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Topics - johnnydog

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1
General Car Chat / A very close call...
« on: 19 June 2022, 12:17:10 »
Decided to go out in the Omega to collect a chinese last night. Parked on the main road nearby, then walked away from the Omega towards the Chinese. Heard the sound an engine revving hard, followed by the screech of tyres as a nearby car set off and accelerating with its engine screaming in presumably first gear. Turned to look to see what was going on, and saw a Vauxhall Crosland mount the footpath behind the Omega, but thankfully it swerved round it, back onto the road and swerved into a nearby side street, colliding heavily with a parked Seat Leon, which was shunted into a Vauxhall Corsa. Extensive damage was caused to the Crosland and Leon. The Crosland ended up across the road, the driver got out and sat on a chair in the small front garden of a nearby house :o. I hung around as no one else had witnessed it, or could say who the driver was. The 'after the event witnesses' soon appeared. Funny how people who have no idea how to handle a situation such as this want to get involved....
Thankfully, no one was hurt. But how close my Omega came to being written off - too close for comfort including myself too for that matter, as I was on the footpath behind my car when it all started. I would have been truely gutted if he had smacked into my car - it was that close.......
I've got my own thoughts on the reasons why the driver was driving in that manner, but that is for the Police to sort out.
At least the Omega lives for another day..... :y

2
Wondering if anyone has a spare retaining strap that supports the fuse box trim cover under the steering column in good / serviceable condition? Mine has broken in 2 places >:(
Part no. 90508685
Suitable remuneration of course :y
PM me if you can help me out.
TIA.

3
General Discussion Area / Best ever Ebay ad....!
« on: 09 April 2022, 23:00:11 »
Best ever Ebay listing - if you fancy a bit of a titter, read the description (if only in the memory of 'Dave'...) ;D

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154933141682?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=jWZXRwBMT6W&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=GCEcaYdASwi&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

4
My starting woes are continuing.....
On my 2.6, my intermittant starting has continued. Two crank sensors, a fuel pump relay, and I thought the 2nd crank sensor had sorted it. My thoughts then went to the immobiliser. Intermittantly, it would just crank but not fire as previously. Maybe coincidence, but using the spare key seemed to rectify the issue. If using the original key, it occasionally wouldnt start, but if I tried the spare, it generally started ok. Until today.
Tried the original key, and it just cranked. Tried the spare and it fired up, as it has done previously. On my 5 mile trip, on the motorway at around 70mph, it suddenly 'died' momentarily, not a misfire, but similar to the engine cutting out - the EML light came on briefly, and the engine immediately fired again, as normal, and after a couple of seconds the EML went out.
Left the engine running at my destination for around 10 minutes (didn't want to switch off...), and then set off - over the next mile, the same symptoms happened again 4 times around 30 mph - the engine cutting out momentarily, and the EML coming on for a second or so, before firing up again - until I slowed to stop at a junction. The engine cut out completely as I came to a stop. Took the key out of ignition, locked it, unlocked it, tried starting the engine and it fired. It then ran perfectly for the 5 miles home.
Checked the codes -
ABS traction control 2 faults
1 - Canbus not communicating with ECM - U2105-4
2 - Engine torque reduction incorrect signal - C0241-4

Antitheft 2 codes
125 present
128 Not present ( an old code?)

Cleared the codes, the antitheft codes went, but it then read 'Unable to communicate with ECM'
At this point when the ignition was on, the spanner light and EML were flashing alternately very quickly, not brightly, but quite visible. Tried to crank the engine, and it fired, and ran for about a second before cutting out.
With the ignition on, the throttle body was clicking loudly quite merrily, and this was  continuous whilst the ignition was switched on. Switched off, and back on again, and the clicking continued...
I have read topics 121307.0 3.2 Elite No Start 5th Feb 2014, and 16628.0 3.2 Won't Start, but I just wondered if anyone had any thoughts on this one.....?  It's driving me nuts....



5
Omega General Help / Cam cover gaskets - V6 changeover point
« on: 27 December 2021, 21:01:23 »
The earlier two piece per bank V6 cam cover gaskets are GM part number 90511451, whilst the later one piece gasket per bank on later V6 models is GM part number 55351456.
Can anyone confirm either the engine no. or approx year of the change in the gasket? I am looking at doing the cam cover gaskets on my 2002 3.2, and wondered which type is likely to be fitted, or do all 2.6 / 3.2 engines have the later one piece gasket?
I would like to get the correct ones prior to starting the job (rather than hearing a suggestion to get the later one piece and cutting the two link sections between them should the car have the two piece fitted :-X).
TIA

