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Topics - MCU

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1
Omega General Help / timning belt
« on: 21 March 2020, 20:19:39 »
I :-[ I have been fiddling with my 2.2l 16v with broken clutch. But there was a LOT of other issues. Namely a missfire or hesitation upon throttle. What i have done so far. Replaced clutch (problem solved. Also removed and welded up the cat (holes) ,Cleaning out the rocker cover+gaskets, crankcase breather pipe (totally plugged) cleaned out the carburettor, The hole was plugged to idle controll. Still have the hesitation. Also waterpump, and plugs were renewed, The same problem is still there, but it started to run better today and ran hotter. There was a hole in the purge hose. But noone of my many measures has been able to cure the problem entirely. Before removing the old timing belt, i checked the timing. It was slighty off. I did change everything. Tensioner and idler pulleys. But i have the small timing error again. It is not possible to have it lined up 100% spot on.... Now a thought that no one has discussed (or i have not found a discussion about this) The godamned waterpump can be rotated. On all other cars i have worked on this is fixed and one cannot mount it incorrectly...But on the omega 2,2 16v and probably all 16v engines it can be rotated.. and that would affect the length from crankshaft pulley to the camshaftpulleys. I did mark the wp before replacing and fitted it the same way i got the car. But since i cannot align timing perfectly, would that not be the probable error??? But no one has ever mentioned this. The wp:s moutning will affect timing!!! so if i now loosen the belt again and move it one notch, and loosen the wp rotating it clockwise, i should be able to correct the small error ? The are no error codes now. But there were a few i read with "My Naff Code Reader" and software. It was the camshaft sensor and a lot of other stuff, probably related to prevois owner forgetting to fit all the connectors. But the real issue should be the timing being slitghly off, possible involving the wp not being in the place it should ?. Next question, How sensitive it the timing error? If the top cambelt pulleys are spot on the crancshaft notch is 5mm Counter clockwise from the pointer.  But for each thing i did the issues became less and less a problem. Maybe a few hours of burning out shit from all the holes and plugged holes, will have it back on treack. I have replaced all one can replace it fees like. I just want someinput on the slight timing error, from a knowlegeadble person. It cannot be solved only with the tensioner. (worn and new setting).

2
Pround owner of of 3 omegas. Anyway bought this beater with a wrecked clutch, dicovered after removing gearbox. It also had missfire and vibrations, and all of sorts of error codes including lamda sensor and so on. When the cat unit was removed, i had it examined and the flexjoint had been replaced and welded by an amateur. I'm an amateur also but can produce a decent and pitfree weld if i want to. These welds were so poor that one could se inside the pipe... the pits were sealed with exhaust cement, making it a tad more difficult to reweld the cats.
I had ro regrind the entire unit and weld with flux wire to have a good and tight weld. Very thin walls made in a pain in the butt, frankly.. But after an hour or two it is solid, and no leaks. I heard that the cats can be blocked, if there is a missfire due to plugged leads from crankcase and or oil on the plugs (which it was) But also the imbalance from the broken clutch, seemed to have influence on my motors shitty running... I did buy a cheap endoscope, and had a look. T he 2 cats seem new almost. No blockage or damage to the matrixes, as i see it. Buying an endoscope for 6 usb was a good investment to have a look inside ?     https://1drv.ms/a/s!ArBj6H9FNrozoACqpeqBOmDDdLKf

3
I Have a 1999/11 2.2l 16v omega b. The vibrations came from a broken pressureplate, where the rivets broke and the heavy plate became dislogdged and caused the car to vibrate. I bought the car like that cheaply.. There was also strage noises coming from the cluth when egaged. This is because the tabs will swing out and grind against the bell housing. So if your car is doing the jiggy and there is a noise .. Stop driving it, and replace the clutch before the clutch tears your car to pieces... Replacing both gearbox and clutch is stupid. I did drive my car home for 250 km and have had it started many times when replacing cambelt and so on. But i should have startedd with the clutch of course if i had knows the cause of the problem, to begin with.
Hence this post to let other Omega heads know of the garbage original clutch issue. On top of this i also had blocked crank case ventilation cuasing pressusre and oil leaks adding on with missfiring and hiding the real issue https://1drv.ms/a/s!ArBj6H9FNrozn2vPX9ecCIrc4iKF

4
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / reading eeprom on omega96TD
« on: 08 October 2019, 21:27:16 »
 :o I got my TL866cs programmer out. i can read my 97 2.5td Omega with box or chip 1 037 355 974  0281 355 974. It will be read and detected as st m27c256 DIP28.
then i figured it would work to do the same with the Omega96, box 2537355449 028100121, but i cant even find it, does not respond or exist. It should be the same type of chip. Anyone who knows ?i did find software in a database and i can burn the original software to a st m27c256..

