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[Doctor Gollum]

Thermostat whilst the top is apart and water pump when you do the cambelt 

[Diamond Black Geezer]

Id say so aye, though the stat is a weep but the water pump is a drip, so probably going to whip the pump off today, gobbo it up with grey sealent, see if that cures it. banking on that it's just the larger o-ring seal, rather than the actual internal seal. If it doesnt cure it, I've lost nothing, and will replace whole unit when timing's done, whenever that is. 

[Doctor Gollum]

That won't work for the waterpump so save your time

[Nick W]

Id say so aye, though the stat is a weep but the water pump is a drip, so probably going to whip the pump off today, gobbo it up with grey sealent, see if that cures it. banking on that it's just the larger o-ring seal, rather than the actual internal seal. If it doesnt cure it, I've lost nothing, and will replace whole unit when timing's done, whenever that is. 

dismantling an O-ring joint just to add sealant is a textbook example of futile optimism. Fit new O-rings as a minimum, with a little of whatever sealant you favour. I know that shouldn't be necessary,  but on a 20 year old car practical is more important than theory.


You know how much I hate messing about, so I wouldfit a new pump.

[Diamond Black Geezer]

My only worry is car needs to be assembled, shakedown ready for her, tuesday. If I order one now they're saying here weds.

I do appreciate your points. I want to stick genuine GM pump on, with new o rings, correct sealant etc, as per textbook, I always try to do the best job I can. But I'm against time. My next thought is run with the leak, and whenever the pump gets here, soon as I have a day or two (time for sealant to dry, another time issue) then get it done then...just costs me coolant. Ugh.

[biggriffin]

My only worry is car needs to be assembled, shakedown ready for her, tuesday. If I order one now they're saying here weds.

I do appreciate your points. I want to stick genuine GM pump on, with new o rings, correct sealant etc, as per textbook, I always try to do the best job I can. But I'm against time. My next thought is run with the leak, and whenever the pump gets here, soon as I have a day or two (time for sealant to dry, another time issue) then get it done then...just costs me coolant. Ugh.

 So your going to remove the w/pump, chuck some sealent on it, then next week remove it all again and fit a new one,..  why not just get all the parts you require, then do it all as one job. Or is that me being practical and overthinking.

[Diamond Black Geezer]

No. I agree, it's stupid. Depends if you need the car back on the road or not. Which I do.

I've got one on order, it's theoretically here Monday midday, so if u do the camcovers this weekend, water pump and other leaks Monday, 24hrs to dry Tuesday then car back on road weds. 

And I'm at work all of those days too! 

[Nick W]

No. I agree, it's stupid. Depends if you need the car back on the road or not. Which I do.

I've got one on order, it's theoretically here Monday midday, so if u do the camcovers this weekend, water pump and other leaks Monday, 24hrs to dry Tuesday then car back on road weds. 

By the time you've put the rest of the car back together, the sealant will have gone off. If it doesn't, use one that does.


You're not filling a 100mm long by 5mm gap with the stuff to replace a thick gasket(this is standard procedure on old V8 inlet manifolds), but adding a trace to aid the O-ring.


Alternatively, if the leaks are as small as you mentioned just keep filling it up with water(lack of anti-freeze's long term attributes won't matter for a few days) until you have ALL the parts and the time.

[biggriffin]

Tube of this. Does everything.
 https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-general-purpose-silicone-sealant-black-310ml/2279h

[Nick W]

Tube of this. Does everything.
 https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-general-purpose-silicone-sealant-black-310ml/2279h

Agreed. While I generally prefer to use black because it looks better, clear IS better for temperatures because of its lack of pigment.  That was advice from an Ilmor engine builder; who said their engines had head gaskets, and every other joint was sealed with Dow Corning 797 clear. The same stuff I was buying by the gross for the window company I worked for at the time.

[Enceladus]

Whatever about Dow Corning, black or grey high temp RTV should be available at any local factor. In the case of the water pump a new o-ring on clean mating surfaces should seal by itself. So all you're seeking to achieve is to stick the o-ring in position on the pump so that it doesn't get displaced and pinched when you bolt it up.

[dave the builder]

whatever sealant you use it won't cure a leak if it's leaking from the bearing or weep hole
and that's where pumps tend to leak
might be masked and running down ,making it look like it's the mating seal
i'd just top it up,carry water to top it up with, check the level every time you drive the car and fit a new pump as soon as possible

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

This ^. 

[biggriffin]

Tube of this. Does everything.
 https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-general-purpose-silicone-sealant-black-310ml/2279h

Agreed. While I generally prefer to use black because it looks better, clear IS better for temperatures because of its lack of pigment.  That was advice from an Ilmor engine builder; who said their engines had head gaskets, and every other joint was sealed with Dow Corning 797 clear. The same stuff I was buying by the gross for the window company I worked for at the time.

 I agree with you 100% sir,  The gentleman who instructed me about sealant was also an engine builder, from Northamptonshire, but for the other company, Cosworth.   

 

[Diamond Black Geezer]

Well....

Still doing it 

Changed waterpump, left 24hrs for sealant to go odd. Rocker cover gaskets done as discovered oil in the NS plugwells. (wells were dry when I did the spark plugs a few months ago. So caught in time)
Nipped up jubbly clip, that's cured the coolant leak up front, as has doing the waterpump.
Car was run for 30mins to get all airlocks out of coolant.
Going for test drive later, see if she quietens down any.

Sounds like a rasp, or grating, becomes audible at approx 2krpm and 'loud' at about 3krpm.