6
The central locking including the boot release on my 2002 3.2 elite is currently inoperative using either key fob.
It starts with both keys, but when trying to lock it or open the boot with either key, nothing. It will lock and deadlock using the key in the drivers door, and then sets the alarm correctly (the flashes on the centre console display), and then the alarm sounds when unlocking it using the key until the engine is started. I have had both keys checked - the usual key I use is sending out a signal on all buttons (although the led doesn't illuminate on the fob); the spare is not sending any signal out when any button is pressed but the led on this fob illuminates. They both have new batteries, and the resyncing procedure hasnt done anything.
The boot releases using the interior button, and the central locking operates when locking the car using the drivers door button manually via the back door, and then unlocks ok using the key in the door lock. The powersounder battery is brand new and has eliminated the periodic middle of the night alarm activations and chirpping, but prior to it being replaced, the car could be locked using the key remote. How long the key has actally been inoperative, I'm not certain because I usually leave it unlocked at home when not in use to reduce battery drain down.
A car locksmith checked for fault codes with the following showing - trunk sw, code 32.
With electricals not being my 'chosen subject', has anyone ever had this issue, or may possibly be able to give me any pointers? I've tried to give as much info as I can to assist you more 'knowledgables'...
TIA


7
Don't know whether this has been talked about previously, but for those who may be interested, an ex Police 3.2 Special manual saloon is up for auction on Saturday 5th June at Mathewsons, North Yorkshire (Bangers and Cash fame). NU04NBF, ex TVP with 149k recorded. Currently liveried in battenburg and has working Police auxillaries.  Seems half decent, bit of rust appearing on r/n/s wheelarch, and looks like it has had replacement early Elite leather seats, but overall I've seen far worse......
Just thought it was worth the heads up for anyone interested in that sort of thing  :y

https://www.mathewsons.co.uk/product/2004-vauxhall-omega-v6-special-police-colourscurrent-v5-present-paperwork-includes-mot-certificates-the-vendor-has-kindly-supplied-the-following-informationthe-car-was-on-the-thames-valley-pol/

8
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Duff V6 GM Crank Sensor!
« on: 17 April 2021, 17:52:14 »
Well, so much for buying a 'genuine Vauxhall crankshaft sensor from a genuine Vauxhall dealer that you have to genuinely walk into...' My 2.6 began being intermittently reluctant to fire recently, although would crank forever. No EML, so I changed the crank sensor with brand new boxed (sealed) genuine GM sensor bought from Vauxhall. After fitting, it cranked and fired virtually straight way. Happy Days, I thought. Turned off, and after putting the tools away, decided to go for a test drive. Same symptoms  >:( - would crank for ever and a day, but not fire. Checked sensor was fitted in the block square, removed it to make sure no contaminants had got onto it, refitted it, but still nothing. Decided to remove a known used Bosch sensor from a 3.2 which was running well before being laid up for spares (rotten front chassis rails) a few years ago. Fitted it, and it has started everytime. After several test runs, all is well, starting first turn everytime.
I realise sometimes parts are faulty, but you wouldn't expect it from a genuine Vauxhall part bought from a genuine Vauxhall dealer that you .......etc etc............you know what I'm saying.
I heard that at some point there was a faulty batch, but this may be fiction?

9
General Discussion Area / Tidy 33k 53 plate 2.2 CDX sold at BCA
« on: 28 March 2021, 20:16:49 »
A very tidy '53 reg 2.2 CDX auto saloon YD53LUY with only 33,942 miles was sold at BCA Preston on Friday. Star silver, and 12 stamp main dealer service history, MOT to Nov. '21.  Slight scuff on one bumper corner, and a small localised but heavy rust blob on the rear offside wheel arch, and a cloth interior, but looked a very genuine car. Got 4 figures surprisingly - be interesting to see where it turns up and at what asking price....
Good ones seem to be still attracting strong interest with buyers...

10
General Car Chat / Introduction of E10 unleaded fuel
« on: 02 March 2021, 23:36:35 »
Just read a FBHVC (Federation of British Historic Vehicle Clubs) release, relative to classic car use in the UK. This could also possibly be relative to Vauxhall Omegas....
The Dept of Transport are looking to legislate the introduction of E10 fuel (10% ethanol content) in September 2021, which will become the standard for unleaded fuel in the UK, but continuing to make the current Super Unleaded 97+ octane fuels renamed as a Super E5 'Protection' grade fuel available (with E5 ethanol content as opposed to E10) for older and classic vehicles, no doubt at a premium cost. Garages that currently sell 95 and Super will have to provide both fuels, but with exemptions in remote areas such the Highlands to continue selling E5 95 octane. They are proposing to continue the 'Protection' grade for at least 5 years, but no doubt it will continue for longer due to the numbers of older and classic vehicles on the road.
There is a link to a Gov. website to check which vehicles are compatible with the E10 fuels - apparently the only Vauxhalls listed as NOT compatible being (quote) 'models with the 2.2 litre direct injection petrol engine, motor code Z22YH (Vectra, Signum and Zafira)'.
So, theoretically, the Omega should be able to run on E10, but if the Protection E5 grade is available locally, depending on the cost, I will continue to use that in my Omegas. Ethanol is horrible stuff in petrol, affecting rubber and various metal components in fuel systems, so the more I can avoid its use in mine, the better.
Another 'under the radar' way to get rid of older cars.
In 2000, they promised the contiuing supply of leaded fuel for classic car owners, albeit at a premium price, but that was relatively short lived, and it soon disappeared from forecourts. Dispite additives, there has no real substitute for unleaded fuel, and the same could happen down the line with E5.....

