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[johnnydog]

The central locking including the boot release on my 2002 3.2 elite is currently inoperative using either key fob.
It starts with both keys, but when trying to lock it or open the boot with either key, nothing. It will lock and deadlock using the key in the drivers door, and then sets the alarm correctly (the flashes on the centre console display), and then the alarm sounds when unlocking it using the key until the engine is started. I have had both keys checked - the usual key I use is sending out a signal on all buttons (although the led doesn't illuminate on the fob); the spare is not sending any signal out when any button is pressed but the led on this fob illuminates. They both have new batteries, and the resyncing procedure hasnt done anything.
The boot releases using the interior button, and the central locking operates when locking the car using the drivers door button manually via the back door, and then unlocks ok using the key in the door lock. The powersounder battery is brand new and has eliminated the periodic middle of the night alarm activations and chirpping, but prior to it being replaced, the car could be locked using the key remote. How long the key has actally been inoperative, I'm not certain because I usually leave it unlocked at home when not in use to reduce battery drain down.
A car locksmith checked for fault codes with the following showing - trunk sw, code 32.
With electricals not being my 'chosen subject', has anyone ever had this issue, or may possibly be able to give me any pointers? I've tried to give as much info as I can to assist you more 'knowledgables'...
TIA

[TheBoy]

So the remote fob is not working at all?

If so, check the battery holder connections to the PCB - a weak point on these if people are heavy handed replacing batteries.

[johnnydog]

The main fob I had been using has been tested and although the led light on it doesn't illuminate, it is sending a signal out from all buttons; the led on the 'spare' fob illuminates, but the fob is 'dead' and is not sending out any signal from any buttons. Does this make sense? Both start the car. The fob batteries are new on both.

[Nick W]

The main fob I had been using has been tested and although the led light on it doesn't illuminate, it is sending a signal out from all buttons; the led on the 'spare' fob illuminates, but the fob is 'dead' and is not sending out any signal from any buttons. Does this make sense? Both start the car. The fob batteries are new on both.

You're mixing up the three separate parts of the key: the remote which operates the central locking and the alarm and is reliant on the battery; the key which operates all the lock barrels, but is normally only used to turn the ignition lock; and the immobiliser chip which is hidden inside the remote body and works on PFM.


Checking the battery holder inside the remote is the first place to check a poorly performing fob.

[Doctor Gollum]

They will start the car as long as the transponder recognises the totally unrelated chip in each key. 

[johnnydog]

The main fob I had been using has been tested and although the led light on it doesn't illuminate, it is sending a signal out from all buttons; the led on the 'spare' fob illuminates, but the fob is 'dead' and is not sending out any signal from any buttons. Does this make sense? Both start the car. The fob batteries are new on both.

You're mixing up the three separate parts of the key: the remote which operates the central locking and the alarm and is reliant on the battery; the key which operates all the lock barrels, but is normally only used to turn the ignition lock; and the immobiliser chip which is hidden inside the remote body and works on PFM.


Checking the battery holder inside the remote is the first place to check a poorly performing fob.

Fair enough, I see your point - I gave the details of everything that the fob and key was or wasn't doing to try and give a clearer picture....obviously it didn't......!

Ok, so the central locking isn't operating using the normal key fob I use remotely. It has been tested by a car key locksmith, and a signal is being transmitted by each button, but this signal is not being picked by whatever receives it in the car to operate the central locking to both unlock and lock it. The boot release button on the fob is sending a signal apparently, but not actually operating the boot release.
Their code reader and key programmer read fault code 32 described as 'trunk sw'.
Using the key manually everything works as it should - it's just the remote side of it that isn't.
If it is transmitting a signal on all buttons, doesn't that mean the battery holder is functioning correctly?
Any thoughts?

[Doctor Gollum]

You haven't managed to swap the fobs during a mass battery replacement session?

If any of your other Omega fobs lock/unlock it then you'll have found the culprit.

[johnnydog]

This is what I said right at the beginning......neither fob locks / unlocks  the car remotely. The 'main' fob is still sending out signals whilst my 'spare' isn't. They couldn't have been confused though during the battery replacement as they have totally different tags on them which were left on, along with spare swan neck towbar keys etc.
I am at a bit of loss as why the signal being transmitted should suddenly stop being picked up by the reciever end of the car?

[Doctor Gollum]

TVP dumped two perfectly good V70s because neither would start... Originally in the workshops for completely unrelated issues and suddenly wouldn't start.

Turned out the keys were swapped by accident.

So don't rule out the stupidly unlikely just because you don't believe that you could do it... Someone else may have.

[TheBoy]

As Nick W explained, the fact that the mechanical key works, and the car starts are nothing to do with the remote locking/unlocking.

The immobiliser chip is the tiny plastic oblong glued into the U shaped piece of the key, and not part of the fob that detaches to change battery (on post 1998 cars).

