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Messages - johnnydog

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1
The whole switch with the window buttons has to be removed in one piece. It is easier if the door card is unclipped so that the connector plug (which is the locking type) can be accessed properly to release it from the switch.
I have tried to release the four tabs to lift the switch out whilst the door card is in situ, but usually the switch comes apart, and there isn't much wriggle room for the connector to be released, so I find it easier to loosen the door card for the time it takes.

2
Amazing kit. Prob too much for me. I wish I had started with Milwaukee, but I have a huge collection of Ryobi and they fit my needs (plus an army of batteries  8) ).

I've had one for a while. Amazing is not the word I'd use: adequate for occasional DIY use would be more appropriate. Just like the other tools in the range, and is exactly what I use them for. Although I do need to buy a couple of new batteries.

Depending on which actual model of the M18 range you have of course....
I also have an old Dewalt 18v impact wrench. Extremely sturdy and well built, but the batteries were getting tired, and went flat quickly whilst in use. A brand new bigger AH replacement battery transformed it, and whilst nowhere near as powerful as the Milwaukee, it certainly is good for stubborn wheel nut removal and a good number of other tasks.

3
Milwaukee do an 18v cordless in their M18 range that delivers 1356nm of tightening torque. It also delivers upto 1898nm of nut loosening torque when required. Fantastic piece of kit, and if you shop around it can be bought with a charger, case and two batteries for less than 395. You have to check you are ordering the correct one though - there are similar models / nos that look the same but aren't as powerful...but they are one hell of a cordless impact wrench.

4
Thanks for your positive comments and opinion Graham on the work you have had done. Nigel Langs have been talked about for geo set ups in the North West previously, so are definately worth sounding out beforehand to see if their opinions are same as they were in the past under previous ownership. Glad your car has been transformed.

5
Just one question Graham - did they use the recommended settings given on here (which I believe they also are aware of) relative to caster / camber/ toe etc, or did they just go off the red and green displays on the Hunter? It's just that I am proposing to use one of their agents in the North West, as Chesham us a fair way to go for me.

6
Omega General Help / Re: Rear brake discs
« on: 14 September 2021, 20:15:49 »
A check on Ebay shows a set of 9195058 listed in the US, although there's no picture or description (bit crap really), so I'd check before purchase exactly what you'd be receiving for your 35.86 (plus any possible import taxes??). One way of getting the vented pins and springs I suppose, with OE pads thrown in as well, rather than aftermarket.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GM-PAD-KIT-RR-DISC-BRK-W-FITT-9195058-GM-9195058-/313432646202?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

7
Omega General Help / Re: Rear brake discs
« on: 14 September 2021, 19:56:12 »
GM# 9195055 (Opel KAT 05-42-801) are the pad retaining pins for vented discs and are 86mm long. Pins for solid discs are 74mm.
GM# 9195056 (Opel KAT 05-42-913) are the anti-rattle cross springs for vented discs and are 56mm across the horizontal span. Solid disc cross springs are 48mm across the horizontal span. And that's because although the pads are the same the vented disc is 20mm thick vs 12mm for the solid.

There is no, and never was, any GM fitting kit for vented discs that included these pins and springs. Only the individual parts.
Likewise there are no 3rd party aftermarket fitting kits for vented discs. The ones advertised are all incorrect. They're for solid rear disc Omega Bs or they're Vectra/Calibra/Carlton/Omega A parts.

You need to find a Vauxhall dealer with a parts department who can place a special order in Germany. Payment upfront, no returns unless faulty and will take about a week, if the pins and springs are still available. Don't expect much change out of 50.

Your existing pins might clean up and be reusable. The cross springs usually corrode at the brass rivet and fall apart.

The last couple of kits I got were from Germany so worth checking on the usual Ebay.de, but I wouldnt expect much luck.

8
Omega General Help / Re: Rear brake discs
« on: 14 September 2021, 19:32:27 »
GM# 9195055 (Opel KAT 05-42-801) are the pad retaining pins for vented discs and are 86mm long. Pins for solid discs are 74mm.
GM# 9195056 (Opel KAT 05-42-913) are the anti-rattle cross springs for vented discs and are 56mm across the horizontal span. Solid disc cross springs are 48mm across the horizontal span. And that's because although the pads are the same the vented disc is 20mm thick vs 12mm for the solid.

There is no, and never was, any GM fitting kit for vented discs that included these pins and springs. Only the individual parts.
Likewise there are no 3rd party aftermarket fitting kits for vented discs. The ones advertised are all incorrect. They're for solid rear disc Omega Bs or they're Vectra/Calibra/Carlton/Omega A parts.

You need to find a Vauxhall dealer with a parts department who can place a special order in Germany. Payment upfront, no returns unless faulty and will take about a week, if the pins and springs are still available. Don't expect much change out of 50.

Your existing pins might clean up and be reusable. The cross springs usually corrode at the brass rivet and fall apart.


