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16

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Q: Estate aerial options

« on: 06 November 2011, 23:28:35 »

Given the fitted bee string aerial points backwards at about 45º it catches (badly) when shutting the garage door - I need to take it off - what do other folk do ?

Compromise with a shorter one (I reckon a liitle less the half length will fit), what about radio reception? I possess many types of saw!

Bend it into a contorted forward facing 'inverted L', or perhaps a sideways one. Are they robust enough?

Fit a rubber helical - can you get them with this metric thread?
(I know I've seen someones at a meet like this, but my memory fails me).

Will this leave the phone reception unaffected?

17

Cars for Sale & wanted / For sale: F/L Auto Saloon CDX 2.6

« on: 06 November 2011, 18:26:27 »

Here is my facelift for sale - not the best example by any means but a shame to break it.
A bit of history to this one, but mainly debodged now and expect it to keep going for years to come. This is a 2.6L V6 running with 2.5 heads. No bolts for the coil packs but hasn't caused any problems.
Internal and external body work has had a tough life but still very functional.
In daily (or as often as my car is needed) use for now but must retire it in the next day or so as the current (new) rules say I must sorn it if no insurance. (110k miles on the clock)

Easiest to list the good, the indifferent and the bad.
Good: HIDs (factory), cruise, chromatic mirror, all running, no faults, sailed through its last MOT (7/2011). All lights in and out working. Powersounder removed (fire risk). All doors & windows working. Two keys (only two in system), two fobs - one recently repaired with new switches.
Cam covers seals (1/2010)(Mark). New stat. Coolant bridge seals. Rewired towbar electrics (twin fitted but only 12N wired). Autobox oil & filter changed. Rear tyres recent. Running on VX semu-synth - no mayo.
Indifferent: Front suspension parts wearing, d/links knocking - don't suppose the bones are too far behind them. Battery condition to be tested this winter.
Bad: Bodywork scratches that I've never got around to. Small rust spot r/o/s arch. New bash on front bumper (last week or so). Driver's seat heater non operative, passenger's seat heater disconnected due control fault (nop), air conn' nop. Broken f/n/s window switch (ok from driver's switches). Front cigar lighter socket nop (contacts on tray u/s). Alarm horn v.quite (silent) I think I disturbed it when attending to the powersounder (expect not put the plug back fully). f/n/s door card not fully secure.

All I can think of at the moment. Looking for £550. Pictures to follow.
- or should I break it?

18

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / X21 Connector

« on: 27 May 2010, 22:37:13 »

Is this its proper name?

And more to the point - can I buy the plug-in part itself (shown is the car loom fitted part). (Without a new set of 12x sockets and cables).

19

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Facelift heated seat on (in summer)

« on: 03 August 2009, 21:14:56 »

Prob1.
(Shouldn't start listing them I know.)

Passenger heated seat is on (lowish I think) even when the control is at zero and the led is out.

Firstly, without upsetting anything else, how to easily kill the it's power - control module anywhere?

Secondly, given the control measures a nicely stepped resistance from disconnect, 1/2KOhm through to about 5KOhm (IIRC) and the yellow led/bulb and the backlight bulb seems right I think the switch seems good (can't swap as driver different shape) I assume there's a control pickup gone faulty - where might I find it to repair/replace?

Anyone with a similar problem now cured?

20

Omega General Help / My coolant leak

« on: 29 June 2010, 23:57:20 »

For 'calibration'.

So my 2.55L pain looks like she's slowly bleeding to death. Looked like ATF on the drive at first - probably washing some oily/rusty crud down. In the garage on newspaper dries to a watery pale pink. Left (nearside) of centre (just). A clean dab on white paper shows it bright pink - almost red. Photo 1 shows some, the blue screwdriver handle is about true colour-wise. I do have some coolant loss - I reckon about 3/4" down.

So a mad dash has indeed shown the HBV looks okay (thanks for the prompts). Where I can get to seems dry. Both heater hoses started to warm soon after the engine started which surprised me - but on LO was cool air from the vents. HI was hot. Tried LO-HI-Lo etc still dry. Again with thermostat open, dry. I did notice one heater hose seems to be a wierd clip missing and I can move that hose about ten degrees - but still dry there.

Taking a look underneath reveals more.

Scuttle bodge repair broke - temporary sealed by tape (Aghh) but at least all back.

Just in time (no tea) to hear eldest play first clarinet in the summer concert - kinda makes up for it all (well the today part anyway)!

21

Omega General Help / Wanted- pictures of underside engine/gearbox(auto)

« on: 12 August 2009, 22:31:09 »

Looking to identify what the two torx bolts are (c.10mm) that hang downwards to the rear of the engine. Does anyone have any photos of the underside.

