Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: robson on 14 March 2021, 21:21:51
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To replace the front wheel bearings is it just a couple of bearings or a complete hub change and a scaffold bar. What sort of cost is a hub. :y
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If you don't have the skills and tools plus access to pullers and a press then used stub axles are a quick solution for an MOT pass.
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-OMEGA-CARLTON-SENATOR-FRONT-WHEEL-BEARING-HUB-/324197090682
Starter for ten.
Nut is 320 million Nm :D so be prepared to put some effort in ;)
Hardest part his removing the inner race from the stub axle. But basically:
Wheel off.
Bearing cap off.
Wheel on.
Loosen nut.
Wheel off.
Caliper and disc off.
Remove nut.
Pull off hub.
Fit new hub.
Fit new nut and tighten as much as possible.
Refit disc and caliper.
Wheel on.
Tighten nut with torque wrench/scaffold breaker :D
Wheel off.
Bearing cap on.
Wheel on.
Torques is given in Haynes. Without looking, the number is 320, but I can't remember if it's Nm or lb/ft... Net result is BFT either way ::)
I know my torque wrench only goes to 300, and haven't had a wheel fall off yet :-X
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If you don't have the skills and tools plus access to pullers and a press then used stub axles are a quick solution for an MOT pass.
How do you figure that out? It's an hour each side including lunch. Swapping the knuckle is more bolts, more effort and requires geometry set up...
Not to mention that the new hub is cheaper than a second hand knuckle ???
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If you don't have the skills and tools plus access to pullers and a press then used stub axles are a quick solution for an MOT pass.
Eh? Just buy the bearing complete, only one bolt when you have removed all the standard stuff
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My hub cost me 26 sheckles off eBay.
Use a bearing pull if at all possible.
2 hours job including replacing the front pads and grinding a slight lip off the disc :y
Enjoy :)
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If you don't have the skills and tools plus access to pullers and a press then used stub axles are a quick solution for an MOT pass.
How do you figure that out? It's an hour each side including lunch. Swapping the knuckle is more bolts, more effort and requires geometry set up...
Not to mention that the new hub is cheaper than a second hand knuckle ???
OK, I see :-[ the hub and bearing are available as an assembly rather than trying to remove and replace just the bearing :)
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If you don't have the skills and tools plus access to pullers and a press then used stub axles are a quick solution for an MOT pass.
one of the advantages of the bearing not being a serviceable part is that the job requires nothing more than large tools. Even if that wasn't the case, I've only ever used a press for double bearings if the upright is easy to remove. The generic bearing puller set makes light work of doing them in place on driven wheels.
Taper bearing races are easy to change with a hammer and drift. The original race can be reduced in diameter if you're worried about knocking the new one in straight, but I've never bothered.
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If you don't have the skills and tools plus access to pullers and a press then used stub axles are a quick solution for an MOT pass.
How do you figure that out? It's an hour each side including lunch. Swapping the knuckle is more bolts, more effort and requires geometry set up...
Not to mention that the new hub is cheaper than a second hand knuckle ???
OK, I see :-[ the hub and bearing are available as an assembly rather than trying to remove and replace just the bearing :)
;) You've been spoiled by those new fangled bolt on hubs :D
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I attempted this . . .and completed with no problems . Just a bit of brute strength needed and follow the Docs list of instructions :y
There is a guide in maintenance I believe
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If you don't have the skills and tools plus access to pullers and a press then used stub axles are a quick solution for an MOT pass.
How do you figure that out? It's an hour each side including lunch. Swapping the knuckle is more bolts, more effort and requires geometry set up...
Not to mention that the new hub is cheaper than a second hand knuckle ???
OK, I see :-[ the hub and bearing are available as an assembly rather than trying to remove and replace just the bearing :)
The bearing is part & parcel of the hub, not a separate item
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I have to remove the hub on one of mine in the not too distant future, to either replace or repair the brake shield which is corroded. Some may argue that the brake shield can be dispensed with, although I would prefer to retain it.
Can a hub assembly be satisfactorily removed to do the repair, and then refitted, or does any part of the hub / bearing get damaged in its removal making it not suitable to be refitted?
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Just taken both fronts off my uprights, nut is defo tight. 3/4 drive socket and bar with a 6ft tube worked nice!! tap with a hammer and the both slipped off.
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I have to remove the hub on one of mine in the not too distant future, to either replace or repair the brake shield which is corroded. Some may argue that the brake shield can be dispensed with, although I would prefer to retain it.
Can a hub assembly be satisfactorily removed to do the repair, and then refitted, or does any part of the hub / bearing get damaged in its removal making it not suitable to be refitted?
I was always lucky on the Carlton (same setup) - the complete hub&bearing would slide of the stub axle in one piece - must have done it a dozen times with no problems. I've got a box full of removed bearings that I can re-use if I have to.
However, the last time I did it on the Omega, the inboard race was firmly fixed to the stub axle, so I had to lever the assembly off, and the bearing broke, leaving the race jammed on the axle. I then had to use bearing splitters/pullers to get the wretched thing off. Obviously that renders the removed hub scrap.
No way of knowing if you'll be lucky or not. If I were you, and you're going to be doing both sides I'd buy one new one just in-case it goes wrong. If everything goes Ok then you'll have a spare should your have future MOT problems. If it goes wrong, then you've got the bits to fix it straight away.
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I have to remove the hub on one of mine in the not too distant future, to either replace or repair the brake shield which is corroded. Some may argue that the brake shield can be dispensed with, although I would prefer to retain it.
Can a hub assembly be satisfactorily removed to do the repair, and then refitted, or does any part of the hub / bearing get damaged in its removal making it not suitable to be refitted?
I've done half a dozen or so... All but one left the inner race behind, which effectively renders it U/S
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Ok, thanks. Fingers crossed. I have two new VX hubs in just in case.