked them to change the oil & filter which I provided (saves my armpit).  Seemed okay on collection. No other work recently.
Wanting to check for possible 'oil wells' (N/S gasket has always had a slight weep) I set to do this the weeks prior to our jollies. The car actually went to a local diagnostic place for these check but at that time no misfire.  Clean bill of health later and with no misfire present nothing replaced (cam gasket given a 'its weeping a bit').
Trip to Cornwall, slight misfire present hundreds of miles later. Around Cornwall, pretty much 50/50 misfire present some of the time. Return trip about the same. The journey there, most of time there and the journey back was near full-on rain.
I've set about checking the HBV for leaks (although plenty of cool/warmth as required) and whilst I can't really say for sure (can't get right around it) it seems dry. Nothing noted from the car running stone cold to just warm frm the vents.  The dis pack (top) seems dry (there are one or two shiny parts to the body but I think that is just the pack shell - paper towel didn't shoe any wetness).
But (and there's always one) the sound deadening foam pack underneath the scuttle was wet and just about the whole of the metal body under the windscreen is wet/damp and rusty.  I've had to remove the foam pack to dry it (I doubt it'll go back unless an absolute) and dried up the plastics.  This, I think, is from the failing windscreen, some delaminations and cracks to boot.

How can I prove the actually cause of the intermittant misfire, what are the odds on a dead damp dis-pack and can these be replaced still ?  Given time/help will it dry further if wet underneath (where I can't feel).
Other thoughts ?

I appreciate this is going to take some time.

11
Hi.

Victor Meldrew moment for me; flat battery the other day - needed a fast charge to get going (had been idle for 9-days but warm(ish) and dry in the garage.  Restarted from my desination some 6 hours later okay.

Today I've set about finding out why and have some worrying current drains going on, but firstly; the battery is not holding charge (hardly at all) 14.3v running down to 13.2v within minutes of switching off (struggled to restart engine) and I need to replace it.  Does anyone know how much a Go GM72-H3 (as on it now) or similar is for me to pick up on Friday??  Does anyone have a good (enough) spare nearby (Newark) or towards Bradford from Newark?

I'll change the battery but will I still be left with an issue - the current drain as measured is now about 150mA (settled).  If I remove *both* #1 and #2 big 80A fuses (pre-facelift) and then replace them it drops to c.20mA (I'm fine with that - should I be okay with 150mA?).

I've also got a lot hanging off the +ve terminal.  Main cable (black)(solenoid?) and another short red to the maxi-fuses (6 but only 5 used). And also some tapped onto the smaller screw - a black (is/was this the alarm sounder? it doesn't appear to take current at all) plus two added reds each with an in-line fuse (2x 15A).  One of these two draws about 160mA after 8 seconds reconnected - I wondered if these were for the towbar electrics but the main trailer lights appear to work (inc. buzzer) without this.

I went through the cabin fuses and replays to find the drain but nothing obvious.  My fuse17 does odd things when pulled but if I remove the larger fan fuse it drops to zero.  Eberything else appears to work as expected - my rear power plug goes off with the ignition (I think that's right for a pre-FL).  The engine bay relays I can't work out - the release tab seems to free the mounting complete with loom - do you ease it all up to release the relay module or maybe release them all together ?  (eek).

Photos to follow but firstly a need some electrons.

P.S. The battery dot indicator is actually green - does this work?

12
Omega General Help / Roadside Jack
« on: 06 April 2015, 11:51:23 »
Hi peeps. Trust you are still all well.

I doubt I could use it (perhaps left handed) but I've discovered I've no jack in the car.
- Unless there is another hiding place!

I have still got this one from my Scorpio but I can't for the life of me remember how the Omega one fits - seem to think it is a square peg.  So, is it any use me carrying around this ford one?  And/or, does anyone have a spare jack (or even mine?).

Everything else (plus bits) seems to be there okay.  Probably missing since I took it off Pete - he quite probably even told me too.

This is the ford one:-



13
As summer should be on it way anytime now, I should get this job done.

So I'm after a working heater control solenoid (for an pre-facelift ECC if it matters).
Please reply/PM me (not on here too often) if you have anything - nearer the better.


14
Omega General Help / Pre-facelift ECC
« on: 31 July 2012, 17:05:17 »
Hi.  Can someone with a Pre F/L check if their ECC does this - I might just have missed this previously:-

All working normally*, left & right temperatures linked / set the same (as more usual for me). Stop and switch off ignition; both temps go to " - - " for 1/2 to 1 second - then nothing as switched off.

Is it telling me something (lowish pres?) or do they do that sir ?

* Not ever so cold last week.

15
General Car Chat / John's MOT failure
« on: 25 April 2012, 17:45:24 »
Was taken a back to hear the estate failed it's MOT;
- this is a pretty tidy car that doesn't want for too much. 
Sure there will be maintenance/routine replacement of parts but I knew of nothing pending (unless those w/bones, but they rarely fail a mot).

Equally surprised to confirm it passed next test after they'd sorted the issue (standing instructions on my cars - if simple/quick/cheap fix it, because I don't really want to have to take it back).

HIDs without washers - not mentioned.
No air freshensers anywhere (although a nearby station was offering a pre-mot with free freshener!!!)
Cleaned & tidy. No warnings up at all.
Forgot to check the tyre presures - but it wasn't that.

Anyone care to guess what the refusal sheet says ?


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