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1

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: CDC code

« on: 30 May 2007, 16:03:19 »

Hi Guys

can anyone tell me if i order a new carpass will it have the code for the cd changer on it ?

I had to disconnect the battery because of an alarm fault and when reconnected, the radio/tape/phone all work fine but the cdc says it is safe.

thanks

Tony

Hi Tony, provided the CD changer was factory fit, and it hasn't been changed, the code will be on the car pass. If you have a couple of dealers in the area get prices off them all, as the cost can vary dealer to dealer.

Unless you are sure the unit is the one installed originally, then it may be worth pulling the unit for the audio unit serial number and they will check this.  (And can give you the right code for the right unit!)

Jon

2

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: audio system

« on: 30 May 2007, 16:01:25 »

i have exactly the same radio and it moves to exactly the same as yours, 87.5  why?

If 2 radios are doing exactly the same thing I would put it down to a bug in the radio rather than a fault that has developed. Maybe the memory gets corrupted sometimes when it shuts down so it does back to the default frequency. 87.5 is right at the bottom of the FM band so maybe that's plausible. Thing is, the other memories, radio programs, etc. are still retained. It's an odd one.

Kevin

Make that 3 - mine has done this a couple of times. Not enough to be annoying (and less so now that it is being driven more).  I wondered if it was the steering wheel sensor track not being perfectly clean but I havent been able to nail it down to this.  Havent really done much investigating as its not done it lately...  

Jon

3

Omega General Help / Re: Anyone done *rear* suspension geometry?

« on: 14 June 2007, 13:11:29 »

The threaded ends insert about 2-3 inch into the rods its easy to see how they seize if they are assembled without grease.
Remove the complete tie rod and clamp the centre section in a vice.
Free off one lock nut, lube the thread then re-tighten so that it just touches...this will be your guide to keep the length about correct.
Now heat the sleeve part with a blowlamp, you will probably need lots of heat, use a good fitting spanner or stilsons to try turning the rod. Once it moves, check that the lock nut stays in place then completely remove the rod. Wire brush the threads and throughly grease the sleeve internal threads then screw the rod back in to just touch the lock nut as before. If the threads are still tight, unscrew again, re-clean and re-grease.
Repeat on the other end.
Try to stop the heat getting to the ball joint or bush by wrapping in a damp cloth.
Replace the rod and tighten the locknuts.
Your alignment guy will now be very happy.

Same procedure applies to the front track rods, but you have to count the number of turns as you unscrew the ends on these.

Great description.... basis for a How-To?  I should have taken photos...  

4

Omega General Help / Re: Anyone done *rear* suspension geometry?

« on: 14 June 2007, 11:56:37 »

Cheers guys for all the comments/suggestions.  Job done  

It was a %£^%£%$ of a job though - the threads were well and truly rusted into the bores.   Couldnt have possibly done that without removing the bar to the bench to get it in the vice.  Lots of heat, wire brushing, penetrating oil and patience was the order of the day!   Threads needed a good cleanup in the bench wire wheel - didnt have a tap and die that fitted that thread size/pitch which was no surprise...  

But threads and nuts run smoothly now all the way with plenty of copaslip.  Back to the geometry place to get it set up now...

One thought - are the rear toe / camber settings standard to the range?  Wonder if it is worth posting them in here?  Ive only got the -99 Haynes for the values but Im guessing that my 99- facelift is the same.  Hopefully the geometry place have the right settings on their system.

Jon

5

Omega General Help / Anyone done *rear* suspension geometry?

« on: 13 June 2007, 16:17:45 »

Took my 'meega down to get all the geometry checked out and discovered that the rear toe-in is out (if you see what I mean!) but the adjuster bars are siezed.  £60 a side for new ones so Im going to see if I can unseize them.  

Looks like the best way will be to split the ball joint and remove the entire tie-rod bar to the bench before working on it in the vice with heat/penetrating oil etc.  Just wondered if anyone had encountered this before and found a good way of sorting the problem?

Cheers

Jon

6

Omega General Help / Re: TC Card

« on: 01 August 2007, 22:45:05 »

Card through ABS took 3 days!  
No password though

ABS do not give out their TC website logon, didn't think MIG did.

Jimbob - you have a PM on its way

TB Could I have a PM too ?  

7

Omega General Help / Re: TC Card

« on: 31 July 2007, 23:43:25 »

Hi all,

How do you apply for a TC card, I have 4 vauxhall's in my family and this would help no end

I joined Autobahnstormers, card arrived 4 days later and Ive been saving money ever since.*

Works very well.

