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1

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: CCR 2006 Problem!!!!!!!!!!

« on: 29 March 2008, 22:12:22 »

Could the switch at the back of the inside cd changer unit be knackered?

Might be worth stripping down and running on a bench if you are ok with electronic type of repairs?  I certainly would if i had the problem.

Cheers

2

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: CCR 2006 mute wire

« on: 30 March 2008, 22:29:09 »

http://www.ccpip.org/800/service/Connctn.html#CCRt700

Managed to sus it out with this diagram.  I make it out to me pin C13 and it seems to give 'message' on the screen permanently, with or without a call...  Does this tally up with you TB?

Cheers for your time  

3

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: CCR 2006 mute wire

« on: 30 March 2008, 21:14:53 »

Just pulled the head unit out and can't find pin 34... unless i count up from pin 1 of the power block and then onto pin 16 of the audio block, so then id be starting the 3rd block at pin 17 to 36.

Would i be counting the pins correctly this way?

Cheers

4

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: CCR 2006 mute wire

« on: 30 March 2008, 20:55:31 »

Pin 34 Black 0.5mm

The Vx pin numbering varies from that diag often posted on here, the aux in is 35 and 36, so 34 is next to them

HTH

Thanks TB,

I'll just pop out and try it...

5

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: CCR 2006 mute wire

« on: 30 March 2008, 00:28:50 »

Seems i was wrong!  Every time i make a call the light on the cd go out and the audio from teh radio does not mute.

I have a sneaky feeling that the audio mute wire is (or should) be connected to the other connector next tot he speaker connector block.  does anyone have a pinout for this at all?

Cheers

6

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: CCR 2006 mute wire

« on: 29 March 2008, 23:19:08 »

I may have found the resource i was after...

http://www.akirwan.freeserve.co.uk/akhow2/ice.rtf

Looks like i was correct with pin 6 (triangle inside square)

Cheers

7

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / CCR 2006 mute wire

« on: 29 March 2008, 22:03:19 »

Hi Guys,

Just installing a Sony bluetooth carkit into my wife's corsa, the last owner installed a ccr2006 so i suppose it's sort of linked to an omega.

Anyway i can't seem to locate the audio mute cable in the corsa's wire loom to the radio, so i removed the radio to investigate.  I can see that one of the wires on the power block does not have wire going to it.  The one that is missing has symbol of a triangle inside a square.  I'm guessing this is the mute wire, which GM though wasn't needed on a poxy corsa.

Please can anyone confirm this is the mute cable?

Cheers

8

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: What does this light mean

« on: 03 October 2007, 20:13:54 »

I need to read and clear an error on my 02 plate 2.6, is this odb2 at all?

I know i live nr MDTM and he's already cleared them once but i want to clear them myself if i can.

I can see some of the 3rd party readers can easily touch £80, do i need to splash out so much or can i get away with a cheaper one?

Cheers

9

Omega General Help / Re: 2.2 with LPG issues, opinions needed.

« on: 20 June 2009, 23:20:24 »

Do you mean head skimming?

I had similar faut on my 2.0 LPG, was lumpy on LPG at first and after a while it started to effect petrol too.  It turned out to be HT leads.  LPG tends highlight HT issues more than petrol.

You car has coil per plug, so maybe the coil pack it not functioning correctly?

10

Omega General Help / Re: help - LPG - length of injection hose?

« on: 28 June 2009, 23:15:12 »

Agree, mine were all 10cm exactly.  Also it might be worth noting that all of the injector nozzles should be in the same position for each input.

11

Omega General Help / owww god, have i got an oil cooler banjo leak too?

« on: 23 June 2009, 21:10:08 »

Well i've just replaced my crank seal thinking this was causing oil to leak all over my sump... but i've just read in another thread that 'Darth Loo-knee' has seen a few 2.6 with leaky oil cooler banjo bolts... oh err

As i have most of the engine stripped, is it worth removing the inlet bridge to inspect?  if the banjo was to fail, do they leak really badly all over the front of the engine and onto the crank seal area?

I might just bite the bullet now while i can...

12

Omega General Help / Re: It Lives

« on: 21 June 2009, 20:46:03 »

Nice one fella, not an easy job!

13

Omega General Help / Re: Intermittent misfire - 2.6 help please

« on: 20 June 2009, 23:14:03 »

No leads on a 2.6 or 3.2

DITTO, beat me to it by 6 mins 

14

Omega General Help / Re: Crak seal leak

« on: 21 June 2009, 20:24:26 »

Finally installed the crank seal today.  After a thorough cleanup i lubricated the new seal and then drove it in with a special tool on loan from Mark.  Once the tool had done its work, i used a large socket to drive it in until flush.

Now onto the good stuff - re-installation of the crank bolt! My dad and i whipped up a wooden wedge to make this task a tad easier, see pic attached:



With the wooden tools in place we found it very easy to torque up the crank bolt, far easier than i first though as i was expecting it to be a royal pain in the rectum.

Next step was the timing belt and as most of you may know this isn't my party trick 

Anyhow, as i am well versed in timing belt installation i managed to install and time up the belt in good time. however i do have one burning question:

As i am installing a used belt, can anyone advise on which marking i should use on the tension pulley?  I have already lined it up with the marking which i made proir to removal, so the belt is tensioned up exactly as it was before.  Woould this be a good move?



Please let me know your thoughts.

Regards

15

Omega General Help / Re: Crak seal leak

« on: 20 June 2009, 22:50:33 »

Hi chaps,

Have been to visit Mark and Pete in Nottm today - Thanks for setting me up with the kit for this guys, i can't tell you how i underestimated this job.  I never would have thought about the spacer or metal locking plate!  I cant thank you enough, without this kit the job would be very nearly impossible!

As soon as i got home i started the crank seal job.  I had already removed most of the parts needed to do this job, so i was already 99% ready.  I have attached a pic of the oily mess i was faced with before i started!



So after removing the timing belt and crank sprocket, i started 'operation cleanup'.  I used some stuff called GUNK and brushed this all over the lower part of block, once washed off the block was looking like new!



I then removed the oil seal by punching a small hole in the seal and using a self-tapper pull it out.  I noticed that the metal spacer was scored around one end, i guess this is what may have caused the leak in the first place? I trust I can just turn this around once cleaned up with some emery cloth.

Now i wasn't entirely sure that the crank seal was the cause of the leak.  It did have traces of oil on the surface of the seal, but nothing major.  Saying that the alloy metal plate below was covered with gunky oil, even the small hole was slightly obstructed!  Oil was all over the sump, from one side of the block to the other.  I also took a look at the cam seals through the cam sprockets and i couldn't see anything out of the ordinary, looked lubricated but not wet or leaking.

At this point I downed tools as I was unsure on how to refit the seal.  Do I need to lubricate both sides of the seal?  My dad tells me that the block side of the seal may need a lick of sealant, which his Volvo manual recommends for his car.  I have the pressing in tool on loan from Mark, so do I need to smash it in place or push it in lightly?

Please let me know your thoughts.

Regards
Marc

PS: Like my handy crank lock support? Who said this was a two man job?