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Messages - johnnydog

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1906
Having a longer working time, for me, is possibly a good thing as it's the first time I used it!

1907
Whilst shopping around at local motor factors for Sikaflex, Tiger Seal PU was recommended as an alternative.
Any thoughts or experiences? I know Tiger Seal has been going for many many years.
One advantage quoted is that you have a longer adjustment time and any excess is easier to remove due to the 30 - 60 min skinning time.
Need to tape it down overnight though whilst it fully cures, apparantly.

1908
I appreciated the info on the EBT, although when I looked at it on the Screw Fix site ,it's use was described as a construction adhesive rather than an automotive adhesive, which was why I stated as such. I didn't follow the helpfulness of the response 'And'. I don't have a local Euro Car Parts either, but the info is on line about Sikaflex products.
I am on two other car forums as well as this, and if I know the answer, I always try to give helpful  informative responses as sometimes it helps to know 'why', not just 'what'.
I could have asked my local body shop, but I initially thought I'd ask fellow OOFers who may have experienced it first hand.
Anyway, I've two choices now, but thanks anyway......

1909


And...???

I simply asked re EBT because it primarily lists it for the construction / building industry, whereas for example Sikaflex 221 Black is listed through Euro Car Parts as suitable for spoilers and wings /panels in the Automotive industry.
Incidentally, people who are passionate about their Omegas come on this site looking for helpful and cheerful advise, not rude or abrupt replies, which do nothing to encourage people to come back. A little explanation wouldn't go amiss - after all people wouldn't ask the questions if they knew the answers, yet those giving the responses may know the answers, but shouldn't expect people to grasp their understanding of the matter from short /abrupt replies.
Apologies - rant/gripe over.......

1910
Sikaflex black ebt... About £7 from Screwfix :y

Guaranteed to 155 ish.


Screw fix site states this is a construction adhesive for building work....

1911
Ta. Just had a Google - would that be Sikaflex 265 Black which is stated to be for automotive use?

1912
Omega General Help / Elite boot spoiler - recommended adhesives to use
« on: 20 September 2015, 16:37:51 »
I have got a replacement boot lip spoiler to replace a damaged one on an Elite saloon. Getting it off the donor boot lid (which was corroded) wasn't easy, but managed it successfully without damage. Had the new boot lid and replacement spoiler sprayed and are ready to fit, but anyone any experience of which is the best adhesive to use? Are any better than others for easy excess adhesive removal, minor adjustment before going off etc etc?
Any other tips welcomed.
Thanks in advance!

1913
Did you get fixed up in your search for a mint 3.2 Elite, Hudson?

1914
Omega General Help / Re: Trailing arm bushes - push fit?
« on: 16 September 2015, 19:39:26 »
Never having changed them on an Omega, but on other vehicles.....with that in mind, I would say no. Not many bushes are a push fit. They most probably will need winding out and the new ones  in, with a section of threaded bar, socket and flat washers....some cars have split bushes (in two halves with an inner sleeve which makes the job simpler) unless anyone who has done it can clarify????

1915
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: headlight query
« on: 16 September 2015, 18:44:09 »
I too have several sets of headlights, all from facelift CDX's or above spec...you can have a pair for the same price if you don't get sorted with Alank46's offer.
I live near Burnley if you wanted to save on postage or possible postal damage. PM me if you don't get fixed up.

1916
Omega General Help / Re: Rear wheel arches rusting
« on: 14 September 2015, 12:41:23 »
Forgot to include in the above......you can also gain access to the front areas of the rear inner wheelarch on a saloon by removing the small side bolster either side of the rear seat upright which reveals ideal holes to inject the rust proofing. With the bolster removed, you can also remove the seatbelt / reel and tie it up out of the way so that it doesn't get contaminated and it also provides another access hole.

1917
Omega General Help / Re: Disc size
« on: 14 September 2015, 08:37:06 »
Apologies, just seen it...put my glasses on this time...

1918
Omega General Help / Re: Rear wheel arches rusting
« on: 14 September 2015, 08:27:45 »
Yes, Dynax S-50.

1919
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Battery
« on: 13 September 2015, 22:51:14 »
I have had previous problems with batteries being flat only after a few days of inactivity. In each case, the battery was fine. The problem was a faulty powersounder battery. Changed it, and problem solved every time. Presume it was draining the main car battery.
An easy way to check the power sounder battery is to disconnect the negative lead with out switching the ignition on first (the 15 second procedure). If the alarm goes off, then generally the battery is ok. If there is no sound from it, then it is knackered and needs replacing. Another indication that it is shot at, is if it beeps at you 3 times when locking (or is it unlocking?) the car.
There is plenty of info on here about this issue, by the way.

1920

'Reading Haynes, they say disconnect the Negative WITHIN 15 Seconds.'


If I am not mistaken, this is purely so that the the alarm powersounder doesn't go off when you disconnect the leads.

For only a few pounds you can get a memory saver device that plugs in your diagnostic socket, with two leads off it to connect to a third battery. I connect it to an old 12v house alarm battery which is very small and light to handle, and it is sufficient as it doesn't need much power. This provides enough power to retain the radio code etc whilst you change the battery. You can get cigarette lighter versions, but I prefer the diagnostic plug versions.

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