Jon

* If spending a fortune at Vx counts as 'saving money'  

8

Omega General Help / Re: Another one refusing to start

« on: 29 July 2007, 23:10:35 »

Well, TC card arrived yesterday so I'll be off to the VX garage tomorrow lunchtime for a new sensor. Was going to get a spare anyway but it looks like it beat me to it.

Will root around for a decent laptop with a real serial port as well, so I can check for a 19.

Thanks for the help.

Kevin

Sounds like you had your code 19, but courtesy OOF ;-)

Hope you get it fixed OK and check out the rewiring route to help avoid it going iffy again.  Cable needs to be away from sources of heat.  See maint guide.  Jon

9

Omega General Help / Re: Another one refusing to start

« on: 28 July 2007, 20:06:58 »

Parked up for a hour or so today and on my return the car wouldn't start

Cranked over normally, just wouldn't fire. Tried a floored throttle and such like. Nothing. Not a hint of wanting to fire at all. Opened bonnet and pulled a few connectors about to check for loose ones, checked all fuses, generally tried to look like I had an idea why it was doing this to me

SWMBO said it sounded funny when cranking so I told her to crank it while I listened under the bonnet, convinced it had sounded quite normal. Damned thing started first time for her

Played up a little next time I stopped but started on second or third attempt.

No EML showing and it runs normally once started.

I'm thinking it's either the crank sensor or that the transponder was not un locking the immobiliser (interference, maybe?). Would a code 19 light the EML? Might have to find a laptop that'll run cheapo tech2 and check just in case.

Anyone got any other ideas?

Kevin

Hello Kevin,

What you describe is exactly the same as my experience when I had the crank sensor fail on me, and yes code 19 was read...  It didnt light my EML when this happened.

Jon

10

Omega General Help / Re: towbar snags

« on: 28 July 2007, 19:22:15 »

On the saloon, there is a multi pin connector hidden away behind the trim panel that runs across the rear of the boot. I would think there must be one somewhere on the estate, looking at the, very unclear, diagrams it may be behind left side trim panel.
Hopefully, someone has already done an estate.

Dont know if your estate is the same as mine (mine is 2.5 facelift) but if it was the wiring connectors were behind the jack in the centre rear part of the spare tyre well.  There was a vauxhall multiplug on there which I cut off when I saw a) the price of the mating half and b) someone had used those awful scotchlocks (X25XE has good advice there!) which had made a mess of the wiring.  I made up a new multiplug connector and these are easy enough to acquire.

Hope this helps

Jon

11

Omega General Help / Re: Air con packed up

« on: 18 July 2007, 22:48:11 »

** Usual care warnings about poking about near engines when they are running!! **

A very rudimentary check, but does the AC pipework get cold with the engine running with AC on and ECO off?  It ought to get cold enough for moisture to condense on the outside of the pipe which you can then easily see.  This ought to tell you if the system is basically functional...

12

Omega General Help / Re: MPG & Performance

« on: 22 July 2007, 18:43:25 »

You almost definately have an airleak......where about in Nottingham are you?

Thanks for the reply, I'm near Long Eaton.

How would I source the air leak??

I'd be interested in any suggestions for leak tracing this too. Im sure my '99 2.5 should do better than 17-18 round town.  Trouble is, nothing is obviously hissing away...  

I believe using a cut-off piec of hose and putting it to your ear as you trace it around the engine is a fairly good method

Good idea, but Ive not been able to find anything with that approach, shame...  

13

Omega General Help / Re: MPG & Performance

« on: 22 July 2007, 18:39:12 »

You almost definately have an airleak......where about in Nottingham are you?

Thanks for the reply, I'm near Long Eaton.

How would I source the air leak??

I'd be interested in any suggestions for leak tracing this too. Im sure my '99 2.5 should do better than 17-18 round town.  Trouble is, nothing is obviously hissing away...  

14

Omega General Help / Re: What does your 2.5v6 do to a full tank.....

« on: 16 July 2007, 20:42:56 »

Hi Guys
         I have a 2.5v6 elite est (auto) and on a full tank I just get about 350 miles......is this about normal ?  What do you get from a full tank ?  Also with the engine running there seems to be a hiss from the rear top of the engine......any ideas on where this may be coming from ?  
  Sorry to cram in the questions........

What sort of mileage is this?  Round town?  Mixed?  Motorway?

Jon

15

Omega General Help / Re: air con probs?

« on: 15 July 2007, 22:23:34 »

Hi there,

Any knocking noise from the AC when switched on is a good reason not to run it until you have identified the problem - Matchless is spot on with the advice.  Its very unlikely to simply be a low refrigerant problem.

Might be worth making sure that fan blades etc are OK and not hitting anything.

Jon