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[Temetsy]

So, while disassemblimg my car (swapping 95' engine to the 98' mini-facelift mig's x25xe) i noticed that the ECUs had different part numbers and also the coil is different in my old engine. Is the ECU number just because the newer car was originally AT and had the chip-transponder immobilizer? Can I fit the new engine to my car with reasonable effort or do I just put it back together? I'm going to use the old engine's loom and ECU and maybe coil..

[05omegav6]

You need to use the engine wiring applicable to the body shell you're fitting it to

[Temetsy]

Yes I'm using my car's wiring, are the coils interchangeable if the plug type is not taken into acount and if needed can i just swap the connectors and it will work? And the ECU part number is not important as long as the software is the same? Getting a tad panicked out here since this bad boy should be up and running tomorrow

[05omegav6]

To be clear...

Use ALL the electrical bits from your old engine on the new one

[Temetsy]

Now even I got it, huge thank you !

[05omegav6]

If the original box was auto and the new one is manual, then you'll need to tweak the wiring for the reversing light switch. This is done by fitting the plug from the manual loom onto the relevant wire from the selector switch plug
The rest of the gearbox loom can be tied up above the gearbox

[Temetsy]

The organ donor car was AT->MT swapped so it had the auto box, my car is manual and the concern i had was just that can my car's box guide the new engine since it had slight differences but i guess everything's gonna be alright and if not... then I'll be back

[05omegav6]

I have fitted an auto engine loom to my manual and the only change was the reverse light switch wiring rest of gearbox wiring not used

[Temetsy]

Okay so stuck with the 2-4-6 (bank2?) knock sensor. Do i have to remove PAS pump, ACC and then the mounting piece from the block to get than damned sensor to come out?

[Temetsy]

Allright, new engine/tranny is now sitting nicely in the bay and as I was topping up the coolant and getting ready to fire the engine I heard some dripping under the car and yes, coolant was running down both sides of gb. I may have tracked the leak down to the pipe that goes into the heat exchanger coolant pool (the metal pipe that goes by the 1-3-5 bank and curves to the back of the block). Well I ignored that for a sec and tried to fire the thing. Starter spun nicely but not even a promise of firing up! I read the fault codes and got 19 and 132. 19 is propably because the engine was not running but 132.. Can an incorrect signal from EGR prevent the engine to start? Damn this is getting frustrating.. Someone heeeelp

[RobG]

Allright, new engine/tranny is now sitting nicely in the bay and as I was topping up the coolant and getting ready to fire the engine I heard some dripping under the car and yes, coolant was running down both sides of gb. I may have tracked the leak down to the pipe that goes into the heat exchanger coolant pool (the metal pipe that goes by the 1-3-5 bank and curves to the back of the block). Well I ignored that for a sec and tried to fire the thing. Starter spun nicely but not even a promise of firing up! I read the fault codes and got 19 and 132. 19 is propably because the engine was not running but 132.. Can an incorrect signal from EGR prevent the engine to start? Damn this is getting frustrating.. Someone heeeelp

Nope. 19 is crank sensor

[Temetsy]

Yes but what I meant was that doesn't it always give crank sensor code when you do paperclip test without engine running?

[RobG]

Yes but what I meant was that doesn't it always give crank sensor code when you do paperclip test without engine running?

Nope. 19 is dodgy crank sensor that`s why it won`t fire

[Temetsy]

Oh that explains a lot. So does the fact that the plug was loose too.. Well now to the coolant leak next

[Marks DTM Calib]

Yes I'm using my car's wiring, are the coils interchangeable if the plug type is not taken into acount and if needed can i just swap the connectors and it will work? And the ECU part number is not important as long as the software is the same? Getting a tad panicked out here since this bad boy should be up and running tomorrow

Coils can be swapped but you may need to change the connector to fit.

[Temetsy]

Yeah I've swapped the old engines coil pack to new engine and egr was slightly different so the engine is now okay, though had a major coolant leak at the back of the engine. (from the metal coolant pipe that goes to the back of the engine) Now there is no coolant loss and system holds pressure pretty well. But now when everything else seems to be going well and I was attaching the prop shaft to GB I noticed that the god damned, m****rfookin' flange of the rubber joint between GB and propshaft was smaller that prop shaft's! So question is: Does my gearbox have smaller flange or are those rubber "plates" interchangeable from small to big to fit to the prop shaft flange?

[05omegav6]

The front half of the propshaft is different lengths for different engines and gear boxes...

iirc, both engines are 2.5 v6? one auto, one manual... you need the front half of the prop shaft to match the gearbox should simply pull out of rear half... be careful when refitting that the master spline is in the right place though, as it's possible to refit in the wrong position

[Temetsy]

Yes auto ptop shaft is 30cm shorter than manual's. But the flange is what I'm wondering about.. If it's different I must buy a new gearbox. Byt yay first startup yesterdaynd runs like new  

[05omegav6]

Yes auto ptop shaft is 30cm shorter than manual's. But the flange is what I'm wondering about.. If it's different I must buy a new gearbox. Byt yay first startup yesterdaynd runs like new

The flange on the gearbox and on the propshaft should match if they came off the same car

[Temetsy]

