1
General Car Chat / Re: Piston sequence explanation...
« on: 09 January 2012, 10:38:46 »
Dumb of me, forgot about the firing sequence :S
Anyway, thanks
Anyway, thanks
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2
General Car Chat / Piston sequence explanation...
« on: 08 January 2012, 19:44:52 »
I've been searchin arround the net but could not find anything that provided an answer that would satisfy me. Mostly because I don't know how to form the question or simply because English is not my native language I lack the knowledge of terms.
From time to time it popped in my mind but eventually I forget it. Was bored so here it comes.
These 2 videos are just for presentation so that I'm understood clearly.
inline six:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=5Yl8nqZofrk
inline four:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6eWCjMHWA2k
On these videos you can see clearly that in l6 engine 2 pistons travel in pair. On l4 same stuff.
I know it has something to do about engine balancing, harmonics, etc.
BUT!
What I don't understand why then inline 6 when you in the end get up with "3 cylinders"?
Same goes for 4 pot. You get 2+2 or "2 cylinders".
Except for balancing what are the other reasons for pairing up? Too much mass or space for 2 (or 3) big pistons?
Just curious
From time to time it popped in my mind but eventually I forget it. Was bored so here it comes.
These 2 videos are just for presentation so that I'm understood clearly.
inline six:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=5Yl8nqZofrk
inline four:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6eWCjMHWA2k
On these videos you can see clearly that in l6 engine 2 pistons travel in pair. On l4 same stuff.
I know it has something to do about engine balancing, harmonics, etc.
BUT!
What I don't understand why then inline 6 when you in the end get up with "3 cylinders"?
Same goes for 4 pot. You get 2+2 or "2 cylinders".
Except for balancing what are the other reasons for pairing up? Too much mass or space for 2 (or 3) big pistons?
Just curious
3
Omega General Help / Re: Phantom problem or.....?
« on: 27 November 2011, 10:31:12 »
Well, that doesn't help much 
because as said above mine is 2.0l 16v (x20xev)
Although one thing I've noticed when you "went out the engine" e.g. shift gears on 4-5k rpm with pedal to the carpet (not metal) afterwards it drops to idle speed with no problems and hesitations and stays that way until driven normally for some time or shut off.
because as said above mine is 2.0l 16v (x20xev)Although one thing I've noticed when you "went out the engine" e.g. shift gears on 4-5k rpm with pedal to the carpet (not metal
) afterwards it drops to idle speed with no problems and hesitations and stays that way until driven normally for some time or shut off.
4
Omega General Help / Re: Phantom problem or.....?
« on: 26 November 2011, 14:40:33 »
Another update.
I've checked the fuel tank because something bothered me and I've found out that some incompetent expert didn't fit the lid and gasket on the tank when they closed it aprox month ago when they measured fuel pump pressure. This surely caused a air leak in the system and I guess that it affected the pressure within the system. (that explains engine could start when left alone and tried restarting after few minutes). Also I've been poking around with fuel itself and I think it also added to the problem because after all this I can start the engine normally but to be sure the problem is gone I'll have to wait few days and time itself will tell if the problem persist because for now it seems like I've fixed it.
Although, the idle rpm still gets elevated from time to time and I can only guess that ICV or TPS is feeding false info to the ECU on those moments and to be sure I'll check (or quadruplecheck this time) for vacuum leaks. Any opinion on that would be appreciated
I hope this info can help someone
I've checked the fuel tank because something bothered me and I've found out that some incompetent expert didn't fit the lid and gasket on the tank when they closed it aprox month ago when they measured fuel pump pressure. This surely caused a air leak in the system and I guess that it affected the pressure within the system. (that explains engine could start when left alone and tried restarting after few minutes). Also I've been poking around with fuel itself and I think it also added to the problem because after all this I can start the engine normally but to be sure the problem is gone I'll have to wait few days and time itself will tell if the problem persist because for now it seems like I've fixed it.
Although, the idle rpm still gets elevated from time to time and I can only guess that ICV or TPS is feeding false info to the ECU on those moments and to be sure I'll check (or quadruplecheck this time) for vacuum leaks. Any opinion on that would be appreciated
I hope this info can help someone
5
Omega General Help / Re: No Fault codes.... but miggy won't start...!
