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[Sir Tigger KC]

I'm going to install laminate flooring in a lounge and after getting some scary quotes for supply and fit, I'm going to have a go! 

Now here's the thing! The variety and choice of boards and underlay is bewildering...    Everyone I've spoken to so far has warned me off of the cheapest B&Q type stuff as apparently it won't last. 

It will be laid on a concrete floor that isn't perfectly even so I've decided to get a 5mm underlay to soak up some of the lumps, but I can't decide which out of 2 boards to get, one is 7mm and the other is 8mm.  I prefer the colour of the 7mm but will the 8mm last longer? 

Someone has also said that the 7mm board will last longer as it will be more flexible on the uneven floor....    So does size matter?! 

Decisions decisions!!! Any thoughts peeps??   

[ahodgie]

If its fitted well all joins corners cuts ect ect it should last well just say its got a 10 yr guarantee your taste or current fashion would prob change before then
Go with what you like take your time fitting it and get another pair of hands to help if you can

[Rods2]

Pretty straightforward to fit. Make sure you put some polythene under the 5mm underlay as any moisture will buckle the boards.

I always remove the skirting boards and replace if nailed or if they have been glued with use no nails glue you can normally reuse them. IMO it is much neater doing this than using the edge beading.

Leave a 6mm gap all the way round for expansion.

They do last a reasonable length of time, but are easily water damaged, especially from wet shoes etc, so I would recommend the green waterproof for a hall, bathrooms, cloakrooms and kitchens. If you drop something heavy it can damage the board and heavy traffic with shoes or cat and dog claws can over a period of time scratch the plastic top layer.

If you have radiator pipes that go into the floor, then drill a hole bigger than the pipe to allow an expansion gap and then cut from the end of the board to the hole at a 30 degree angle on both sides. you can then push and glue the piece in tight with almost unnoticeable joints. You can get pipe covers to hide the expansion area. But last time I did this I made my own where I couldn't get any to exactly colour match, with an offcut and a hole saw to cut out a washer and then carefully removing most of the wood to leave the laminate, and then cutting from the centre hole to the outside, this was flexible enough to go over the pipe.

IME it is not as hard wearing or damage proof as a solid wood floor and where with a solid one you can sand it and reseal with a laminate it is time to replace it. But there again solid wood flooring is considerably more expensive.

The modern no-glue self-clamping joints are so much easier than the old straight joints where you had to use ratchet strap clamps and glue them.

[MR MISTER]

Glued v click lock: I found out when I submitted a claim....glued = building, click lock = contents.

[Sir Tigger KC]

Glued v click lock: I found out when I submitted a claim....glued = building, click lock = contents.

Ah! That's interesting!  As it's going in a rental I only have buildings insurance.  So what about carpets? I've always assumed that carpets would be fixtures and fittings and therefore covered! 

[omegod]

The click stuff is so much easier to work with. I used Krono which has a little plastic strip to do the clicky bit, knee pads are a saviour too