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Topics - johnnydog

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Don't know whether this has been talked about previously, but for those who may be interested, an ex Police 3.2 Special manual saloon is up for auction on Saturday 5th June at Mathewsons, North Yorkshire (Bangers and Cash fame). NU04NBF, ex TVP with 149k recorded. Currently liveried in battenburg and has working Police auxillaries.  Seems half decent, bit of rust appearing on r/n/s wheelarch, and looks like it has had replacement early Elite leather seats, but overall I've seen far worse......
Just thought it was worth the heads up for anyone interested in that sort of thing  :y

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Duff V6 GM Crank Sensor!
« on: 17 April 2021, 17:52:14 »
Well, so much for buying a 'genuine Vauxhall crankshaft sensor from a genuine Vauxhall dealer that you have to genuinely walk into...' My 2.6 began being intermittently reluctant to fire recently, although would crank forever. No EML, so I changed the crank sensor with brand new boxed (sealed) genuine GM sensor bought from Vauxhall. After fitting, it cranked and fired virtually straight way. Happy Days, I thought. Turned off, and after putting the tools away, decided to go for a test drive. Same symptoms  >:( - would crank for ever and a day, but not fire. Checked sensor was fitted in the block square, removed it to make sure no contaminants had got onto it, refitted it, but still nothing. Decided to remove a known used Bosch sensor from a 3.2 which was running well before being laid up for spares (rotten front chassis rails) a few years ago. Fitted it, and it has started everytime. After several test runs, all is well, starting first turn everytime.
I realise sometimes parts are faulty, but you wouldn't expect it from a genuine Vauxhall part bought from a genuine Vauxhall dealer that you .......etc know what I'm saying.
I heard that at some point there was a faulty batch, but this may be fiction?

General Discussion Area / Tidy 33k 53 plate 2.2 CDX sold at BCA
« on: 28 March 2021, 20:16:49 »
A very tidy '53 reg 2.2 CDX auto saloon YD53LUY with only 33,942 miles was sold at BCA Preston on Friday. Star silver, and 12 stamp main dealer service history, MOT to Nov. '21.  Slight scuff on one bumper corner, and a small localised but heavy rust blob on the rear offside wheel arch, and a cloth interior, but looked a very genuine car. Got 4 figures surprisingly - be interesting to see where it turns up and at what asking price....
Good ones seem to be still attracting strong interest with buyers...

General Car Chat / Introduction of E10 unleaded fuel
« on: 02 March 2021, 23:36:35 »
Just read a FBHVC (Federation of British Historic Vehicle Clubs) release, relative to classic car use in the UK. This could also possibly be relative to Vauxhall Omegas....
The Dept of Transport are looking to legislate the introduction of E10 fuel (10% ethanol content) in September 2021, which will become the standard for unleaded fuel in the UK, but continuing to make the current Super Unleaded 97+ octane fuels renamed as a Super E5 'Protection' grade fuel available (with E5 ethanol content as opposed to E10) for older and classic vehicles, no doubt at a premium cost. Garages that currently sell 95 and Super will have to provide both fuels, but with exemptions in remote areas such the Highlands to continue selling E5 95 octane. They are proposing to continue the 'Protection' grade for at least 5 years, but no doubt it will continue for longer due to the numbers of older and classic vehicles on the road.
There is a link to a Gov. website to check which vehicles are compatible with the E10 fuels - apparently the only Vauxhalls listed as NOT compatible being (quote) 'models with the 2.2 litre direct injection petrol engine, motor code Z22YH (Vectra, Signum and Zafira)'.
So, theoretically, the Omega should be able to run on E10, but if the Protection E5 grade is available locally, depending on the cost, I will continue to use that in my Omegas. Ethanol is horrible stuff in petrol, affecting rubber and various metal components in fuel systems, so the more I can avoid its use in mine, the better.
Another 'under the radar' way to get rid of older cars.
In 2000, they promised the contiuing supply of leaded fuel for classic car owners, albeit at a premium price, but that was relatively short lived, and it soon disappeared from forecourts. Dispite additives, there has no real substitute for unleaded fuel, and the same could happen down the line with E5.....