So it sounds to me like the fob(s) just aren't working, but everything else is.


The fault code is a red herring.  I'm going to assume the car has an alarm, as only cars equipped with ATWS have a fault code 32 - standard Central Locking only ones do not.  On ATWS equipped cars, fault code 32 is inclination sensor malfunction.


Now, I'm making the assumption* that the fobs used to fully work, and nobody has been doing any programming on the system.

I'm also making the assumption** that attempts to synchronise the key have been successful (indicated by the lock/unlock action during the procedure).

So we're back to the original checks of ensuring the battery holder is secure and making good electrical contact with the PCB



*If that assumption is incorrect, then the fobs need to be of the correct type, and programmed correctly to the car using a Tech2.

** If that assumption is incorrect, then try the resin procedure. If that fails, the fob either isn't working, or has not been programmed to the car.

[cam.in.head]

also whilst you are examining the fob battery holder for bad connections it is worth trying different batteries. (or original)just because they are new doesnt always guarantee they are perfect.
im assuming both fobs used to work and did they (or main one) work up to battery replacement ?
also but sorry to insult your intelligence and not sure if it would even work but can the batterybe fitted upside down ?( silly question i know !)
then follow usual resyncing process.

[johnnydog]

TVP dumped two perfectly good V70s because neither would start... Originally in the workshops for completely unrelated issues and suddenly wouldn't start.

Turned out the keys were swapped by accident.

So don't rule out the stupidly unlikely just because you don't believe that you could do it... Someone else may have.

Definately / 100% not the case.....there is no rhyme or reason that could have happened.....

also whilst you are examining the fob battery holder for bad connections it is worth trying different batteries. (or original)just because they are new doesnt always guarantee they are perfect.
im assuming both fobs used to work and did they (or main one) work up to battery replacement ?
also but sorry to insult your intelligence and not sure if it would even work but can the batterybe fitted upside down ?( silly question i know !)
then follow usual resyncing process.

I've replaced the replacement batteries for that reason, and they are the correct way round. Because the main fob stopped working for no reason lead me to first suspect the battery.

As Nick W explained, the fact that the mechanical key works, and the car starts are nothing to do with the remote locking/unlocking.

The immobiliser chip is the tiny plastic oblong glued into the U shaped piece of the key, and not part of the fob that detaches to change battery (on post 1998 cars).

So it sounds to me like the fob(s) just aren't working, but everything else is.


The fault code is a red herring.  I'm going to assume the car has an alarm, as only cars equipped with ATWS have a fault code 32 - standard Central Locking only ones do not.  On ATWS equipped cars, fault code 32 is inclination sensor malfunction.


Now, I'm making the assumption* that the fobs used to fully work, and nobody has been doing any programming on the system.

I'm also making the assumption** that attempts to synchronise the key have been successful (indicated by the lock/unlock action during the procedure).

So we're back to the original checks of ensuring the battery holder is secure and making good electrical contact with the PCB



*If that assumption is incorrect, then the fobs need to be of the correct type, and programmed correctly to the car using a Tech2.

** If that assumption is incorrect, then try the resin procedure. If that fails, the fob either isn't working, or has not been programmed to the car.

Thanks for all the info. Just wondering about whether to get the existing keys properly refurbed or just bite the bullet with new key fobs (not cheap versions) and get them reprogrammed...

[TD]

Sounds liken the same fault my Mondeo had....

Remotes wont lock/unlock the doors but using the key does.
Unlock the drivers door with the key, then i had about 10 seconds to put the ignition on/start the car before the alarm went off.

Mine was diagnosed as a faulty control module inside the dashboard.
Cost of module was estimated at £600, then there was the cost of removing the dash to get to it and then replace the dash.

I replaced the batteries in the fobs but didnt make any difference!

I lived with the problem and then sold the car to a car dealer... i didnt have a guilty conscience ....

Might not be your problem....just it sounds a lot like the fault my Mondeo had....

[cam.in.head]

it does seem strange thou that two fobs for the car have now stopped working and wont resync.especially if the alarm / central locking is working ok manually.
if it were me i would try yet another battery of a totally different batch and 100% be sure all the board connections ( battery holder,switches are ok and that the switches are actually closing and opening )are good and try another resync.
for the minor hassle of resetting the electric windows and roof wont do any harm(or nothing at all !)to disconnect battery for a bit ?
mightbe worth for what it takes to make sure the alarm/central locking ecu is properly plugged in .

you say that the keys have been tested and are giving out a signal so cannot understand why they would loose their programm as such. maybee they can ? ?

sorry if im repeating the obvious or previous mentioned suggestions here .

[TheBoy]

TD - the control units in the Omega are generally rock solid for reliability, although that's no guarantee that its that.  On the Omega, the same control unit deals with central locking and opening the boot (on facelift saloons), so sounds like the unit has not failed completely, though may have developed a fault on the antenna side.