11
Just in case any one was in the market for what appears to be a near mint 3.2 Elite saloon.........
Wondered if anyone noticed the 2003 Star Silver 3.2 Elite saloon for sale on Ebay a few days ago - 72k, Vauxhall service history, an immaculate interior and it certainly looked a beautiful car with only two owners....for 4,495.
Registration - KJ03WXS.
Was being sold by Beacon Car Sales, of Nork, Banstead in Surrey, who on their advert claim to Trading Standards Approved, and buyers can 'Buy with Confidence'!
However, it was ended at some point yesterday - I presumed then it may have been sold.
Although a strong price, for a straight car with one could presume, little to do, if in the market for one, it was maybe worth a look as good ones are getting thin on the ground...

However, whilst confined to barracks, I checked the DVLA and MOT history of it.
Last MOT in December 2018 at 146,015 miles :o
Thinking maybe a inputting error of the mileage (they do occur....),
Sept 17 153k
Sept 16 141k
Sept 15 135k
Sept 14 125k etc etc
In Jan 2010 the mileage was the same figure as advertised this week - 72k.

So, hopefully, it hasn't been bought by anyone on here, but if it has, then I know where I would be heading.....immediately.
Now I'm not saying that Beacon Car Sales are dodgy, but they haven't done their homework. And somewhere along the line, it's looking like the car has had a decent 'haircut', unless VOSA have made some drastic errors, which I doubt.....
Is in my watched items, so not sure whether still accessible, but the item no. was 154299421550

2003 Omega 3.2 V6 Elite for sale - BEWARE!!

Hope no one has stolen foul of this seemingly immaculate Omega...

12
Omega General Help / Red radiator drain plug / tap
« on: 01 September 2020, 22:59:03 »
Having just done a coolant drain and flush, the original red radiator drain tap was looking a bit weathered and brittle, plus discoloured through age. I removed it, and the washer below the head was quite badly corroded.
The red drain tap and washer are NLS from Vauxhall, and both have been superceeded by a black version (not requiring a washer under the head). Both my local VX dealers have no stock of the black version, and have given 'several days' to supply one. Been through previous topics on here and some suggest the black version doesn't seal as well as the original red one.
To get the car back mobile, I have bought a replacement red one from ECP, but it doesn't come with a replacement washer. It is exactly the same dimensions as the original VX version I removed.
Might seem like a small problem, but to get the correct amount of compression on the O rings to seal the drain without damaging them, it requires the washer under the head to get the correct spacing.
The original appears to be a steel washer with grooves from the centre to the outside edge, but is badly rusted so I don't want to reuse it. As the original washer is NLS, what is the consensus about a replacement washer? Steel, aluminium, fibre, or copper? The coolant sealing is theoretically done by the O rings, so is the purpose of the washer like a lock washer or just for correct positioning of the O rings to create the coolant seal when shut?
I can't believe a simple washer is the subject of this topic ::), but I'd rather get it right first time, rather than risk having a leak and loosing the relatively 'expensive' GM coolant unnessecarily.
So what type of washer is thought to be the best for this purpose?
TIA...
 

13
As the title - anyone got a new (or old stock) unused genuine GM LH front wishbone (90576788) that they would be willing to sell or trade?
Checking my spare parts, I have two new genuine GM RH wishbones (90576789) packaged with GM labels, but ideally would like to make a pair, by buying a new LH (even two!) or swapping a new RH for a new LH.
I would like genuine GM to make a matched pair/s.
TIA.

14
Omega General Help / Pollen filter carrier / tray removal
« on: 11 May 2020, 14:43:07 »
Is there an easy way to remove the tray that the pollen filter sits in in order to gain better access to the area around the passenger scuttle drain to remove some surface rust and do preventative painting to avoid any possible corrosion holes there in the future?
There is no obvious way to do it, unless you have remove of the back of it first from behind the glove box?

15
Whilst attempting to locate a water leak into the drivers footwell, I noticed that the lower rubber moulding between the base of the screen and the scuttle was loose, albeit mainly on the passenger side. Removed the scuttle and found the hard plastic seat / retainer (90460336) was loose and could be moved away from the bottom edge of the screen, and didn't appear to 'grip' the edge of the glass.
Has anyone had any success in using some form of adhesive sealant in small dabs to keep it in place? The lower seat / retainer is just one piece. Can it be removed whilst the screen is in situ? Being hard plastic, it gets brittle over time, and appears to be held in at either end by a small metal clip visible at the end of the moulding.
Whether the loose seat making the rubber moulding loose is contributing, I'm not certain, but the drivers footwell is like a lake, even after this nice spell of weather, but the car has been standing for a while. It isnt coolant, definitely rain water. Currently got the carpet and foam up, just trying to find a source of the leak.
Any thoughts please?


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