29)Without moving the crank from 60deg BTDC, remove the cambelt kit, and remove the cambelt tensioner/top idler plate from the RH cylinder head.
30)Using a 24mm open ended spanner on the front of each camshaft, hold each of the cams firmly in place, whilst loosening their retaining bolts. Mark on the pulleys, which one is attached to which cam. Now fully remove the bolts, and place the cam sprockets clear of the vehicle.
31)Now remove the rear cambelt cover, by undoing the retaining bolts.
32)Now we remove the camshafts. Please note, it is VITALLY IMPORTANT, to record which cam bearing shell is in which position on the head. Due to the way they are manufactured, they must be refitted in their original positions. From memory, they are usually marked from L1 to L10 on the drivers side, and R1 to R10 on the passenger side.
33)Once you are confident you have recorded the correct position of each shell, work one camshaft at a time. Evenly and equally slacken all of the bolts, so the camshaft rises from it’s lifters equally. Remove all of the caps, and remove the camshafts from the heads. Please also note which camshaft is in which position (RH exhaust, RH inlet, LH inlet, LH exhaust). Due to the oil, don’t use stickers, tags with a bit of string is better).
34)Working from underneath the vehicle, unclip both oxygen sensor plugs, (to avoid strain) and remove each down pipe from its respective exhaust manifold. There will be 2 15mm nuts on each. I find a deep reach 15mm (spark plug) socket works well, on a long ½ drive extension bar. You will also need to remove the 13mm bolt securing the cats to the gearbox bracket, to allow you to remove the exhausts downwards. Position the exhausts down away from the manifolds.
35)Working at the back of the engine (from above) remove the 2 torx bolts holding the rear coolant transfer pipe onto the rear of the engine, and remove any other supporting bolts/brackets. Manoeuvre this transfer pipe out of the engine bay. It is necessary to remove this, so that the driver’s side exhaust manifold clears when the head is removed.
36)It is desirable that the followers are re-fitted in the order they were removed. Therefore, mark up 24 bags for the followers. Using a little suction device, or very carefully with a pair of long nosed pliers, remove the followers from the heads.
37)Slacken and remove all of the head bolts using a T55 socket, working from the inside out, one bank at a time.
38)You are now in a position to lift the heads off. With the aid of a helper, very carefully lift each cylinder head, with the manifold still attached. Remove and discard the used head gaskets from the block. If unharmed, retain the head gasket locating dowels for re-fitting, there should be two per bank.
Cylinder Head cleaning / checking
This process will need to be carried out on both cylinder heads:
1)First stage, is to remove the manifold (and dis pack in case of left hand side) from the head. Soak the nuts in plus gas prior to doing this. If any studs snap, it will be necessary to re-thread the holes.
2)Check that there is no warpage of the cylinder head. Place a perfect straight edge across ALL angles you can think of across the head mating surface, and see if you can inset a feeler gauge, or see any discrepancies. If in ANY doubt, get it checked out by a machine shop. Skimming the V6 heads is best avoided if at all possible, a) because it will alter compression ratio, and b) because of the design of the V6, if there is a discrepancy in the amount skimmed off each head, the inlet may not be completely airtight, and cause problems.
3)Very thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of the head, both to the block, and exhaust manifold.
4)Flatten and clean the mating surface of the exhaust manifold using wet and dry paper.
5)Refit the exhaust manifolds. Always use a new genuine gasket, and preferably use new studs for refitting. Torque the studs evenly. If one stud is loose/broken, you WILL get an exhaust blow!
6)While the hydraulic followers are removed, take the opportunity to service them, using the excellent guide in this maintenance section by Marks DTM Calib.
7)Should you wish to progress and rebuild the head / fit new stem seals, see my guide to arrive shortly.
Guide to cylinder head refitting.
1) You may wish, while it is easily accessible, to re-seal the oil cooler plate. This will be covered shortly in another of my guides I am working on.
2) Thoroughly clean the cylinder block mating surfaces and remove any debris/fluid from the bores. Refit the head gasket locating dowels into the block, and position the head gaskets onto the block.
3) Lower the right hand head into place FIRST, and loosely fit all of the head bolts.
4) Refit the rear coolant transfer pipe to the block, using a new o-ring, and a small dab of sealant if you desire. (Helps keep O ring in place!)