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Messages - johnnydog

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1531
Essex .


Okay the date has been and gone, but isn't anything happening up north ever ?

I'd be up for a Northern meet if anyone is interested? :y

1532
Sent you a PM re the springs. Thanks.

1533
General Car Chat / Re: Vans.... any experts?
« on: 20 January 2018, 12:08:56 »
Having bought several vans for different people, the size is down to your intended use for it. LWB for the extra length, high roof if you want to stand up straight in it, or carry tall furniture etc.
My son has a LWB Renault Trafic (same as the Vivaro, or Primastar just different badging) which he uses for his carpet fitting work - this was the only van in that size range that could accommodate a 4m roll of carpet, without going to the LWB Crafter / Sprinter size, albeit the 'bolt in' bulkhead panel and front passenger seat had to be removed with a gizmo to make the van think the seatbelt warning was still wired in! Nothing else had the length capacity.
My daughter has a LWB high roof VW Crafter, which is a great van; exceptional length and height - I am always borrowing it! Nice to drive, although can be a little gutless with a full load - the identically bodied Mercedes Sprinter has a more powerful engine, but tends to command more money.
Another friend has another VW LWB Crafter high roof for his work, and likes it.
There are some good purchases to had at auction in van sales, if you are prepared to hunt out the good from the bad. Don't forget the majority of sales at both auctions and dealers have VAT added on to the sale / displayed sale price, which on a seemingly good deal, results in it looking costly.
I have found ex Enterprise Rental vans very well maintained, and generally in good order overall, unlike builders vans, or maintenance vans which seem to be worked hard for their money.
Most vans tend to suffer on the drivers seat if the van has been used for deliveries - the continuous in and out of the driver knackers the sides of the seat base and upright. If the drivers seat is ok in any van you look at, then it's a reasonable indication that it has been used on longer runs rather than stop start deliveries etc.
Usual pointers apply as with any vehicle you buy as to its bodily condition / mechanical condition etc - and if in doubt take someone who wouldn't look at it through 'rose tinted' glasses and would give a honest opinion.

1534
Omega General Help / Re: Smell of hot oil when engine is warming up
« on: 20 January 2018, 11:39:03 »
A few days after you asked the question, but the wiring harness is an obstacle, but not difficult to overcome. You basically need to remove the wiring harness tray cover, lift up the harness and tie it up out of the way sufficiently to allow access, remove the tray itself, and you are in there.
Just be careful with the small plastic tabs on the harness tray cover - they break very easily.

1535
Looks absolutely horrendous. Criminal what some people do to the beautiful original lines of the Omega. Wouldn't touch it with a barge pole......

1536
Omega General Help / Re: Rear suspension problems
« on: 02 January 2018, 12:21:29 »
I bought a pair of Suplex rear springs from an auto factors a couple of years ago. Although identically labelled and marked, when placed side by side, one was about an inch shorter than the other. I returned them and got a matching pair which I fitted.
Probably a bit difficult to check this now as the new springs have been fitted, but worth considering if all other checks fail to find the cause.

1537
I think that is a 'stock' photo on the listing or one off the internet. I don't think it is of the actual car for sale. Anyone genuinely interested would be best asking for additional photos of the car in its current state.

1538
Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / Re: Wanted: Spare wheels
« on: 01 January 2018, 14:22:19 »
Although you are now no doubt sorted, but for what it's worth, not all the 15" tyres fitted as spares were the same. There were different speed and load ratings, depending on the wheel and tyre size of the vehicle it was a spare for.
The details of the tyre size it was a replacement for are displayed on the label in the wheel centre of the steel spare.
As a spare it wouldn't be vitally important as a 'get you home' wheel, but if two were being fitted on the same axle for continuous use as possibly winter wheels, ideally they should be of the same speed and load rating.

1539
Omega General Help / Re: Where have all the 3.2’s gone?
« on: 28 December 2017, 23:50:34 »
Me too......5 at the last count - admittedly though, two are for breaking.....! ::)

1540
General Car Chat / Re: explain please.
« on: 18 December 2017, 16:52:45 »
I have driven a lot of Audi's with the CVT / Multitronic setups, and in my opinion, they are a horrible gearbox. I think they were just fitted to the two wheel versions - gearboxes in Quattro models responded totally differently. CVT gearboxes are like driving a dodgem! They feel very unresponsive, and the lack of a noticeable gear change doesn't give the impression that the car is doing anything when accelerating. I bought a few Audi's 10-15 years ago, and I avoided the CVT transmission because of the poor driving experience it offered (in my opinion!)
It is also imperative that the gearbox oil is changed religiously at 40k, otherwise the gearbox will soon need major surgery. This oil change isn't specifically highlighted in the service schedule, so was frequently missed if being done outside the Audi network, but when they were still in warranty, Audi were rejecting many warranty claims for gearbox issues if this oil change had not been done at 40k.
The Audi tiptronic is a good solid box, and drives like a conventional gearbox (like an Omega with a positive / distinct change). The S tronic box has lightening quick changes, which are still noticeable (a combination of the engine note, and the quick flick of the rev counter!) and I think is more suited to performance models.
I think the symptoms you are describing are typical of the CVT box, unfortunately.