I beg to differ slightly on this point.
Rear brake pad kits 9195058 were supplied with vented pins and springs included, but have been unavailable for some considerable time. The last set I got from Vauxhall only had 3 pads in the box, so I got them for a ridiculously cheap price as they couldn't sell them, but I bought them purely for the pins / springs. Why only 3 pads, but I wasn't complaining. I have managed to get several other sets of 9195058 kits since, all old stock from Vauxhall, all with pins and springs included.
I don't think there are any kits left now anywhere.

9
General Discussion Area / Re: Word Association.
« on: 14 September 2021, 07:47:09 »
News

10
Omega General Help / Re: Spark plugs
« on: 13 September 2021, 14:08:47 »
Dispite the given tightening torque, or 1/4 or 1/8th turns, most competant (home) mechanics are able to assess when they are correctly tightened just by feel. This applies to a lot of fastenings on any car, although certain engine components should and have to be be tightened using a torque wrench to the book figures.

11
Omega General Help / Re: Spark plugs
« on: 12 September 2021, 14:44:35 »
After the thread starts, turn them by hand (using fingers with a piece of hose if deep in the head which also reduces any chance of cross threading) until the sealing washer contacts, then a further 1/4 turn with the spark plug spanner or socket. They don't need to to be particularly tight, especially in an alloy head.

12
General Discussion Area / Re: Advice Technics separates
« on: 07 September 2021, 16:35:14 »
I had a similar set up - a Trio (which later became Kenwood) deck, amp, twin cassettes, and I had added a Sony CD player to it, all stacking. Great quality sound but very bulky. I could have put it on Ebay, but a local HiFi specialist bought it off me. Gave me 50 for it (cost a great deal more than that when I bought it new!) He said there is a market for them but relative limited. Maybe a bit more of an audience out there now with the increased desire for vinyl, but for me I was just getting rid of something that had outlived its usefullness.

13
Omega General Help / Re: window switch sticky
« on: 03 September 2021, 19:25:56 »
I think you are right regarding womens handcreams. Have you ever noticied large areas of fingerprint and handprints markings on metallic paint finishes on modern cars, mainly around the  door frames, top of the door skins below the windows, and any area where a hand would contact? This seems to be more prevalent on ladies cars, or on the side where the lady would normally sit. Not that I'm blaming them, of course  :D, but they are extremely difficult to remove even by machine polishing, and they return again afterwards. I'm convinced it has to be something in the oils etc in handcreams or makeup.

14
Omega General Help / Re: POLLEN FILTER
« on: 03 September 2021, 12:51:04 »
I have also checked up on the part numbers - as Enceladus says, they are correct for the carbon filter for later cars with climate.
With a further discount code applied - you can't go wrong at 2.39 each for collection at store!
It would have been rude not to order one (well, a few actually...)

15
Omega General Help / Re: window switch sticky
« on: 03 September 2021, 12:05:11 »
Just resurrecting this topic, as it obviously is an issue on all Omegas (and other modern vehicles for that matter), and any second hand switch / button assemblies are likely to have gone the same way.
I have just put one of my Omegas back on the road after a long period of being laid up. The driver and passenger window switches, plus the boot release button had gone extremely sticky - almost gooey in fact. They weren't like that prior to the car being laid up, and as it wasn't being used, it obviously wasn't sticky fingers that had caused it - it was most likely a combination of of sunlight and general degrading of the 'soft touch' coating.
I tried Ambersill Tar Spot remover followed by Ambersill Foaming Upholstery cleaner, as recommended, which had no effect on the sticky surface whatsoever.  The problem is that harsh cleaners can remove the white symbol on the surface if not extremely careful. On the boot button the symbol can easily be damaged, so I decided to use a product called 'Non Sticky Sticky Stuff Remover', which is primarily intended for label residue etc, and although it took a lot of rubbing and a lot of patience, the boot switch has now come up a treat, and the symbol is undamaged.
On the window switch, I tried all sorts - the above Non Sticky Stuff remover, White Spirit, Electrical Switch cleaner, Solvent cleaner, Ambersill upholstery cleaner, WD40, even brake cleaner, but none of the above worked or even sniffed at the residue.
In the end, similarly to Nail Varnish remover that has been suggested previously, I used General Purpose thinners, which removed the sticky soft touch coating with some careful but vigorous rubbing, leaving the hard plastic finish underneath. It is a satin finish, but almost smooth, but looks excellent. I must stress that you have to be very very careful with the areas between the individual switches, and the L/R mirror control button, or the thinners / Nail Varnish remover will take the black colour off the edges, and the symbol will be lost if the thinners comes into contact with it. I used a cotton bud for the difficult to reach areas, and the cloth wrapped round a thin screwdriver to apply the required effort to remove the coating.
I did actually loose a little bit of the edge of the circular mirror control button, but some matt black blackboard paint with a fine brush on the affected area and it is now hardly noticeable.
Hope that helps anyone with sticky switches!   

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