Yes auto ptop shaft is 30cm shorter than manual's. But the flange is what I'm wondering about.. If it's different I must buy a new gearbox. Byt yay first startup yesterdaynd runs like new

The flange on the gearbox and on the propshaft should match if they came off the same car

I know but the organ donor car had at->mt conversion made and someone seem to have used a small flanged r25-r28 and smallflange shaft to this conversion.. Damn you people

[05omegav6]

Yes auto ptop shaft is 30cm shorter than manual's. But the flange is what I'm wondering about.. If it's different I must buy a new gearbox. Byt yay first startup yesterdaynd runs like new

The flange on the gearbox and on the propshaft should match if they came off the same car

I know but the organ donor car had at->mt conversion made and someone seem to have used a small flanged r25-r28 and smallflange shaft to this conversion.. Damn you people

at least it runs well... so that's the tricky bit done

[Temetsy]

Yeah smiled like a child on the christmas when heard the six pot roar   Neighbours might have felt slightly different since only silencers were those mighty manifolds  But can I fit the small propshaft front stump to the bigger rear part? And does a Carlton one fit since i have 2.0 Carlton prop shaft for mt? 

[05omegav6]

You've lost me I'm afraid



Surely you have the gearbox and propshaft from a/the manual car, and also the same from an auto?

So you should have the correct flange on the correct propshaft for the gearbox fitted

[Temetsy]

Lost myself too Yeah the engine/gb both came from a 2,5 v6 miggy, mine 95' and donor 98'. I'm really starting to think that the b****rd that swapped the car to MT got lazy looking for a real v6 GB and took the whole drivetrain from a 4pot.. And yes, both props are from MT omega, only trouble here now is just the fact that those flanges aren't the same size. If someone has acces to smaller and bigger rubber joint of omega's propshaft I'd be happy to receive some measures, especially that are those interchangeable (diff/gb holes same but prop shaft holes different).

[05omegav6]

Given your location, might be easier to measure the pcd of the propshaft flange and find a gearbox flange to match

Did you buy the gearbox as part of a whole car or as part of a diy conversion kit? If part of a whole, working car then you shouldn't be having an issue

[Temetsy]

a whole running and working silver 2,5 v6 cdx sedan omega was where i took the engine/gb set. How does the flange come out of the back of the gb?

[05omegav6]

a whole running and working silver 2,5 v6 cdx sedan omega was where i took the engine/gb set. How does the flange come out of the back of the gb?

Then all you need is the front half of the propshaft from that car...

[Temetsy]

I'd have done that by now if I still had the car/prop   Well I'll pick my carlton prop front stump and try to fit that and if it's a no-go then just buy a new front half..

[05omegav6]

I'd have done that by now if I still had the car/prop   Well I'll pick my carlton prop front stump and try to fit that and if it's a no-go then just buy a new front half..

Note to self... always read ALL the instructions

If you know where that car is now, go and get it

[Temetsy]

I'd have done that by now if I still had the car/prop   Well I'll pick my carlton prop front stump and try to fit that and if it's a no-go then just buy a new front half..

Note to self... always read ALL the instructions

If you know where that car is now, go and get it

Yeah should have doubl.. tripl.. quadruple checked everything but too late for that now   And I have no idea where that rusty lump is now so..

[Temetsy]

Well, now the propshaft issue is solved by buying a four pot front stump tomorrow. Carlton one did fit to the rear part well but was about 3" too short.. Tried to bleed the clutch too but didn't work in traditional way nor reverse bleeding through brake bleed niple due to leaking threads   But tomorrow this baby may be back up and ru(st)ning !

[05omegav6]

Ezy bleed is the easiest way to bleed the clutch they can be quite stubborn...

Nearly there though

[Temetsy]

Proo shaft has been fitted and clutch bled through front brake bleed nipple. First miles have bee driven and the car runs very rough and under heavier throttle i get eml.. Codes 13, 19, 129 and 132. I'll clear the codes and see if they appear again. Sounds like it misfires/chokes on too rich mixture crank sensor syptoms? Starts with no effort tho so I'm just overwhelmed once more..

[Temetsy]

Now I've removed plugs and 1-3-5 plugs were damn oily and 2-4-6 had some too.. Measured the resistance of crankPS and the fitted one gave 7,5ohm and the one on the spare engine gave 4,2 between same pins, is it failing or can you even measure if it's intact by using resistance?

[Temetsy]

Fitted new gaskets to intake manifold, plenum and cam covers, replaced plugs and leads and fixed one air leak. Still powerless and rough though no eml this time. Still thinking of crank sensor fault. Can incorrectly torqued knock sensors cause this without giving any codes? Leak between bank1 exhaust manifold and DP so runs rich, can this cause such severe power loss? Man I want to drive my miggy again!

[Temetsy]

More of my monolog; Knock sensors now in right moment and does run a lot more even (still rough and powerless, especially with lower revs) Gonna patch up the exhaust on weekend and see if that solves the issue. Bank1 running rich just blow my cat so that's more job for me again thinking of emissions passing..

[Temetsy]

Exhaust is intact now, still running rich and feeling really powerless so next job is trying to find a damn intake leak. Running much more even but does not start at first try and when it starts, it runs really rough and still feels like misfiring. Maybe a fooked CSP sens or coil pack, nice and cheap again. Does motronic give fault code if misfiring?