« on: 26 November 2011, 10:16:34 »
I have a similar problem. Made a post few days ago.
I've been on diagnostic tools, checked tons of stuff and it still has problems starting. Crank it and it struggles to start. From case to case either you can start it up or I just leave it a min or two and come back and then it manages to start. This happens only when the engine is cold. After start while still not on working temp it tends to choke if you slam on the gas pedal. This happens only when on gasoline, when you switch on LPG it works like a charm. When it gets to working temp either way it works normally.
No errors too. Will go to a garage next week to poke it a bit more.
Either its a sneaky sensor not working properly or its the fuel system but I doubt because we've checked it all.
I've been on diagnostic tools, checked tons of stuff and it still has problems starting. Crank it and it struggles to start. From case to case either you can start it up or I just leave it a min or two and come back and then it manages to start. This happens only when the engine is cold. After start while still not on working temp it tends to choke if you slam on the gas pedal. This happens only when on gasoline, when you switch on LPG it works like a charm. When it gets to working temp either way it works normally.
No errors too. Will go to a garage next week to poke it a bit more.
Either its a sneaky sensor not working properly or its the fuel system but I doubt because we've checked it all.
6
Omega General Help / Re: Phantom problem or.....?
« on: 22 November 2011, 18:22:37 »
I've checked CTS connector today. It was clean and shiny as if it was new. Anyhow gave it a bit of wiping and sprinkled a bit of contact spray in it. I've also checked the connector on the radiator near the cooling fan because it was suspicious but also all in good condition.
I've poked a bit around the net again and stumbled upon www.topbuzz.co.uk on some forum and there's a how to about the CTS. Is there any chance that the diagnostic tool can misinterpret information or any of those conditions/errors mentioned in the guide are easily spotted with it?
Again today the same experience. When cold (after aprox 12hrs not running) I had to crank the engine for 4-5 seconds and then it "caught up" and started. Again some chocking when running on petrol cold and after switching on LPG runs like a charm. When not completely cold the engine starts immediately.
I've poked a bit around the net again and stumbled upon www.topbuzz.co.uk on some forum and there's a how to about the CTS. Is there any chance that the diagnostic tool can misinterpret information or any of those conditions/errors mentioned in the guide are easily spotted with it?
Again today the same experience. When cold (after aprox 12hrs not running) I had to crank the engine for 4-5 seconds and then it "caught up" and started. Again some chocking when running on petrol cold and after switching on LPG runs like a charm. When not completely cold the engine starts immediately.
7
Omega General Help / Re: Phantom problem or.....?
« on: 20 November 2011, 22:32:42 »It was read twice with diagnostics. When it was read is showed temp same as it was in the air (+/- 1 or 2 deg)Was this when the engine was hot?
For the rest read up above.
The symptoms would point to a coolant temp sensor giving wrong values to ECU (has LPG installed purposely modified it?)
Temp was read when it was cold. As for LPG I don't know. It was installed by previous owner so I don't know every detail. As said, I will try to check the temp senor connector tomorrow though its in a pain-in-the-ass location. It is somewhere below the EGR valve right?
8
Omega General Help / Re: Phantom problem or.....?
« on: 20 November 2011, 15:06:54 »Does it work better on petrol or LPG
Work is the same when engine is warm aka achieved working temp. When cold it chokes a bit when when reved up on gasoline.
Do you have facilities to read the Coolant Temp sensor?
To clarify, when the engine is not up to temp, it runs OK on LPG, but poorly on petrol? Or have I misread?
It was read twice with diagnostics. When it was read is showed temp same as it was in the air (+/- 1 or 2 deg)
For the rest read up above.
In the absence of diagnostic kit I would highly recommend pulling the plug on the coolant temperature sensor, squirting it with contact cleaner (or WD40) and plugging it securely back in place.
I used to have a 2.0 Carlton (Omega A) where the sensor is exposed on the front of the engine. It used to run well in wet weather but like a pig in dry weather. I eventually discovered corrosion on the pins in the CTS connector. WD40 fixed it
Will try that tomorrow just to double check it. I think my friend did inspect the connector but just to be sure.
9
Omega General Help / Phantom problem or.....?