Just in case any one was in the market for what appears to be a near mint 3.2 Elite saloon.........
Wondered if anyone noticed the 2003 Star Silver 3.2 Elite saloon for sale on Ebay a few days ago - 72k, Vauxhall service history, an immaculate interior and it certainly looked a beautiful car with only two owners....for 4,495.
Registration - KJ03WXS.
Was being sold by Beacon Car Sales, of Nork, Banstead in Surrey, who on their advert claim to Trading Standards Approved, and buyers can 'Buy with Confidence'!
However, it was ended at some point yesterday - I presumed then it may have been sold.
Although a strong price, for a straight car with one could presume, little to do, if in the market for one, it was maybe worth a look as good ones are getting thin on the ground...

However, whilst confined to barracks, I checked the DVLA and MOT history of it.
Last MOT in December 2018 at 146,015 miles :o
Thinking maybe a inputting error of the mileage (they do occur....),
Sept 17 153k
Sept 16 141k
Sept 15 135k
Sept 14 125k etc etc
In Jan 2010 the mileage was the same figure as advertised this week - 72k.

So, hopefully, it hasn't been bought by anyone on here, but if it has, then I know where I would be heading.....immediately.
Now I'm not saying that Beacon Car Sales are dodgy, but they haven't done their homework. And somewhere along the line, it's looking like the car has had a decent 'haircut', unless VOSA have made some drastic errors, which I doubt.....
Is in my watched items, so not sure whether still accessible, but the item no. was 154299421550

2003 Omega 3.2 V6 Elite for sale - BEWARE!!

Hope no one has stolen foul of this seemingly immaculate Omega...

Omega General Help / Red radiator drain plug / tap
« on: 01 September 2020, 22:59:03 »
Having just done a coolant drain and flush, the original red radiator drain tap was looking a bit weathered and brittle, plus discoloured through age. I removed it, and the washer below the head was quite badly corroded.
The red drain tap and washer are NLS from Vauxhall, and both have been superceeded by a black version (not requiring a washer under the head). Both my local VX dealers have no stock of the black version, and have given 'several days' to supply one. Been through previous topics on here and some suggest the black version doesn't seal as well as the original red one.
To get the car back mobile, I have bought a replacement red one from ECP, but it doesn't come with a replacement washer. It is exactly the same dimensions as the original VX version I removed.
Might seem like a small problem, but to get the correct amount of compression on the O rings to seal the drain without damaging them, it requires the washer under the head to get the correct spacing.
The original appears to be a steel washer with grooves from the centre to the outside edge, but is badly rusted so I don't want to reuse it. As the original washer is NLS, what is the consensus about a replacement washer? Steel, aluminium, fibre, or copper? The coolant sealing is theoretically done by the O rings, so is the purpose of the washer like a lock washer or just for correct positioning of the O rings to create the coolant seal when shut?
I can't believe a simple washer is the subject of this topic ::), but I'd rather get it right first time, rather than risk having a leak and loosing the relatively 'expensive' GM coolant unnessecarily.
So what type of washer is thought to be the best for this purpose?

As the title - anyone got a new (or old stock) unused genuine GM LH front wishbone (90576788) that they would be willing to sell or trade?
Checking my spare parts, I have two new genuine GM RH wishbones (90576789) packaged with GM labels, but ideally would like to make a pair, by buying a new LH (even two!) or swapping a new RH for a new LH.
I would like genuine GM to make a matched pair/s.

Omega General Help / Pollen filter carrier / tray removal
« on: 11 May 2020, 14:43:07 »
Is there an easy way to remove the tray that the pollen filter sits in in order to gain better access to the area around the passenger scuttle drain to remove some surface rust and do preventative painting to avoid any possible corrosion holes there in the future?
There is no obvious way to do it, unless you have remove of the back of it first from behind the glove box?

Whilst attempting to locate a water leak into the drivers footwell, I noticed that the lower rubber moulding between the base of the screen and the scuttle was loose, albeit mainly on the passenger side. Removed the scuttle and found the hard plastic seat / retainer (90460336) was loose and could be moved away from the bottom edge of the screen, and didn't appear to 'grip' the edge of the glass.
Has anyone had any success in using some form of adhesive sealant in small dabs to keep it in place? The lower seat / retainer is just one piece. Can it be removed whilst the screen is in situ? Being hard plastic, it gets brittle over time, and appears to be held in at either end by a small metal clip visible at the end of the moulding.
Whether the loose seat making the rubber moulding loose is contributing, I'm not certain, but the drivers footwell is like a lake, even after this nice spell of weather, but the car has been standing for a while. It isnt coolant, definitely rain water. Currently got the carpet and foam up, just trying to find a source of the leak.
Any thoughts please?