5
 ??? Bought this car recently for 3000 SEK which is 250 GBP. What i Know Sofar... The clutch is gone and there is audible noise when in gear. Like stuff rubbing on the flywheel. The timing belt is old and will be swapped. The issue is that the car is vibrating on higher rpm and looses power the more throttle i give it. It sound like one cylinder is not running properly. I realize that this could be a number of issues. i did a readout via chinese v=clone "My Naff Code Reader" and i got a number of error codes wich are probably a result of previous owner foregetting t to plug all the wires when trying to fire the engine. After deleting error one one fault code reappears. i did swap out the ingintion coil module but the problems remain. LIve data suggest that the trottle body works as both pedal and thottle show no sticking, just a linear respons w7o jumping or loosing signal. all sparkplugs look normal. the camsahft sensor which was suspected the culprit does not reappear when i update the errorlog. it runs normal on idle but upon throttle above 30 percent it start to stutter and sound like it runs on 3 cylinders. The reason for my asking is whether to start swapping clucth and cambelt and pretty much every item that  are worn out or just get the other diesel omega up and running with less work. could the camshaft sensor be the underlying problem or is it a blown head gasket. All logic says no since plugs look normal. i see no  deviation on injector, or coils either. I dont want to spend days i the garage if i have bigger issues whith the motor. here is the error log before deleting it
Total number of fault codes: 7

P1650 - Service Vehicle Soon Light Voltage Low
 (04) - Present

P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit No Signal
 (04) - Not present

P0500 - Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit Incorrect Signal
 (08) - Not present

P0170 - Rich Exhaust
 (01) - Not present

P0136 - O2 Sensor 2 Open Circuit
 (04) - Not present

P1612 - Immobiliser No Or Wrong Signal
 (00) - Not present

P1613 - Immobiliser No Or Wrong Signal
 (00) - Not present


the only error remaining is
P1650 - Service Vehicle Soon Light Voltage Low
 (04) - Present

6
Newbie Welcome Area / i really love Omegas
« on: 27 September 2019, 18:27:17 »
I'm a Swede. I have owned 5 and currently have 3 left. 1 1996 2.5td manual. 1 2.5td automatic with upgraded ar35 gearbox wich has 170hp right now and will have 220bhp minimum when i'm finished. I am a Mechanical engineer per education but never worked as one... I work as a mechanic on a golf club 50% as i have a degenerative disease called Hashimotos disease. I recently bought a 2.2l 16v year 2000 omega Caravan, to have as a normal transport vehicle minus the diesel taxes we have in sweden. The 2.5 td kicks the petrols engines ass i think... but as the say it is a matter of opinion. But my old 2.5 v6 had nothing against the 2.5 td chipped and ar35 modified. The car stereo unit left it's hole, and had to be searched for in the 2.5td, when the mv6 vas fun after 3700 rpm....A really laim car in comparison. The other 2.5 td does burnouts in the rain w/o chip. but egr is blocked. Still no chipping of that car... but a brand new chip is in my possession, and will be equipped as soon as i make sure the intercooler is ok. It was owned by a farmer who decided to go offroad, and fill oil cooler and intercoolers with mud. It has the smaller turbo which builds boost at lower rpm, but it makes hotter  air... So until sorted, no chip will be installed. It runs a bit hot right now even. The gas Omega will remain original as a to b vehicle with maybe an eco chip or so. The 2.2l Also has the Bose system which is totally ok by me.I used to compete in Sasca.
 I am an audio freak as well.
 Why would i want to hang in this site? You are far superior to the Swedish sites and the Swedish sites have no knowledge about Omegas. And if the have they tell no one. I found out more on the old Omega site in 1 hour, than 20 hours on the Swedish site. I guess the English people are more outward going and knowledgeable than the average Swedish omega owner. I work as a mechanic in a golf club and i really like the engineering of the Omegas. But good omega owner seem to be scarce in Sweden?

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