« on: 20 November 2011, 11:59:10 »
Last 2-3 months I've been having problems, it all started with:
1. Firstly my camshaft sensor went dead. Lamp was on, the error was there. Tried poking around to make sure it was not some false info and in the end we were 100% sure it's dead. New one was fitted and off we go.
2. After fitting new camshaft sensor things were normal for few days and then started the idling problems. You could start up the engine and it worked perfectly. You could rev it up and let it go and it went to idle rev speed. But!
Put it in gear and try to move the car and then press the clutch and release the gas pedal and it wouldn't always went to normal rev speed. It went from 800ish to 1500. It was a random case. It didn't stop after few days and was so annoying I've decide to clean the throttle body again (did it last year around the same time). All was in great condition but I've cleaned it anyway. There were slight improvements but nothing much.
After that I've decided to go to a local garage that (sort of) specialize in Opel cars and explained the problem. Everything was checked. No errors, no misfires, no vacuum leaks. Nothing. The guy told me that he suspects maybe a false info from a sensor or clogged up injectors but didn't have the time then to poke around my car so I gave it a rest then.
Everything was like that for a month or so and last 2-3 weeks (I think) another problem occurred.
When the engine is cold it had troubles starting up. This went to trying to start it up until my battery is near dead. Cables did the trick but next day I've talked to a friend who repairs cars and explained all above and told him that it might me dirty injectors.
He cleaned the injectors (with some professional stuff machine) but the problem still persisted.
After that we've checked everything. Injectors are cleaned (look like brand new), new spark plugs, no spark plug cable problems. New ignition gizmo was borrowed from the store (dunno the english word for it) but same stuff. Also the new MAF was tried on, same problem. No vac leaks. Engine compression is great. New battery is fitted. Temp sensor is ok. NO ERRORS! (he has some high tech diagnostic stuff for Opel cars).
The car still sometimes struggles with starting up and revs don't act normal as they should be but there is a lot of improvement from the above text. When engine is cold and fired up if you rev it up it chokes a bit. After some time it switches to LPG and then you can do what you want with it its perfect but switch it back to gas (when its not on working temp) and it chokes again if you rev it up. Back on LPG and it acts perfect. When working temp is achieved the choking problem is gone (or if it appears its 1 out of 100 i guess). Again if rev'd up in place it goes back to normal idle. If driven or moved few meters mostly idle rev will be elevated a bit and then after a sec or 2 go back to normal.
Wall of text. I've explained the best I've could. Maybe I got lost in explanation and missed some details so point them out
Ive been poking around the net and came to a conclusion either crank shaft sensor or ICV is giving me headache.
Anybody has any experience with this kind of problems (or similar)?
Thanks for your time.
P.S.
Opel Omega, X20XEV on LPG, 1997.
1. Firstly my camshaft sensor went dead. Lamp was on, the error was there. Tried poking around to make sure it was not some false info and in the end we were 100% sure it's dead. New one was fitted and off we go.
2. After fitting new camshaft sensor things were normal for few days and then started the idling problems. You could start up the engine and it worked perfectly. You could rev it up and let it go and it went to idle rev speed. But!
Put it in gear and try to move the car and then press the clutch and release the gas pedal and it wouldn't always went to normal rev speed. It went from 800ish to 1500. It was a random case. It didn't stop after few days and was so annoying I've decide to clean the throttle body again (did it last year around the same time). All was in great condition but I've cleaned it anyway. There were slight improvements but nothing much.
After that I've decided to go to a local garage that (sort of) specialize in Opel cars and explained the problem. Everything was checked. No errors, no misfires, no vacuum leaks. Nothing. The guy told me that he suspects maybe a false info from a sensor or clogged up injectors but didn't have the time then to poke around my car so I gave it a rest then.
Everything was like that for a month or so and last 2-3 weeks (I think) another problem occurred.
When the engine is cold it had troubles starting up. This went to trying to start it up until my battery is near dead. Cables did the trick but next day I've talked to a friend who repairs cars and explained all above and told him that it might me dirty injectors.
He cleaned the injectors (with some professional stuff machine) but the problem still persisted.