For those interested, as the title CLEARLY states, there is a 3.2 MV6 coming up for sale by auction at BCA Blackbushe on the 1st November. It looks pretty clean / genuine but obviously needs to be seen in the flesh.....

Brief details -
03 reg,
Black, with black leather interior.
68, 493 WARRANTED miles with partial main dealer service history.
MOT until 29th March 2020.

I have posted this for info only in case any OOFers may be interested - I DO NOT OWN THIS CAR AND HAVE NO KNOWLEDGE OF IT OTHER THAN KNOWING IT IS UP FOR AUCTION THIS COMING FRIDAY  !!
Please read the above carefully and don't ask me how much I want for it because I don't own it...!!
If you want more info please visit the BCA website.
Auction starts at 9.30am.....

For those who may be interested, there is a 52 reg Nocturno blue Omega 3.2 MV6 estate up for sale at BCA Auctions at Paddock Wood on Tuesday 22nd October. 133k, NCDC 2013 with colour sat nav, black leather, and no eml lights on the dash on tick over.
Not presented well at the moment, and needs a bath, but it still may be a cheap enough car.....
Auction starts at 9.30am....

If you need to justify to your other half why you need to keep your Omega, read this interesting article by the Daily Express, but only if you have a V6 version apparently - the a 3.2 Elite preferably....

General Car Chat / Renault Trafic brake problem - any ideas?
« on: 05 May 2017, 16:28:10 »
My son has a 2008 Renault Trafic 2 2.0 DCI 115 van, which has developed a strange brake problem. These are the symptoms as he has described them.
He left work, and said he felt the brakes seemed to be binding slightly. Joined the motorway, and after approx five miles, said the brakes were binding so much that he had to drop down a couple of gears to keep moving. Came off at the next exit (approx. 5 miles from joining), and the brakes were smoking. Stopped and then tried to set off, but the brakes were binding so much that it was difficult to even pull away. He said there was smoke coming from all four wheels, but excessively from the front nearside.
When I went to the van later that day, it had cooled down, and the brakes had released, although extremely spongy, presumably due to the brake fluid having boiled, they worked ok.
An examination revealed that the there had obviously been tremendous heat at the fns wheel - the dust seals on the caliper pistons had melted, the bottom balljoint boot had melted, the front nearside pad material had parted company with the backing plate, and had left a heavy deposit of fraction pad material on the disc face. The plastic hub cap had even melted around the wheel bolts! The disc itself looked like it had been red hot as it was a red colour (not rust) around the edge.
As smoke was coming from all wheels, but excessively from the fns, I assume it isn't just a fault with one caliper sticking, especially as they released when cold.
A diagnostic check revealed the following codes - PO571 Brake Signal, P 2299 Accelerator pedal position sensor circuit, ABS 95 ECU supply voltage too low.
It obviously needs new pads; I will be changing the front flexi hoses, the bottom ball joint, fitting new seals etc to the caliper (or a good known used unit).
I wondered whether there was a fault with the master cylinder, or servo that may cause the binding brakes?
Would a 'brake signal' fault cause these issues, or is it more related to the brake lights?
He also threw in that that the brakes were binding slightly several weeks ago, but nothing like this instance, and when he came back to it two or three hours later, they had released and have been alright up until this last instance.
Any ideas or thoughts would be greatly appreciated!!

Omega General Help / Removal of boot release button / switch
« on: 25 September 2016, 09:36:58 »
I have noticed that the boot release button on the central console on my 3.2 saloon has gone very 'sticky'. I have read this is quite common when the rubberised finish deteriorates. Cleaning it has no effect at all.
How do you remove the switch - does it involve taking the NCDC radio out first?
Better still, can the cover (the bit that has gone sticky) be removed and replaced if I can get a better one from a breaker? I have removed the ashtray, and with a mirror can see one (of probably two) yellow lugs by the cover that I assume need releasing.
Haven't asked as yet, but anyone know if the complete switch (or cover) is still available from VX?

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Phillips CCR 2006 radio oddity
« on: 22 September 2016, 20:50:56 »
My 2003 2.6 Elite has the Phillips CCR 2006 fitted. Over the last few weeks, when I start the car, and it had previously had the radio mode selected, it starts playing the CD's of its own accord. I can press the tuner button and it changes to the radio, but if I switch off and leave the car, when I return and start the car, it 'defaults' back to the CD's.
It's the original radio for the car from new.
Any thoughts?

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