Nothing seen in the guides, I can't make out from just looking which surfaces these are and what the bolts hold.

Seem to have drips of something brown (light weight, doesn't smell of anything at all) accumulating on these bolt heads.

22

Omega General Help / How to unplug a seat.

« on: 06 August 2009, 09:00:16 »

Following a dead thread http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1249330496,

What is the best/easiest way to disconnect the front passenger heated pad/s as a temporary measure.

[F/L Saloon]

23

Omega General Help / Removing the window switch block (door)

« on: 07 August 2009, 12:10:18 »

Trying to reseat a door card - as it's not held in fully at the top (lock end).

Found all the screws so far, should be one hiding behind the block with the elec window switch. This block won't release for me. I've got too tough with it now and broken or pulled the switch back off. Still the block remains. How do you do yours?

Need to get in twice now. One to release the door card to re-hang and now to repair/replace the switch!

Sorry poor photo, 1s exposure!
This block will eventually lift about 2" or so but no further - just see the front metal retaining clips.

24

Omega General Help / K63 relay (horn) location?

« on: 19 April 2009, 20:52:06 »

Looking to locate K63.

Fuse17 blown and replacement glowed and blew (~3s). No horn everything else seems okay. Alarm horn works (think this is a different device).

If Mr Haynes is right and if I've read it right, circuit could be; anyone care to verify?

FV6 feeding F17

F17 feeding a) K63 relay coil and b) horns H18/H48/H2 (are there three?)

K63 coil to a) S64(a) and U28 to S64(b)

S64(a) and S64(b) to earth - sorry, must call it 0v.

Horns to relay contact (NO) to 0v

Where is K63 hiding
What/where is U28 - not listed in my lie book.
Anyone other ideas/previous faults they care to share.
Is K63 the same as anything else I can swap with to prove/eliminate - when found.

-2.5L minifacelift.

25

Omega General Help / Non urgent - door locks

« on: 12 February 2009, 20:15:05 »

So, Gents (and gals also of course) your deeper thoughts on this if you please;

I feel this may have to run it's course and clear or fail properly to know for sure.

Drivers door (others okay):

Started to not lock on first fob press but locked on deadlock (always use deadlocks). Button didn't drop and could open the door until deadlocked.

Then progressed to lock okay, fail to open on fob. Key opened fine with little pressure. If opened on key alone, alarm triggered.

Last weekend I gave it a (very) liberal spray with some light mech oil in the key barrel.

Today, informed that car locked and unlocked as expected okay. Until the last two openings when it reverted back to not locking until deadlocked.

I know it has been a little cold, but there's really no need for such hassles.

PS. I know, I've not been around so much lately - just busy that's all.

26

Omega General Help / Sanity check - scuttle drain

« on: 01 July 2008, 20:05:19 »

Unavailable at the weekend to get banned, but able to play miggys anyway I spend a happy Saturday half-doing some jobs.

So I thought I should check that drain. So having gone about it the long way round (two wipper arms on the floor!); I was, and still am, perplexed. Where is the Beasty?

I should add it was all quite dry in there other than a tiny bit of damp 'stuff' (removed most) at the very bottom of a rubber bung rearward of a loom heading into the engine bay. So I'm assuming all is actually well in there.

No photos so a sketch follows.
Whilst I'd expect this to be the same on all, this one is a mini-facelift 2.5 auto with a/conn. Narrow (white) paper? cabin filter that came out from two clips near the top of the plastic holder/molding.

|------------------------------------------------------------------------------ |
| | filter unit    |
| |    |
| bung |    |
| | X |
| | sm.loom |
| |    |
| loom |    |
| |--------------------------------------------|
| | |
|------------------------| strut top

Mmm, realised I can't really remember the bits here.

Anyway, I expect the bung to have a route out as this looks like it *could* go to the wheel arch behind the strut, but it definately felt really solid. I couldn't get me hand down there very well so could pull the bug up and out.

So, was I close or need to pay more attention?
- has anyone got a bright photograph of the article.

>corrected for mini-facelift

27

Omega General Help / One off gremlin or something dying

« on: 05 April 2007, 22:38:07 »

[Was ! Help ! - drivers door remains locked ]

Well I look a nose yesterday inside the driver's door. Poked about but coundn't see ('cos you can't) and couldn't feel anything off or loose. So thought, I'll just try it.

Fired up the remote, lock/unlock on demand. Check locking with door closed (dodgy eh?) and all is well. Key and/or fob.

Good as gold today. Couple of short trip shopping and later I've been out.

So, key definately wouldn't work to start with - plenty of oil spray down the keyhole and it worked easily a day later. When that was freed the electrics locked okay but refused to unlock this one.