After that we've checked everything. Injectors are cleaned (look like brand new), new spark plugs, no spark plug cable problems. New ignition gizmo was borrowed from the store (dunno the english word for it) but same stuff. Also the new MAF was tried on, same problem. No vac leaks. Engine compression is great. New battery is fitted. Temp sensor is ok. NO ERRORS! (he has some high tech diagnostic stuff for Opel cars).
The car still sometimes struggles with starting up and revs don't act normal as they should be but there is a lot of improvement from the above text. When engine is cold and fired up if you rev it up it chokes a bit. After some time it switches to LPG and then you can do what you want with it its perfect but switch it back to gas (when its not on working temp) and it chokes again if you rev it up. Back on LPG and it acts perfect. When working temp is achieved the choking problem is gone (or if it appears its 1 out of 100 i guess). Again if rev'd up in place it goes back to normal idle. If driven or moved few meters mostly idle rev will be elevated a bit and then after a sec or 2 go back to normal.
Wall of text. I've explained the best I've could. Maybe I got lost in explanation and missed some details so point them out
Ive been poking around the net and came to a conclusion either crank shaft sensor or ICV is giving me headache.
Anybody has any experience with this kind of problems (or similar)?
Thanks for your time.
P.S.
Opel Omega, X20XEV on LPG, 1997.
10
Omega General Help / Re: SAI...again...
« on: 03 October 2011, 20:16:46 »Remove everything apart from the air valve (to fool ECU) and blank off at the manifold
Air valve is near the pump or somewhere on the pipeworks near the exhaust mainfold?
11
Omega General Help / Re: SAI...again...
« on: 03 October 2011, 15:59:28 »
What about the rest of the system? Should I pull out everything or there is some stuff that has to be left behind to please the ECU?
12
Omega General Help / SAI...again...
« on: 02 October 2011, 21:09:15 »
Hello.
I've been searching the net and this forum (similar forums also) but I couldn't find any "How to" step by step guide for SAI removal on X20XEV.
Is there any for Omegas or at least for X20XEV engine? I've read some stuff on how to fully remove it on other engines but I ain't that sure with the "translation" to X20XEV engine.
Thanks.
I've been searching the net and this forum (similar forums also) but I couldn't find any "How to" step by step guide for SAI removal on X20XEV.
Is there any for Omegas or at least for X20XEV engine? I've read some stuff on how to fully remove it on other engines but I ain't that sure with the "translation" to X20XEV engine.
Thanks.
13
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Rear window blinds and sunroof problem/question
« on: 01 July 2010, 22:05:34 »
tried that one out no use. we suspect that the controler chip is faulty (motorola). will test out that one tomorrow and we will see. keep you posted
14
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Rear window blinds and sunroof problem/question
« on: 01 July 2010, 08:57:29 »
thanks, will try that one out.
15
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Rear window blinds and sunroof problem/question
« on: 29 June 2010, 22:05:12 »
Opel Omega 2.0 16v LPG '97 (CD package)
Since I bought my Omega (used one) sunroof and rear window blinds aint working.
After some poking arround and testing some stuff a conclusion was drawn that in sunroof case control box (on the roof under the sunroof motor) is faulty and that should be fixed/verified soon.
Rear window blinds left. Also after some poking arround it seems that the control box at the blinds motor is ok. I have 12v supply but I aint getting the puls to trigger the controll box.
Anyhow, to shorten my story: Has anyone had simmilar problems? Are there any faulty joints, spots, parts that tend to go wild (or on vacation) after some time (or after some events) considering my case (rear window blinds and sunroof)? Explanation on how the whole system works and if there are some tiny catches and details to focus my attention on?
Thank you in advance!
Cheers!
Since I bought my Omega (used one) sunroof and rear window blinds aint working.
After some poking arround and testing some stuff a conclusion was drawn that in sunroof case control box (on the roof under the sunroof motor) is faulty and that should be fixed/verified soon.
Rear window blinds left. Also after some poking arround it seems that the control box at the blinds motor is ok. I have 12v supply but I aint getting the puls to trigger the controll box.
Anyhow, to shorten my story: Has anyone had simmilar problems? Are there any faulty joints, spots, parts that tend to go wild (or on vacation) after some time (or after some events) considering my case (rear window blinds and sunroof)? Explanation on how the whole system works and if there are some tiny catches and details to focus my attention on?
Thank you in advance!
Cheers!