196
General Discussion Area / Re: Word Association.
« on: 19 September 2023, 19:02:23 »
Excuse me
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201
General Discussion Area / Re: Russell Brand .
« on: 17 September 2023, 15:03:02 »
I never quite understood what the beautiful Katie Perry actually saw in him.....
203
Omega General Help / Re: Omega 3.2 Elite V6 (2002) Heater Bypass Valve symptons
« on: 17 September 2023, 08:44:39 »
Yes, I too apologise Gary for the responses. You had what I consider a helpful and reasonable response to your query, until no.3 soured the mix. I think you can get the gist of how the responses unfolded, and the underlying cause for them. It was unfortunate that it was on your topic, and that I felt the need to highlight (once again) that there is no room on a forum such as this for anything other than helpful, informative suggestions (suggestions - that's all they are!!) from which the OP can then hopefully tackle his chosen method of repair, rather having to wade through curt, abrupt, adamant and often condescending replies which do not encourage members to continue with the OOF.
We all enjoy our Omegas (most of the time!), and whatever use we make of them want to keep them running for as long as we can , which this forum will go a long way in assisting members to do so.
Incidentally, I wish a single part of the paragraph 4 in reply #20 was true.....pristine low mileage garage kept show piece Omegas
. For a minute, I thought there was a a hint of jealousy there, but surely not....
So, I personally apologise Gary again - not for my comments.because I felt it had to be said, but for the fact that it came out during your topic.
And I sincerely hope you solve the problem and get it repaired satisfactorily to enjoy the Omega!
That is it from me...finished.
We all enjoy our Omegas (most of the time!), and whatever use we make of them want to keep them running for as long as we can , which this forum will go a long way in assisting members to do so.
Incidentally, I wish a single part of the paragraph 4 in reply #20 was true.....pristine low mileage garage kept show piece Omegas
. For a minute, I thought there was a a hint of jealousy there, but surely not....So, I personally apologise Gary again - not for my comments.because I felt it had to be said, but for the fact that it came out during your topic.
And I sincerely hope you solve the problem and get it repaired satisfactorily to enjoy the Omega!
That is it from me...finished.
204
Omega General Help / Re: Omega 3.2 Elite V6 (2002) Heater Bypass Valve symptons
« on: 16 September 2023, 23:28:08 »
And I also think that because you do not own an Omega and have not done for many a year, your memory of what is removed to get the scuttle off is a little hazy, and therefore not entirely correct. You refer to the bottom trim being forced out of position or removed to access the scuttle trim clips ( I assume you actually mean the moulding here). The frame / retainer also doesn't have to be twisted away in any circumstances, to remove the 'lower trim' (moulding to give it its correct name), which in turn gives good access to the twist 'pins' to then remove the plastic scuttle panel. Why would you even consider removing the bottom frame? The moulding yes for easy access, and to prevent damage to it and the retainer / frame caused by twisting it upwards to access the twist pins / clips. Your reference to the windscreen components is a little misleading...
To remove the lower moulding (it's correct name), I simply get a pick tool, lubricate it with rubber grease, gently ease the tongue at one end out of the retainer/ frame or whatever you wish to call it, and then slide the pick tool along the length of the frame against the tongue of the moulding which doesn't put undue pressure on either the frame and tongue and also saves any distortion of the moulding. Helped of course with the moulding tongue having been previously lightly lubricated....
Works every time for me. But obviously your method has previously caused you issues and maybe damage to the frame and or moulding.
But this is just my point. Helpful suggestions...
Any way, I'm going to leave this whole subject at that now and give you time to reflect....
To remove the lower moulding (it's correct name), I simply get a pick tool, lubricate it with rubber grease, gently ease the tongue at one end out of the retainer/ frame or whatever you wish to call it, and then slide the pick tool along the length of the frame against the tongue of the moulding which doesn't put undue pressure on either the frame and tongue and also saves any distortion of the moulding. Helped of course with the moulding tongue having been previously lightly lubricated....
Works every time for me. But obviously your method has previously caused you issues and maybe damage to the frame and or moulding.
But this is just my point. Helpful suggestions...
Any way, I'm going to leave this whole subject at that now and give you time to reflect....