Was it just jammed? It was pretty dry in there, I've put a little grease in places but it is hard to get everwhere in there.

Does anyone have a decent picture of it - I can't quite figure how it is all tied together, for instance I split the smaller 3-pin? plug to the microswitches but the key still fired the central locking (!) - must have missed another cable.

- Door card still off in case (not pretty).

28

Omega General Help / ! Help ! - drivers door remains locked

« on: 01 April 2007, 13:29:20 »

Well I admit I have read here, and elsewhere previously, of such troubles but haven't been able to find a thread in search, so here goes. Sorry if this is 'again'.

Driver's door is locked, I expect deadlocked, and won't open.

The fob is locking and unlocking all the other doors (expected).
The key locks and unlocks all other doors.
Battery ok - charging as we speak - suspect has been lowish (car unused, short trips).
- have I a lazy solenoid that is neither open nor shut?

Unlocked okay this morning in garage, locked at destination. Won't unlock.
Had a concern two? weeks ago but thought the button wasn't 100% up or down (perhaps caught with an elbow) and no trouble since excersising that.

Key locks the rest if operated a/cw (to the left), locks if cw (to the right). If held left locks & then unlocks (I assume car suspects fault - switch held on for too long).

I've tried forcing the key to the right, against stop and some - really as much as I dare, something isn't right here. No joy so far so I've given it a good squirt of oil spray.

Does the key 'force' method unlock deadlocking? (for sure)
Does pulling the metal (by the metal) vertical bar (where the button live on) release the deadlock?

How else do I open her up?
Safe and well and dry on the drive at present - beer cellar could be open ...

29

Omega General Help / Still pulling to the left - but passed for another

« on: 21 December 2006, 20:33:47 »

(re- http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1165353316)
[Please no polls on this one-btw, what was the result (I can't see)]

Remember the old girl ... - things happen rather slowly on the car.

Well the MOT wasn't actually due before (clerical slip), so I've had the best part of a month to dig around and see if I can get to the bottom of this. Alas, things are the same.

Idler has no play in it to pull at.
Re-examined both sides front suspension parts - nothing seen.
Renewed (more for the sake of it) steering fluid - well what you can. I understand it will recirculate the fluid so should sort of flush through. The fluid removed was in an okay state - not new, but not bad looking either.

Went for it's mot, expecting a fail or note that would indicate the problem - even mentioned to examiner (not my idea, but still). Passed mot without even an advisory, examiner couldn't see anything a miss (mot wise).

Stumped now, where do I go with this.
A second option? - anyone fancy telling me where I've gone wrong.
An incorrect setup (if possible) to correct it out?

30

Omega General Help / Odd one - slight pull to the left

« on: 05 December 2006, 21:15:15 »

Okay here goes, it'll be a slow and steady one this.
Mini-facelieft 2½L (R reg) many miles (c.167k)

Symptons. A slight pull to the n/s, about the same under a rolling stop and a sharp brake. Appears to be more noticable at slower speeds.

Tony has seen the car a few times now and is happy it is not geometery related - the figures do not show why it might be a 'lefty'. Also proven not to be pneumatic.

Last year had replacement track rod ends for MOT. Droplink changed to stop 'clunking' over minor pot-holes (so much quieter). New wishbone bushes forward and rearward both sides as front worn (a lot). New shocks as one was weaping a bit (and mileage). Coils look unbroken.

Steering idler appeared 'worn' but now "tightened" by otherwise reliable garage.

Measured ride height okay - although clearance at front arches seem tight.

So this is foxing us all. Tony can't see why it pulls. My garage man can't either (thinks it can only be setup). I've run out of bits (and money) to change. The only other things I can add is that it appears to have occured after the front 'bone bushes were changed (or I've only be able to notice it since). Yesterday I found an empty, even area to play and there are no knocks on full left or right lock but there was the odd cluck/groan and at one point I thought it was all square again until it hit the real road/s and was back to the slight left pull. Someone else drove it and thought it was easier to pull onto full lock to the left than the right (can't be much in it as I hadn't noticed); but despite being set up centred the wheel is rh down about 5 degrees.

Minor after-thought. Whilst otherwise slight, this car has, previous to my ownership (I hasten to add), been in a somewhat minor (cw others) frontal argument. That said, Tony thinks the car is straight and would spot if the chassis was not quite how Vauxhall made it.

Has anyone;
a) experienced of this, and preferably the solution
b) got any really good suggestions
c) want an otherwise nice motor - now with expertly fitted parking sensors (although the buzzer is temporary sited). It is *not* gold, it is platinum!
d) want to sell me an nice clean v6 (with all the statuary done) motor for not too much - PX?

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