1541
Omega General Help / Re: Locking wheel nut problem
« on: 07 December 2017, 13:07:05 »
Most 'sensible' people put the wheel bolts they've removed in the tray in the plastic wheel bolt box with the locking key.
I presume you have looked? :D
Then again it depends whether the previous / first owner was sensible.....
I will guarantee that if you go to any scrappy, and have a look on the ground near any Vauxhall, you will find more than enough for your needs. They are invariably just left where they fell when the wheels are removed.
They have a weight stamped on the head - just make sure they are all the same as your existing bolts.
Failing that, I'm sure most OOFers on here will have a surplus of them.
PM me if you are struggling.....

1542
Omega General Help / Re: Locking wheel nut problem
« on: 06 December 2017, 23:33:48 »
Judging by all the methods of removal outlined here, is there any point in having locking wheel nuts? The great unwashed will already know this and will borrow your wheels in a trice if they want them.....

Ron.

This might have been the case years ago when alloy wheels were a bit of a rarity and were only fitted to more prestige vehicles, but these days most cars have alloys, and usually only base models have steel wheels.
I don't think that alloy wheel theft is an issue today unless your vehicle is some exotic vehicle with rare or particularly expensive wheels.
This was another reason for getting rid of the locking wheel nuts on my Omegas.

1543
General Car Chat / Re: Rumble in the Jungle!!
« on: 05 December 2017, 20:58:21 »
I think the suggestion of a rear wheel bearing into the equation has gone away from the possible cause. I have had a similar issue which was wear in the ball joint on the wishbone 'wobbling' on uneven surfaces combined with wear in the anti roll bar drop link (stabiliser).
A wheel bearing noise tends to be a 'droning' which is consistent, only varying in intensity as the speed increases, or with the load on that particular wheel during cornering.
Easy enough to check too.

1544
Omega General Help / Re: Locking wheel nut problem
« on: 04 December 2017, 01:02:09 »

Is there a master LWNT for Vauxhalls? How is this problem overcome in the trade?

Most main dealers should have a master set of locking wheel nut keys. They use them when cars come in for service or tyres and the customer either hasn't left or the mechanics can't find the locking wheel nut key. It's usually a case of trying similar ones until they find the one that fits snugly. There is a letter stamped on the end of the key, which will identify it, and from this the correct one can be purchased if you haven't got the code.
If you intend to bin them (as I have), and can't get the car to the garage, I would take a photo of the pattern of the locking wheel nut, visit your friendly Vauxhall garage, and depending on how well you know your them, see if you can borrow the keys that are possibles. Take four ordinary bolts with you, and remove the bolts replacing them with the ordinary ones, before returning the master key.
It's better however if you can go in the car and do it on their forecourt, but if they know you, then they may help you out by lending you them, but it may depend on how much you've spend over the counter in the past!
I've done this before when I have bought cars without a locking wheel nut key, before finding out the hard way at the roadside with a flat tyre.......




1545
General Car Chat / Re: Strange Corrosion advisory on MOT
« on: 02 December 2017, 01:16:00 »
I sometimes wonder if MOT testers sometimes record advisories on older cars just to appease VOSA, when in fact there wasn't anything specifically amiss, but just so that it appears they have done a thorough test (even though they actually have).
I take a couple of classic Triumphs for their annual MOT and they always record an advisory as 'underside covered front to rear with underseal'.
They both have the original dealer applied underseal, which isn't particularly thick, and any 'dodgy' welding would be quite obvious. In truth, neither have ever been welded. Whether they think that regularly passing cars of this vintage with no advisories would raise an eyebrow within VOSA circles, I'm not sure.
I have previously had advisories commenting about panels that are covered, such as cills on the Omega, or full length underbody shields, such as on certain Audi's.
I think a lot of it is just 'arse covering' with older cars. Unless the corrosion is quite obvious, then I wouldn't worry about their comments unduly. I wouldn't think there are many Omegas out there without surface rust on the front and rear subframe areas, which some MOT testers may warrant an advisory.

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