205
Omega General Help / Re: Omega 3.2 Elite V6 (2002) Heater Bypass Valve symptons
« on: 16 September 2023, 22:49:00 »
Can you not see it DG - having an opinion and therefore offering suggestions relative to the subject and your experience of carrying out the said repair or any fault finding is what owners would like to get in response to queries - not to have your views (whether right or wrong, but in your mind the ONLY method to carry out the repair because that is how you have tackled it) forced down their throat as the only way to approach the problem. Helpful suggestions put in a polite and not condescending manner go along way to commanding respect, rather than your attitude that quite frankly alienates members.
I may be out spoken with my thoughts about this, but I can say with my hand on my heart, I am certainly not on my own with these views about your attitude.
Incidentally, your reference regarding Police mechanics and windscreens is bit of a deflection I guess.....?
There is no definitive method about doing jobs - lowering the diff to change rear springs is one classic example - changed a good number over the years and never once lowered the diff to do the job. Just because I change them with a different method to that in the maintenance guide doesn't mean that that is only way, and the way others MUST do it, or the World will suddenly end...
Take a step back, and look at your comments on this and other topics, and maybe, just maybe, you will understand the reasoning that has brought this to the fore....
I may be out spoken with my thoughts about this, but I can say with my hand on my heart, I am certainly not on my own with these views about your attitude.
Incidentally, your reference regarding Police mechanics and windscreens is bit of a deflection I guess.....?
There is no definitive method about doing jobs - lowering the diff to change rear springs is one classic example - changed a good number over the years and never once lowered the diff to do the job. Just because I change them with a different method to that in the maintenance guide doesn't mean that that is only way, and the way others MUST do it, or the World will suddenly end...
Take a step back, and look at your comments on this and other topics, and maybe, just maybe, you will understand the reasoning that has brought this to the fore....
206
Omega General Help / Re: Omega 3.2 Elite V6 (2002) Heater Bypass Valve symptonsFirst things first
« on: 16 September 2023, 14:49:21 »First things first, your attack requires me to justify my experience. I have owned several Omegas for approximately 250,000 miles of personal time with them combined, and almost all of the work on them in my ownership was done by me. These cars included 3 ex plod 3.2s, 2x 2.6s, 2x 2.2s, a 2.0 16v and a 3.2 Elite. Two of the ex plod cars had interiors replaced, OU54AEW had three different interiors fitted over time and extensive wiring and two significant panel replacements, not to mention the ongoing servicing/preventative maintenance required to pass an MoT/Council inspection every six months with no advisories over the course of 170k or so on that car alone. Not to mention two windscreens, one of which require three call backs to actually fit correctly. So whilst you might not agree with my approach sometimes, you can at least do me the courtesy of actually having some hands on experience with the Omega.
Right, back to the scuttle...Three out of three plod cars had incorrectly fitted screens and trims. And Two of these I was the first owner out of service, and both were under five years old. The issue is that the trims actually set the height of the screen in the aperture, fit the trims afterwards and the screen will invariably end up in the wrong position in any/all three planes.
The scuttle trim clips require the bottom trim to either be forced out of position or removed. The frame the trim sits in doesn't take kindly from being twisted away if the trim has been glued in (a bodge if the frames are reused, fitted in the wrong order or aftermarket ones fitted) or simply stuck from the culmination of dirt and time, as the force applied distorts the wafer thin steel clips where the lower frame connects to the side frames meaning that it will potentially never sit right again or repeatedly slide away from the base of the screen allowing water and dirt in under the scuttle. At a glance it may still appear correct.
The trim can also be stretched/distorted if removed forcibly. You may well be perfect and never damage so much as a piece of double sided tape when you work on your cars, but for all its apparent simplicity, removing and replacing the scuttle is easy to get wrong especially with the passage of time.
For the purposes of an as yet undiagnosed coolant leak removing the plenum instead of the scuttle affords much better access to the common leak points plus the opportunity to clean the breathers through and inspect the coolant system components under the inlet bridge. Especially as, if the HBV proves not to be the source, then the plenum is coming off regardless.
Yes, you may have had numerous Omegas including Police spec models and worked on them gaining experience of their weak points and issues / rectification work from mechanics - including so called Police mechanics - working on them. Doesn't mean your opinion on these matters is right or the correct approach....it's just your opinion.
But you are not the only person to have had several Omegas and done galactic miles in them. Since 2004, I have owned 11 Omegas (ran out of fingers /thumbs to count - maybe the odd one or two more!), still own 3 Elites, do the majority of my own work on them etc etc
But just because you have owned several Omegas, and worked on them, does that mean that your way of doing aspects of repairs, or because repairs had issues through incompetent mechanics / fitters whatever, your observations/ methods are gospel, or the method that everyone MUST adhere to? You portray yourself as the oracle of the Omega, and owners must attempt repairs your way or woe betide.....
I've never known anything like it on any forum - the way you portray yourself suggesting nothing but your approach or way is acceptable, the abrupt responses you often give, and the dross you occasionally come out with, is quite frankly unbelievable. If it wasn't for my love of Omegas, I would have given up on this forum purely because of your attitude - it stinks.
Now, why don't you try to go back to giving helpful suggestions to Omega issues rather than forcing your often self opinionated and not always correct thoughts on other OOFers....
207
General Car Chat / Re: Heavy Oil Stain
« on: 16 September 2023, 09:24:35 »Cost will depend entirely on depth, area and type (density/composition/reinforcement). That said, if you're only talking a couple of square feet, it should be pretty diyable
F*ck me, you're a builder now as well....?
208
Omega General Help / Re: Omega 3.2 Elite V6 (2002) Heater Bypass Valve symptons
« on: 16 September 2023, 07:57:50 »You've clearly never owned an ex traffic car
So what's that got to do with the 'price of fish'?
Are you suggesting that repairs to Police Vehicles were done to a very poor standard by ham fisted bafoons who couldn't think for themselves and decide the best and most practical way to approach a repair job, causing unnecessary damage along the way? Sounds like that's your suggestion.....
And again (clearly) you are wrong, as I have owned an ex Police (NCA) Omega, and also another make a good few years ago that was ex Police....
You can't 'force' your methods of doing repairs based on your issues experienced owning an ex traffic car as the ONLY way to approach a repair - most Omegas owned by OOFers were in the private sector, so actual Police Vehicle ownership is quite irrelevant really in this instance....
209
Omega General Help / Re: Omega 3.2 Elite V6 (2002) Heater Bypass Valve symptons
« on: 15 September 2023, 23:29:28 »The HBV will almost certainly have been replaced... it's practically a service item.
HBV isn't the only leak source that presents at the back of the block. It could also be the oil cooler or thermostat housing as both drain to the rear.
Does the rate of the leak change with the temperature settings on the climate panel... ie worse on Lo and better on Hi or vice versaif yes, then it's almost certainly the HBV. If no, then plenum and intake off and pressure test it... any leak will be self evident.
Unless you can guarantee the original screen and/or genuine trim/frame then removing the scuttle will lead to issues. This is partly down to collected dirt in the frame if poorly fitted of pattern frames are used together with the age of the seal trim*.
The frame and trim, including the lower strip, are fitted to the screen BEFORE it is fitted to the car and the screen assembly is then fitted AFTER the scuttle. It isn't designed to have the lower trim removed and refitted.
The only three jobs on the Omega that require removal of the scuttle are 1. Wiper motor replacement. 2 Brake servo replacement. 3. To allow proper preparation during screen replacement and then it's refitted before the screen to ensure correct screen placement.
Removing the plenum is
*Actually a misnomer as it seals nothing.
We've been here before
, and I think we must agree to disagree. The screens are the originals on my current Omegas, and on my Perol Blue Elite, due to particular jobs that have needed doing, I have removed the lower moulding to remove the scuttle a good few times with no detrement. Unless the person removing it is ham-fisted, then it it can be removed and replaced with care with no issues. I don't where you have got the notion that it isn't designed to be removed in that manner, or is it that you have damaged your retainer in the past removing the lower moulding? I certainly haven't, and I don't agree with your comments. There's more than one way to skin a cat...But others are free to tackle it any way they see most appropriate.
210
General Discussion Area / Re: Any good?....or Could I do better for the money?
« on: 15 September 2023, 22:27:41 »
I also have their Performance impact wrench and with 1956 nm of 'nut busting' torque is up with the torque of the top Milwaukee wrenches, which only have a limited extended warranty. The quality is very good, and cheaper than Milwaukee. Come in at around £120- £130 ish. Worth considering.
That should read 1856 nm of nut releasing torque with their black cordless Performance Impact wrenches (slip of the digit!). If you think the above drill is powerful, then this impact wrench is at another level again. I've tried several.impact wrenches over the years, and anything that you have to use a breaker bar on they generally won't even look at, but this....superb. Not trying to 'sell' them at all, but they have brought cordless tools for the DIYer to a different level....